Wine Varietals

wines

At Boillot they normally make a single, 350-litre barrel of Montrachet, lightly crushing the fruit before pressing in a basket press. The results in 2019 were absolutely beautiful. Ripe pear and fresh flowers dominate the initial attack. On the palate there is a lovely intensity and richness, with a dense, creamy, buttery texture and huge reserves of substance that will keep this wine ageing for years to come. Drinking Window 2024 - 2039.Decanter | 97 DECInterestingly, here the nose resembles a grand cru Chablis with its oyster shell, iodine, quinine, lemon-lime and bee’s wax-scented nose. There is outstanding volume and concentration to the overtly powerful and muscular flavors that are supported by a citrus-tinged and markedly firm acid spine that also shapes the cuts-like-a-knife finale. As the length of my initial projected drinking window suggests, it would be pointless to open this beauty before it has at least a decade of aging as it should easily repay two of them. In sum, this is quite simply stunningly good. (Drink starting 2039)Burghound | 97 BHNotes of orange oil, pear, peach, yellow apples, fresh bread and nutmeg introduce Boillot’s 2019 Montrachet Grand Cru, a full-bodied, satiny and concentrated wine that’s textural and enveloping, with an ample core of fruit, lively acids and a long, expansive finish. More tightly wound than the demonstrative 2018, his is a superb effort that will reward bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RP

The 2019 Condrieu Chery is always a more steely, mineral-driven example of this appellation, but it packs a punch in 2019 and has powerful notes of buttered citrus, pineapple, honeysuckle, and a liquid rock-like minerality. These carry to a rich, full-bodied Condrieu with an opulent texture, moderate acidity, and a great finish. As with most 2019 Condrieu (and 2018s), it’s not going to be the longest lived, but who cares? Drink this brilliant wine over the coming 4-5 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDFrom 70-year-old vines, the 2016 Condrieu Chéry is a bit more concentrated than Niero’s Les Ravines bottling, but otherwise, it’s similar in its aromas of crushed stone and pineapple. Like the other wines at this estate, it’s aged 12 months in a mix of stainless steel (60%) and oak barrels (40%), giving it a rich, slightly oily texture. It’s harmonious and long, with pineapple and melon flavors giving way to gingery spice on the finish. (JCRobert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RP

Very discrete on the nose at this early stage. Rounded, very generous on the palate, plenty of fat. This is balanced by great driving intensity, citrusy acidity and a seam of salinity. The overall effect is bombastic and flamboyant, but fresh and balanced. The oak use is also generous, but it works with the wine. The alcohol is just a touch on the high side, but it’s entirely forgivable in the grand scheme of things. Incredible length. Drinking Window 2021 - 2032.Decanter | 97 DECA tiny production, the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape La Fontaine Blanc is beautifully done and certainly ranks with the top wines of the vintage. Based on 100% Roussanne, it has a smoking bouquet of buttered citrus, caramelized white currants, toasted bread, and a touch of nuttiness to go with a medium to full-bodied, nicely concentrated style on the palate. With bright acidity, good mid-palate depth, and a great finish, this serious Roussanne can be enjoyed now or cellared for 10-15 years, if not longer.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThis is 100% Roussanne vinified in oak. A perfumed, smoky sip, it balances notes of sweet spice, vanilla and tobacco leaf against a core of honeyed tangerine and apple flavors. Luscious and leesy on the palate, it’s held upright by a fresh streak of lemon and hints of white pepper on the midpalate. Inviting young, the wine should hit a second peak after 2030. Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEPlump and open, with warmed brioche, peach and melon notes backed by heather and salted butter on the finish. Shows a late hint of macadamia nut. This is for fans of the flattering style. Drink now through 2023. 15 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Like the Clos de Vougeot, here too there is an initial note of bourgeon de cassis though considerable eventually coaxes the intensely floral-suffused aromas of spicy jasmine tea, orange peel and dark berries to reveal themselves. There is stunningly good power and intensity to the backward broad-shouldered flavors that brim with an abundance of dry extract and an almost pungent minerality on the precise, dusty and gorgeously long finish that is just a bit more structured. This is seriously good juice with the potential to match. (Drink starting 2039)Burghound | 97 BHThe 2019 Richebourg Grand Cru is much more backward on the nose compared to the outgoing Romanée-Saint-Vivant, offering dark berry fruit, cold wet limestone, briar and hints of iris flower, but showing fabulous delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with filigreed tannins framing extraordinary pure black fruit suffused with even more mineralité than the aforementioned RSV. It fans out wonderfully on the finish and asserts its authority over the rest of Hudelot-Noëllat’s portfolio. Brilliant.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMThe domaine owns 0.28ha of Richebourg in Les Richebourgs, between Grivot and DRC, that were planted in 1950, with this parcel making a magnificent and monumental wine. This 2019 is still a bit closed initially, but opens with some time on the palate to show great depth of fruit, despite a very firm structure and massive extract. Less exotic and forward than the wine made by the proprietors on either side, but equally compelling. Drinking Window 2024 - 2049.Decanter | 95 DEC

(Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru Red) An expressive nose is comprised by notes of freshly sliced plum, red cherry, soy, hoisin and discreet hints of sandalwood. There is excellent power and intensity to the focused and beautifully textured, indeed even silky, medium weight flavors that deliver outstanding depth and persistence on the impeccably well-balanced and youthfully austere finish. This wonderfully refined effort is at once classy yet impressively punchy and is a wine that should also age effortlessly. A ripe yet still classically styled RSV. (Drink starting 2034)Burghound | 96 BHThe 2019 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru is superb, wafting from the glass with aromas of plums, cassis, exotic spices, dark chocolate and rose petals, framed by a deft application of new oak. Full-bodied, sumptuous and enveloping, it’s deep and concentrated, with lively acids, broad structural shoulders and a long, perfumed finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RPThe 2019 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru, matured in around 50% new oak, has an enthralling, pure black cherry, cassis, crushed violet and blood orange bouquet that soars from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannins. Opulent and showy; hints of licorice and mint suffuse the intense finish. It closes up a little toward the finish, but this is a magnificent Romanée-Saint-Vivant that should age over the next 30–40 years.Vinous Media | 95-97 VMThis 0.48ha parcel planted in 1920 is one of the jewels of the estate and is located between Liger-Belair and Jean Mongeard. In 2019, these vines have delivered fruit of superb intensity, with marvellous, fresh blackberry fruit, hints of violets and a savoury edge. On the palate there is impressive density, concentration and a straight line of tannic structure that leads it to a lingering finish. Drinking Window 2024 - 2049.Decanter | 95 DEC

In spite of the ripe-orange and exotic-fruit character that pours from the glass, there’s nothing superficial about this wine. Thanks to its generosity and very attractive fruit, this makes a very friendly initial impression on the palate, then the intense minerality comes through, building to a serious crescendo at the very fresh finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSA rich, opulent white, this features lemon cake, lime blossom, baking spice and stone flavors. Though intense, there’s also a sense of restraint, yet the finish is long and complex. Drink now through 2027. 630 cases made, 66 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS(Domaine du Pavillon (Pommard) - Domaines Albert Bichot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru White) Smoky aromas of Granny Smith apples, acacia and a plethora of citrus influences are trimmed in discreet wood influence. There is fine volume to the delicious and almost creamy larger-scaled flavors that brim with both dry extract and minerality on the lemon-tinged and youthfully austere finale. This compact and serious effort should definitely benefit from mid-term or perhaps even a decade of cellaring. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 93 BHBichot has 1.2ha in Languettes, high on the slope, with a south/south-east exposition. The southern exposition is of major importance here, if one is to avoid over-ripeness. In 2019, the wine has very exotic, almost tropical aromas, while on the palate the texture is dense and creamy, and the ripe pear fruit touched with honey is even more apparent. A wine of luxurious charm. Drinking Window 2024 - 2039.Decanter | 92 DECThe 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru comes from 1.2 hectares of vines in Les Longuettes. Matured in 35% new oak, it has a perfumed nose of yellow fruit, nectarine and peach skin aromas. The palate is well balanced with a light pineapple and passion fruit opening and well-judged acidity. Very harmonious, with a gentle landing on the finish. Maybe it is missing some tension and nerve, but the flavors are irresistible. Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Colombis comes from more sandy soils and is all Grenache raised in demi-muids. Wild strawberries, cherries, flowery incense, lavender, and loamy earth all make an appearance, and it’s full-bodied, has a deep layered texture, ripe tannins, and a great finish. It’s another wine that needs a few years of bottle age, but it will deliver the goods over the following 15+. This is Grenache at its most elegant and seamless.Jeb Dunnuck | 97+ JDThe 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Colombis is all old-vine Grenache, vinified entirely as whole clusters and matured in demi-muids. On the nose, there are some minty-stemmy notes but also wonderful suggestions of garrigue and vibrant fruit—red raspberries, cherries and stone fruit. It’s full-bodied and silky on the mid-palate, then long, spicy-peppery and firmly tannic on the finish. While not unapproachable or unenjoyable even now, it should benefit from several years cellaring and live close to two decades. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPDeep, shimmering ruby. Expansive, mineral- and spice-accented red and dark berry preserve, incense, cola and garrigue qualities on the finely detailed nose. Palate-staining cherry pie, raspberry, boysenberry, floral pastille and fruitcake flavors show uncanny energy for their depth. The spice and floral notes dominate a seriously long, sappy finish framed by velvety, well-knit tannins.Vinous Media | 96 VMA really lovely expression of pure Grenache, it feels very naturally presented and unforced. Might take time to really express its complexity however, I would hold on to this for 10 years before opening. Very fresh and well balanced, with fine tannins. Largely sandy soils, a small lieu-dit to the west of the village. All fermented and aged in tronconic vats.Decanter | 95 DECSo silky this version seems expressive at first, but the core of cassis, cherry purée and raspberry fruit is tightly coiled, with both chalk and iron notes having their say, stretching out in unison through the finish. Black tea and garrigue hints peek in as well, which is a sign of what’s to come after cellaring.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Pretty pure fruit to this with black cherry, black berry and light chocolate aromas. The palate is full and focused with very polished tannins and a long, long finish. Best after 2027.James Suckling | 95 JSThe Caparzo 2019 Brunello di Montalcino offers lively aromas of cherry cola, forest berry and dried cranberry that really pop on the bouquet. The dimension and latitude of the wine is impressive, especially in terms of mouthfeel, and with this bottle you’re set for near and medium-term drinking. However, what works best in my opinion is the wine’s balanced and much-needed freshness. You get great quality over an ambitious release of 160,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino opens slowly in the glass, yet it is worth the wait as a dusty blend of dried flowers, cedar shavings, wild strawberries, and spice emerges over time. It’s silky and enveloping with fresh acidity and pretty wild berry fruits that gain in sweetness as they travel across the palate. It finishes long and staining yet still lively and spry, leaving a coating of fine tannins and licorice hints that resonate under an air of violet inner florals. The 2019 is a lovely interpretation of northern Montalcino fruit.Vinous Media | 93 VMDelicate aromas suggesting graphite, crushed mint and iris take shape on the 2019 Brunello from Caparzo. Smooth and sleek, the linear palate features juicy Morello cherry, raspberry, star anise and the same graphite nose as the nose. Polished tannins offer lithe support. It’s already surprisingly accessible but will also offer another decade of pleasure. Drink 2027–2034. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KO

The Casanova di Neri 2019 Brunello di Montalcino shows thick fruit fabric with stitchings of underbrush, pressed rose, bright cherry, tobacco and balanced oak spice. This wine definitely has a special groove. It offers a ripe, round texture with good acidity followed by fine, chalky tannins. This is impressive quality for 109,600 bottles produced. In fact, this is one of the best village Brunellos from Giacomo Neri and his family made so far.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe core of ripe cherry fruit is complemented by woodsy, mushroom, iron, spice and saline flavors in this intense red, with a long, resonant aftertaste. Though balanced, this could benefit from a few more years to really hit its sweet spot. Best from 2026 through 2042. 9,133 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSPouring a rich red color, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino White Label takes on layered, savory aromas of leather, tobacco leaf, dried cherries, mocha, and a light rustic quality, although it’s very well-balanced. Medium to full-bodied, it’s pure and energetic, with rich, ripe concentration and ripe tannins. It’s approachable now and is a great entry into the vintage, with accessibility high since about 100,000 bottles were produced. It’s also a great value. Drink 2024-2034.Jeb Dunnuck | 93+ JDRedcurrants and lavender followed by layers of dried herbs and spices. Full-bodied and opulent on the palate with chewy tannins. Persistent long finish with some citrusy undertones. Yet young, healthy and concentrated. Very attractive now and in the future.James Suckling | 92 JS

Black cherries, black bark, blackberries and lavender. Medium- to full-bodied with juicy and polished tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Needs four or five years to open and come together. Best after 2027.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino pulls the taster close to take in its understated bouquet of dried roses, cedar shavings and incense. It’s soft and supple with depths of tart wild berry fruit guided by brisk acidity as hints of orange form along with a coating of fine tannins toward the close. This finishes classically dry and with admirable length, as grippy tannins pinch at the cheeks and a licorice tinge slowly fades. I’m happy to say I’m finding more energy and liveliness in the 2019 versus past vintages.Vinous Media | 92 VMThe 2019 Castelgiocondo Brunello has balsamic aromas of camphor that mingle with leather, forest floor, spice and hazelnut. Full-bodied and linear, the palate features coconut, roasted coffee bean, licorice and a hint of blood orange but it’s shy on fruit richness. Tightly woven, close-grained tannins provide the backbone and a drying finish. Drink 2028–2034. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 90 KO

Domaine des Combiers is a family estate of 9ha, mostly in Beaujolais with a little down in Mâcon. The Montgenas is produced from hand-picked grapes grown on vines more than 60 years old, on very pink granitic soil, facing to the east. The whole bunches undergo a semi-carbonic maceration for 8-12 days, at the end of which the cap is punched down to extract more of the colour and aromas. Finally, the wine is aged in oak for 10 -12 months. Rosemary George MW: Quite firm, sturdy nose and palate, with fairly dominant oak but good fruit. Andy Howard MW: A touch of reduction on the nose, but bright, fresh fruit to taste with plenty of crisp acidity. Very appealing characters. More black fruit, rather than red. Good density and nice length to finish. A Fleurie which has some extra elements compared to many. Dominique Vrigneau: Black fruit and plenty of it along with good wood support. Very smart. Drinking Window 2021 - 2026.Decanter | 95 DEC

Aged in 50% new and 50% second-use American Oak from the Duncan family’s The Oak cooperage in Higbee, Missouri. Matt Duncan joined me for my tasting, and he says the Petit Verdot in the blend, of which there is 0.4%, is co-fermented with the Cabernet Sauvignon, intended to bring focus to the Cabernet fruit. A compelling, brooding, muscular rendition of Cabernet from Alexander Valley with gorgeous boysenberry notes, black currants, and rose petals laced with vanillin notes and toasty oak. Medium to full-bodied with black currants, ripe blackberry and black cherry notes framed by velvety tannins laced with that irresistible vanillin note. Toasty oak spices lend a hint of sweetness, balanced by grippy acidity. Long and complex, revealing umami, garrigue, and crushed slatestone on the finish. It’s a terrific wine from the Alexander Valley.Decanter | 95 DEC

Fragrant and refined, this compelling red has aromas of woodland berry, ground pepper, camphor and tilled earth. Full-bodied and structured, the youthfully tense palate features ripe red cherry, pomegranate, star anise and ground nutmeg. Tight, fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity provide support and energy. It needs several more years and shows great aging potential. Drink 2029–2039. Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe combination of the clay-rich soil in the lower part of Vigna Santo Stefano in the Albesani MGA seems to have enhanced the density and the refinement of this Barbaresco. Elegant and restrained with smoky woodland and coffee grounds to the fore, then an amazing wild strawberry, savoury rhubarb and olive-like umami character. The attack is firm, with chewy acidity and velvety tannins. Great mid-palate extraction shows this is intended for the long haul. It doesn’t lack tension either, and will keep going strong for decades.Decanter | 94 DECThe 2019 Barbaresco Albesani Santo Stefano is deep and beautifully resonant in the glass. Bright red fruit, crushed flowers, tobacco, incense and orange peel open first, lending quite a bit of aromatic presence. Another year or two will help the tannins soften. All this needs is a bit more focus to make the leap into the next level.Vinous Media | 92 VMA rich version, this features cherry and raspberry flavors embedded in a fleshy texture. Reveals plum, earth, leather and spice notes as this firms up on the lingering finish. Best from 2025 through 2040. 1,000 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Hickinbotham’s 2019 The Peake Cabernet Shiraz is a 56-44 blend of the two varieties, aged in around 50% new French oak. Blended from selected barrels, it ratchets up the intensity even further than the Trueman Cab or Brooks Road Shiraz, while also adding additional layers of complexity. The herbal notes of the Cab are there but toned down, the cassis and blackberry notes of the two varieties complement each other, and the vanilla and cedar shadings are beautifully integrated into the wine. Full-bodied, concentrated and richly textured, it’s expansive yet structured and long and elegant on the finish. Give it another couple of years in the cellar and drink it over the next two decades.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPDelivers a gorgeous, generous mix of velvety dark chocolate-covered cherry, red licorice and mocha as well as hints of fresh mint, huckleberry and boysenberry at the core. This wine’s power is matched by refinement and a long, expressive finish, where spicy notes linger. Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. Drink now through 2035. 445 cases made, 229 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSA glossy, vanilla-and-spiced oak sentinel stands guard over this Cab-Shiraz blend from a top McLaren Vale vineyard. It’s not wholly intrusive, but it makes itself known, as do the characteristics of supple dark berry fruit and chocolate with undertones of mint and spice. The palate is equally rich and broad shouldered, with plump, concentrated fruit and spicy, powerful but well-placed tannins. An infant now, it should age gracefully and slowly. Drink 2024 until well into the 2030s.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

The 2019 Brega is more open and expressive, with gorgeous kirsch, herbes de Provence, pepper, and leather-like aromatics, and it’s full-bodied, has a broad, layered mouthfeel, plenty of tannins, and a great finish.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDA bold and ripe garnacha with some nicely baked red cherries and strawberries, with some white pepper spices. Nice texture on the medium- to full-bodied palate, showing close-knit, chalky tannins and a ripe, but juicy finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 92 JSThis dark-violet-colored wine has a bouquet of blackberry, purple plum, clove and vanilla. Silky smooth on the palate, it offers Mission fig, black-cherry, clove, eucalyptus and milk-chocolate flavors wrapped in a web of plush tannins that glide into a enduring finish.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEA harmonious red, with fine, crisp tannins providing trim definition to concentrated flavors of black cherry reduction, Kalamata olive, wild herbs and milled pepper. Long and fresh on the palate, with mineral accents on the finish. Drink now through 2029. 1,650 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSAn unashamedly big and powerful wine, appealing to those who prefer their wines rich and oaky. This is from the Jorge Ordónez-owned Bodegas Breca, from two very old plots planted in 1900 and 1918. With smoky bacon, woody spice and layers of red fruits, the wine is high in alcohol but not driven by it.Decanter | 90 DEC

Showing intensity and elegance, the delicious Padelletti 2019 Brunello is a stunner, starting with enticing aromas of dog rose, violet, forest berry, dark spice, crushed mint and a whiff of flint. On the linear, precise palate, a backbone of firm but refined tannins and bright acidity support juicy red cherry, orange zest, licorice and tobacco. Lay this down for several more years and you’ll be rewarded with even more complexity. Drink 2028–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOTo the northeast of Montalcino, tucked just beneath the town, Padelletti’s vineyards sit on limestone-rich calcareous clay. The Brunello is fermented in lined cement vats with indigenous yeast and aged in French and Slavonian oak casks. Emblematic of the 2019 vintage, this appears delicate at first then bursts into a floral frenzy of peony, freesia and red currant blossoms. Behind all that prettiness, the palate packs a sneaky punch. Compact, chalky tannins provide the architecture for ageing. Seamlessly knit, they could soften more. Beautiful clarity of raspberry and rose is amplified by radiant acidity, and the finish goes on and on. Exquisite Sangiovese buoyancy.Decanter | 96 DECThe Padelletti 2019 Brunello di Montalcino shows hints of dried herb and ripe fruit over a nicely concentrated mouthfeel. This wine shows a classic fruit profile with bold cherry followed by underbrush, rose and earth all delivered over a mid-weight palate with fine tannins. This bottle gives you a very representative view onto Brunello and Sangiovese.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a pretty blend of dusty rose, strawberries and flowery undergrowth, which is airy, floral and fresh. This washes across the palate like a wave of pure silk, vividly fruit-focused yet harmonious, with vibrant acidity and crisp red fruits that cascade beneath a sweet air of inner florals. The 2019 finishes staining and long with grippy tannins that tug at the cheeks yet never tire as licorice hints fade.Vinous Media | 93 VMFlourishing, lifted red and purple flowers, followed by red cherries, brambles and a hint of rosemary. Medium-bodied with fine tannins. Vibrant yet delicate and elegant, despite the young tannins. Hint of balsamic at the end. Try after 2026.James Suckling | 92 JS

Pine forest, new leather, violet and underbrush form the enticing nose on the intriguing 2019 Brunello from Talenti. Smooth and full-bodied, the palate is already delicious but will be even better in a few years, featuring ripe plum, spiced blueberry, licorice and crushed mint accompanied by taut, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Give it a few more years to fully develop. Drink 2027–2037. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOIn the bottle with the black label, the Talenti 2019 Brunello di Montalcino (with 35,000 bottles produced) is a wine of above average intensity, and it shows a steady delivery of dark aromas with blackcurrant, pitted plum, potting soil and a pungent fragrance that recalls black baccara rose. This is a rich and open-knit Brunello with velvety tannins and a full-bodied mouthfeel. This is your proverbial meat-and-potatoes Brunello to serve on a winter evening (a few years from now).Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino opens slowly with a blend of savory herbs, worn leather, dried roses and cinnamon-dusted currants. This flows across the palate with textures of pure silk, racy yet refined, with a seamless wave of ripe red fruits that slowly saturate toward the close. It finishes long and staining yet harmonious. Crunchy tannins frame the experience without slowing its momentum as licorice and orange notes gradually fade. This fantastic, high-energy rendition of Talenti’s Brunello will thrive over ten to fifteen years of cellaring.Vinous Media | 94 VMRipe, sweet cherry, raspberry and iron flavors highlight this firm, succulent red, which is big on personality, with a broad swath of tannins matched by vibrant acidity and persistent fruit. This is balanced overall, with a long, resonant aftertaste. Best from 2027 through 2043. 2,582 cases made, 466 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSDisplaying a youthful red/magenta color, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino is sunny and inviting with aromas of sweet berries and some blue fruit coming through on the nose, along with violets, cola, and pine. Approachable and open, it has a medium to full-bodied frame, plush tannins, and a rounded mid-palate. It displays good length and is a great offering that can be enjoyed now or over the next 10-15 years. This is a super solid value, and I would gladly enjoy it on my table.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDPerfumed, with red berries, cherries and a hint of rose stem in the nose. Medium-bodied with lots of wood and richness. Chewy and slightly austere, but it should soften with age and come together. Try after 2026.James Suckling | 93 JSWildly fragrant on the nose, smells expressive with plenty of red fruit and floral scents with touches of coffee liqueur, tobacco and sweet leather. Clean and pure, a little tightly wound right now not giving too much expansion on the palate, the oak feels a little intrusive perhaps just shutting down some of the more forward fruit flavours. Narrow tight frame, tapers and just loses some propulsion. It’s clean with precision and there’s some juiciness with chalky grippy tannins.Decanter | 92 DEC

The 2019 Pinot Noir The Sum has a medium ruby color and takes time to reveal scents of red and black cherries, tangerine peel, pipe tobacco, potpourri and licorice. The medium-bodied palate is powdery and energetic with expansive, savory fruits and a long, layered finish that hints at more to come. Intense and complex without any extra weight, this expressive Pinot Noir deserves another 2-3 years in bottle to unwind.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2019 Pinot Noir The Sum utilizes 50-60% whole clusters and is fresh with red raspberry, cinnamon, and fresh herbs. The palate is dry and medium-bodied, with grenadine, orange peel, and baking spice. Drink 2023-2033.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDI like the earthy sous-bois character here, with notes of dried flowers, mulberries, spiced cherries, mushrooms and truffles. Medium-bodied, sleek and savory, with fine-grained tannins and a spicy, long finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSTense and dynamic, with deeply structured wild berry, crushed stone and dusky spice flavors that build toward broad-shouldered tannins. Hands off for now. Best from 2024 through 2031. 492 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Slightly deeper hued, the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Des Felix is based on 60% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre, 5% Syrah, and the rest a mix of varieties and sees a slightly longer élevage in demi-muids (30%) and very old barrels (70%). Blackcurrants, roasted herbs, gamey meats, tobacco, and ground pepper are just some of the nuances here, and this beauty hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a deep, concentrated mid-palate, and building, substantial tannins. Despite all the structure here, it stays balanced and is a sensational bottle of wine. It’s going to need 5-7 years to hit the early stages of maturity and will have 25 years or more of prime drinking. Readers looking for gorgeous, classic, traditional Châteauneuf du Pape need look no further.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDFuller and more rounded than the Tradition from the same producer. Intense impact, bright, fresh and immediate. Very well-integrated stem use giving a subtle herbal vein and an intense feeling of savouriness. A long, very straight style. Direct, tense and sapid. Very dry.Decanter | 95 DEC

I loved the 2019 Gigondas Les Hautes Garrigues, one of the finest vintages of this cuvée under the helm of Benjamin Gras. Medium ruby-hued, with gorgeous meaty, peppery, Provençal aromatics, it needs plenty of air, and while it started out closed and reticent, it blossomed with time and shines for its purity and complexity. Full-bodied on the palate, with a concentrated mid-palate, flawless balance, and a great finish, it’s going to benefit from 2-4 years of bottle age and keep for two decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDDeep ruby. Displays intensely perfumed red and blue fruit preserves, licorice, exotic spice, potpourri, smoky minerals and cured meat scents. Stains the palate with sweet boysenberry, cherry-cola, fruitcake and black cardamom flavors that smoothly meld depth and vivacity. Round, even tannins lend shape to the impressively long finish, which strongly repeats the floral and mineral notes.Vinous Media | 96 VM

The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Maestro Raro is a lovely expression with deep layers of dark fruit and savory spice that are woven tightly together to form a solid core of primary and secondary flavors. This vintage is especially tight and concentrated, showing terrific balance and freshness and impeccable fruit ripeness that is generous and full. There are no green elements in this vintage. Instead, the fruit is beautifully rich and velvety.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2019 Maestro Raro is impressive. Dark, layered and striking in its completeness, Maestro Raro is endowed with terrific depth and sheer resonance. Black cherry, plum, menthol, licorice, spice and grilled herbs infuse the 2019 with considerable depth.Vinous Media | 95 VMBeautiful aromas of currants and fresh herbs with some green coffee bean. Medium to full body with firm, chewy tannins and a flavorful finish. Needs time to soften and come together. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 94 JSA savory red, exhibiting eucalyptus, bell pepper, sage, tobacco and earth notes allied to black cherry and plum fruit. Gains a chewy feel on the finish, thanks to dusty tannins. Best from 2024 through 2035. 750 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Aromas of truffle, oak-driven spice and ripe dark-skinned fruit lead the nose. On the full-bodied, delicious palate, tightly-woven, velvety tannins and fresh acidity accompany raspberry compote, baked plum, vanilla and black licorice. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 13.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Amore e Magia reminds me more of an exotic herbal tea than wine, as hints of incense and jasmine give way to spiced blood orange. This soothes with its silky textures and cool acidity. Ripe wild berry fruits smooth over the palate, contrasted by a touch of orange toward the close. Its tannins come through in the finish, grippy and edgy, adding a classically dry sensation as suggestions of tart cranberry fade under rosy inner florals. Patience will be required; this is a strapping, young Brunello that flaunts its southern roots.Vinous Media | 95 VMYouthful red/ruby in color, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Amore & Magia offers a fantastic layered and pure nose of dried cranberries, leather, turned earth, orange peel, and clove. Medium-bodied, it’s refined and mouthwatering, with vibrant energy, fine tannins, a soft, stony texture, and a clean finish. It floats on the palate and is a fantastic offering from the estate. Drink 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDShowing maturing notes of mushroom and woodsy underbrush, this red also reveals ripe cherry, strawberry, almond, iron and sanguine flavors. Firm enough yet approachable, with fine overall balance and length. Drink now through 2039. 1,100 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSLots of bright, very ripe red-berry character to this medium-bodied red with a light but firm tannin framework to the palate. But the fresh fruit pushes through to the end. Turns savory just at the end. Needs a year for better overall integration. Try from 2022.James Suckling | 92 JSLe Ripi’s CEO and head winemaker, Sebastian Nasello is not averse to taking risks in the cellar and while the wines have character, they are not always technically perfect. Case in point, a touch of Brett pokes through in the 2019, diffusing the aromas. Some red plum, sweet herbs and coffee eventually come into focus. That red fruit is at the fore on the palate, heightened by bitter chinotto and salty minerals. Large-grained tannins are pixelated and felt all over the mouth. The whole remains light on its feet. Not for classicists.Decanter | 91 DECThe Podere le Ripi 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Amore e Magia (with 13,000 bottles produced) comes from a three-hectare site with rich white-clay soils. This wine is firm and structured with powdery tannins and medium-rich fruit weight. It offers a classic mouthfeel, but like some of the other wines in this flight, I wonder about the integrity of the bouquet that has savory aromas and even a hint of latex or natural rubber.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

The iconic San Giusto a Rentennano 2019 La Ricolma remains one of the most important Merlot-based wines made in Italy—and the world, for that matter. This vintage reveals rich texture and tightly knit concentration that is layered with black cherry, earth, spice and sweet oak. These various elements are beautifully balanced against one another. This is a massively beautiful, full-bodied wine released with just 3,790 bottles. Like the other releases from this estate, it is certified organic.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPThe 2019 La Ricolma is a dark, sumptuous wine. Black cherry, plum, licorice, cloves and incense power through. Ricolma, like the other 2019s, needs time to open, as it is quite compact and tannic at this early stage. There’s good depth in the glass, if not quite the finesse of recent years. The 2019 spent 22 months in French oak, 20-25% new.Vinous Media | 96 VMA supple red, packed with bright, pure flavors of blackberry, black cherry, plum and oak spices. Reveals an interwoven mineral streak, with a long, focused finish. Best from 2025 through 2042. 200 cases made, 35 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2019 Percarlo is a wine of reserve. There’s terrific purity to the fruit and fine tannins for the year, but also a bit of firmness that needs time to resolve. Bright red-toned fruit, cedar, tobacco, licorice, blood orange and spice open nicely to play off those vibrant tannins. I imagine the 2019 will need a number of years to be at its best. The 2019 spent 22 months in a combination of 30HL casks and 500L in tonneau. Production is down about 25%.Vinous Media | 97 VMTaking a similarly dark ruby hue, the 2019 Percarlo is a little slower initially to reveal its aromas of candied raspberry, fresh leather, sweet earth, and polished cedar. Although it’s medium-bodied, it penetrates and saturates the palate with pure concentration of fruit, ripe tannins, and a fantastically long and elegant finish, with a hint of warmth and orange peel citrus. Even all the way through, this is another remarkable wine from the team at San Giusto di Rentennano that has the potential for serious longevity over the coming 15 to 20 years, so readers should be in no rush to open it.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDOne of the most celebrated expression of Sangiovese on the market today is the San Giusto a Rentennano 2019 Percarlo. This organic wine has a hint of extra ripeness or richness that transcends the bouquet. You feel as if you can bite into the fruit, and indeed the 2019 vintage is recognized by its unique power and density (with a 15% alcohol content). It’s a lot to take in, and there is enough lasting fiber and fruit power to fuel a long drinking window. This is one of the bigger and more opulent editions of Percarlo I have tasted.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPA vibrant, finely knit red, featuring black cherry, blackberry and plum fruit accented by iron, wild herbs and spices. Taut and linear, with a silky texture, lingering finish and resonant tannins. Shows terrific energy that builds from the beginning to the long, complex aftertaste. Best from 2025 through 2045. 1,375 cases made, 300 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

The 2019 Barolo Pira is powerful and deep, but also very closed. There’s so much energy here, but readers will have to be patient, as this classically austere young Barolo clearly needs time. Hints of pine, menthol, licorice and dried herbs appear with some reluctance. I would not dream of touching a bottle anytime soon. Superb.Vinous Media | 97 VMA distinctive white pepper aroma leads off, followed by flavors of strawberry, sour cherry, mint, menthol and iron. Despite the lightness and ethereal quality, the texture reveals viscosity and intensity. Balanced and complex, ending with terrific length. Best from 2027 through 2045. 886 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS