Wine Ratings

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Floral, non-fruity hints of crushed stone and talcum powder appear on the nose of Aubert’s 2021 Chardonnay Powder House, creating an attractive counterpoint to the wine’s honeyed richness and intense white-peach notes. Full-bodied and silky in feel, it’s a bit custardy in texture yet lithe, graceful and long, with an almost mentholated finish. There are 2,000 cases this vintage, from a Forestville vineyard planted in 2015 mainly to Hyde Old Wente, plus a bit of Mount Eden.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RPLove the aromas of lemon-lime, gunpowder, kiwi, and dried lemons. It’s full, phenolic and solid. This is like red wine in structure. Long and persistent. One for the cellar. Give this some time. Best after 2025.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Chardonnay Powder House is elegant, polished and also a touch reticent. That won’t be an issue in time, but the Powder House is decidedly reticent today. Strong mineral accents are front and center, while the fruit feels pushed into the background. Mark Aubert’s Chardonnays have historically aged quite well. I expect that will be the case here as well.Vinous Media | 94-96 VM

Pie crust with brioche, lemon meringue, lime leaf, and blackboard chalk. Very aromatic. Full-bodied, with terrific structure and incredibly complex on the finish with seaweed and umami. Sea breeze, iodine and oyster finish. Superb wine. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2021 Chardonnay UV-SL comes from largely Goldridge soils in parcels owned and managed by the Valdez family (UV being the initials of Ulises Valdez, Aubert’s frequent vineyard collaborator, who died in 2018). There are 2,000 cases of this elixir, which offers up classic notes of toasted hazelnuts, white peaches and citrus zest. It’s full-bodied, rich and opulent yet contained and controlled, with great silky length and energy. Aubert describes the oak thusly: "The oak is perfect. It just kisses you with a bit of vanilla and cookie dough." The wine is certainly delicious, and thinking back on it, I wonder if my rating is a bit conservative.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98 RPThe 2021 Chardonnay UV-SL Vineyard is one of the more exotic wines in the range. Initially a bit ethereal, the 2021 opens beautifully on the mid-palate and finish, where it shows tremendous breadth and notable mineral intensity. The UV-SL is not quite as obvious as some of the other wines in this range, but its pedigree is evident. There’s real density here, and tons of class.Vinous Media | 95-97 VM

Layered, elegant, vivid and mineral-driven, this full-bodied wine paints a distinct picture of one of Sonoma County’s oldest, most iconic chardonnay vineyards. Stone, kiwi and crisp apple notes fill the aromas, while light accents of butter and vanilla bean highlight the vibrant green apple and lime flavors. It expands on the palate and echoes for minutes in the finish. This wine is known to age well, so drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSElegant and precise, this crisp expression offers plenty to admire -- apple, lemon zest and Sumo orange notes, plus an aromatic punch of yuzu, orange blossoms and sweet grass. A quiet toasted brioche detail lingers in the background, as does a savory thread of freshly grated ginger and toasted green tea hints. Drink now through 2032. 774 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe 2021 Chardonnay Rochioli Vineyard is bright and focused, but also understated in feel. Sweet floral and citrus notes give the 2021 lovely aromatic presence to match the wine’s understated, mid-weight personality. Bright saline tones add energy and tension throughout. Lemon peel, white pepper and crushed rocks linger.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The 2021 Chardonnay Woolsey Road Vineyard is another dense, ample wine in this range. The Woolsey Road has a good deal of phenolic intensity. There’s real breadth and resonance here. Lemon confit, white pepper and dried herbs are nicely amplified.Vinous Media | 94 VMFragrant, focused and precise, offering flavors of lemongrass and lemon blossoms, with Meyer lemon and green papaya accents, plus a touch of tangerine. Shows green tea, lemon balm and white pepper notes on a mouthwatering frame, with a hint of salinity that lingers. Drink now. 787 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSRichness and concentration are the hallmarks of this full-bodied, mouth-filling wine. Deep in Bosc pears, baked apples and baking spices, it offers a creamy texture balanced by moderate acidity. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 93 JS

Very aromatic and friendly and cuddly with apple pie, oyster shell, caramel and candied lemon character on both the nose and palate. Medium to full body. Vibrant acidity makes this energetic and lively. Dried apple and pear as well as ripe apple and toasted bread with butter and cinnamon. Rock salt. Love this. One of the best Hyde Chardonnays I have tasted. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2021 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is singular and expressive! Saline, lime candy, chalk and lemongrass aromas are underpinned by a pleasurable smoky reduction, and as it spends time in the glass, it continues to blossom and gain aromatic intensity. The palate is ethereal, seamless and silky, with a deep core of candied citrus fruit and chalky nuances that define the very long, very powerful finish. This vibrant, characterful Hyde Chardonnay will be long-lived in the cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPA slightly bright yellow, the 2021 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard has very pretty aromatics of lime blossom, fresh pear, and saline, and like the other Chardonnays from Kistler, it has a savory element to it. Medium to full-bodied, with a more delicate and ethereal nature, its floral perfume coaxes throughout the palate, with melon rind, white peach, and a hint of salty earth. Delivering fresh acidity and purity, it has fantastic lift and a more Chablis-like texture, with a note of crushed rock on the finish. Drink it over the next 10 or more years.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThis inviting, stunning mix of power and elegance opens with an apple tart note, offering whiffs of smoke, salted caramel and peach preserves, plus a drizzle of wildflower honey, nougat and Greek yogurt. Dried, crystalized fruit notes join a touch of crunchy sea salt, adding tension to the fresh thread of acidity. Everything is wrapped up in a luxuriously silky and smooth texture, with an epic finish. Drink now through 2035. 900 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe 2021 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard gallops out with bold notes of crunchy pears, yellow apples, and lemongrass tea, followed by hints of baking bread, wet slate, and crushed rocks. The medium to full-bodied palate is tightly wound with impressive tension and loads of soft-spoken, mineral layers, finishing with a zesty lift.The Wine Independent | 96 TWIThe 2021 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is laced with the essence of tangerine oil, hazelnut, passionfruit, spice and lightly honeyed notes. All the exotic signature of Hyde come through loud and clear, but there’s tons of energy too. I especially like how this opens with time. This is beautifully done.Vinous Media | 95 VM

The 2021 Les Pavots is a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, 7% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot. It’s a beautiful wine you could drink now or stash in the cellar, with a concentrated, broody yet polished profile. It has pure scents of blueberry liqueur, lilac, cast iron, grilled meats and soy sauce plus hints of wild thyme and truffle. The full-bodied palate offers a structural balance of clay-textured tannins and bright acidity, deriving its power from its sheer depth of dark fruit, and it has a long, detailed finish. 2,769 cases were made, and the Les Pavots will be released in February of 2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe blackberry and sage character comes through clearly, with some orange blossoms, graphite, dried tomatoes, green tobacco and stone. A rich and juicy red with lots of berry and chocolate character, with a full body and layered rich tannins. It’s flavorful yet hemmed in with firm yet rounded tannins. Muscular. 62% cabernet sauvignon, 25% cabernet franc, 7% merlot, and 6% petit verdot. This needs four or five years to come together and show its true self. Best after 2028.James Suckling | 97 JS

The Ritchie Vineyard would be a grand cru if Sonoma was Burgundy, and Ramey offers one of the best renditions of it. Gorgeous, vibrant fruit melds with a pronounced minerality. There are stony and spicy nuances on a great structure of racy acidity. No hurry to drink this wine; it will gain even more complexity and layers with time. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2021 Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard is fabulous. A Chardonnay of stature and textural finesse, the 2021 is super-expressive right out of the gate. There’s gorgeous oiliness and nuance here. Ritchie is one of the great sites in the Russian River Valley. Vibrant mineral notes play off the wine’s notable richness. This is a fine example.Vinous Media | 94 VMThere’s good energy to the lemon sherbet, pear, lime zest and pineapple flavors at the core of this sleek, vibrant white, offering notes of white flowers, dried ginger and vetiver, plus a mouthwatering thread of saline and lemongrass on the long, expansive finish. Drink now through 2033. 455 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSDavid Ramey’s 2021 Chardonnay from the Ritchie Vineyard is made from some of the oldest chardonnay vines in California, as these were planted all the way back in 1972, with most of the vines being Wente clones. The wine is fermented with native yeasts and aged in twenty percent new oak for its twenty months of élevage, prior to bottling without filtration. The bouquet is deep, complex and classy, offering up scents of pear, golden delicious apple, hazelnut, complex minerality, gently musky floral tones, orange zest and a refined foundation of buttery oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, focused and complex, with superb depth at the core, lovely soil inflection, a bright girdle of acidity and a long, poised and beautifully balanced finish. This is outstanding chardonnay! (Drink between 2024 - 2040)John Gilman | 93+ JG

Very intense blue fruits with blackberries and hints of licorice. Flowers, too. Some pepper. Full-bodied with lots of bark, mushroom and forest floor. Creamy and polished tannins. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Pinot Noir UV Vineyard is bright, punchy and super-expressive. Bright red/plum, blood orange, rose petal, lavender, spice and strong floral/savory accents add nuance throughout. The 2021 is an absolute joy to taste. The UV was done with entirely destemmed fruit, but its aromatic profile offers quite a bit of whole cluster-like character.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 2021 Pinot Noir UV was bottled in mid-July 2022. Medium to deep ruby-purple colored, it comes bounding out with youthful scents of black cherries, black raspberries, and wild strawberries, plus suggestions of violets, chocolate mint, wild sage, and fragrant earth. The full-bodied palate is fantastically light on its feet, with beautiful freshness and ripe, fine-grained tannins, finishing long and savory. Planted to the Calera clone in 2001 by late vineyard manager Ulises Valdez Sr., right in the middle of Russian River, the soil on this site is a unique mix of sand and dense clay.The Wine Independent | 96 TWIGorgeous, with an inviting core of raspberry, blood orange and boysenberry puree aromas and flavors that stream through, flanked by singed apple wood, dried anise and black tea notes. Shows serious depth but also drive and freshness, as a racy mineral edge lends energy from start to finish. Best from 2024 through 2033. 949 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSFrom a vineyard named for Aubert’s frequent collaborator, Ulises Valdez, and still farmed by his family, the 2021 Pinot Noir UV Vineyard (1,000 cases produced, from a Laguna Road site that’s slightly warmer than Aubert’s other Pinot Noir sources) features bold notes of cherries, cinnamon and wood spice. It’s medium to full-bodied and silky across the mid-palate, finishing long and softly tannic. Nicely balanced and structured, it should age well for more than a decade.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RP

A fantastic chardonnay with super phenolic tension and purity of fruit with sliced apple and spiced pear. Reductive and tight. It’s full-bodied, but so reserved and structured with great phenolic tension that is polished and endless. Needs time to open and show you its greatness. Try after 2026.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2021 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is scented of warm peaches, pie crust and spice with singular touches of white pepper and chamomile tea. The medium-bodied palate is incredibly powerful, featuring a satiny, mouth-coating texture balanced by vibrant acidity, a concentrated core of peachy fruit and an epically long, flavorful finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPFrom the Moon Mountain AVA, the 2021 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is a bright golden hue and reveals aromas of smoky earth, cardamom, and fresh flowers. Full-bodied, with a lot of power behind it, it’s rich with concentration and structure and offers iron-rich earth, ripe pear, and more savory richness on the finish as well as a bit of almond and frangipane.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2021 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard skips out of the glass with bright, cheery notes of fresh yellow apples, lemongrass, and lime leaves, giving way to wafts of struck flint, marzipan, and pie crust with a touch of ginger. The medium to full-bodied palate offers vibrant citrus and chalky layers, with a lively line and long, savory finish.The Wine Independent | 97 TWIThe 2021 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is a wine of grace and class. Time in the glass brings out hints of ginger, dried flowers and spice that lend an exotic flair. I would cellar this for a year or two, as the wine’s structural elements are front and center at this stage. There’s gorgeous aromatic presence that begins to emerge over time.Vinous Media | 96 VMShows a distinct savory thread, with dried lemon verbena, sage and tarragon overtones. A sesame seed detail complements the apple, pear and citrus flavors at the core. This gains momentum on the finish, where a honeycomb note and spice accents reveal themselves. Drink now. 900 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS