Wine Varietals

wines

The iodine, blackberry and rose-stem character comes through clearly. Plenty of fruit and depth. Medium-bodied with fine tannins that caress the palate and provide endless flavors of Indian spices, flint, nutmeg and light crust. Such refinement and integrity. Drinkable now, but better in three or four years.James Suckling | 98 JSLovely cherry fruit with hints of lavender and rosemary. The texture is silky and dense, almost fat. There is more clay here, and less limestone than in Les Cras, and the tannic structure is not as firm. The grapes are from Drouhin’s massive 6.75ha here, not far from Pommard; they are partially destemmed and fermented on native yeasts before ageing in cask (25% new) for 14–18 months.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECThe 2023 Clos des Mouches Rouge seems just a touch riper in personality than the les Cras this year, thus having just a bit more mid-palate amplitude of sappy black fruit and just a bit more length on the lovely finish. The bouquet is excellent, offering up notes of black plums, black cherries, coffee bean, woodsmoke, gamebird, dark soil tones, a hint of graphite and cedary oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and very sappy at the core, with a good foundation of soil tones, ripe, buried tannins, lovely focus and grip and a long, nascently complex and very promising finish. (Drink between 2036 - 2080)John Gilman | 93+ JGThe 2023 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches (Domaine) is showing nicely, bursting with aromas of sweet berries, spices, orange zest and new oak. Medium to full-bodied, succulent and lively, with chalky grip on the finish, it will offer a broad drinking window.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPThe 2023 Beaune Clos des Mouches Rouge 1er Cru comes from 35 separate plots with different geology. It’s comprised of ten different lots picked over a week. This opens with dark chocolate and white pepper scents. It has slightly darker fruit on the nose and is a little more introspective at first. The palate is medium-bodied and quite sapid with a firm structure on the entry and a touch of licorice on the finish. This should be very fine once in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMDeep purple, with a fresh energy. Intense fresh dark raspberry, with just the right structure, tannins present but refined, adequate acidity, a touch of velvet and very persistent. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Nov 2024.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMAn exuberantly floral nose presents ripe aromas of spice, black cherry and a top note of kirsch. The notably finer, though not denser, middle weight flavors are shaped by remarkably fine-grained tannins on the lightly stony bitter pit fruit-inflected finale. This balanced effort could use more depth so at least a few years of cellaring should prove beneficial.Burghound | 90-92 BH

A tiny vineyard of one hectare delivers this firm, medium-bodied red with racy tannins, dark chocolate, iodine and dried strawberries. Creamy and chewy at the same time. Juicy as well. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JS

So pretty, charming and elegant, with floral aromas, light tannins and quiet vibrancy. Fresh raspberries, sour cherries, red cherries, rose petals and minerals give it complexity and appeal. Finesse, nerve and great balance. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSA bright red color, the 2023 Pinot Noir Roserock Zephirine offers focused and expressive notes of wild raspberries, framboise, rosy perfume, and sweet herbs. Medium-bodied, it has ripe tannins and an approachable feel, with its underlying mineral focus shining through the midpalate and finish. It’s delicious now but will only improve over the next 6-7 years and drink well over the coming 15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe 2023 Pinot Noir Zéphirine wafts up with an understated blend of dried flowers, spiced citrus and wild strawberries. A stern mineral core and brisk acidity enliven the tart wild berry fruits. Youthful tension pinches at the cheeks, leaving angular tannins and admirable freshness.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Once again, I found the 2023 Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard to be a centerpiece of the Tyler portfolio, offering up a dramatically richer and more saturated frame than its counterparts in the lineup, while sacrificing no clarity or complexity. The nose is strikingly dark, floral and pure, with clear-cut graphite and cola notes that are often common to larger-scale Pinot Noirs yet rendered here with poise and precision. On the palate, it packs the most substantial punch of the roster, oozing with a rich, cake-like texture while refraining from overt decadence. The finish is deep, long and layered, with a lumbering richness that sets it apart from the more high-toned and soaring counterparts in the lineup.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPPlush and juicy, the 2023 Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard is a flashier, more forward wine with great suppleness and a core of intensely ripe blueberry fruit. A bold, confident wine, the Fiddlestix saturates the palate with inky mineral tones and gentle acids. Nicely done.Vinous Media | 93 VM

This cabernet sauvignon really shines, with subtle paprika, tobacco ash and vibrant red currants on the nose. Nuanced blackberries, blueberries, fine spices and a hint of cigar box. This fresh, lovely Sena comes from a warmer year than 2021 or 2022, with softer tannins. It’s super refined but driven, long and flavorful. More approachable and less structured and direct this year, with impeccable drinkability. 60% cabernet sauvignon, 19% malbec, 15% carmenere and 6% petit verdot. 18 months of aging, of which 90% is in French oak barrels, including 70% new and around 10% in foudres. Drinkable now, but it’s built for the next 20 years.James Suckling | 99 JSThis vintage of Seña marks the transition between ’eras’ with harvest still under the oversight of Francisco Baettig ahead of the arrival of Emily Faulconer, who then briefly left on maternity leave, with Baettig covering for her. The baton has been successfully passed on and Baettig left a fabulous vintage for Faulconer to start her trajectory at Errazuriz: full of detail and with remarkable purity of flavour. 2023 was a hot vintage in Chile but the Seña site benefited from wide temperature amplitude, allowing the fruit to retain the fine and lively acid that frames the wine from start to finish - and a long finish it is. A mineral nose, with gunpowder and graphite, preludes flavours of ripe wild strawberry, maraschino cherries, plum sorbet and cherry pit. Liquorice, bayleaf and sage, sprinkled with cinnamon and nutmeg, give nuance and definition. Lingering, spicy touch of spicy wild rocket. Drinking superbly now but with a great life ahead of it.Decanter Magazine | 98 DECUsing a higher proportion of Carménère than is typical, the 2023 Seña opens with its signature fresh, lifted bouquet driven by mint, spice and red fruit aromas, developing graphite accents and a vanilla-tinged undercurrent with aeration. The palate beautifully balances a suave polish with tensile focus, releasing into a rich, slow-moving finish underpinned by mineral-driven nuances and a touch of refreshing salinity. This impressive showing from Seña in a warm vintage retains admirable freshness and verve. The blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Malbec, 15% Carménère, 6% Petit Verdot matured for 18 months in barrique and a small portion of foudre.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2023 Seña is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Malbec, 15% Carménère and 6% Petit Verdot from Ocoa. This aged for 18 months in 70% new French oak barrels, 20% second-use barrels and 10% in large foudres. It opens with forest floor and boldo aromas, followed by lavender, violet and black fruit. The expression is clean and precise. This is dry and taut, with fine-grained, reactive tannins and a long, juicy palate. Despite the warm year, it retains freshness and a graceful character, with a lingering finish and subtle power.Vinous Media | 95 VMElegant yet chiseled, this leads with subtle floral, cocoa bean and tea leaf notes that join the vibrant core of raspberry, Santa Rosa plum and red currant. A wave of mineral freshness lends tension, while hints of cassis and cigar box swirl in alongside a callback to the core fruit. Ends with juicy length and polished tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Carmenère and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2038. 12,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Last year, Álvaro Palacios defined the 2023 Moncerbal as juicy and crystalline, an energetic red from 2.1 hectares in this paraje from Corullón where the soils are shallow and the vines are on steep slopes at 610 to 730 meters above sea level. It’s 92% Mencía and 8% Jerez that fermented with some full clusters and indigenous yeasts in oak vats with manual punching down of the cap. Like most of the 2023s, it had an élevage of around 10 months and has contained alcohol, 13%, and in this case a slightly lower pH, 3.6. It’s paler and also the most aromatic, floral, ethereal and insinuating. This is a vineyard that excels in less warm vintages, but it’s also a vineyard that has suffered a lot from the drought in the last few years and needs some time to recover. Still, this has the textbook herbal side, with finesse and precision. It’s perfumed, floral and showy, with notes of tangerine peel and also fennel and aniseed, pungent, mysterious and intoxicating... There is a transparency, symmetry and elegance. This is super approachable already. 6,446 bottles produced. It was bottled in March 2025.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPTasted en primeur and, as with Villa de Corullón, this Moncerbal was a little reduced on the nose. In contrast, the palate was remarkable: alight with vivid acidity, bright cherry and pomelo fruits, wrapped with notes of creamy chocolate and structured by very fine tannin. Enjoy it soon, but will also benefit from ageing.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThe 2023 Moncerbal is a Mencía from Corullón in Bierzo. It opens with pomegranate and blueberry notes, evolving toward wild herbs, a touch of sun-warmed cherry and a hint of laurel. The palate shows a delicate talc-like texture and a gentle tightness that gains energy from the interplay of alcohol and freshness. Moderate yet expressive, it presents a compact character within the Bierzo context.Vinous Media | 93-95 VM

Black cherries, currants, leather, savory herbs, and a beautiful sense of minerality all emerge from the 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon Tierra Rioja Vineyard. I love its remarkable purity and freshness, and on the palate, it’s full-bodied with flawless overall balance, building ripe tannins, plenty of mid-palate depth, and a great finish. It’s an incredibly structured, layered, impressive beauty that deserves 4-5 years of bottle age. Drink 2029-2049.Jeb Dunnuck | 98+ JD

The 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon Vidovich Lane hits the palate with dark-toned fruit, leather, incense, chocolate, gravel and dried herbs. This is an especially virile, potent Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine that paints a starkly different side of St. Helena vis-à-vis the Panek. Give this a few years to soften. Memorable.Vinous Media | 97 VMComing from a site just beside Dr. Crane in St. Helena and all See clone, the 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon Vidovich Lane is a beautifully pure, elegant, finesse-driven wine in the vintage. Red, blue, and black fruits intermixed with spicy, floral, and candied violet nuances define the aromatics. It’s medium to full-bodied on the palate, with remarkably pure, polished tannins and outstanding overall balance. This charming Cabernet Sauvignon can be drunk today or cellared for 15+ years. There are 395 cases produced. Drink 2025-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDFrom a two-acre site located south of the city of Saint Helena, near Dr. Crane, the 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon Vidovich Lane Vineyard has layers of ripe cherries tinged with dark chocolate. It’s full-bodied and really supple but still shows ample structure and length.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96 RP

The 2023 Pinot Noir Koosah Vineyard is ruby red in color and is charming upfront, offering notes of grenadine, purple flowers, sweet herbs, and dusty earth. Focused on the palate, with angular tannins and lively acidity, it has a floating texture and perfumed notes of peach that last on the finish. There’s a refined tension and Nebbiolo-like structure, with a linear drive here that I absolutely love. Drink through 2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDEola-Amity Hills evangelist Ken Pahlow does his most recognised work with Chardonnay, but his Pinot Noirs from his own high-profile site for the Valley’s next generation of winemakers are also remarkable. Leaning into minerality and white pepper, the aromatics pop with taut red berries and sea salt. Briny on the front palate, the mineral zip leads to fresh strawberries and mint leaves. There’s a streak of graphite that centres minerality directly into the finish.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2023 Pinot Noir Koosah Vineyard comes from mixed clone vines planted in 2016 in volcanic soils at 720 to 1,080 feet in elevation. Fermented with 25% whole clusters and matured for 15 months in 45% new French oak, it has slowly unfurling scents of blackberry, rhubarb, blood orange, forest floor, violet and tobacco. The medium-bodied palate is powerfully styled with concentrated yet detailed flavors. It’s framed by chalky tannins and vibrant acidity and has a long, spicy finish. 175 cases were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2022 Pinot Noir Koosah Vineyard opens with a savory herbal flourish complicated by hints of chalk dust and wild blueberries. This displays textures of pure silk, pliant and supple, with depths of red and blue fruits that slowly saturate toward the close. It leaves a tart cherry saturation with nuances of licorice and spice over a bed of gently grippy tannins. Koosah is shaping up to be one of the most exciting locations Walter Scott works with.Vinous Media | 94+ VMThe 2023 Koosah Vineyard pinot noir from Walter Scott saw forty-five percent new oak in this vintage, with no whole clusters used. The wine’s élevage was done entirely in two hundred and twenty-eight liter casks. It comes in at 13.5 percent octane this year and also gets my vote as the most beautiful wine label to be found anywhere! The wine’s gorgeous bouquet wafts from the glass in a mix of sweet dark berries, black cherries, coffee bean, a complex base of volcanic soil, hints of the cola to come, cedary oak, violets and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, pure and full-bodied, with a beautiful core of fruit, fine soil signature and grip, ripe, well-integrated tannins, tangy acids and impeccable balance on the long, nascently complex and precise finish. This is going to be a superb bottle of pinot noir in due course, but it is classically structured and will demand some extended cellaring before it starts to drink with generosity. (Drink between 2040 - 2085)John Gilman | 94+ JGA dark raspberry dipped in dark chocolate aroma is a heck of a way to make an introduction. Beyond the fruit and chocolate are traces of loamy soil and coriander. The Koosah feels fresh and energetic on the palate, as snappy acidity energizes flavors like boysenberries, lemon zest and a hint of black pepper.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques is beautiful, offering up aromas of sweet dark berries, licorice and petals, followed by a medium to full-bodied, layered and textural palate that’s rich and fleshy, with lively acids and powdery structuring tannins.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has more mineralité and terroir expression on the nose compared to the Gevrey 1er Cru, with blackcurrant, raspberry and crushed violet scents emerging with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, firm structure and a healthy dash of black pepper on the powerful finish. Time will tame this Lavaux Saint-Jacques. There is good potential here, but be patient.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMHere too there is just enough wood in evidence to merit mentioning on the wonderfully fresh and more deeply pitched nose of wild dark currant, plum and plenty of sauvage character. There is more volume still even though the medium-bodied flavors are not especially dense, all wrapped in a powerful, punch and mineral-driven overtly austere finish that delivers excellent length. This is lovely and very Lavaut in style and feel.Burghound | 91-94 BH

The 2023 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru has a backward nose despite aeration, but it’s still nicely defined. Dark berry fruit and a touch of white pepper dominate, with hints of blue fruit emerging later. The medium-bodied palate features slightly chalky tannins and is more saline than the Chapelle-Chambertin. There is impressive precision and tension here, plus plenty of backbone on the finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 95-97 VMThe 2023 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru is a beauty, bursting with notes of plums, red berries, orange zest and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, it’s suave and sensual, with polished tannins and a vibrant core of fruit, concluding with a perfumed finish. As usual, it’s the most ethereal, elegant wine in the Dugat cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPFirm reduction overshadows the underlying fruit today. More interesting are the elegant and beautifully refined, if decidedly punchy, flavors that exude evident minerality on the sleek, precise, moderately austere and impressively long and powerful finish. This is gorgeous and quite classy. If you can find it, buy it.Burghound | 93-96 BH

Aromas of blueberries, ash and stones with hints of blackberries, orange peel and chocolate. It’s medium-bodied with medium-round tannins that are polished and velvety but always in check. Cedar and baking spices like nutmeg on the palate. Lovely soft and silky texture with a long finish. Enchanting and delicious. 92% cabernet sauvginon, 4% cabernet franc and 4% petit verdot. From organically grown grapes. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2023 Napanook is deep, bold and luscious right out of the gate. Black cherry, lavender, dried herbs and graphite fill out its mid-weight frame quite nicely. I expect the 2023 will drink well with minimal cellaring, as it is already quite open and doesn’t quite have the tannic palate presence of more important years.Vinous Media | 93 VMDeep purple-hued and the second wine of this reference point domaine, the 2023 Napanook offers classic currants, leafy tobacco, graphite, and underbrush notes in a medium-bodied, very pretty, pure, elegant, and graceful style. Based on 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot and aged 20 months in 20% new French oak, it has ripe and polished tannins, perfectly integrated acidity, and a great finish. This classic, classy Cabernet will keep for 10-15 years. Drink 2025-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JD

Silky, with some weight to its roundness, this red exhibits cherry, strawberry, rose, spice and mineral flavors. Boasts purity and grace, with alluring harmony and a long, fruit-filled aftertaste. This seems approachable now, yet there’s ample grip on the long finish. Best from 2028 through 2045. 200 cases made, 41 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2023 Pommard “les Pézerolles” from Domaine Voillot is an equally stunning young wine. The wine’s aromatic constellation is sappy, pure and very refined, offering up scents of sweet dark berries, black plums, raw cocoa, pigeon, currant leaf, dark soil tones, a hint of anise, woodsmoke and a gentle framing of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and sports a superb core of fruit, with lovely mineral drive and grip, tangy acids, ripe, buried tannins and a long, impeccably balanced, complex and very precise finish. Great juice. (Drink between 2037 - 2085)John Gilman | 94 JGAn exceptionally pretty, even perfumed, nose blends ripe aromas of red and dark cherry, violet, spice and an interesting suggestion of dried tangerine peel, which isn’t something that one encounters every day. The wonderfully textured, delicious and more mineral-driven middle weight flavors retain a lovely sense of delineation that carries over to the balanced, moderately austere and built-to-age finale. The Voillot Pézerolles doesn’t usually have the same density of tannins as the Epenots but in 2023, it appears that such is the case.Burghound | 92 BHThe 2023 Pommard Les Pezerolles 1er Cru is more backward than the Les Epenots at the moment, but there is a little more complexity than the 2022 and a touch of wild mint emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly reductive opening. It has mainly red fruit notes, slightly furry tannins and fine weight on the finish. This just needs a little time to knit together. Drink this over ten to fifteen years.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, the Fattoria Le Pupille 2023 Saffredi represents a classic expression from a fresh vintage that ultimately performed far better than expected despite mid-season mildew pressure. The estate continues to refine its use of wood to emphasize brightness and fruit purity, a shift that is especially evident here. The wine shows notes of dark cherry, ripe blackberry, spice and hints of creamy chocolate. While the 2022 vintage emphasized harder tannins, this vintage is defined by generosity and luscious fruit. The Cabernet Sauvignon in particular appears crunchy, youthful and fresh, giving the wine energy and forward momentum.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RP

Very few vintages of this legendary Tuscan wine deliver the immediate joy, richness and complexity found in the Tenuta San Guido 2023 Bolgheri Sassicaia. Tasted both before and after its January 2026 bottling, this is a wine that feels uncannily open and generous in its youth, a rare trait for Sassicaia, which is famously inscrutable at this stage. The 2023 vintage was marked by a cold winter and above-average rainfall followed by a severe outbreak of downy mildew that damaged leaves, forcing brutal fruit selection and resulting in a 20% reduction in yields. Only the estates willing to make these sacrifices succeeded, and the best wines rank among the most compelling and elusive of recent years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RP

High-toned, perfumed pomegranate and cranberry fruit with an edge of peony and ginger spice. The texture is silkier than this producer’s Baudes, but it does not have the same depth. The tannins are very fine and Laurent Lignier feels that he will bottle this before spring 2025 to avoid issues with volatility tied to the lower pH this year – he has been buying the fruit for this since 2010 and has noted this tendency in the past.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECMade from purchased grapes, a contract since 2010. Paler colour, raspberry and strawberry, lots of energy, then fractionally earthy in texture but not in taste. Otherwise, the attractive fruit continues on through. Drink from 2030-2035. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 90-93 JMOnce again there is enough wood to merit pointing out framing the pretty and airy essence of spicy red berry scents. The beautifully textured and very supple medium weight flavors flash a subtle bead of minerality on the dusty, balanced and sneaky long finish. This does need better depth so plan on holding it for at least a few years first.Burghound | 90-91 BH

Mid ruby colour. Despite being adjacent to Morey, this has a very Chambolle perfume, generous red fruit with some violets. Definitely some tannins thereafter, with deep cherry notes. Perhaps a little more like the wilder side of Morey on the palate. Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JMA slightly riper and vaguely liqueur-like nose of various dark berries, warm earth and a floral top note gives way to lilting and delicious middle weight flavors that also contrast somewhat with the moderately rustic and lingering finale that could use better depth.Burghound | 88-90 BH

Deep ruby color. Here too moderate wood is present on the very ripe liqueur-like aromas of black cherry, cassis and warm earth. The succulent and rich though not especially dense medium-bodied flavors do possess a lovely texture that also contrasts somewhat with the youthfully austere and mildly raspy if long finale.Burghound | 91-94 BHThe 2023 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from purchased fruit. It has a well-knit, focused bouquet with redcurrant and wild strawberry scents. This has fine delineation with a sense of energy. The palate is medium-bodied, fresh and vibrant, with supple tannins, although it doesn’t have the complexity of the Mazoyères on the finish.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

The 2023 Clos-de-la-Roche Grand Cru has a perfumed bouquet that’s quite floral with incense and bergamot tea scents and fruit that blossoms, but only after five minutes in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, tea leaf and bay leaf with a gradual crescendo toward its intense, mineral-driven finish. This is superb.Vinous Media | 95-97 VMDelicious. The classic Clos de la Roche from Domaine Hubert Lignier is impressive, deeply-coloured wine, with a pronounced aroma of black cherries, peony, and spice. The old vines provide small bunches even in 2023, giving a concentration on the palate that impresses in this sunny year. Two-thirds of the grapes were planted by Laurent’s father in 1964-1965; the balance (in Fremières) by his grandfather in 1955. One-third of the harvest was fermented as whole clusters, and the wine is ageing now in cask (one-third new).Decanter Magazine | 95 DECTwo thirds comes from Les Monts Luisants, and one third from Les Fremières. A deep crimson/purple. The wonderful bouquet has all the charm in the world plus complexity. Here the richness of the fruit suits the grand cru structure of this wine. Dark berry fruit that flows cross the palate and covers the well-balanced tannins. The 2023 Clos de la Roche has plenty of energy as well as fluidity. Drink from 2033-2042. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 95-97 JMSubtle though still easily perceptible wood influence can be found on the spicy black currant, violet and softly gamy nose. The seductive and caressing but punchy and powerful larger-bodied flavors also conclude in a youthfully austere, serious and compact finale that displays first-rate persistence. The Lignier Clos de la Roche is almost always excellent if given sufficient time in bottle and the 2023 version should honor that tradition as well.Burghound | 92-95 BH

The sumptuous old-vine Hommage MCMLV Clos de la Roche from Domaine Hubert Lignier offers profuse aromas of ripe mulberry and redcurrants accented with a floral note, oak spice and a bright mineral element. The texture is firm and very tannic, but the extract, acidity and fruit are all balanced; this wine seems set to age for decades. The grapes are from 0.27ha planted in the lieu-dit Monts Luisants by Laurent Lignier’s grandparents in 1955, hence the label MCMLV. There are only two barrels from this plot, but it is well worth seeking out.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECThe 2023 Clos-de-la-Roche Cuvée MCMLV Grand Cru has more mineral drive on the nose. It has ethereal transparency, intensity and hints of wilted rose petals emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, satin-like texture and gentle but insistent grip. Very long yet tender, this is a magnificent wine in the making.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMThis cuvée is taken from a few rows in Les Monts Luisants, a 1955 plantation made by Laurent’s grandfather with massal selection, delivering lots of millerand grapes. More purple than crimson, rather headier, yet all in reds fruit without the darker notes. A youthful energy, with a little more structure as well. The two wines are clearly very different. A lightly menthol touch to finish. Drink from 2033-2045. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 95-98 JMIn contrast to the nose of the regular cuvée, here it’s firmly reduced. On the palate though, there is plenty of underlying tension and freshness on the equally scaled flavors that are exceptionally rich, even plush and velvety, while delivering even better depth and persistence on the noticeably firmer finale. This should also age out successfully and is a wine that’s going to need a minimum of at least a decade of patience.Burghound | 93-95 BH

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées comes from vines planted by Laurent Lignier’s grandfather just after the war. Dark berry fruit mixes with iris flower and rooibos on the nose. It is well defined yet understated. The palate is medium-bodied with cranberry and raspberry notes. Touches of rose water come through with time, with fine concentration toward the finish. It’s not quite up there with the 2022 but it comes close.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

A discreet but not invisible dollop of wood is present on the airy aromas of both red and dark currant along with suggestions of earth and underbrush. The sleek, delicious and attractively vibrant medium weight flavors possess a lovely mouthfeel while displaying good balance on the persistent finale. This is a quality Gevrey villages and worth considering.Burghound | 89-91 BH

Opens with just a bit of reduction, but this will disappear at bottling. The aromas are compellingly attractive, with ripe blackberry and blueberry fruit and a slightly floral edge. The texture has density, grip and a marvellously lingering finish. The grapes are from a half-hectare on a gentle slope exposed to the south. This should mature fairly quickly but is also suited to mid-term ageing.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThe 2023 Monthélie Sous la Velle 1er Cru comes from a 0.35-hectare parcel. It has an airy bouquet with dark berry fruit mixed with mandarin and light sous-bois scents. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and much more structure than the Village Cru, with a bright and sorbet-fresh finish. This is recommended.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

Premier cru La Riotte has delivered a wine with ripe, lush aromas of sweet mulberry fruit aromas with a hint of earth and spice. The texture is rich yet still structured, and the density pull the wine through to a pleasantly lingering finish. Laurent explains that the parcel is just below the Clos Saint-Denis, in the stony, sandy soils of the dejection cone from the combe, which helps the grapes ripen well but does not bring a lot of limestone.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThe 2023 Morey-Saint-Denis La Riotte 1er Cru has a clean, precise bouquet with perfumed redcurrant and raspberry fruit tones. As usual, it’s one of the most open aromatics from Lignier, brimming with joie-de-vivre. This is more floral compared to the Les Chaffots. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, pleasant salinity and what you might call a transparent finish that lingers in the mouth.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMThe elegant, airy and very pretty nose features the softly spicy and earthy essence of red pinot fruit. The refined and vibrant flavors are not particularly dense but they are lilting and seductive while displaying a subtle bead of minerality on the lightly austere, balanced and firm finale. Lovely and understated in style.Burghound | 91-93 BHMid crimson with some crushed strawberry on the nose. Some crunchiness at the back, this is agreeable but less energetic than some, not quite kicking on. Drink from 2030-2035. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JM

Lignier’s premier cru Chaffots was a spectacular success in 2023, with bright forward pomegranate and wild strawberry fruit and hints of violets, liquorice, and flinty minerals. The texture is lively and fresh, with plenty of tannin but no lack of depth. The 0.45 hectares of vines were planted in 1968 in the thin soils above grand cru Clos Saint-Denis, with a prominent influence from the cool winds of the combe.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECBright purple. The nose is subtle and supple, with less immediate sweet fruit than Sorbè, a little more depth than Riotte. The class of the wine shows in the fruit on the palate, a darker red berry, with a seamless long finish, covering the tannins. Precision. Drink from 2032-2038. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMThe 2023 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Chaffots 1er Cru comes from limestone soils, which translate onto the nose. It’s quite strict and linear, with touches of black cherry and sea spray scents. The palate is medium-bodied, with a pastille-like purity on the entry. It is very supple in the mouth, but it just needs a little more grip on the finish. Otherwise, this is a refined Morey-Saint-Denis from one of its best Premier Crus.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMA more reserved and more deeply pitched nose is comprised more from the darker side of the fruit spectrum with more floral and earth nuances as well. Once again there is only average density to the fresh, punchy and solidly powerful flavors that are at once succulent yet with a youthfully austere finish that exhibits outstanding length. Like the Baudes, this virtually always ages well and it is one to look for.Burghound | 91-94 BH