Wine Varietals

wines

Aromas of sandalwood, dried flowers, black cherries and lavender follow through to a medium body with firm and silky tannins and a firm and crunchy finish. Needs three or four years to soften and come together, but the quality of the fine tannins is very impressive. Best after 2028.James Suckling | 96 JSCrushed ashen stones and dusty sage combine with rose petals and dried black cherries as the 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Mulino evolves in the glass. It splashes across the palate with mineral-infused wild berry fruits over a wave of soft textures as violet inner florals and cooling lavender tones accumulate toward the close. The 2021 is giving yet refined, leaving a tart blackberry concentration framed by sweet tannins and crisp minerality as hints of licorice fade. This is a more forward vintage for Mulino but with an energy that I find truly seductive.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Aromas of forest floor, ripe woodland berry, cedar and lavender come to the forefront on the beautiful 2021 Brunello from Armilla. Elegantly structured and savory, the vibrant palate offers crushed Morello cherry, wild strawberry, star anise, rosemary and a hint of truffle accompanied by taut, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2030–2041. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOThe Armilla 2021 Brunello di Montalcino reflects the character of the vintage with good freshness, dark fruit nuances and notes of pressed flowers. It offers solid intensity—measured, but not shy—and moves across the palate with medium fruit weight, concluding with a short, somewhat lean finish. Produced from organically farmed (but not certified) vineyards in the southern part of the appellation, Armilla’s Brunello typically emphasizes purity and approachability over power. This is a lighter, more informal style of Brunello, albeit with a Brunello price tag. Production is 10,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is darkly floral, with a hint of crushed rocks and dried herbs giving way to subtle strawberry nuances. It is wonderfully fresh and lifted, with a core of brisk acidity and juicy wild berry fruits. Edgy tannins and inner florals resonate as the 2021 tapers off long but lifted.Vinous Media | 92 VMModern style here, with lush plums and black cherries, violets and licorice. Medium-bodied with crisp acidity and firm, chalky yet tight tannins. Bitter finish. Try from 2027.James Suckling | 91 JS

Remarkably pure and fresh. Pristine black cherry and blackberry, layered with beautiful violet aromas. Everything builds with precision and focus, supported by gorgeously firm, taut, mineral-rich tannins that bring energy and drive. The wine is compact and tightly wound at this youthful stage, its intensity truly emblematic of the vintage. Drink: 2026-2060.Decanter Magazine | 99 DECRipe, fresh and focused, with a lovely beam of red currant plum coulis that stretches out alongside hints of savory, violet, tobacco and singed cedar. Finishes with a late twang of iron. Nicely done. Drink now through 2038.Wine Spectator | 94 WSDark fruit aromas of blackberries, bitter chocolate, dried herbs, blackcurrants, black olives and graphite. The palate is full-bodied with a textural, rounded mouthfeel and finely integrated tannins, leading to a savory, fruit-driven finish. Delicious. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSHeitz is on a later release schedule than most other Napa producers, so the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon was the current release when I tasted with Lawrence Wine Estates CEO Carlton McCoy in August 2025. It’s a classically proportioned wine, with cedar, vanilla and black cherries all delivered via a medium- to full-bodied palate. It shows excellent structure for an entry-level wine, firm but approachable, with a lengthy finish. It should be a steakhouse staple, and while not inexpensive, it is a solid effort for the price.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley) is fabulous. Plump and vibrant, with good up-front fruit and bright acids, the 2021 captures the essence of modern classicism that is typical of the Heitz wines today. This is a superb entry-level offering from Heitz. Floral overtones brighten the finish.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The stunning Le Chiuse 2021 Brunello shows great intensity and structure as well as the elegant restraint the estate is known for. It opens with aromas of ripe plum, wild berry, forest floor, dark spice and blue flower as well as a camphor note. Vibrant, full-bodied and delicious, the palate delivers ripe Marasca cherry, crushed black raspberry, licorice and fine tobacco blend lifted by fresh acidity. Taut, well-integrated tannins provide polished support. Drink 2031–2046. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOThe Le Chiuse 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is a lovely wine and one of my favorites from a vintage that is not always easy to read. It delivers its message clearly with dark fruit, blue flower, grilled herb and sweet cedar, showing a sense of fullness and aromatic completeness that is not always present in this year. Soft and silky on the palate, the wine offers gentle, powdery tannins supported by good underlying structure, achieving balance without force. Sourced as a special selection from eight hectares of organically farmed vineyards with cool exposures, this bottling demonstrates how site and restraint can successfully interpret variety and vintage. Production is 19,800 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPTwo barrel samples of the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino were tasted – the first from more elegant sandstone soils and the second from the more robustly profiled site with clay soils. The first boasts pretty citrus notes of orange and a refined feel throughout. It’s very pretty and also floral and floats on the palate. The second, from the clay soil, is deeper and has more robust tannins, with a darker feel and hints of tea on the finish. I’m looking forward to the blend when it comes together, and I think this is going to be a very good vintage for the estate.Jeb Dunnuck | 96-98 JDThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino opens in the glass with a youthful blend of dried flowers, underbrush, crushed rocks and dried black cherries. It is surprisingly round and soothing to the senses, with waves of pure silk and red berry fruits elevated by a core of vibrant acidity. Minerality comes through in the finish, crunchy and long, as sweet tannins frame the experience remarkably well. This is a gorgeous interpretation of the vintage, yet patience is required.Vinous Media | 95 VMAromas of red cherries, stones and herbs like lavender. Medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit and firm, nervy tannins complemented by precise acidity. Lots of tension and definition. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JS

A restrained wine with a graceful nose of subtle red cherries, wild strawberries, sweet violets and complex earth and tamarind. Full-bodied with licorice flavors, a dense mid-palate and velvety tannins that are powerful yet ripe. Slightly lifted acidity and a long,chewy finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2027.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino wafts up with heavenly perfumes as geraniums, bergamot and rose petals mix with lavender and exotic spice. It is lifted and sleek with cool-toned acidity and tart red and blue fruits flowing beneath an air of violet inner florals. The finish has saturating tension, mixing fine-grained tannins with graphite mineral tones and citrus, while hints of sour cherry pinch at the cheeks.Vinous Media | 94 VMPackaged with a gold label, the Pieve Santa Restituta 2021 Brunello di Montalcino marks the return of a wine I personally have not seen in years. In truth, this wine has been produced since 2005, the year the Gaja family acquired a vineyard in the Torrenieri area in the northern part of the appellation where clay-rich soils with high water retention create powerful wines with softer acidity. Fruit from that vineyard was blended with grapes from the Rennina and Sugarille vineyards. However, this wine has recently seen the inclusion of fruit from two new plots, Bolsignano and Villa a Tolli, that bring acidity freshness and mineral tension. The wine presents a medium- to full-bodied texture with notes of dried fruit, cassis, tarry smoke and savory leather. It is lean on the mid-palate yet long and polished. Tight-edged tannins suggest the need for additional bottle aging, a profile consistent with a traditionally structured Brunello. This is a release of 90,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

A complex and minerally wine with aromas of crushed stones, graphite, red cherries, licorice, dried flowers and aromatic herbs. Full-bodied, tense and crisp on the palate, with firm, velvety tannins and a juicy, chalky yet ripe finish with fruity and gamy flavors. Best from 2028.James Suckling | 96 JSThe Pieve Santa Restituta 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina delivers power and a full-bodied style shaped by a warm vintage and carefully calibrated oak aging under the Gaja family’s expert hand. It shows notable volume and texture, with an open-knit feel that reveals black fruit and spice on the close. Tightly wound at present, it requires more time to age and fully integrate its elements. This is a production of 14,400 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina boasts a dark ruby hue and a bouquet of crushed blackberries, dusty sage, talc, nuances of mint and orange zest. It’s racy with bright acidity and crisp wild berry fruits that slowly saturate the senses, further enhanced by an array of grippy tannins. This Brunello finishes with excellent length and heroic structure, leaving a cascade of inner florals and subtle licorice twang.Vinous Media | 95 VMCurrently resting in concrete, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino Renina is a jeweled ruby hue and offers aromatics that are compact and pure with liqueur of red cherries. It’s more consistent on the palate, with ripe tannins, seamless acidity, crystalline freshness, and a very even and long finish, but it’s not lacking for ripeness. I predict this will be a very successful vintage for this wine, which is more similar to 2019 in terms of its more noble structure.Jeb Dunnuck | 95-97 JD

A sleek and graceful wine with aromas of Parma violets, licorice, red fruit and a touch of mint. Full-bodied, it shows elegant tannins with freshness and well-tamed power. Amazing length, with a polished cherry pit aftertaste. Drinkable now, but intended for aging. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSA layered and complex expression, the Pieve Santa Restituta 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille combines dark fruit and oak with a deep plummy core accented by delicate hints of exotic spice. A precise mineral line runs through the wine and leads to fine, powdery tannins. The overall profile remains tightly wound at this young stage and will benefit from time to settle into a more integrated and complete expression. Sugarille is known to make wines with a subtle sweet-edged richness and supple yet structured tannins, shaped by soils rich in galestro and white clay that lend both age-worthy structure and mineral complexity. Production totals 9,500 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille bursts from the glass with masses of thyme, incense, rosemary and cedar before giving way to dried strawberries. It presents a subtle inner sweetness and elegant texture, coming across as weighty yet refined, with polished red berry fruits swirling throughout and leaving a bitter licorice tinge to linger on the palate. A complex web of fine-grained tannins flexes on the palate as a tart wild berry saturation lingers incredibly long. The 2021 is youthfully dense and tightly wound today, with the balance for a long and glorious evolution.Vinous Media | 96+ VMThe 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino Sugarille was also resting in concrete when I tasted it in November of 2024. (The blend was completed in July.) It displays a darker red color and is deeper and more layered on the nose, with darker cherry fruit liqueur, sappy herbs, and fresh earth. It’s juicy and ripe at this early stage, with very nice balance, ripe tannins, a full, rounded feel, and a deeper mineral richness.Jeb Dunnuck | 95-97 JD

A blend of fruit from three MGA sites (Bricco Chiesa, Capalot and Fiasco), the Oddero 2021 Barolo reveals cassis and dried cherry, but it also shows extra spice and smoke at the back. You get mineral nuances over a well-structured and firm Nebbiolo. This wine requires a little extra time before it fully opens. Once it does, it offers a beautiful mouthfeel with zesty freshness, minerality and lots of energy. It undergoes a spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel, and the wine ages in botte grande for 24 months. Production is 48,000 bottles, and the wine is priced competitively.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPVery floral, this Barolo shows aromas of rose petals with wild-strawberry and cedar undertones. Medium-bodied, sleek and elegant with precise, enveloping tannins that will require a couple of years to mellow. Very promising, this will benefit from at least 3 years of bottle age. Best from 2028.James Suckling | 94 JSEvocatively scented with wild red berries and touches of vanillin and spice. An underlying dark earthiness pervades throughout. Fine tannins increase steadily across the palate, as does a richness of raspberry fruit. But all is in harmony. Hints of tea, then a huge hit of citrus lead to the savoury, mouth-cleansing finish. While rooted in the village of La Morra, the Oddero estate boasts impressive vineyard holdings throughout the entirety of the denomination, making for an impressive range of Barolo. The ‘classic’ bottling incorporates younger vines, mostly from sites in La Morra as well as Bricco Fiasco in Castiglione Falletto. Gorgeously approachable now but will keep evolving.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECThe 2021 Barolo is fabulous. Aromatic, pliant and wonderfully inviting. Oddero’s Barolo shows just how appealing this vintage is. Crushed flowers, red/blue-toned fruit, spice and perfumed notes build nicely in the glass. Polished, silky tannins wrap it all together in style. Vineyard sources are Bricco Chiesa, Capalot, Bricco Fiasco and a bit of Galina.Vinous Media | 92 VMRed berry, camphor and rose aromas take shape in the glass on the 2021 straight Barolo from Oddero along with dark spice. Lithe and linear, the palate starts off with sour cherry, bitter orange, and star anise before close-grained tannins jump in and leave a firm, rather austere bitter almond finish. Give the tannins a few more years to unwind then drink to capture the fruit richness. Drink 2029–2036. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 92 KO

The drop-dead gorgeous Gianni Brunelli stopped me in my tracks with its stunning fragrance of freshly picked violet, iris, forest berry, leather and eucalyptus. All about extreme elegance, the palate is equally captivating, delivering layers of succulent Morello cherry, wild raspberry, blood orange, dark spice and crushed mint. Taut, ultra-refined tannins provide seamless support while fresh acidity keeps it vibrant and impeccably balanced. While it’s already incredibly tempting, it also promises years of graceful aging. Hats off to Laura Brunelli and her team. Drink 2029–2039. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 100 KOA polished and finely detailed expression, the Gianni Brunelli Le Chiuse di Sotto 2021 Brunello di Montalcino showcases tension and subtle sweetness carried across a taut, silky palate with beautifully textured tannins. Dusty mineral notes add definition and lift, while the overall impression remains ethereal and weightless, a hallmark of the estate’s precision with Sangiovese in this classic vintage. The wine balances finesse and structure with remarkable poise. Production totals 15,715 bottles, including 180 magnums and other larger formats.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPDried flowers mix with crushed rocks, grilled herbs and spiced orange peels as the darkly alluring 2021 Brunello di Montalcino smolders up from the glass. The wine is polished in feel, silken and serene with a harmonious mix of tantalizing acidity, minerals and ripe red and black fruits. While tannic, the tannins are round and refined, leaving a classically dry sensation as hints of licorice and cedary spice fade.Vinous Media | 95 VMSlightly earthy, almost tarry nose of deep red and dark fruit and hints of chocolate and spices. The palate shows balance and poise, with a medium to full body, very fine tannins and vivid acidity. Smooth and well integrated, with a lingering, lightly savory finish. Better from 2028.James Suckling | 94 JS

Lavender, eucalyptus, underbrush and dark spice aromas form the nose on the lovely Camigliano 2021 straight Brunello. Taut and full-bodied, the elegantly structured palate features ripe red cherry, wild strawberry, licorice and orange zest accompanied by a backbone of velvety tannins. It’s nicely balanced, with fresh acidity. Drink 2028–2036. Abv: 14.5 % Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a bouquet of crushed strawberries and cherries, complicated by cedary spices and nuances of blood orange. It shows the weight and pliancy of its southern roots, with depths of mineral-inflected red berry fruits and mulling spices. The wine tapers off with medium length, gentle structure and a subtle cranberry tinge that pinches at the cheeks.Vinous Media | 93 VMThis has a savory character of cured meat, iron and wet stones, with spices and red berries in the background. The medium- to full-bodied palate is sleek and smoothly integrated, with well-defined yet supple tannins and a fleshy core of red fruit. Bright and juicy. From organically grown grapes. Better from 2027.James Suckling | 93 JSThe Camigliano 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is a certified organic wine that opens with ripe blackberry and blackcurrant followed by an oak-driven tarry and smoky note that adds weight to the bouquet. The aromatic profile is robust and persistent with a clear emphasis on dark fruit grown on the estate’s warmer southwestern exposures, and the palate closes with a hint of sweetness, soft tannins and a fundamentally velvety mouthfeel, making this an immediately approachable Brunello.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPIn Montalcino’s balmy western extreme, Camigliano was among those significantly hit by frost in 2021. The estate lost up to 90% in its lowest parcels, 30% in the rest. Ripeness and concentration are palpable in this hedonistic offering, yet it avoids jamminess as fruit purity is kept intact. Leather, vanilla and rust permeate the wild red berry core, while soft, plush tannins give luxurious layers that are stratified by sweet acidity. A generous and immediate Brunello with legs and stuffing for the next decade.Decanter Magazine | 91 DEC

Crushed blackberries mix with sweet lavender and mentholated cherries as the sensual 2021 Brunello di Montalcino evolves in the glass. It is cooling to the senses with a lifted array of ripe plums and strawberries elevated by an herbal tea infusion. Youthfully structured and linear today, it has a balance for cellaring, as a pleasantly tart tinge lingers long.Vinous Media | 93 VMAromas of violet, ripe dark-skinned berry, dark spice and wild herb form the inviting nose on the lovely 2021 Brunello from La Poderina. Juicy and polished, the palate offers ripe black cherry, raspberry and licorice set against taut, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2028–2036. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KODriven by dark fruit and spice, the La Poderina 2021 Brunello di Montalcino carries a high-octane profile with sweet tannins and a clearly felt 15% alcohol that shapes the wine’s overall impression. There is a softer side on the palate with ripe plum fruit and an opulent, approachable texture, though the style remains fairly one-dimensional, favoring immediacy over depth in this warm-vintage expression. Aging follows a regime of 24 months in oak followed by 20 months in stainless steel, with fruit drawn from 12.5 hectares of vineyards. Production totals 67,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPToasty and fruity wine with assertive, leafy aromas blended into the red cherries and raspberries. Light- to medium-bodied with crisp acidity and firm, chalky tannins that are nicely poised, but turn dry on the finish. Try from 2027.James Suckling | 92 JS

Fragrant blue flower, fine tobacco blend, plum and eucalyptus are some of the beguiling aromas you’ll find on the compelling Franco Pacenti 2021 Brunello. The palate is equally captivating and utterly delicious, delivering spiced plum, succulent Marasca cherry, star anise and cake spice before closing on a spiced orange zest note. Tightly-knit, velvety tannins provide support while fresh acidity lends great energy. Drink 2031–2041. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOA restrained and elegantly spicy wine with aromas of Earl Grey tea, potpourri, red cherries, red currants and stony minerality. Graceful on the palate, with ripe, velvety tannins, crisp and juicy integrated acidity, a full body and a long, savory finish. Best from 2028.James Suckling | 96 JSClassic to the core, the 2021 Brunello di Montalcino mixes crushed black cherries and strawberries with dusty roses, violets and a cascade of autumnal spice to form its gorgeous bouquet. It displays textures of pure silk and polished red berry fruits, all perfectly supported by cooling acidity. A web of fine tannins frames the finish as hints of clove and tart woodland berries fade. The 2021 is remarkably pretty and refined and balanced for the cellar.Vinous Media | 95 VMSince taking over the winemaking helm in 2015, Lorenzo Pacenti has aimed to exalt the fresh character of the Canalicchio zone. He has lowered fermentation temperatures, adopted gentler extraction techniques, shortened macerations and reduced time in wood. The 2021 reveals itself slowly with inklings of tobacco, forest floor and mushroom, and savoury nuances repeat on the midweight palate. Though not large, tannins are quite boisterous and need to settle. Mellowed fruit is enlivened by a jolt of orange and a crisp acid bite.Decanter Magazine | 91 DEC

The medium ruby-colored 2021 Pinot Noir Victoria opens up in the glass to expressive layers of framboise, candied roses, dusty earth, and fresh pine needles. Medium-bodied and elegant, it has fine tannins and a weightless feel, with fresh saline, mouthwatering finish with a mineral-toned lift. It has a hauntingly long finish and is reminiscent of what Nebbiolo can achieve. Drinking well right now, it should also do well over the next 8- 10 years. 210 cases produced.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe 2021 Pinot Noir Estate Victoria opens slowly in the glass, with suggestions of sage and rosemary complementing rose-tinged cherries. It sweeps across the palate with pretty red berries offset by hints of sour citrus as inner florals cascade throughout. The 2021 leaves a staining of primary concentration and dusty tannins, finishing long yet fresh with a gentle tug of fine tannins.Vinous Media | 93 VMElegance meets intensity in this Pinot, which offers expressive raspberry and pomegranate flavors accented by savory tea and river stones. Builds richness toward medium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2032. 1,210 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA medium-bodied, well-rounded red with notes of strawberries, wild currants and crushed peppercorns. Supple yet vivid, with bright fruit and crisp acidity. The finish is succulent and in control. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 92 JS

Restrained aromas of red cherries, raspberries, dried flowers, licorice, prunes and tobacco. Full-bodied, juicy and savory, it shows a very tasty palate with velvety tannins and a chalky, refreshing finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2028.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is expressive in the glass, with notes of crushed black cherries, sage, mint, cedar shavings and white smoke forming its inviting bouquet. It soothes the senses with silken textures and cool-toned acidity, as ripe plums and wild berries sweep across the palate. Edgy tannins envelop the palate with youthful poise. The 2021 finishes long and spicy, leaving a pleasantly bitter tinge to linger.Vinous Media | 93 VMFramed by an earthy, dusty mineral tone, the Mocali 2021 Brunello di Montalcino delivers pressed blackberry and plum followed by spice and spent ember in a bold, upfront style. A hint of sweetness on the palate softens the texture and keeps the tannins accessible, though the wine ultimately feels fairly one-dimensional on the close. Aging takes place over two years in French oak botte followed by one year in large Slavonian oak casks, an élevage that clearly defines the estate’s stylistic imprint. Production totals 50,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino is a youthful ruby red color and is expressive and nicely layered on opening, leading with aromas of cedar, toasted baking spice, redcurrants, orange peel, menthol, and cranberries. Zesty and refreshing, this medium-bodied Brunello has fine tannins, bright acidity, and notes of dusty earth on the finish. Drink 2026-2035.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JDIn Montalcino’s southwest, Mocali’s vineyards reach 400m above sea level on limestone-rich marls. The 2021 exudes its Mediterranean landscape with pine, strawberry bush and sundried tomato – hints of soy and vanilla add further nuance. Mouthfilling though not heavy, lush plum is swathed in soft, clayey tannins. Above all, the palate impresses with savoury, saline mineral appeal. Balanced and mellowed without lacking vibrancy, it will please upon release.Decanter Magazine | 92 DEC

Nuances of crushed rocks, menthol and citrus-infused blackberries waft up as the 2021 Brunello di Montalcino evolves in the glass. It is harmonious throughout, lifted yet silky in texture, with a wave of ripe red and black fruits alongside brisk acidity. Crunchy mineral tones add depth toward the minty-fresh close. The 2021 finishes staining and full of youthful tension.Vinous Media | 95+ VMShowing structure and depth, the Voliero 2021 Brunello di Montalcino reflects the balance and power of the vintage with young, firm tannins framing dark fruit flavors of blackcurrant, plum and toasted spice. The tannins are assertive at this stage and will need time to integrate, rewarding patience in the cellar. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts and uses dry ice to preserve freshness, followed by 30 months of aging in oak vessels of various sizes, a regimen that underscores varietal character. Production totals 9,300 bottles plus larger formats.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPDisplaying a medium red hue, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino is expressive on opening, with a brightly spiced nose of dried orange peel, cranberries, redcurrants, dried earth, cinnamon, and clove. The palate is medium-bodied and elegant, with refined tannins, refreshing acidity, and a chalky texture that feels a touch understated at this early stage. On a second tasting, it showed fabulous length, balance, and focus, and it should only get better with another 6-12 months in bottle before drinking beautifully over the coming 12-15 years. Drink 2026-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDA classic and spicy wine with aromas of licorice, smoky wood, wild strawberries and red cherries. Full-bodied and crisp, with firm, chalky tannins, savory dried cherry flavors and a tight yet ripe finish. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSAromas of forest floor, ripe black plum, blue flower and a whiff of resin form the nose on the Voliero 2021 Brunello. On the full-bodied palate, velvety tannins envelop succulent black cherry, bitter orange and tobacco. You’ll also notice the warmth of alcohol on the finish. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KO

From the upper part. More sensual perfume here despite the altitude. Fuller white fruit with salinity, tis sufficiently ripe but with a fresh edge. Quite nuanced at the back and with good persistence. Drink from 2025-2030.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JM

The white 2021 Cargol Treu Vi has notes of pollen and yellow fruit with some browning apples. It has contained ripeness and 12.4% alcohol with a very low pH and high-ish acidity but comes through as more evolved and somewhat riper than the phenomenal Principia Mathematica form this same vintage. It has pungent flavors and a medium-bodied palate, with some spice from aging in 300-liter barrels for 10 to 11 months. 2,100 bottles were filled in August 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

Pale colour. A light and elegant nose, some marine notes behind, gentle but showing well, with a little more volume behind, a wave of white fruit and an attractively nuanced finish. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Jul 2023.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

The 2021 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru, 80% aged in oak, has a delightful bouquet with orchard fruit, lemon verbena and orange pith scents that burst from the glass. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, quite precise with a welcome touch of bitter lemon that keeps the finish on edge. Not a long-term Bougros perhaps, but finely crafted. Tasted blind at the BIVB tasting in Chablis.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The bread-and-butter wine here is the 2021 Bela, produced with Tempranillo from the village of Villalba de Duero (mentioned on the label), from sandy and clay rich soils on limestone mother rock that delivers powerful but not overripe wines with a short-ish élevage to achieve a fine-boned and fresh wine. The grapes were picked between October 1st and 25th, mostly Tempranillo but some 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot too, and it matured in French oak barrels for nine months. The wine has 14.3% alcohol, a pH of 3.57 and close to five grams of acidity, textbook parameters from the zone and textbook profile of classical Ribera; it’s ripe without excess, with very integrated oak and a velvety palate with silky tannins. It reminds me of the historical wines from the early 1990s, Valribeño and so on, with some rusticity but very honest and characterful. With time in the glass, it develops a precise note of licorice intermixed with berry fruit and some spices and herbs. They feel this is the wine they wanted to produce from the beginning; they consider it their best vintage to date irrespective of the style of the year, with 2019 more powerful, 2020 more elegant and this 2021 something in between. 85,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP

This delightful white from a single lieu-dit in Rully is a marvelous example of the solid quality possible in the Côte Chalonnaise. It boasts ripe apple and linden flower aromas with a hint of butter and spice. The fresh acidity feels fairly chiseled, yet there is enough extract to give the wine a rich texture and lingering finish. Chartron farms three hectares here on the border with Mercurey; the grapes are pressed as whole clusters and run into cask (10% new) for fermentation.Decanter | 91 DEC