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A comparison of two 1961s from Giacomo Conterno is next. Conterno’s 1961 Barolo Riserva Speciale Monfortino is, not surprisingly, deeper and more intense in all of its dimensions. Iron, smoke, graphite, leather and sweet tobacco wrap around a core of dark fruit in a Barolo that packs a serious punch, especially considering its age. This is a superb bottle.Vinous Media | 95 VMThe 1961 Barolo Riserva Monfortino was especially beautiful and fresh. It offered a similar flavor profile as the 1958 with greater harmony and balance, if not quite as much sheer power.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

The 1961 Barolo from Cantina Mascarello (magnum) was masculine, powerful and impressively rich for a wine of this vintage, while the 1958 Barolo (magnum) fared less well. The 1958 can be a legendary wine, but on this night the wine was exceedingly evolved.Vinous Media | 95 VMIt had been nearly a decade since I last tasted a bottle of the 1961 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo and the wine has seemingly not been touched by time in the interim. Perhaps this most recent bottle was just in even better condition than the previous bottles I have enjoyed, but my projected window of drinkability for this wine back in the article on Bartolo in the fall of 2007 now seems rather ridiculously conservative. The utterly brilliant bouquet shows plenty of Cannubi character in its complex blend of red and black cherries, woodsmoke, gamebirds, gentle tariness, tobacco ash, spiced meats, coffee and a topnote of fresh oregano. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very pure, with a sappy core of fruit, stunning soil inflection, melting tannins, bright acids and stunning length and grip on the very complex and refined finish. Clearly, the last few bottles of this wine that I tasted were a touch more advanced, and this wine still has many, many years of life still ahead of it. A beautiful bottle of Barolo. (Drink between 2011 - 2025)John Gilman | 94 JG

Full-bodied, unctuous and powerful in the glass, the 1985 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano is a total turn on. Exotic spice, smoke, tobacco, dried rose petal, leather and licorice build into a heady crescendo of aromas, flavors and textures. Although the 1985 is currently at a glorious peak of expression, I don’t expect it will improve much from here. Readers lucky enough to have had the 1985 know just how magical it is. Any remaining bottles are best enjoyed over the next decade or so.Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 1985 Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva’s medium ruby/garnet color displays considerable amber at the edge. The intoxicating perfume of Chinese black tea, smoke, tobacco, cherries, and exotic spices jumps from the glass. The wine is full-bodied, gorgeously-nuanced, and multidimensional, with considerable glycerin and layers of flavor. It unfolds fabulously in the mouth, exhibiting remarkable intensity and complexity. The 1985 has just reached full maturity, where it should remain for another decade.Robert Parker | 96 RPGiven how many bottles of the 1982 Santa Stefano Red Label I have drunk over the years, it is surprising that I have seldom had the pleasure to drink the superb 1985 version, and it is more than fifteen years since I last crossed paths with this wine. It is a fine, fine wine, but not one of the legends of the decade of the 1980s from Signor Giacosa. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a nicely blossomed blend of red and black cherries, bonfire, a touch of road tar, lovely soil tones, oregano and a topnote of fresh bay leaf. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, complex and still sporting a bit of backend tannin, with fine focus and grip, a good, solid core and a long, well-balanced finish. This is a very good bottle that misses the extra dimension of the 1982 and 1989 versions. (Drink between 2017 - 2040)John Gilman | 93 JG

Bruno Giacosa, like Bartolo Mascarello, often told me he preferred 1986 to 1985. Of course, 1985 is the vintage that got all the press, while 1986 is remembered for a devastating hailstorm in May that decimated production. Very little wine was made that year, but what was bottled turned out to be quite good, and in some cases, better than that. Sadly, this is not a great bottle of Bruno Giacosa’s 1986 Barolo Riserva. The overall impression is of a delicate, lifted, fully mature Barolo. Only the memory of better bottles helps put this one into context, because taken on its own, this is still a very fine bottle of Barolo.Vinous Media | 94 VMAmazing fresh fruit. Loads of berry, cherry and spice. A beauty. Long and soft. Reviewed in a non-blind tasting. Drink now.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

(Barbaresco “Asili di Barbaresco” Riserva- Bruno Giacosa) I would never dream of opening one of my bottles of 1996 Asili Riserva from Bruno Giacosa right now, as the wine is still a good decade or two away from really blossoming, but when a friend generously served one, I was very, very happy to check in on the wine and see how it is progressing! The bouquet has started to stir nicely and now offers up a pure and complex blend of cherries, licorice, road tar, a gorgeous base of Asili’s inimitable terroir, red curry, a touch of fennel seed and a gentle topnote of fresh oregano. On the palate the wine is very deep, full-bodied and tangy, with unmistakable profundity in its future. The core here is bottomless, the tannins are ripe and seamlessly integrated, and the focus and grip on the very, very long, perfectly balanced finish are haunting. This has been a legend in the making since it was released, and though it is still at least a dozen years away from really starting to drink with a bit of generosity, its inherent beauty is already very easy to read. Just be patient, as it will probably be a perfect wine when it is truly ready to drink! (Drink between 2030-2100).John Gilman | 98 JGThe utterly perfect, dense ruby/purple-colored 1996 Barbaresco Asili (Red Label Riserva) is a heroic offering brilliantly displaying both power and elegance. The bouquet develops incrementally, offering up aromas of black raspberries, cherries, cigar box, licorice, and leather. The wine impresses with its nuances as well as its extraordinarily rich, dense mid-palate, and a finish that lasts nearly a minute. There is huge tannin, but equally massive concentration, extract, and overall harmony. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2025.Robert Parker | 98 RPGiacosa’s 1996 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is a total stunner. Fresh, perfumed and inviting, the 1996 is a real treat to taste and drink at this adolescent stage in its life. The tannins have now softened, releasing an extraordinary amount of Nebbiolo fireworks that captivate all the senses. The 1996 Asili is still as memorable as it was the first time I tasted it. My only regret is not owning more than a handful of bottles. What a wine!.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGLots of raspberry, mushroom and black cherry, with a hint of vanilla. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a long, fruity finish. Still a little reserved, but shows lovely fruit. A gorgeous wine. Goes on and on.--1996 Piedmont retrospective. Best after 2008. 1,190 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The 1996 Sperss is arguably the most backward of these 1996s from Gaja. Still very young and tightly wound, the 1996 is going to need at least a few years to truly blossom. Even so, it is likely to remain somewhat compact and classically austere in build. The flavors are dark, with plenty of melted road tar, lavender, smoke and gravel undertones that add shades of nuance to this potent and imposing Serralunga wine.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGThe spectacular 1996 Barolo Sperss boasts an opaque ruby/purple color in addition to enormously ripe black cherries, tar, flowers, and white truffles. Extremely full-bodied, with compelling intensity and purity, this is a large-scaled, massive Barolo with plenty of tannin, and 2-3 decades of ageability. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2030...Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96 RPA very ripe red, almost raisiny and curranty. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and lots of tar and ripe fruit character. Getting better, but still a bit austere. Needs time.--1996 Piedmont retrospective. Best after 2009. 2,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 1996 Barolo Falletto de Serralunga (Red Label Riserva) possesses extraordinary presence and stature. Dark garnet/ruby-colored, it offers a tight but promising nose of road tar, scorched earth, truffles, blackberries, cherries, and espresso. This muscular, massive wine gave me chills. It is an exquisite, virtually perfect Barolo that requires a decade of cellaring, and should last for 30-40 years. I remember wishing I were twenty years younger when I tasted it prior to bottling ... I still feel the same way. Awesome! Anticipated maturity: 2010-2040.Robert Parker | 98 RPAs much as I don't believe in the idea of competition in wine, there is simply no doubt that Bruno Giacosa's 1996 Barolo Riserva Falletto is both one of the greatest wines he ever made and also the single most emotionally moving wine from Piedmont's 1996 vintage. Once again, the 1996 Barolo Riserva Falletto more than lives up to its lofty reputation. The wine needs time in the decanter for some initial VA funk to blow off, but when it does, what emerges is a Barolo of utterly captivating beauty. Bruno Giacosa’s finest wines are defined by haunting inner sweetness and extraordinary perfume. The 1996 has all that, and so much more, starting with a full vibrant red color and tons of intensity. Time has mellowed the tannins to some degree, but my sense is that the 1996 will always remain somewhat brutish in feel. Even so, there is no denying its allure. Readers lucky enough to own the 1996 should be ecstatic. It is one of the world’s truly great, great wines.Vinous Media | 98 VMTerrific aromas of crushed fruit, Indian spices and dried flowers follow though to a full-bodied palate, with silky tannins and a long, long finish. Just a baby, but very balanced and pretty.--1996 Piedmont retrospective. Best after 2009. 200 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The opaque ruby/purple-colored 1996 Barolo Cannubi is a powerfully built, uncompromising wine with huge extract, brawny earthy, cherry, licorice, and tobacco flavors, and high levels of tannin. It is a traditionally made Barolo that requires a decade of cellaring. Everything is present for future brilliance, but patience will be essential. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025.Robert Parker | 91-94 RPBig and powerful, with lots of fruit and a minty, woody character. Starting to come around now. Full-bodied, silky and excellent.--1996 Piedmont retrospective. Best after 2008. 460 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

A virtually perfect effort is the 1997 Sperss (30,000 bottles), which represents the essence of truffles, earth, and black cherries in its striking aromatics and multidimensional, opulent, full-bodied palate. The acidity seems low because of the huge glycerin levels and prodigious concentration of fruit, but I suspect it is normal in the scheme of oenological measurement. This profound wine requires 3-4 years of cellaring, and should age well for 30-35 years.A genius for sure, Angelo Gaja can not be faulted for what he puts in the bottle. This work of art is worth every cent it will fetch.Robert Parker | 99 RPAdmittedly, Gaja’s 1997 Sperss doesn’t quite hit the high notes it so often does. More often than not, the 1997 has been pretty much open for business, but this bottle is more reticent than other recent examples.Vinous Media | 97 VMDark ruby. Loads of blackberry, vanilla and milk chocolate on the nose. Turns to licorice and flowers. Full-bodied, with a subtle tannin structure and fresh and focused fruit. Balanced and pretty wine. Just starting to open.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Best from 2008 through 2017. 2,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 1997 Le Vigne is edged by the 1997 Barolo Cannubi Boschis that follows. Ample and incredibly inviting, the 1997 Cannubi Boschis is a wine of total sensuality. An exotic mélange of dark cherry, plum, leather and spice melds into the super-expressive finish. All of a sudden the conversation stops at the dinner table. That is what great wines can do.Vinous Media | 98 VMThe prodigious 1997 Barolo Cannubi Boschis possesses a dark saturated garnet color. The sweet nose of black fruits, minerals, scorched earth, smoke, dried herbs, and wet stones is stunning. Amazingly concentrated, with tremendous unctuousity yet superb delineation, this large-scaled as well as elegant Barolo possesses fabulous extract as well as a multidimensional mid-palate and finish. It is an amazing effort! Anticipated maturity: 2003-2020.Robert Parker | 96 RPMedium ruby red color. Very opulent aromas of plum, roses and spice. Full-bodied, with exotic fruit flavors and layers of silky tannins. Amazing fruit. Breathtaking. Hard not to drink now. Even better than I remember.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Best after 2010. 1,080 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

The 1997 Barolo Le Vigne is another wine that faithfully expresses the personality of the vintage. Rich, dense and beautifully layered in the glass, the 1997 is a luscious, deep Barolo with considerable appeal. My only quibble is that the French oak is a bit too dominant.Vinous Media | 95 VMDark ruby red, with a garnet edge. Aromas of dried currant, raisin and vanilla beans. Full-bodied, with loads of ripe fruit, from strawberry to peach to mango. Exotic fruit. Gorgeous wine. Irresistible.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Drink now. 500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe dark ruby-colored 1997 Barolo Le Vigne reveals amber at the edge. It offers stunning aromatics consisting of flowers, black fruits, lead pencil, spice box, and minerals. As is typical for Sandrone's offerings, there is extraordinary purity as well as intensity to the blackberry and cherry fruit flavors. As the wine sits in the glass, mineral and tar notes become more apparent. This is a stunning, gorgeously pure, Chateau Margaux-like Barolo to consume between 2002-2018.Robert Parker | 94 RP