Wine Ratings

wines

2020 was a challenging year that gave them a lot of work in the vineyard, but it it paid off. The 2020 Laurel feels very elegant, balanced and fresh, a little lighter perhaps, with perfectly ripe tannins, a little in line with 2016 or 2013. It might be a little unusual for the house style or perhaps a slight change, as they are gradually going for softer vinifications; you don’t really need to extract in Priorat, because the wines are powerful enough on their own. It’s still extremely young and has a lactic touch (that blows off with a bit of time in the glass); it was only bottled at the end of May 2022, three months before I tasted it. Even if it’s the second wine here, it’s a wine that needs a little bit of time and improves in the bottle. Having said that, the 2020s feel more open, expressive and approachable than the 2019s, which are more tannic and powerful while the 2020s feel a little more Burgundian if you like. This has to be one of the finest vintages of Laurel so far. After some time in the glass, the aromatics of the Syrah (which was perhaps a little more this year, some 12% versus 8% in 2019) made an appearance—violets, smoked bacon. Daphne Glorian told me that everything was easy, that the wine was expressive and open from day one and that the fermentations were smooth. There are some 19,000 bottles of this.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RP

The juicy, velvety and aromatic red 2020 Pícaro del Águila Tinto is fine-boned and quite faithfully represents what they want to express with this cuvée; it’s very tasty and has some chalkiness (perhaps through less ripeness than in years like 2018) with 14% alcohol and mellow acidity. The nose reveals some Côte-Rôtie-like notes of smoked meat and violets. 2020 delivered a good crop of healthy grapes that produced the finest wine to date for this bottling. This is superb, elegant and powerful, with everything in place (seems to be the signature of 2020) and perfectly integrated oak. 71,382 bottles and 1,979 magnums produced. It was bottled in September 2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP

The super intense, powerful and sharp 2020 Leirana O Pradiño is one of the new wines here. It’s an explosive, powerful and sharp Albariño from a vineyard they planted in 2012 in Sanxenxo on decomposed gneiss soils with a very fine sandy texture. It has 12.2% alcohol and retained 10.03 grams of acidity and exceptional freshness that creates a small explosion in your mouth. It’s citrusy and mineral, sharp but also balanced and round. It has a nose of hay, straw and freshly cut grass that reminds me of some old traditional Albariño, with a very austere mouthfeel, chalky and fine-grained. This is a wine that used to contribute to the Leirana blend, but they have been fine-tuning and looking for an expressive Albariño that is different. The bottled wine is 12.2% alcohol and has the highest acidity of all the wines here—over 10 grams of acidity. This is the first vintage of a wine that was fermented and matured in oak barrels for one year. Only 750 bottles were filled in July 2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RP

”This Garnacha is part of Zorzal’s series of terroir-focused wines. Coming from Fitero, a village at the base of the mountains in the south of Navarra that separate the region from La Rioja, the 40-year-old vines are grown at 520m on rocky soils on limestone and clay. The wine is defined by an elegant and precise structure but does not lack any intensity with blackberry fruit, black pepper and a little mint. With just enough tannic grip, it is profound yet full of energy and drive.Tim Atkin | 97 TAA longtime favorite of mine and still a bargain, the 2021 Malayeto is always one of the most elegant and finest wines from Zorzal. It comes from 2.39 hectares of vines that are now 43 years old, planted at 520 meters altitude on limestone-rich soils in the village of Fitero, on the same slope as their Corral de los Altos. It fermented in a combination of stainless steel and concrete and matured in 12 used 500-liter barrels and one 4,000-liter oak foudre for one year. It has 13.45% alcohol and is medium-bodied with great balance, finesse, freshness and acidity. It has good depth and a sense of good ripeness (riper than Corral de los Altos this year!). There is great consistency in this vineyard, and this wine is serious, precise and long. 13,300 bottles produced. It was bottled in February 2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPMalayeto is Viña Zorzal’s single vineyard bottling of Garnacha, with these vines thirty-five years of age. The wine is fermented with native yeasts and raised for nine months in three hundred liter, used barrels, prior to racking into large foudres for a final two months of élevage. The 2021 Malayeto comes in at fourteen percent alcohol and delivers a lovely aromatic constellation of raspberries, fruitcake, pepper, chalky soil tones, garrigue, a nice touch of meatiness and a gentle topnote of distant bonfire. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and ripely tannic, with fine focus and grip, a good core of red fruit and soil, lovely balance and a long, youthfully complex finish. Unlike the regular bottle of Garnacha from Viña Zorzal, the Malayeto will need some time in the cellar to soften up its tannins a bit before it drinks with generosity. (Drink between 2031 - 2065)John Gilman | 91 JG

The vino de villa village red 2021 Corullón is extremely floral and elegant, clean, precise, fresh and very complete and harmonious, with a super elegant mouthfeel and a very long finish. 19,716 bottles and some smaller and larger formats produced. It was bottled in January 2022. This is super balanced and is aging slowly, with potential to age much more.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPA very refined and elegant expression with juicy raspberries, wild cherries and strawberries. Subtle rose hips, spice and pomegranate, too, with a hint of white pepper. Nimble and agile with a linear, medium-bodied palate, unleashing fine, chalky tannins. Mineral and precise in the finish. Serious, but effortlessly drinkable, too. From organically grown grapes. Hard to resist now.James Suckling | 95 JS

Granito is an exciting new wine from one of the key figures in the renaissance of Garnacha in Riojoa, aged in two different containers made from the eponymous rock. Stony, fine and complex, it marries raspberry and red cherry flavours with fine tannins and a mineral core. 2023-30Tim Atkin | 95 TA

Most of the Pena El Gato range is wooded, but this one was fermented and aged in a day amphora. Sourced from the same 1917 vineyard as the Vinas Centenarias bottling, it’s earthy, firm and complex, with sappy tannis and plum and bramble fruit. 2023-30Tim Atkin | 94 TA

The 2021 Post-Crucifixión is from an ancient plot of 0.25 hectares planted with a field blend of Mencía and plenty of Galician varieties—Merenzao, Brancellao, Palomino or Godello in Santalla del Bierzo. The cooler 2021 delivered a wine with only 12% alcohol and lots of freshness. It fermented with 100% full clusters that were foot trodden in clay tinajas with a long maceration and aged 18 months in used 500-liter French oak barrels. Here, they have quite a lot of Merenzao (or Trousseau) that, in this cooler year, seems to mark the wine quite a lot, with perfumed and elegant floral aromas. It’s ethereal and elegant, very fine-boned. This is more in line with the 2018 than the 2019, with the personality and perhaps a little more depth and complexity but still quite ethereal. Superb! They have closed the vineyards so they don’t get the wild boards that use to eat a lot of grapes; so in the future, there might be a little more wine. Only 593 bottles were filled in June 2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RP

All of the wines from 2021 have considerably less alcohol than the counterparts from 2020, reflecting the much cooler condition of the year. The 2021 Encrucijada has a moderate 12% alcohol and retained very good acidity. It’s perfumed and elegant; the plants are happier after being recovered from being abandoned, and the cool vintage lifted the wine up. It’s fresh, tightly wound, very tasty and fine, with elegant tannins. It has to be the most elegant and balanced vintage of Encrucijada so far. 1,700 bottles were filled in October 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RP

Juan António Ponce told me 2021 is one of those vintages when you realize in wine you never know everything... He thinks the 2021 Clos Lojen is the most complete vintage ever for this wine, with unusual freshness (despite "normal" parameters like a pH of 3.7 and five grams of acidity) and 12% alcohol. It’s intense and has varietal Bobal typicity with good weight. It fermented in 4,500-liter oak vats with 100% full clusters and indigenous yeasts and matured in 4,500-, 10,000- and 15,000-liter French oak vats for six months. This is sharp and austere, with lower alcohol and is more mineral than fruit-driven. Incredible value. 60,000 bottles produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThis is a bobal with clarity and silken length, even as its scent fills the head with purple grape skins and bergamot spice. Friendly, in search of a chill for a summer night, this is a by-the-case buy.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 90 W&S

The bread-and-butter wine here is the 2021 Bela, produced with Tempranillo from the village of Villalba de Duero (mentioned on the label), from sandy and clay rich soils on limestone mother rock that delivers powerful but not overripe wines with a short-ish élevage to achieve a fine-boned and fresh wine. The grapes were picked between October 1st and 25th, mostly Tempranillo but some 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot too, and it matured in French oak barrels for nine months. The wine has 14.3% alcohol, a pH of 3.57 and close to five grams of acidity, textbook parameters from the zone and textbook profile of classical Ribera; it’s ripe without excess, with very integrated oak and a velvety palate with silky tannins. It reminds me of the historical wines from the early 1990s, Valribeño and so on, with some rusticity but very honest and characterful. With time in the glass, it develops a precise note of licorice intermixed with berry fruit and some spices and herbs. They feel this is the wine they wanted to produce from the beginning; they consider it their best vintage to date irrespective of the style of the year, with 2019 more powerful, 2020 more elegant and this 2021 something in between. 85,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP

This is the fourth vintage of Sandra Bravo’s brilliant old-vine Garnacha from Rivas de Tereso and it’s every bit as good as its predecessors. Aged in 300-litre clay amphoras, it’s wonderfully perfumed and intense, with engaging bramble and red cherry fruit sweetness, tannins and a long, energetic palate. 2023-32Tim Atkin | 96 TA

The varietal white 2021 Garnacha Blanca, from one of their favorite vintages, was picked early to produce the fresh profile they like, with 12.9% alcohol, a pH of 3.15 and 6.55 grams of acidity. They used grapes from the village of Fitero to ferment the must in stainless with indigenous yeasts. The wine matured mostly in concrete, a 2,000-liter Stockinger foudre and five new 500-liter French oak barrels. It’s fresh, floral and elegant, with purity and balance, a spicy touch from the wood. It has a very tasty finish and even a salty twist, super fresh with lots of finesse. It has volume and freshness, the vibrancy from an early harvest and the contained ripeness and alcohol. This is the style they wanted for this wine and took the time to find it; it’s more Burgundian than Mediterranean, to me. It should age nicely in bottle. And a bargain. 19,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The 2021 Las Gravas contains grapes from a vineyard planted in 2006 (that already contributed to the 2020), and it has given the wine a fine-boned profile, with more freshness and varietal Monastrell notes, a rustic-elegant feeling. It keeps the incredible quality level of the 2020, with Jumilla typicity; it’s Mediterranean, powerful and energetic, with balanced 15% alcohol and a chalky, rocky, stony sensation in the finish. This always contains some 8% to 12% Garnacha. Production has grown to 37,905 (numbered) bottles. It was bottled in June 2023, as they did a longer élevage. This matured 100% in oak foudre; they abandoned the 500-liter barrels for this wine and for Pie Franco.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RP

The vino de paraje from A Serra in Dragonte 2021 Paixar is as good as ever, with the austerity of the slate slopes and the old vines that deliver low yields of concentrated and characterful grapes. It has a moderate 13.5% alcohol and a very fresh sensation on the palate beyond analysis. The vineyards are in the process to obtain organic certification. 6,500 bottles produced. This is one of the most elegant vintages for this wine.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPAs I have mentioned in the past, Paixar is Luna Beberide’s oldest vine cuvée, with these Mencía vines ranging from eighty-five to one hundred years of age! The vineyard is a south-facing hillside of weathered slate and the wine is now raised entirely in one wine casks during its élevage. The 2021 Paixar is a superb wine in the making, delivering a complex aromatic constellation of black raspberries, graphite, pomegranate, tree bark, grilled meats, a gorgeous base of slate minerality, espresso, woodsmoke and a touch of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very elegant on the attack, with a superb core of black fruit, impressive transparency and grip, ripe, fine-grained tannins and impeccable balance on the long, focused and complex finish. This is so well-balanced that it is not hard to drink today, but in reality, this is still a young wine and it is infanticide to even contemplate drinking it now, as there is so much more to unfold here with some extended cellaring. This may well be the finest young wine I have yet tasted from Luna Beberide, and I have been a fan of this fine Bierzo estate for a decade now! (Drink between 2031 - 2075)John Gilman | 95 JGA firm, medium-bodied red, with an herbaceous overtone of Mediterranean scrub and crushed pine accenting flavors of tangy blackberry and black plum as well as mineral and spice undertones. Fragrant on the fresh finish, with lingering floral herb and spice notes. Best from 2025 through 2033. 700 cases made, 175 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The white 2021 Cargol Treu Vi has notes of pollen and yellow fruit with some browning apples. It has contained ripeness and 12.4% alcohol with a very low pH and high-ish acidity but comes through as more evolved and somewhat riper than the phenomenal Principia Mathematica form this same vintage. It has pungent flavors and a medium-bodied palate, with some spice from aging in 300-liter barrels for 10 to 11 months. 2,100 bottles were filled in August 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The Tajinaste Blanco Seco is made from a cépages of ninety percent Listán Blanco and ten percent Albillo Criollo. The wine is fermented in tank and most of the cuvée is also aged in stainless steel, but about thirty percent of the blend is given three or four months of élevage in older oak casks. The 2022 version offers up a vibrant nose of lime, tart pear, green olive, lemongrass, salty minerality, raw almond and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and complex, with lovely depth at the core, fine mineral drive and grip, zesty acids and a long, well-balanced and classy finish. This is excellent juice. 2024-2040.     John Gilman | 93 JG

They kept separate the Godello that was blended before, and they liked it so much that they decided to bottle it and release it as 2022 X Godello. It was produced with grapes from a one-hectare plot from their vineyard O Taboleiro, which was planted in 2008 on granite sandy soils that keep the acidity. It has good ripeness and development of aromas and flavors, 13% alcohol and very good freshness (pH 3.1). I was very pleasantly surprised. The wine is elegant, serious and balanced, with austerity in the palate, very precise and detailed. 2,000 bottles were produced. It was bottled unoaked in May 2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

he 2023 Albariño Pazo de Señorans from Val do Salnés showcases intense aromas of orange blossom, herbs and grapefruit. The palate is dry, taut and textured with medium concentration expanding the fruit flavors. The 13% alcohol adds volume and definition. This complex and expressive Albariño offers excellent drinkability.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The 2022 Rioja Blanco bottling from Sandra Bravo’s Bodega Sierra de Toloño is composed entirely from Viura (albeit, with a bit of Tempranillo Blanco co-planted in the vineyard). Ten percent of the cuvée is raised in oak, with the remainder in stainless steel and the wine does not undergo malolactic fermentation. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a precise and complex mix of tart pear, lemon, salty soil tones, white flowers and just a whisper of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is bright, young and full-bodied, with lovely depth at the core, good soil signature, zesty acids and fine focus and balance on the long and nascently complex finish. This is quite tasty out of the blocks, but will gain in complexity with some time in the cellar. (Drink between 2023 - 2040)John Gilman | 91+ JG

The young unoaked Mencía, the eponymous 2022 Merayo is varietal and juicy, with notes of licorice, wild berries, flowers and herbs. It has a moderate 13.28% alcohol and a velvety mouthfeel. It’s from old vines and was fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts and kept in tank for two to three months. 85,000 bottles produced. It was bottled unoaked in March 2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPFresh, fragrant nose of red berries, sour cherries and some stemmy herbs. This is juicy and medium-bodied on the palate with a vibrant, crunchy feel to the simple red berry fruit. Juicy and easy finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 90 JS

The white 2023 Micalet comes from 2.4 hectares planted in 1948 at 730 to 750 meters in altitude on the slopes of the Penya Foradà on rocky white soils with a field blend of mainly Tortosí, Trepadell, Malvasía and Merseguera. Part of the vineyard is ungrafted, and those grapes are harvested earlier, with the rest coming in some 10 days later. The must fermented in concrete egg and oak barrels with indigenous yeasts, where it matured without racking for 10 months. This year has incredible freshness, reflected by a pH of 3.07 and 6.3 grams of acidity, tension and contained ripeness as shown by the 12.5% alcohol. It’s a white of precision and elegance; it’s crystalline, seamless, ethereal and nuanced, with purity and freshness. This is vibrant, sharp and austere, chalky, mineral and saline. A Mediterranean Roulot? 2,300 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2023,Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RP