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A virtually perfect effort is the 1997 Sperss (30,000 bottles), which represents the essence of truffles, earth, and black cherries in its striking aromatics and multidimensional, opulent, full-bodied palate. The acidity seems low because of the huge glycerin levels and prodigious concentration of fruit, but I suspect it is normal in the scheme of oenological measurement. This profound wine requires 3-4 years of cellaring, and should age well for 30-35 years.A genius for sure, Angelo Gaja can not be faulted for what he puts in the bottle. This work of art is worth every cent it will fetch.Robert Parker | 99 RPAdmittedly, Gaja’s 1997 Sperss doesn’t quite hit the high notes it so often does. More often than not, the 1997 has been pretty much open for business, but this bottle is more reticent than other recent examples.Vinous Media | 97 VMDark ruby. Loads of blackberry, vanilla and milk chocolate on the nose. Turns to licorice and flowers. Full-bodied, with a subtle tannin structure and fresh and focused fruit. Balanced and pretty wine. Just starting to open.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Best from 2008 through 2017. 2,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2012 Barolo Ravera is once again a star. Finely cut and chiseled throughout, the 2012 boasts striking precision and nuance. Rose petal, chalk, white pepper, cranberry and pomegranate burst forward in a brilliant, exceptionally polished Barolo built on pure, sculpted elegance. Over the last few years Vietti has done a tremendous job in taming the intense Ravera tannins while preserving all of the focus that makes the wines from this site so alluring. The Ravera has been fabulous on the two occassions I have tasted it so far.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGThe tar and asphalt comes through here with ripe plum and berry character too. Full body, tight and muscular. Deep and thought-provoking. Give it two or three years to open but already impressive to taste.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2012 Barolo Ravera is a beautiful wine and a fully-loaded Nebbiolo. The wine offers thick lines and deep concentration with seamless integration even at this very young stage in its evolution. The bouquet is redolent of dried cherry, spice, tar and tilled earth. This is a wine of utmost elegance, grace and nobility. Past vintages have appeared firmly closed when tasted too young, but the 2012 vintage is more relaxed and unclenched than expected.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThis is rich, pure and focused, featuring ripe cherry, raspberry, spice and tobacco aromas and flavors. Elegant and harmonious, if a bit closed on the finish now, but everything is in the right place. The sweet fruit returns on the aftertaste. Best from 2019 through 2033. 300 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Gaja’s 2013 Sperss is fabulous. Deep and powerful, yet also wonderfully translucent, the 2013 hits all the right notes. Graphite, game, smoke, licorice, plum, black cherry and dark spice are some of the signatures, but as is always the case with the best vintages, Sperss is a wine of vertical intensity and muscle. The 2013 won’t be anywhere near ready to drink for a number of years. All the pedgiree and character of these Serralunga sites come through in an exceptionally beautiful and vivid Barolo from Gaja.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGThe gem of the 2013s is the 2013 Barolo Sperss which comes from limestone-dominated soils. The 2013 is deep, concentrated, and structured, with a fabulous sense of minerality in its black cherry, leafy herbs, damp earth, and licorice aromas and flavors. From a late, cool vintage, it has awesome purity of fruit, plenty of tannins, and a huge finish. It’s a brilliant wine any way you look at it. I’d happily drink this elixir today, but it deserves at least 3-4 years and will keep for 25+.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThis wine shows the quintessential attributes of the Serralunga d’Alba appellation with dark fruit flavors and powerful intensity. The 2013 Barolo Sperss paints a very authentic picture of its unique territory with rich layers of black fruit, wet earth, black truffle, licorice and spice. The wine’s tannic structure is firm and lasting. It shows broad shoulders and rich texture overall. This beautiful Barolo boasts a dark color and thick concentration with the aromatic elegance obtained in the 2013 vintage. This important wine is now part of the Barolo DOCG family.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPTextbook rose, tar and cherry aromas and flavors, with accents of oak spice, licorice and tobacco, are the hallmarks of this complex red. Powerful yet harmonious, showing fine structure and a lingering finish. Best from 2022 through 2040. 375 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSAmazing aromas of cherries, oranges and light prunes with hints of wet earth and mushrooms. Very perfumed. It’s medium-bodied, firm and direct. Great vino. Needs at least five years to come together but already a joy to taste.James Suckling | 96 JSUnderbrush, toast, menthol, grilled herb and star anise aromas lead the way. Firmly structured but loaded with finesse, the taut palate delivers Morello cherry, raspberry, licorice and a toasted note while assertive, close-grained tannins provide the framework. It’s still young and austere so give it time to fully develop. Drink 2023–2033.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WE

Underbrush, new leather, wild herb and dark-skin berry aromas meld with balsamic whiffs of eucalyptus. The full-bodied firmly structured palate evokes raspberry compote, black cherry marinated in spirits, tobacco and star anise set against a backbone of close-grained tannins. This will age for decades. Drink 2023–2043.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEDeep red-ruby. Delicate aromas of flinty red cherry and herbs complicated by hints of mocha and lifted by a bright violet topnote. Dense, rich and concentrated but light on its feet, offering a very polished mouthfeel thanks to serious but noble tannins that nicely frame the refined, steely red fruit flavors. Finishes long and very elegant. Just like the 2013 Brunello Rennina, this also has 15% alcohol but is so well balanced that you can hardly tell (unlike with the Rennina). Knockout young Brunello from Gaja, one of the very best in memory.Vinous Media | 95+ VMThe 2013 Sugarille is more classic in style than the Rennina yet is still a ripe, sexy beast of a Brunello. Ripe cherries, red currants, spice, and balsamic notes all flow to a concentrated, medium to full-bodied effort that has nicely integrated acidity, solid mid-palate depth, and enough ripe tannins to keep it drinking nicely for 10-15+ years or more. It’s a beautiful wine.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe single-vineyard 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille has a tighter core and a blacker heart compared to the Rennina. This wine is momentarily more difficult to penetrate and comprehend. It makes a more abrupt first impression but then relaxes and reveals more of its character only after it has spent extra time in your company. Then, it becomes suddenly exuberant and loud. This is a dynamic expression of Sangiovese with bold ripe fruit, spice and balsam notes to carry it forward during cellar aging. This vintage offers firmness and strength. Some 20,000 bottles were produced (of both Sugarille and Rennina, respectively).Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPA mix of sweet plum, cherry, bouillon and graphite aromas and flavors, all backed by a solid structure, this is dense and tightly wound, with terrific balance and a long, focused finish. Best from 2022 through 2036. 400 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSA very aromatic red. Typical sangiovese aromas of cherry and rose petal with hints of bark. Full body, firm and silky tannins. A racy linear line runs through it. Tight and firm now. Give it two or three years to soften.James Suckling | 94 JS