The VAULT

wines

The 1961 Barolo from Cantina Mascarello (magnum) was masculine, powerful and impressively rich for a wine of this vintage, while the 1958 Barolo (magnum) fared less well. The 1958 can be a legendary wine, but on this night the wine was exceedingly evolved.Vinous Media | 95 VMIt had been nearly a decade since I last tasted a bottle of the 1961 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo and the wine has seemingly not been touched by time in the interim. Perhaps this most recent bottle was just in even better condition than the previous bottles I have enjoyed, but my projected window of drinkability for this wine back in the article on Bartolo in the fall of 2007 now seems rather ridiculously conservative. The utterly brilliant bouquet shows plenty of Cannubi character in its complex blend of red and black cherries, woodsmoke, gamebirds, gentle tariness, tobacco ash, spiced meats, coffee and a topnote of fresh oregano. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very pure, with a sappy core of fruit, stunning soil inflection, melting tannins, bright acids and stunning length and grip on the very complex and refined finish. Clearly, the last few bottles of this wine that I tasted were a touch more advanced, and this wine still has many, many years of life still ahead of it. A beautiful bottle of Barolo. (Drink between 2011 - 2025)John Gilman | 94 JG

A comparison of two 1961s from Giacomo Conterno is next. Conterno’s 1961 Barolo Riserva Speciale Monfortino is, not surprisingly, deeper and more intense in all of its dimensions. Iron, smoke, graphite, leather and sweet tobacco wrap around a core of dark fruit in a Barolo that packs a serious punch, especially considering its age. This is a superb bottle.Vinous Media | 95 VMThe 1961 Barolo Riserva Monfortino was especially beautiful and fresh. It offered a similar flavor profile as the 1958 with greater harmony and balance, if not quite as much sheer power.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

Full-bodied, unctuous and powerful in the glass, the 1985 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano is a total turn on. Exotic spice, smoke, tobacco, dried rose petal, leather and licorice build into a heady crescendo of aromas, flavors and textures. Although the 1985 is currently at a glorious peak of expression, I don’t expect it will improve much from here. Readers lucky enough to have had the 1985 know just how magical it is. Any remaining bottles are best enjoyed over the next decade or so.Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 1985 Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva’s medium ruby/garnet color displays considerable amber at the edge. The intoxicating perfume of Chinese black tea, smoke, tobacco, cherries, and exotic spices jumps from the glass. The wine is full-bodied, gorgeously-nuanced, and multidimensional, with considerable glycerin and layers of flavor. It unfolds fabulously in the mouth, exhibiting remarkable intensity and complexity. The 1985 has just reached full maturity, where it should remain for another decade.Robert Parker | 96 RPGiven how many bottles of the 1982 Santa Stefano Red Label I have drunk over the years, it is surprising that I have seldom had the pleasure to drink the superb 1985 version, and it is more than fifteen years since I last crossed paths with this wine. It is a fine, fine wine, but not one of the legends of the decade of the 1980s from Signor Giacosa. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a nicely blossomed blend of red and black cherries, bonfire, a touch of road tar, lovely soil tones, oregano and a topnote of fresh bay leaf. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, complex and still sporting a bit of backend tannin, with fine focus and grip, a good, solid core and a long, well-balanced finish. This is a very good bottle that misses the extra dimension of the 1982 and 1989 versions. (Drink between 2017 - 2040)John Gilman | 93 JG

The second night of this vertical gets started in grand style. Bruno Giacosa’s 1990 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano plays true to type. Powerful in the glass, with the soft contours and glycerin richness of a warm vintage, the 1990 possesses superb pedigree from the very first taste. Heady, intense and flamboyant, the 1990 is peaking today. It will hold for another decade or more, but I don’t see much upside to be gained from further cellaring.Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 1990 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano reveals gorgeous inner perfume in a soft, sensual style. Warm, open and generous, the wine shows superb balance, with a purity of fruit that powers through to the long, round finish. I have a slight preference for the 1989 here, but would be thrilled to own more of the 1990. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025.Bruno Giacosa’s wines are well represented in my personal cellar, which was the source for the vast majority of these bottles. I have had the good fortune to taste all of Giacosa’s 1989s and 1990s from multiple sources over the last year, and therefore can report that these notes are representative of what readers can expect from well-stored bottles. I consider 1989 and 1990 – along with 1978, 1982, 1996, 2001, 2004 and 2007 – to be among Giacosa’s finest vintages. The bevy of Red Label Riservas in this article says it all. In 1989 and 1990 Giacosa produced an immense number of legendary wines. In fact, he is one of the very few producers who did exceptionally well in both years. In general the 1989s are a touch more layered and nuanced, while the 1990s are impressive for their massive concentration. If forced to state a preference, I would say 1990 gets the nod for its consistency from top to bottom, even if few of those wines reach the sublime heights of the very finest 1989s. Still, these are relatively small distinctions at this high level. Readers who have the opportunity to taste any of these wines should not think twice. By the late 1980s Giacosa had begun to move towards an enlightened traditional style with the introduction of the French oak casks he now uses exclusively. Fermentations and barrel aging, however, remained very much within the framework of traditional winemaking, resulting in a combination that was electric. Readers will note that many of Giacosa’s Red Label Riservas during this time were made in small lots (such as the 1990 Asili and 1989 Collina Rionda), and that for practical purposes those wines were aged in medium-size casks rather than large casks.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RP(Barbaresco “Santo Stefano di Neive” Riserva- Bruno Giacosa) The 1990 Santo Stefano Riserva has continued to cruise along as if time will never touch it, and in the interim of two years since I wrote up my historical piece on Bruno Giacosa and last tasted the wine, it seems even younger than it did at that time (though it may well just be a reflection of this particularly youthful bottle). The bouquet remains, deep, pure and youthful, as it offers up scents of red cherries, woodsmoke, gamebirds, road tar, herbs, a great base of soil and a developing topnote of orange zest. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and complex, with fine mid-palate depth, ripe tannins and excellent length and grip on the finish. This still needs a few years more of cellaring before it really starts to hit on all cylinders. (Drink between 2014-2050)John Gilman | 93+ JG

(Barbaresco “Asili di Barbaresco” Riserva- Bruno Giacosa) I would never dream of opening one of my bottles of 1996 Asili Riserva from Bruno Giacosa right now, as the wine is still a good decade or two away from really blossoming, but when a friend generously served one, I was very, very happy to check in on the wine and see how it is progressing! The bouquet has started to stir nicely and now offers up a pure and complex blend of cherries, licorice, road tar, a gorgeous base of Asili’s inimitable terroir, red curry, a touch of fennel seed and a gentle topnote of fresh oregano. On the palate the wine is very deep, full-bodied and tangy, with unmistakable profundity in its future. The core here is bottomless, the tannins are ripe and seamlessly integrated, and the focus and grip on the very, very long, perfectly balanced finish are haunting. This has been a legend in the making since it was released, and though it is still at least a dozen years away from really starting to drink with a bit of generosity, its inherent beauty is already very easy to read. Just be patient, as it will probably be a perfect wine when it is truly ready to drink! (Drink between 2030-2100).John Gilman | 98 JGThe utterly perfect, dense ruby/purple-colored 1996 Barbaresco Asili (Red Label Riserva) is a heroic offering brilliantly displaying both power and elegance. The bouquet develops incrementally, offering up aromas of black raspberries, cherries, cigar box, licorice, and leather. The wine impresses with its nuances as well as its extraordinarily rich, dense mid-palate, and a finish that lasts nearly a minute. There is huge tannin, but equally massive concentration, extract, and overall harmony. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2025.Robert Parker | 98 RPGiacosa’s 1996 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is a total stunner. Fresh, perfumed and inviting, the 1996 is a real treat to taste and drink at this adolescent stage in its life. The tannins have now softened, releasing an extraordinary amount of Nebbiolo fireworks that captivate all the senses. The 1996 Asili is still as memorable as it was the first time I tasted it. My only regret is not owning more than a handful of bottles. What a wine!.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGLots of raspberry, mushroom and black cherry, with a hint of vanilla. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a long, fruity finish. Still a little reserved, but shows lovely fruit. A gorgeous wine. Goes on and on.--1996 Piedmont retrospective. Best after 2008. 1,190 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The opaque ruby/purple-colored 1996 Barolo Cannubi is a powerfully built, uncompromising wine with huge extract, brawny earthy, cherry, licorice, and tobacco flavors, and high levels of tannin. It is a traditionally made Barolo that requires a decade of cellaring. Everything is present for future brilliance, but patience will be essential. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025.Robert Parker | 91-94 RPBig and powerful, with lots of fruit and a minty, woody character. Starting to come around now. Full-bodied, silky and excellent.--1996 Piedmont retrospective. Best after 2008. 460 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

A virtually perfect effort is the 1997 Sperss (30,000 bottles), which represents the essence of truffles, earth, and black cherries in its striking aromatics and multidimensional, opulent, full-bodied palate. The acidity seems low because of the huge glycerin levels and prodigious concentration of fruit, but I suspect it is normal in the scheme of oenological measurement. This profound wine requires 3-4 years of cellaring, and should age well for 30-35 years.A genius for sure, Angelo Gaja can not be faulted for what he puts in the bottle. This work of art is worth every cent it will fetch.Robert Parker | 99 RPAdmittedly, Gaja’s 1997 Sperss doesn’t quite hit the high notes it so often does. More often than not, the 1997 has been pretty much open for business, but this bottle is more reticent than other recent examples.Vinous Media | 97 VMDark ruby. Loads of blackberry, vanilla and milk chocolate on the nose. Turns to licorice and flowers. Full-bodied, with a subtle tannin structure and fresh and focused fruit. Balanced and pretty wine. Just starting to open.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Best from 2008 through 2017. 2,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 1997 Le Vigne is edged by the 1997 Barolo Cannubi Boschis that follows. Ample and incredibly inviting, the 1997 Cannubi Boschis is a wine of total sensuality. An exotic mélange of dark cherry, plum, leather and spice melds into the super-expressive finish. All of a sudden the conversation stops at the dinner table. That is what great wines can do.Vinous Media | 98 VMThe prodigious 1997 Barolo Cannubi Boschis possesses a dark saturated garnet color. The sweet nose of black fruits, minerals, scorched earth, smoke, dried herbs, and wet stones is stunning. Amazingly concentrated, with tremendous unctuousity yet superb delineation, this large-scaled as well as elegant Barolo possesses fabulous extract as well as a multidimensional mid-palate and finish. It is an amazing effort! Anticipated maturity: 2003-2020.Robert Parker | 96 RPMedium ruby red color. Very opulent aromas of plum, roses and spice. Full-bodied, with exotic fruit flavors and layers of silky tannins. Amazing fruit. Breathtaking. Hard not to drink now. Even better than I remember.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Best after 2010. 1,080 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

The 1998 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a monumental effort. A deep dark red, it opens with a huge nose of licorice, roses and cocoa, then flows onto the palate with masses of sweet, concentrated dark fruit that go on forever. Notes of mineral and leather gradually develop in the glass, adding further complexity as this great wine begins to reveal its expansive and profound personality. The 1998 is unusually open right now. As was the case with the 1997 at this stage, it should offer a brief drinking window over the next 6 months or so before shutting down for what is likely to be an extended period prior to awakening in the glorious prime of its life. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 1998 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a monumental effort. A deep dark red, it opens with a huge nose of licorice, roses and cocoa, then flows onto the palate with masses of sweet concentrated dark fruit that go on forever. Notes of mineral and leather gradually develop in the glass, adding further complexity as this great wine begins to reveal its expansive and profound personality. The 1998 is unusually open right now. As was the case with the 1997 at this stage, it should offer a brief drinking window over the next 6 months or so before shutting down for what is likely to be an extended period prior to awakening in the glorious prime of its life.Vinous Media | 97 VMDecadent and ripe, with wonderfully seductive aromas of white truffle, plum and leather. Full-bodied, with supersoft tannins and amazing fruit and Christmas cake character. All in finesse and beauty. All in place.Wine Spectator | 94 WS(Barolo “Monfortino” Riserva Speciale - Giacomo Conterno) The 1998 Monfortino is a superb bottle in the making, which comes as no surprise as any time the Conternos decide to put a Monfortino label on a new release, it is a guarantee of quality. The 1998 offers up a very deep and typically black fruity nose of black cherries, dark berries, licorice, camphor, road tar, woodsmoke and a fine base of soil. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and laser-like in its focus, with a rock solid core of fruit, firm, well-integrated tannins, and outstanding length and grip on the very youthful and tangy finish. This will need every bit of twelve or fifteen years of bottle age to begin to blossom, and should prove to be an especially long-lived vintage of Monfortino. (Drink between 2020-2075).John Gilman | 94 JG

Conterno’s 2001 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a towering, gigantic wine. Layers of sweet perfumed fruit flow across the palate in this gracious, refined yet powerful Monfortino. Hints of sweet red berries, roses, licorice and spices wrap around the deeply resonant finish. This is another wine that begs for patience. Today it is an infant. Anticipated maturity: 2021-2041.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2001 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a wine that appears to be going through an adolescent, unsettled phase. Several recent bottles have been quite stubborn, but this magnum is a bit better. Elegant and silky in feel, the 2001 gives the impression that it will mature earlier than some of the surrounding vintages. I know that will surprises more than a few Vinous readers – it surprises me too – but that’s just the way things look right now.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 2001 Monfortino will be a magical wine, but it is very, very young today and still very shut down and in need of several more years of cellaring before it is even open enough for proper inspection. What struck me most poignantly about this vintage of Monfortino is how pure and red fruity it is out of the blocks, which is fairly rare for this normally quite black fruity interpretation of Barolo greatness. The bouquet is deep, hauntingly pure and transparent, as it soars from the glass in a very primary mélange of red cherries, orange zest, woodsmoke, herbs, coffee, a great base of soil and plenty of roses in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, very pure and absolutely rock solid at the core, with brisk acids, ripe, well-integrated and substantial tannins, brilliant focus and balance and stunning length and grip on the very young, refined finish. A great Monfortino in the works. (Drink between 2020 - 2075)John Gilman | 96+ JGOffers sweet plum and sultana aromas, with hints of citrus fruit on the nose. Full-bodied, with soft, sweet tannins and cedar, cappuccino and sweet fruit flavors. Long and gorgeous. Hard not to drink now. Best after 2012. 855 cases made, 170 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

Loads of blackberry, cherry and dark licorice character. Full-bodied and velvety, with chewy tannins and a long finish. Pretty. Loads of depth and style. Gorgeous. Sandrone makes the best Cannubi. Almost as great as the 2000. Best after 2008. 840 cases made, 215 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe 2001 Barolo Cannubi Boschis is in a beautiful place right now. The aromas are starting to show the early signs of maturity, but there is plenty of fruit and depth in the glass. Sweet, layered and impeccable, the 2001 turns silky and delicate as its sits in the glass. Today my sense is that the 2001 won’t be one of the more long-lived vintages. Hints of licorice, dried flowers and new leather are woven into the rich, textured, fabric. This is a great showing for the Cannubi Boschis. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2001 Barolo Cannubi Boschis is in a beautiful place right now. The aromas are starting to show the early signs of maturity, but there is plenty of fruit and depth in the glass. Sweet, layered and impeccable, the 2001 turns silky and delicate as its sits in the glass. Today my sense is that the 2001 won't be one of the more long-lived vintages. Hints of licorice, dried flowers and new leather are woven into the rich, textured, fabric. This is a great showing for the Cannubi Boschis.Vinous Media | 95 VM

The 2004 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is drop-dead gorgeous. I have tasted the wine multiple times from barrel and three times from bottle and never been anything less than blown away. The 2004 is a subtle, layered Monfortino that captures the sheer elegance and finesse of this great vintage. It is sweet, perfumed, silky and utterly mind-blowing. From barrel it has always been a 100 point wine, but it has just been bottled and naturally a bit closed in on itself. Still, with some time in the glass its silky, perfumed fruit and dazzling class come to life. The 2004 is remarkably harmonious for such a young wine. Readers will have much fun debating which is the greatest Monfortino of recent years. Could it be the 1996, 1999 or 2002 for their huge structure and classicism? Or, is it the 1997 for its opulence? What if the dark horse 1998 and 2000 steal the show? Personally, I adore the 2001 and 2004 for their completeness, but the 2004 is the sexiest of them all. Sadly, 2004 is also the year Giovanni Conterno passed away, but one can’t escape the feeling his spirit lives in this wine. Kudos to Roberto Conterno and his team for this magnificent, thrilling Barolo. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2044.The drive from Barolo to Monforte was a little different this year. Peering across the valley over the hillside where the Conterno winery sits, the observant eye will notice a number of large barrels outside the main building. Roberto Conterno had no choice but to replace a number of his casks this year as the staves had begun to bend from many years of use, and Conterno was understandably afraid of the unthinkable, that the casks could finally yield to old age full of wine. Still, he was clearly upset by having to replace barrels that he personally moved into the new winery with his father during the summer of 1985. Just to think of the wines that were racked during that move. The 1978, 1979 and 1982 Monfortini were still in cask. To be honest, seeing the empty space in the winery as the new casks were about to arrive was quite a shock. The wines, however, were not. I tasted all of the wines currently in cask plus the new releases from bottle. My high expectations were easily surpassed. Conterno fans have a lot to look forward to. Roberto Conterno has decided to give his new Nebbiolo from the Cerretta vineyard another year in barrel. At the moment Conterno is leaning towards releasing the 2009 as a Langhe Nebbiolo rather than Barolo, although that could always change. Readers who want to learn more about the 2011 harvest at Conterno may want to take a look at my video interview with Roberto Conterno.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPThe 2004 Barolo Riserva Monfortino confirms its place as one of the finest Monfortinos ever made. From magnum, it is so special. The long growing season produced a Monfortino of unusual silkiness, perfume and elegance. In many ways, the 2004 is the first modern Monfortino – the first vintage that was gorgeous right out of the gate, qualities it shares with the 2008 and 2014, also wines from later-ripening vintages. Soaring aromatics and silky tannins give the 2004 so much sheer appeal that recall the 1982. The 2004 has long been one of my favorites, as it is again on this night.Vinous Media | 100 VM

Mascarello’s 2007 Barolo shows just how compelling this vintage can be, even now. Sensual, layered and totally voluptuous in the glass, the 2007 shows the more flamboyant side of Barolo. I find the wine’s voluptuous, engaging personality impossible to resist. Sure, 2007 is not a classic vintage, but when a wine is this good, I say: Who cares?Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 2007 Barolo has grown tremendously over the last few months. Some bottles have been more closed than others, but what is certain is that the wine is putting on weight. The 2007 appears to have a long drinking window ahead. It is without question one of the wines of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2037.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPMascarello presents an outstanding 2007 base Barolo (with fruit sourced from the Barolo and La Morra zones) that is packed extra tight with generosity, concentration and rich chocolate, cherry and leather aromas. The long finish is soft and velvety, but the tannins and acidity guarantee a long future ahead.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WE

The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is a massive, towering wine of majestic proportions. Everything comes together in the glass; expressive aromatics, striking fruit, powerful yet silky tannins and a long, impeccable finish. This complex, kaleidoscopic Barbaresco is a wine for the ages. The Riserva Asili is a surprisingly powerful wine from this vineyard. Readers will have to wait until 2011, when the wine is released, to taste this utterly profound Barbaresco. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2037.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPGiacosa’s 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is flamboyant, exotically ripe and stunning in its absolute beauty. Bright red cherry fruit, rose petal, violet and mint abound in a spellbinding, utterly thrilling Barbaresco. I have always adored the 2007. Once again, it is pure magic.Antonio Galloni | 98 AGThis will be in the market in 2012. This is full and rich with irresistible silky tannins. This brings more substance and richness than the white label. Lay this down until 2016. 10,000 bottles.James Suckling | 98 JSBursting with sweet cherry, floral, licorice and spice flavors, this ripe red is expressive, supple, balanced and dense, showing the structure to age and a finish of fig and tobacco notes. Best from 2016 through 2030. 170 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The 2008 Barolo (magnum) is a stunner, as it has always been. Intensely aromatic, silky and layered, the 2008 is so elegant. I especially admire its vibrancy and overall freshness, both signatures of the year. Plum, dried flowers, crushed rocks and lavender build in an undeniably sexy Barolo that hits all the right notes.Vinous Media | 98 VMMascarello’s 2008 Barolo is a wine of extraordinary elegance. A sweet, open bouquet leads to dark red fruit, mint, spices and licorice in this pretty, nuanced Barolo. The 2008 is all about detail and understated finesse. It boasts breathtaking purity in its fruit and fabulous overall balance. A textured, finely-knit finish leaves a lasting impression. The 2008 is very classic in style. It will require considerable patience, despite its deceptively medium-bodied structure. This is another dazzling wine from Maria-Theresa Mascarello. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPGorgeous aromas of flowers, dried berries and fresh mushroom that open even more to flowers. Then goes to raspberries. Full to medium body, with a pretty austerity and raciness. Firm and sexy. The texture is very silky. Needs at least three to four year more in the bottle.James Suckling | 95 JSThere’s a dark element to this intense, juicy red, offering black currant and blackberry notes, with a violet accent. Harmonious and supple, revealing refined tannins and a long, fruit-filled finish. Best from 2015 through 2028.Wine Spectator | 92 WSTraditional Barolo of the highest order: a little firm yet will mature beautifully.Decanter | 91 DEC

Pure cherry, rose and leather aromas and flavors emerge after about two hours of aeration. This is rich, with impressive depth and a firm structure for support. Elegant and graceful, showing excellent length on the finish. Best from 2017 through 2027. 170 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSAmazing nose of chocolate, orange peel, plums and hazelnut. Full-bodied, with super fine tannins and a long finish. Intense with a beautiful line of fine tannins that go on for minutes. Superb. 10,000 bottles made. February 2014 release. Leave it for at least four or five years before drinking!James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2008 Barolo Riserva Falletto Vigna Le Rocche (aged 36 months in botte grande) is a gorgeous wine from every perspective. Its 360-degree beauty shines comes through in terms of the intensity of the bouquet and the elegance of the mouthfeel. Again, super-finely textured tannins give the wine backbone and create a supporting structure for rich fruit flavors. There’s just enough consistency here to fill the palate, yet the wine is never heavy or flat. It shows vibrant energy thanks to the natural freshness and that beautiful note of garden fresh red rose that pops up as nostalgic sign-off. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2040.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RP

From the moment we put together this tasting, I knew the 2010 Barolo had to be in the lineup because of its historical significance. It is arguably the greatest wine ever made here. Although naturally very young, the 2010 is super-expressive and also one of the clear highlights of the evening. All the elements simply fall into place. The interplay of aromatics, fruit and structure is utterly captivating. In many ways, the 2010 represents a culmination of all the work Maria Teresa Mascarello and her team have done over the last two decades to elevate quality. The gentleman to my left tells me I made a mistake in my initial review and score of the 2010. I agree.Antonio Galloni | 100 AGFrom one of the denomination’s leading traditional producers, this gorgeous, elegant Barolo opens with floral aromas of dried rose petals, woodland berries, leather, spice and whiffs of balsamic herbs. The palate seamlessly combines crisp, red cherry-berry fruit, white pepper and mint balanced by firm but polished tannins and bright acidity. Full of finesse, it will age majestically. Drink after 2020.Wine Enthusiast | 99 WEA floral-, cherry- and berry-laced version, delicate and lively, with mineral and spice accents. The texture is supple, with a glycerol feel. Borders on racy, with woodsy and mineral notes emerging on the pleasantly long finish. Best from 2017 through 2035. 1,250 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe 2010 Barolo is a singularly elegant expression that benefits from extremely long maceration time (up to 54 days) and a non-interventionists’ winemaking philosophy. The wine is superb in its elegance and finesse that caresses the palate in the most delicate and ethereal manner imaginable. Small fruit tones are enhanced by ash, crushed mineral, licorice and dried mint. Because of changes in how Barolo can be labeled, the wine no longer carries the names of the four single-vineyards that make up the traditional blend for this wine (Canubbi, San Lorenzo, Rue and Rocche di La Morra). Instead, this historic wine is now labeled straightforward “Barolo.” Drink: 2017-2038.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPPure floral red berries and refined tannins; an essence of Barolo. Drinking Window 2022 - 2045Decanter | 95 DEC

The 2010 Barolo Cannubi is dense and compact at this stage, but then the sweet Cannubi tannins kick in. Sweet red berries, crushed flowers, mint and sweet spices wrap around the palate in a generous, textured wine endowed with tons of depth and class. This is a fairly powerful rendering of Cannubi. It will be interesting to see if the wine acquires finesse in bottle, or if it will always be a bit of a brute.Vinous Media | 94 VMRose, tilled earth, and smoky mineral aromas emerge from this luminous, elegant Barolo. The bright palate doles out crushed red cherry and black raspberry accented with herbs, white pepper and clove. The juicy flavors are balanced by vibrant energy and polished tannins. Drink 2018-2038. Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOIt reveals aromas of rose, tilled earth, and smoky mineral. The bright palate doles out crushed red cherry and black raspberry accented with herbs, white pepper and clove. Juicy flavors are balanced by vibrant energy and polished tannins. Drink 2018–2038. Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEWith fruit from the Barolo township, the 2010 Barolo Vigneto Cannubi offers a classic portrait of the Nebbiolo grape with bright berry notes backed by savory tones of balsam herb, dried sage and mint. There-s a distant touch of exotic spice as well, maybe cumin or curry, that adds a somewhat unexpected extra layer of complexity to the wine-s already busy personality. Its overall elegance is already evident at this young stage in its evolution. Drink: 2016-2028.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPPure and fruity on the nose with sliced-strawberry and floral character. Full to medium body with pretty fruit, firm tannins and a fresh acidity. Lots of tar at the finish. Better in 2016.James Suckling | 91 JS

This shows such power and richness, yet it remains polished and silky. Deep from the beginning, on the nose there are mushrooms, some sweet tobacco, opulent dark fruit, meat, black olives and earth. It’s full-bodied, dense and surrounded by ultra-refined tannins. Goes on for minutes. This is the first Barolo from here and will only be bottled in 2000 magnums. From 20-year-old vines bought in 2008. It’s a beautiful wine to taste now but will be so much better in 2017 and onwards.James Suckling | 100 JSA much more overt, powerful wine, the 2010 Barolo Cerretta races across the palate with explosive fruit and tons of pure, unbridled energy. The Cerretta is an immediate, voluptuous wine with so much fruit that the tannins of the vintage are nearly buried. It will be fascinating to see how Conterno’s 2010s age. The Cerretta is shaping up to be magical. Bottled only in magnums.Vinous Media | 96+ VMSmells of ripe bilberry, blackberry and black currant, with an undertone of violet. Rich and round, this is balanced by lively acidity and refined tannins. Young, but already showing harmony and a long aftertaste of sweet fruit. Fine potential. Best from 2018 through 2035. 140 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The 2010 Barolo Tre Tine from Giuseppe Rinaldi is stunning whatever way you look at it. This is everything you could wish for in a Barolo. It offers a cornucopia of aromas: an alluring mixture of red and black fruit, cedar, liquorice and a very subtle medicinal scent, all delivered with ethereal delineation. The palate is perfectly balanced, the tannins having melted a touch to render it perfectly drinkable, even if it constantly reminds you that it will continue to improve with bottle age. It is a long-term Barolo that is destined to give immense pleasure.Vinous Media | 97 VMMade with Nebbiolo from three top vineyard areas, this stunning wine boasts classic Barolo scents of rose, violet, red berry, leather and tilled soil. The vibrant palate delivers crushed black cherry and red raspberry accented with wild mint, white pepper, clove and sage. It has great energy, intensity and aging potential. Drink 2018-2040. Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOMade with Nebbiolo from three top vineyard areas, it boasts scents of rose, violet, red berry, leather and tilled soil. The vibrant palate delivers crushed black cherry and red raspberry accented with wild mint, white pepper, clove and sage. It has great energy, intensity and aging potential. Drink 2018–2040.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEJuicy cherry, raspberry and currant flavors are accented by flowers, tea and tobacco in this elegant, intense red. Long and harmonious, with a lingering aftertaste of fruit, spice and mineral. Best from 2017 through 2032. 550 cases made, 240 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

A dark, virile wine, the 2011 Barolo Cerretta shows just how far Conterno has come with this site. The flavors are dark, bold and incisive throughout, with plenty of dark red cherry, plum, leather, smoke, tar, licorice and scorched earth overtones. Powerful and intense, with a real sense of vertical structure, Cerretta is going to need time to settle down. There is none of the early appeal of the vintage here, so readers will have to be patient. This is going to be a fascinating wine to follow as it ages over the coming decades.Vinous Media | 95+ VMSmells of ripe bilberry, blackberry and black currant, with an undertone of violet. Rich and round, this is balanced by lively acidity and refined tannins. Young, but already showing harmony and a long aftertaste of sweet fruit. Fine potential. Best from 2018 through 2035. 140 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSNew leather, blue flower, raspberry and Mediterranean herb aromas emerge on this full-bodied, concentrated wine. The structured palate doles out creamy raspberry, juicy black cherry marinated in spirits, cinnamon and pipe tobacco alongside velvety tannins. A licorice note wraps up the warm, lingering finish. It’s delicious and already surprisingly accessible. Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KONew leather, blue flower, raspberry and Mediterranean herb aromas emerge on this full-bodied, concentrated wine. The structured palate doles out creamy raspberry, juicy black cherry marinated in spirits, cinnamon and pipe tobacco alongside velvety tannins. A licorice note wraps up the warm, lingering finish. It’s delicious and already surprisingly accessible.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

The 2011 Barolo Riserva Novantesimo is a proud and exuberant wine that does enormous justice to the vintage and to the mighty Nebbiolo grape. This is remembered as a warm growing season, and this wine is richly layered, generous and beautifully intense as a result. Dark cherry aromas are folded within spice, cured tobacco and leather. The best part is that subtle crunch or snap you get on the palate, thanks to the fresh acidity that is neatly integrated within.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPPressed rose, iris, new leather, exotic spice, menthol and a whiff of wild berry come to the forefront on this gorgeous wine. The full-bodied, polished palate has a weightless elegance, delivering raspberry compote, crushed cherry, licorice, aromatic herb and a floral note alongside taut, velvety tannins. It’s already beautiful but hold for even more complexity. Drink 2021–2031. Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOPressed rose, iris, new leather, exotic spice, menthol and a whiff of wild berry come to the forefront on this gorgeous wine. The full-bodied polished palate has a weightless elegance, delivering raspberry compote, crushed cherry, licorice, aromatic herb and a floral note alongside taut velvety tannins. It’s already beautiful but hold for even more complexity. Drink 2021–2031.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEIn 2011, Scavino bottled a small amount of the 2011 Barolo Riserva Novantesimo, a blend of fruit fruit from a handful of top-notch sites to celebrate the winery’s 90th anniversary. A hauntingly beautiful wine, the 2011 graces the palate with notable nuance and detail. Freshly cut flowers, mint and sweet red berries are all laced together in an exquisite Barolo endowed with real class and pedigree. The Novantesimo is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintage. That is little wonder. Look at the vineyard sites: Fiasco (Castiglione Falletto), Monvigliero (Verduno), Cannubi and Vignane (Barolo), San Bernardo (Serralunga), Bricco Ambrogio (Roddi) and Rocche dell’Annunziata (La Morra). This is a fabulous effort.Vinous Media | 96+ VMFresh and inviting, this beckons with complex aromas of cherry, sweet spices, leather and tar. The silky texture and refined tannins complement the cherry liqueur, tobacco and licorice flavors as this glides to a lingering aftertaste. Best from 2020 through 2035. 486 cases made, 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS