Volnay

wines

The timid nose requires aggressively swirling to coax the black cherry, violet, plum, Asian-style tea and spice aromas to reveal themselves. In typical fashion this is notably finer than the Champans with an abundance of almost pungent minerality to the highly energetic and appealingly fresh middle weight flavors that possess excellent length on the overtly austere and restrained finish. Despite the excellent concentration and focused power this remains a wine of refinement and grace that is classic Clos des Ducs in character. Like the Taillepieds in 2012 there is a hint of warmth but there is so much going on here that I don’t believe it will matter in the long run. Note that this brilliant effort will need a very long time to come together and in magnum format I’m not entirely certain that even 20 years of age will be sufficient to see this at its complete apogee.Burghound | 95 BHDark, bright red. Subtly complex scents of black cherry, menthol, toast, mocha and soil are complicated by hints of leather and herbs. Quite dark and powerful on the palate and impressively creamy, thick and sweet. But today this wine is medicinal and bound-up and not yet showing its inherent sweetness as its huge tannins arrive early and cut off the fruit. Happily, there’s no bitterness from the hail but this wine is in an awkward stage today, with its tannins dominating. I should note that d’Angerville and régisseur François Duvivier are very high on this wine, but at the moment I see its solidity more than the mineral lift it showed shortly after being bottled. Incidentally, Angerville noted that during the vinifications in 2013 and 2014, he "pumped out the juice, cleaned it overnight, then put it back onto the berries," which he said "eliminated all the mud created by the hail. " He added: "I wish we had done this in 2012." (13.5% alcohol; September 22 harvest; 3.68 pH; barely ten hectoliters per hectare were produced due to three hail events in Volnay: two at the end of June within 24 hours, then again in early August; the Clos des Ducs was released entirely in magnums but d’Angerville pulled a 750-ml. bottle from his library)Vinous Media | 94+ VMThe 2012 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs offers possibly the most intriguing bouquet this year. It certainly has the most complexity with nuanced dark cherry, cranberry leaf, raspberry and cold stone scents that initially seem a little austere but open nicely with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins. The oak is a little more conspicuous at this moment, although that will be subsumed with time. The finish is composed and contains an attractive white pepper, almost white fennel-like note that is sustained throughout the aftertaste. Very fine. Drink 2016-2030.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP