Veneto Wines

wines

There’s not too much I can say about the 1995 Recioto other than it is a stunning, unforgettable wine. It explodes from the glass with an array of heady, exotic black cherries, graphite, roasted coffee beans and spices. Endowed with an almost port-like richness, it offers phenomenal concentration and depth on the palate without ever giving the impression of heaviness. It, too, is a remarkable wine in every way and is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2025.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThere’s not too much I can say about the 1995 Recioto other than it is a stunning, unforgettable wine. It explodes from the glass with an array of heady, exotic black cherries, graphite, roasted coffee beans and spices. Endowed with an almost port-like richness, it offers phenomenal concentration and depth on the palate without ever giving the impression of heaviness. It too is a remarkable wine in every way and is not to be missed.Vinous Media | 97 VM

The prodigious 1997 Amarone Vigneto Alto TB is reminiscent of Henri Bonneau’s 1990 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins. The lofty 16% alcohol is barely noticeable. Yields were a minuscule 20 hectoliters per hectare. Sadly, there are only 300 cases of this extraordinary Amarone. It boasts notes of smoke, truffle oil, blackberries, plums, and earthy, concentrated black currant jam. Layered, thick, full-bodied, and dry, with extraordinary purity as well as definition, it is an amazing achievement. While not for everybody, this is a singular, impeccably balanced wine. Anticipated maturity: now-2020.Robert Parker | 96 RP

Another tricky vintage affected by hail and rain during the growing season, but saved by a stretch of sunshine at the end of the summer. This wine is herbaceous but delightful, very elegant and fine. It has delicate cherry lift on the nose, with subtle summer woodland notes. In the mouth it has an overt structure of milk chocolate tannins, framing juicy cherry fruit and hedgerow fruit. Drinking Window 2018 - 2032Decanter | 95 DECDal Forno’s 2002 Amarone is a first-class effort in every way. The wine reveals loads of ripe, generous fruit that flow onto the palate with stunning intensity. This remarkably pure Amarone possesses incredible detail in its dark wild cherries, chocolate, herbs and toasted oak. The tannins build mightily on the finish even if this isn’t one of Dal Forno’s most massive wines. There is a lot of purity and depth here, although the tannins could use a little more polish. At first I thought this might be a relatively early-maturing wine but when I came back to an unopened bottle after two-plus days it had barely budged! Anticipated maturity: 2009-2017.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPDal Forno’s 2002 Amarone is a first-class effort in every way. The wine reveals loads of ripe, generous fruit that flow onto the palate with stunning intensity. This remarkably pure Amarone possesses incredible detail in its dark wild cherries, chocolate, herbs and toasted oak. The tannins build mightily on the finish even if this isn’t one of Dal Forno’s most massive wines. There is a lot of purity and depth here, although the tannins could use a little more polish. At first I though this might be a relatively early-maturing wine but when I came back to an unopened bottle after two-plus days it had barely budged!Vinous Media | 94 VMThis is very balanced and refined with precise tannins and fresh acidity. Full to medium body with integrated tannins and a racy finish. Not as big and muscular as some Amarones from here but all in balance and length. Finesse. Drink now.James Suckling | 93 JSShows aromas of leather, smoked ham, prune, tarry mineral and dried flowers. An amazing panoply for a 2002, which was a weak vintage. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, intense, peppery finish. Given the difficulties of the vintage, this is a fine effort by Dal Forno. Drink now through 2016. 910 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSWinemaker Romano Dal Forno fearlessly confronted the soggy 2002 vintage with high extraction techniques and barrique aging (36 months). This is an inky, dense wine (more syrupy than it is vinous) with black currant, peppermill, chocolate fudge and big firm wood tannins. It is so monolithic, a viable food match is virtually impossible. As always, Dal Forno straddles a fine line between brilliance and exaggeration.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

Monte Lodoletta Amarone is an exercise in extraction. The wine is absolutely black. Aromas are concentrated and intense and the wine is equally enormous in the mouth thanks to the extraction, oak, fruit and the hot climatic conditions associated with this vintage. Drink after 2020.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEDal Forno’s 2003 Amarone is a joy to taste. Today it is surprisingly much more accessible than the Valpolicella in this vintage. Inviting aromatics lead to a sumptuous expression of dark fruit, bitter chocolate, minerals, licorice, tar and smoke. The wine possesses stunning depth and a finish that lasts forever. A few years of bottle age will allow the wine to acquire additional complexity, but this remains one of the more accessible Amarones (in relative terms) that Dal Forno has made in the recent past. According to Dal Forno, the 2003 Amarone has a touch more residual sugar than is the norm here (owing to the hot vintage), which is the main reason the wine remains relatively accessible. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.All of these wines from Romano Dal Forno require significant aeration to show the true breadth of this passionate grower’s innovative style. Ideally the wines should be cellared for a minimum of a few years. Readers in search of short-term gratification are advised to open these bottles at least eight to ten hours before serving. This also holds for the Valpolicella, which has become an especially massive, structured wine after Dal Forno started producing it from 100% dried fruit in the 2002 vintage. Dal Forno favors 100% new American oak for his wines, although in recent years he has brought the aging regime down considerably.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPDal Forno’s 2003 Amarone is a joy to taste. Today it is surprisingly much more accessible than the Valpolicella in this vintage. Inviting aromatics lead to a sumptuous expression of dark fruit, bitter chocolate, minerals, licorice, tar and smoke. The wine possesses stunning depth and a finish that lasts forever. A few years of bottle age will allow the wine to acquire additional complexity, but this remains one of the more accessible Amarones (in relative terms) that Dal Forno has made in the recent past. According to Dal Forno, the 2003 Amarone has a touch more residual sugar than is the norm here (owing to the hot vintage), which is the main reason the wine remains relatively accessible.Antonio Galloni | 95 AGThis has a great nose, with loads of peppery, meaty dried black fruit, fig and floral aromas, with an array of spices, fresh herbs and violet. Full-bodied, concentrated and chewy, with a long, intense finish. Built to age. Best after 2011. 940 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSDal Forno’s practice of using older parcels of vines for his Amarone paid off in 2003, with the more established plants able to better withstand the drought conditions of the vintage. This has aromas of dark, plummy fruit, while the palate pairs a rich mouthfeel with grippy tannins. It’s soft and very textured, with juicy blackberry followed by violet and wild herb overtones and a chocolatey finish. Surprisingly accessible considering its massive scale. Drinking Window 2018 - 2032Decanter | 94 DEC

The 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Ambrosan wafts up extorverted and opulent, with exotic spices and medicinal cherries giving way to mocha and sweet pipe tobacco. This is silky-smooth and soothing, balancing both savory and sweet while coming across as autumnal in character, as rosy inner florals form. There is so much depth and focus here, showing citrus-tinged plum skins with coffee grinds and dark chocolate. This just goes on and on, lightly structured and incredibly long yet balanced. The 2011 Ambrosan is a thrilling wine to taste.Vinous Media | 96 VMVery pretty balance of fruit and tannins with freshness and finesse. Medium-bodied with beautiful, round and polished tannins. Really refined and elegant with lovely length. Drink now.James Suckling | 94 JSCedar, dark-skinned fruit and vanilla aromas form the nose on this hearty red. The chewy palate offers baked plum, coconut and star anise alongside pliant tannins. Drink through 2026.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WE

Such a profound nose of fresh and dried fruit with blackcurrants, dates and prunes, together with lighter notes of mild spice and pomegranate seeds. The fresher elements provide the drive on the full palate and, together with very fine, bright, fine-grained tannins, give a long, chewy yet fresh and pruney finish. Hugely concentrated, but the balance and poise is impeccable. There’s no denying the classic quality of this. Delicious to taste now, but this needs a few years to integrate. Try from 2025.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2015 Valpolicella Superiore Monte Lodoletta is a towering wine that shows impeccable concentration, richness and tight balance. Between Romano and his sons, the Dal Forno family has amassed many years of experimentation and expertise, and they know exactly how to farm in a hot vintage like 2015 without compromising on freshness and structure. This wine opens to deep layers of black fruit, spice, smoky mesquite and campfire ash. It shows big tannic structure that comes with lots of fruit weight and textural padding. But no matter, this is a wine you’ll want to put aside before drinking.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPThe 2015 Valpolicella Superiore Monte Lodoletta wows the senses with a burst of spicy citrus, cherries and incense that leaps from the glass. Further depths develop through each swirl with complementing notes of dried roses, cocoa and clove. It’s elegant and silky-smooth with a harmonious mix of ripe red and hints of blue fruits, a saline core and gorgeous inner florals that form toward the close. Hard red candies and hints of violette pastille linger long, as the mouth is left watering for more. This is firing on all cylinders and full of energy. The Valpolicella of Dal Forno is made 100% from grapes that are dried between 20-25 days.Vinous Media | 94 VMDark, fragrant notes of incense, loamy earth and hot iron are both a sweet and savory entry point for this rich and harmonious red. It’s medium- to full-bodied and fresh, with fine-grained tannins defining flavors of fig cake, crème de cassis, medicinal herb and balsamico. Long, plush, graphite- and spice-laced finish. Corvina, Corvinone, Croatina and Oseleta. Best from 2023 through 2038. 2,100 cases made, 333 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2015 Cabernet Alzero is loaded with varietal character, bursting from the glass with a dark blend of black fruits, savory herbs, pencil lead and crushed stone. This is velvety smooth, with juicy acidity to balance and a core of mineral-tinged red and blue fruits complemented by confectionary spice. It leaves the palate reeling with youthful tension as hints of blood orange swirl under an air of violet inner florals. Dusty tannins resonate throughout. The energy within the 2015 is off the charts and provides a perfect counterpoint to its internal intensity. Bury this one deep.Vinous Media | 95 VM

There will be no Amarone in 2016; instead, we’re treated to a new vintage of Rosso del Bepi. This is dark and brooding in the glass, youthfully coy, with a bouquet of dried roses and violets. Complicating whiffs of incense give way to cherry sauce and dark chocolate. It’s rich and complex yet also remarkably energetic, with a tactile mineral core that enhances its tart red berry fruits while hints of sour orange add a cheek-puckering sourness toward the close. The 2016 finishes with medium length and a chalky sensation, tapering off with suggestions of licorice and tangerine. This sexy and energetic Rosso del Bepi will win a lot of hearts.Vinous Media | 95 VMRestrained black cherries, elegant spices, incense and eucalyptus leaves. The attack is soft and refined with a full body, velvety tannins and zesty yet integrated acidity. Long and intense flavors of cherries and spices. Toasty finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JS

From the second I tilted the glass, I knew that the 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella was a total knockout. Macerated cherries are contrasted by a whiff of tangerine that gives way to vibrant rose tones and autumnal spice. This soothes with glycerol waves of spicy red fruits complemented by cinnamon, clove and dark, dark chocolate tones. There’s tremendous balance here with bright acids and a totally sexy and exotic style. This just goes on and on and finishes structured and firm yet incredibly fresh, leaving the palate stained in concentration as violet floral tones fade. For all of its heady depth and concentration, there are only two grams per liter of residual sugar. You don’t need to save this riveting Amarone for the dessert course.Vinous Media | 97 VMOwner Marco Sartori has slowly modified his winemaking over the years. He dries the grapes for less time these days, especially in hot years, and ferments at cooler temperatures for a more gentle extraction. And, as of 2016, a portion of the wine ages in large Slavonian oak casks (instead of 100% barriques) for less oxidation of the fruit. The 2016 is deeply coloured and youthful with wood spice and smoke dominating the nose. Compact, concentrated fruit is wrapped up in dense tannins, and hints of blackberry and anise emerge on the palpably dry palate. This definitely needs time to unfurl. Release date: January 2021. Drinking Window 2022 - 2032.Decanter | 90 DEC

The 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Morandina is dark and youthfully understated in the glass, as crushed rose petals and stone dust give way to red currants. This is silky-smooth, nearly velvety in feel, with masses of mineral-tinged black cherry and spice contrasted by a twang of sour citrus. The 2016 finishes with outstanding length and depth yet is also remarkably fresh, leaving hints of hard red candy and the slightest touch of bitter cocoa. The Amarone of Prà is always so unique but in the best possible way. The 2016 is a total gem but needs cellaring to come fully into focus.Vinous Media | 96+ VMA savory and complex expression of Amarone with some dried cherries, red dates, stewed herbs, orange peel, tobacco and white pepper. Some bold green peppercorn, too. A svelte delivery of Amarone with a medium body, showing tobacco, cedar and chocolate on the palate. Long, cedary finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSInspired by Dal Forno, renowned Soave producer Graziano Prà purchased 13 hectares high up in eastern Valpolicella’s Mezzane Valley in 2001. The previously unplanted parcel is protected by forest and has been farmed organically from the start. A relatively restrained nose shows dried garden herbs with plum and floral nuances. On the palate, fig and prune flavours are laced with cigar smoke. Velvety, malleable tannins enfold the easy to please package and the finish is bright with a pleasantly bitter edge.Decanter | 93 DECThis elegant red is medium- to full-bodied, with creamy tannins providing a fine frame for flavors of brambly red currant and blackberry fruit, pine, orange peel and crushed pink peppercorn. A subtle, savory overtone of cured tobacco and smoky bacon fat echoes on the fresh finish. Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Oseleta. Drink now through 2030. 833 cases made, 250 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Here’s an iconic wine from the Veneto made from a blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon and 32% Merlot. The Maculan 2017 Fratta shows enormous intensity, muscle and brawn. The wine has absorbed every last drop of sunshine, heat and dry weather conditions that characterized the 2017 growing season, and it does so with elegance and poise. The wine is impeccably balanced with dark fruit and spice. It’s the kind of big-boned red wine you’ll want to pair with a hearty dish of barbecue or marinated beef. Some 7,000 bottles were made, and I tasted bottle number 589. The Fratta spirit is beautifully expressed in 2017.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPDeep, dense aromas of crushed black fruit with notes of charcoal and dried herbs, such as rosemary and thyme. The fruit envelops the lightly firm tannins on the full-bodied palate, creating a dense, velvety and lengthy mouthful. A well-crafted red that’s highly concentrated and bursting with flavor, but it also shows astute balance. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2017 Fratta lifts up with a dark and alluring display of black currants, sweet herbs, rich notes of mocha and savory brown spice. This is cool-toned and spicy, a bit lean, yet with a polished feel, showing tart blackberries offset by hints of sour citrus and toasty oak, as violet-tinged florals form toward the close. Fine tannins make themselves known throughout the finale, as this tapers off lightly structured, with hints of licorice lingering long. The Fratta is a blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot, refined for one year in French barriques. While a year or two of cellaring may bring a bit more flesh to the expression, I expect the 2017 will always have a slender feel.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2017 Amarone della Valpolicella Case Vecie is dreamy, wafting up with a remarkably fresh bouquet that features roses, violets, shavings of cedar, dusty cherry and sweet smoke. This is elegance personified, with ripe red and black fruits excited by vibrant acidity as confectionary spice emerges. Minerals add a more tactile feel toward the close. Balsam herbs and hints of mocha resonate as the 2017 finishes with a gentle tug of tannin and a slight bitter twang that punctuates the wine perfectly. This child of a warm vintage shows impressive balance and tremendous potential for the future. Bury your bottles deep.Vinous Media | 96 VMEnticing aromas of dried strawberries and raspberries, together with notes of heather-like herbs and dried citrus peel. Full-bodied with beautiful, silky tannins that embrace the fruit and add length. In fact this is very long, releasing more and more cedar and spicy dried peel for you to savor. An excellent 2017 from a top Amarone vineyard site. Enjoyable now and will age for many a year.James Suckling | 94 JSThis single-vineyard Amarone is high in the hills of the Valpantena Valley and opens with aromas of macerated black cherries steeped in anise and clove that then evolve into notes of forest floor and dried herbs. Finesse is driven with a balance between wild plums, savory and oolong tea notes that are guided by the elegant tannins and mouth-watering acidity on the end. A classic wine. Drink Now–2045. 94 points. Cellar Selection.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

The 2017 Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli is intense, like cracking open an ashen stone to find a bevy of dried black cherries, cinnamon sticks, incense and dried herbs. This is deeply textural with a balanced inner sweetness elevated by vibrant acidity as depths of tart red fruit balance and slowly saturates the palate in primary concentration. The 2017 finishes structured and dramatically long, begging for further cellaring, as a bitter tinge of currants and clove fade. Maybe splitting hairs, but I didn’t believe that Tenuta Sant’Antonio could outdo their 2016 Campo dei Gigli, but over time the 2017 may be up to the task.Vinous Media | 95+ VMThick and rather syrupy dried black fruit faces a wall of black-peppery, toasted oak on the nose, then turning more licoricy on the palate. Any subtler, more complex character is for now waiting in the wings for the youthful fruit and oak to vacate the center-stage. And that may take some time. Nevertheless, it’s attractive to drink even now and will continue to give pleasure for many a year. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSThis rich Amarone is all that it is supposed to be and more. The nose is loaded with blackberry and cassis with licorice and savory herbs layered atop the intense fruit aromas. The palate shows off the beauty of the vineyard with deep dark plum notes wrapped around sweet chocolate and baking spices with fine tannins and a long finish.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEFrom the estate’s oldest vineyard, a limestone site with some silt and sand located at 300m above sea level planted 40 years ago. It’s a blend of Corvina and Corvinone (70%), Rondinella (20%), Croatina (5%) and Oseleta (5%), fermented in stainless steel then matured in new 500l casks for 36 months. It has distinct aromas of chocolate wheat and spiced plum crumble. In the mouth, lurking austere black fruits and balsamic freshness with streaks of tangy red fruits and dusty spice are supported by fine, grainy tannins. Bold, sweet and succulent, it demonstrates some limestoney mid-palate tightness that lends desirable finesse to this ample wine.Decanter | 92 DEC

The 2018 Amarone della Valpolicella Case Vecie is darkly alluring and brooding in the glass, with a dusting of confectionary spice and dried violets complementing wild blueberries and a lifting whiff of fresh mint. Soothingly round and surprisingly juicy in feel, this shows its minerality up front, as depths of tart wild berry fruits meet vibrant acidity, and an array of exotic spices emerges toward the close. It finishes tannic yet fresh and incredibly long, leaving a bitter blackberry crunch, violet inner florals and chalky concentration that boggles the mind. Bury the 2018 deep in your cellar, this is a long-distance runner.Vinous Media | 96 VM

Wow. This is fantastic with mangoes, lemons, pears and hints of vanilla. Mineral, too. It’s full-bodied with bright fruit and a vivid finish. Lots of minerals. A selection of the best grapes of Inama in the grand cru Foscarino. Much less use of barrels than in the past with large casks and stainless. Superb. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Soave Classico I Palchi Foscarino Grande Cuvée is a platinum-golden color with a youthfully intense bouquet that blends raw almond with stone dust, dusty dried flowers and Asian pear. This seduces with its silken textures and supple personality, washing across the palate with crisp, ripe orchard fruits complicated by a salty mix of savory herbs and minerals. The 2021 tapers off dramatically long and fresh, leaving a resonance of mint and liquid stone.Vinous Media | 95 VMThis is the third vintage produced, and the team at Inama is happy with what they’ve learned along the way in order to get to this point. The 2021 Soave Classico Foscarino Grande Cuvée I Palchi is what they describe as the most representative of the goal for this wine. Made with 100% Garganega, the wine is beautifully textured and fresh, almost crunchy, and very detailed across with peach, honeydew melon, exotic fruit and crushed oyster shell. I Palchi consists of terraced vineyards with 50- to 60-year-old vines trained with the overhead pergola trellis system. Garganega tends to be a very vigorous grape. The choice of oak use here is carefully contemplated with 50% Stockinger oak casks, 10% new oak, 20% used wood and 20% acacia wood.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPI Palchi (first vintage, 2019) is the replacement for Du Lot, which Alessio Inama described as ’oily, powerful, oaky.’ The name means ’parcels’, referring to the terraces of pergola-trained old-vine Garganega which provide the fruit for this wine. ’Crazy selection is the game changer,’ he explained, noting that only bunches which have achieved a certain yellow hue are picked, as those grapes offer body combined with freshness. Ageing is for six months in 50% large casks, 10% new vapour-toasted barriques, 20% used barriques and 20% stainless steel. The wine is then blended before spending a further six months in stainless steel. Rich, round and flinty, it’s full of exotic and peachy yellow fruits, allied to lovely freshness and poised sapidity. Smoky and spicy hints emerge on the long, slightly woody finish. Class.Decanter | 94 DECGrown on wide terraces on the Monte Foscarino, this Soave showcases Garganega’s importance as one of Italy’s great and noble white grapes. The nose opens with aromas of fleshy white peach, Fuji apple, acacia honey, dried yellow flowers and subtle hints of baking spice. Rich and full in body, yet graceful at the same time, the wine has notes of roasted orange peel, apricot and pear all dusted with baking spices and finishing with a crushed stone minerality. Drink now–2035.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEFresh and finely meshed, with minerally hints of chalk and saline underscoring flavors of yellow apple and pear, spring blossoms and grapefruit pith. This drapes the palate like raw silk -- textured but without excessive weight -- and lingers on the lightly spiced finish. Drink now through 2031. 25 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS