Wine Ratings

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The Giacomo Fenocchio 2021 Bussia mesmerizes with its aromas of violet, botanical herb, forest berry, menthol and cake spice. Full-bodied and firmly structured, the utterly delicious palate boasts a great depth of flavors including juicy red cherry, raspberry preserve, cinnamon stick, crushed mint and star anise before a graphite finish, all set against a backbone of fine-grained tannins. Showing serious aging potential, it has bright acidity that also keeps it well balanced. Drink 2033–2051. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOFrom one of Barolo’s most revered sites comes a wine of quiet confidence. The limestone rich soils of Bussia create something profound in 2021. Fresh roses and dark cherries float up, then wild strawberries, fresh tobacco, and mountain herbs fill every corner. The structure feels perfectly calibrated, firm yet graceful. This is Barolo finding its future while honoring its past. A wine that makes you lean in closer with each sip. Drink from 2027 Wine Enthusiast | 98 WEThe 2021 Barolo Bussia is an absolute delight. Aromatic, graceful and light on its feet, the 2021 is pure seduction. Pine, mint, cloves, new leather, licorice, wild cherry and sage are some of the many notes that are laced together in this exquisite, haunting Barolo from Claudio Fenocchio.Vinous Media | 94 VMCherry, plum, orange peel, tomato leaf and eucalyptus notes strike a nice balance with the succulent texture and fine-grained tannins in this lean, savory red. Iron and tar accents emerge as this winds down on the mouthwatering finish. Best from 2030 through 2050. 2,100 cases made, 300 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSMoving to the 2021 Barolo Bussia, it pours a bright transparent red color and offers a pure aromatic profile with notes of cherry candies, preserved orange, amaro-like sweet herbs, and dried earth. The palate is also vibrant and transparent, with a bit more savory iron-richness lurking gently underneath on the finish, framing the otherwise more transparent ripe berried fruit that coaxes through the palate. It has ripe tannins and a bit more richness of texture on the finish that I anticipate will improve over the coming 10-15 years. Drink 2026-2038.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDLocated in the heart of Bussia, the Giacomo Fenocchio estate counts 5ha in the Sottana subzone. As with all the MGA bottlings, fermentation is spontaneous with indigenous yeasts, maceration is upwards of 40 days, and ageing is in large Slavonian oak casks. The 2021 has a flamboyant side, leading with roasted coffee, iron, grilled bay leaf and crushed allspice aromas. As animated as the nose is, the palate needs a bit more time to come together, however it is well packed with dense dark cherry and perfumed fennel. The tannins are chalky yet sweet, with a taut snap. I love the saline twist on the finish.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECBlackberries with sweet spices, as well as plums and a touch of cedar. The palate is medium- to full-bodied with polished yet firm tannins that stick to the palate. Lovely, juicy fruit profile. This should evolve nicely, but needs some time. Better from 2026.James Suckling | 94 JS

The 2021 Barolo Cannubi is another stellar Barolo in this range from Claudio Fenocchio. Aromatic and lifted, the 2021 is classic Cannubi. Bright acids cut through a core of sweet red-toned fruit, mint, orange peel, cinnamon and new leather. This chiseled, nuanced Barolo is a winner.Vinous Media | 95 VMA restrained Barolo with red currants, red cherries, bright violets and a balsamic touch on the nose. More elegant than powerful, it’s medium- to full-bodied with enjoyable thick yet ripe tannins, crisp acidity and cherry stones in the finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2027.James Suckling | 95 JSWhile based in Monforte d’Alba, the Fenocchio family has owned a small 0.5ha slice in Cannubi Boschis for over 50 years and it has been bottled separately since 1980. Striking scents are redolent of rhubarb compote, cherry bark, toasted hazelnut and warm, dusty earth. This is full, dense and even a bit chewy as supple fruit fuses with seemingly pliant tannins which build with dry, sandy texture, providing a firm, well defined frame. Citrussy acidity is direct and penetrating, with a thrillingly crisp finish. I wouldn’t touch it for at least a couple of years – Fenocchio’s wines age exceptionally well.Decanter Magazine | 94 DEC

Dark aromas of graphite, potpourri, smoke, bergamot and dried cherries. Firm tannins on the palate, with a full body, a dusty texture, refreshing acidity and a powerful finish. Extracted, meaty, concentrated and balanced for the long haul, with an amazing minty aftertaste. Try from 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Barolo Villero is laced with spice, new leather, herbs, menthol and licorice. It exudes depth, structure and classicism, with plenty of the balsamic inflections that are such signatures of Villero. I admire the wine’s virile intensity and overall power. This is a superb showing.Vinous Media | 96 VMMy top pick from this estate in 2021, the Villero bottling is crafted from 65-year-old vines. The southwest-facing plot is characterised by calcareous clay rich in iron, which typically gives solidly structured wines. The house’s confidently extracted style accentuates this but is so well honed that the wine remains in brilliant balance. It is as expressive as it is textured: entrancing aromas convey smoke, cinnamon, sarsaparilla and a burst of violet. While tight and vertical to begin with, a mouthful of stoniness makes way for a richness of dark fruit through the mid-palate, all hemmed in by sophisticated, grainy tannins while sappy acidity lends a cleansing quality.Decanter Magazine | 96 DEC