Wines with Age

wines

(Château Mouton Rothschild) This was a good solid bottle of ’66 Mouton, which has always been my favorite between the ’62 and the ’70. There was a time fifteen years ago when I crossed paths with this wine very often, as it offered much better value than the 1970, but as the market has realized the sleeper status of this vintage of Mouton, its price has risen commensurately. The nose is complex and classy, offering up notes of red currants, cherries, woodsmoke, tobacco, a bit of old Rioja-like nuttiness, ginger and cedar. On the palate the wine is medium-full, complex and resolved, with solid acidity, melting tannins, and a good, long, clean finish of impressive balance. Fine juice, though this particular bottle lacked just a touch of vibrancy vis à vis the best bottles I have crossed paths with. (Drink between 2005-2020)John Gilman | 91 JGThis review may be generous, but I have always liked this wine, even though it borders on being slightly too dry, austere, and restrained. Nevertheless, the dark garnet color and classic sweet, spicy, tobacco, coffee, and black currant aromas are enticing. The wine still has powerful tannin in the finish, which contributes to the dry, austere character this example has always exhibited. One of the more intellectually-styled Moutons, the 1966 is a classic example of the vintage, as well as of the chateau's Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated style. Anticipated maturity: Now-2008. Last tasted 10/97Robert Parker | 90 RP

The first offering in what turned out to be a remarkable decade for this property, the 2000 Clos Fourtet was the finest wine produced here in many years, but it was subsequently eclipsed by the 2003, 2005, 2008, and 2009. The dense plum/purple-tinged 2000 exhibits notes of wet rocks, camphor, blackberries, and cassis. Full-bodied with tremendous density, it appears to have shed much of its tannin, and is through its adolescent stage. It should continue to evolve effortlessly for another decade.Robert Parker | 93 RPRipe and thickly layered, with boysenberry and fig paste flavors taking the lead, pushed by some hefty ganache and black licorice notes. The finish has an ample roasted apple wood injection holding sway, though there's good underlying cut thanks to a buried chalky minerality. Still seems like this will rely more on extraction in the end.—Blind 2000 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2015). Drink now through 2023. 4,580 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSNo written reviews provided | 90 W&SThis was the last vintage at Clos Fourtet under the ownership of the Lurtons. They made fine wine, but the potential of the property was never quite realized. The wine just fails to excite: it is rich and concentrated with ripe tannins and some sweetness, but at the same time, there is a layer of acidity and structure which gives the wine a firm, solid shape.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

The warmth of the year comes through in a fatter more velvety texture than you find in many Haut-Baillys, and in its clearly generous autumnal berry fruit, deep black pepper, liquorice and saffron spice. All this is set alongside pulsing aromatics, and a juicy finish that shows the fruit was ripe but not overripe. Excellent, easy to recommend in what was a challenging vintage where terroir absolutely shone through. Drinking Window 2020 - 2038.Decanter | 93 DECThe warm vintage of 2003 gives this loads of fruit, like raspberries and strawberry jam. Full-bodied and very fresh with soft, round tannins. A long and yummy wine. Delicious now but please wait to pull the cork until at least 2013.James Suckling | 93 JSI remember being worried about how well the 2003 Haut-Bailly would turn out, but it has aged beautifully. Made from a final blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc, it currently offers fresh tobacco leaf, red and black currant notes, and hints of burning embers and charcoal. Having put on weight over the last eleven years, it is more complete and fuller than I expected. Enjoy this pretty, luscious, fully mature 2003 over the next decade.Robert Parker | 91 RP

Beautiful aromas of plums, soy, black currants, black raspberries, espresso, and spring flowers jump from the glass of this perfumed, dense plum/ruby/purple-tinged Pomerol. Medium to full-bodied and pure with sweet tannin and impressive extract, it will benefit from 2-3 more years of bottle age, and should last for an additional two decades.Robert Parker | 93 RPThere’s no denying the dense, rather massive core of raspberry, blackberry and boysenberry confiture flavors here, but the core is already showing a lightly dried edge. The finish picks up mulling spice, cocoa and melted licorice notes that compensate for that, but I feel like this is burning the candle at both ends, relying more on oomph than precision.—Blind 2000 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2015). Drink now through 2023. 2,330 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Seven years ago I said this was a monumental wine, and at two different recent tastings, it was a true star of the vintage. Its stunning dark plum color offers up notes of caramelized red and black fruits, toffee, smoke, Asian plum sauce, sweet cherries, chocolate, and espresso. Its spectacular aromatics do not disappoint on the palate, as this multi-dimensional, highly complex, opulent wine seems to have hit a magical point in its evolution. Full-bodied, and concentrated, there is no issue with drinking this dazzling effort now, but those who own it can certainly cellar it for another 15 or more years. Bravo!Robert Parker | 96 RPThis is a ripe and intense red with a layered and intense character of chocolate and dried tomatoes. Full-bodied, layered and spicy with cloves and dried thyme. Very flavorful.James Suckling | 95 JSThis is rather dramatic, with lush, layered blackberry puree and mocha notes that just keep going and going, picking up juicy black licorice and Black Forest cake flavors along the way. This has the spine to pull it off but is really for the all-hedonism-only crowd.--Blind 2000 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2015). Drink now through 2025. 1,250 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSFull ruby-red. Superripe, alluring aromas of raspberry, cherry liqueur, mocha, coffee, game, violet and truffle. Thick, concentrated and sexy, with perfectly integrated acidity giving the wine uncanny vivacity and lightness of touch considering its great ripeness and richness. Underlying minerality contributes to the impression of precision. Very intensely flavored and long on personality. An utterly captivating drink.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Now extinct, as this tiny 2.6-acre micro-vineyard was absorbed into Chateau Pavie, the 2000 La Clusiere (100% Merlot) was bestowed a perfect score seven years ago, and I see no reason to change that as it remains a monumental effort. Aromas of creme de cassis, blueberry liqueur, charcoal, licorice, and graphite are followed by a stunningly rich, full-bodied, elegant, pure, gentle giant of a wine. Approaching full maturity, it should age effortlessly for another 30+ years. Kudos to proprietor Gerard Perse.Robert Parker | 100 RPGood medium ruby. Superripe but lively aromas of kirsch and chocolate. Sweet, sappy and full, with high-toned flavors of cherry, blackberry and licorice. This offers compelling sweetness and concentration of flavor without going over the top, thanks to its firm mineral spine. Lively and very long on the finish. Bottled without filtration in February of this year.Vinous Media | 93 VMA big and smoky wine, with lots of oak and vanilla character, as well as ripe fruit. Full-bodied and chewy. A bit exaggerated, but very impressive. Modern and oaky Merlot, and I like it. Still not in bottle in early December.Wine Spectator | 89-92 WS

Everyone at the tasting where this wine was presented was rocked (or should I say shocked) by the greatness of this wine. It needs no defense. I rated it 96 seven years ago, and it comes from a beautiful vineyard in Pessac-Leognan near Haut-Bergey. Made by Helene Garcin and her winemaking team at the time, Michel Rolland and Jean-Luc Thunevin (now replaced by Dr. Alain Raynaud), 650 cases of this wine were produced. It has a deep, opaque bluish/purple color and a gorgeously sweet nose of incense, asphalt, blueberry liqueur, coffee, bacon fat, and a hint of meat juices. Full-bodied and dense, with silky tannins but enormous richness, length, and texture, this is a stunner to drink now or to age for another two decades.Robert Parker | 97 RPGood full medium ruby. Expressive aromas of black cherry, raspberry, coffee, tobacco and smoky oak. Sweet, juicy and firm, with ripe acids contributing to an impression of structure. Today this shows more spine than the 2001. Bright, sexy wine, with a finishing flavor of woodsmoke. Prior to 2000, the fruit used in Branon went into Haut-Bergey. This vintage enjoyed the attentions of both Michel Rolland and Jean-Luc Thunevin.Vinous Media | 92 VMThis has nice vibrancy, with a core of red and black currant fruit notes streaking along, carried by tarry but fresh structure and backed by a long, warm cast-iron finish. Still youthful too.--Blind 2000 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2015). Drink now through 2023. 500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Elegant and refined, offering lots of lovely aromas and flavors of cherry, berry and roasted meat. Full in body and very silky in tannins. Try in 1997.--Canon vertical.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Classic Pauillac aromas of rich, thick currant and black cherry with distinct cedary flavors that are very concentrated and wrapped in firm tannins. Beautifully focused and built for the long haul. Can stand until at least 1997 or maybe 1998.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe 1986 Mouton Baronne Philippe was the previous name for Château d'Armailhac, adopting its present title in 1989. It has a very fresh and lively bouquet, more vital and precise than the 1986 Clerc-Milon. This is a real surprise: lifted blackberry laced with tar and cedar. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins not unlike the 1986 Mouton-Rothschild. Of course, there is not nearly the same level of complexity, but you could regard it as a younger sibling, which is no surprise as the terroir is at the end of the Mouton-Rothschild terroir. If you ever see a bottle of this at auction or on a restaurant list, grab it. Tasted September 2016.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 90 RP-NM

This is more robust in colour than the (half bottle of) 1998, and still has good tannic hold. A dip appears in the mid palate though and it's not got the depth of expression that you will find in some of the best 2000 Pomerols right now. But, this is sappy with liquorice, rich black cherry, tobacco and gentle slow roasted spices, enjoyable and accomplished. Drinking Window 2020 - 2028Decanter | 90 DEC

Wonderful aromatics of walnut, leather, soft truffles, touches of cloves, this is a perfect wine for the winter months. The high acidity maintains freshness and backbone but there is a definite tertiary feel at this point with autumnal raspberry and blackberry fruits. It's gentle and welcoming with the elegant edge that Issan does so well. Feels like an old friend and practically begs you to stop what you are doing and open a book. A yield of 36hl/ha. 50% new oak. Drinking Window 2020 - 2034.Decanter | 94 DECFully mature, the 2000 D’Issan is a quintessentially elegant, yet concentrated, aristocratic Margaux that defines the appellation. The wine has a dark ruby/purple color just beginning to lighten at the edge. Notes of charcoal, acacia flowers, black raspberries, and blue fruits are followed by a medium to full-bodied wine that builds incrementally on the palate. With its outstanding purity, richness, elegance and length, this is a beauty that has reached its window of maturity, where it should stay for another 15 or more years.Robert Parker | 93 RPChâteau d’Issan produced a very good wine in the 2000 vintage, but it is still several years away from starting to blossom and drink with generosity. The deep and still quite primary nose delivers scents of cassis, tar, herb tones, cigar smoke, coffee bean and a bit of toasty new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and potentially complex, with a rock solid core, firm tannins, very good focus and a long, youthfully muscular and chewy finish. Like a great many examples of the 2000 vintage in Bordeaux, this wine is completely hunkered down at the present time and is a bit sullen, but it should prove to be very good with sufficient bottle age. Just how much charm it will eventually deliver is still an open question, but that is a question that really should be asked of the vintage in general! Drink between 2020-2060.John Gilman | 92 JGNo written reviews provided | 92 W&S

The 2001 Calon-Ségur has a delightful bouquet, very pure and a little more vivacious than the preceding vintage, featuring lovely brambly red fruit, rose petals, autumn leaves and a touch of cigar box, all well defined and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a little more cohesive than the 2000, and slightly granular in texture, with a graceful, elegant and quite persistent finish. This is one of the few châteaux where it’s difficult to choose between the 2001 and 2000. Drinking perfectly now.Vinous Media | 94 VM(Château Calon-Ségur) The 2001 Calon-Ségur was comprised of fully forty-seven percent merlot, which is too bad, as it might have been even finer with a higher percentage of cabernet sauvignon in the blend. That said, this is a very strong bottle from this era and I have little doubt that it will ultimately surpass the more highly-touted, but currently far more closed 2000 vintage at this property. The bouquet offers up a very promising blend of red and black cherries, cigar smoke, dried eucalyptus, gravel, cigar ash and cedary wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nascently complex, with a classic claret profile, firm, ripe tannins, excellent focus and balance and a very long, youthful and potentially superb finish. This should prove to be one of the strongest vintages produced in the more merlot-centric style at Calon-Ségur during the stretch from 1975 to 2005. (Drink between 2022-2050).John Gilman | 92 JGShowing beautifully, the 2001 Calon-Segur is now fully mature, yet should hold at this stage for another decade or two. Beautiful currants and assort dark fruits, notes of lead pencil, tobacco, and forest floor, medium to full body, and integrated, silky tannins all define this elegant 2001 that’s a joy to drink today. It’s not going to get any better, but it’s a beautifully regal Claret that offers loads of pleasure.Jeb Dunnuck | 91 JDI suspect this 2001 will shut down (as most young Calon-Segurs do), although it appears more forward and evolved than the huge, backward, but totally dormant 2000. The plum/ruby-colored 2001 reveals aromas of damp earth, cranberries, cherries, herbs, and forest floor. While lighter than its older sibling, it is medium-bodied, elegant, and should emerge from its post-bottling sleep in 4-5 years, and drink well for 14-15. Think of it as a lighter-weight 1988 (one of the stars of the vintage).Robert Parker | 90 RPElegant and spicy, with blackberry and earth character. Medium- to full-bodied, with silky tannins and a medium to long finish. Not quite up to par with the barrel sample, but outstanding. Best after 2006.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Opulence and richness, with all the generosity of Merlot, are the hallmarks of this superb wine. It is huge and powerful and has enormous potential. What is so exceptional about this wine is that all its power is still to be revealed. In 10 years time, it will prove to be one of the stars of the vintage in Saint-Emilion.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThis elegant, fully mature 2000 St.-Emilion reveals notes of roasted herbs, sandy, loamy soil, black currants, cassis, and a hint of incense. Medium-bodied and pure with outstanding harmony and freshness, it should last for another decade or more.Robert Parker | 91 RPHas a lightly leathery, old-school edge, with a mild loamy note weaving through as well, while the core of steeped plum and black currant fruit notes is showing a fair amount of maturity already. Nice twinges of espresso and bay through the finish.—Blind 2000 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2015). Drink now through 2020. 6,665 cases made. — JMWine Spectator | 90 WS

This was the finest performance by this wine that I have seen since it was released. I did not expect the 2003 Chateau Margaux to show this well in a vintage where the southern part of the Medoc was clearly less impressive than the north. However, it is a beautiful, dark plum/purple-tinged effort with sensational aromatics, a full-bodied mouthfeel, and a youthfulness, precision and freshness that belie what one generally associates with this vintage. It can be drunk now and over the next 15-20 years. Kudos to Chateau Margaux.Robert Parker | 98 RPA wine with spices, meat, and very ripe fruit on the nose, with hints of dried flowers. Full bodied, and deeply layered, with loads of fruit and spices. Long and decadent, very complex. Pull the cork after 2013. Find the wine.James Suckling | 97 JSFull, saturated red-ruby. Knockout nose combines redcurrant, tropical chocolate, leather, woodsmoke and nutty oak with exotic chocolate mint and coffee liqueur; still manages to retain floral lift even in this beastly vintage. Then wonderfully fat, sweet and full, even if it comes across as almost heavy following the ineffable 2005 and 2004 examples. But "relatively inelegant" for Margaux still suggests a degree of refinement that few chateaux can match in the greatest vintages. A hugely rich and dense wine that finishes with elevated but ripe tannins and great length, with a subtle suggestion of dry spices. Pontallier says the terroir will take over in 20 years, "like with the ’82." Splendid.Vinous Media | 96 VMThis may be from the exceptional vintage of 2003, but Château Margaux remains true to form. First and foremost, it is a refined, elegant wine, with complex layers of flavors. But, yes, the hot summer is there the dense, dry tannins, but somehow they seem to float through the wine rather than sitting heavily in the middle. Acidity and freshness come to finish, giving the wine a delicious lift. Imported by Diageo Chateau & Estates.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEShows a note of torrefaction typical of the vintage, but uses it to its advantage, coupling it with accents of ganache and dark tobacco leaf along with rich plum, currant and fig compote flavors. The finish is slightly firm, with alder and plum skin details, but this has pretty impressive composure considering the vintage.-Blind ’01/’03/’05 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2017). Drink now through 2035. 10,833 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSNo written review provided. | 93 W&S

A complex nose of subtle menthol intermixed with black currants, cherries, spice box, cedar, and herbs emerges from this fully mature 1990. It is a fleshy, round, generously endowed Margaux with silky tannins, low acidity, and beautiful purity. Drink it with great pleasure now, or cellar it for another decade. Release price: ($300.00/case)Robert Parker | 94 RPThe 1990 Rauzan-Ségla is another vintage that I have not tasted for some time. It was picked from September 17 to October 7. Now at 28-years of age it shows some maturation on the tawny rim, the core a little lighter in colour than the 1998 for example. The bouquet has certainly matured in recent years: blackberry, strawberry pastilles, touches of garrigues, clove and fennel, and freshly tilled soil. It is very...1990! There is little oak presence here (the new oak was in fact just 40%, so unsurprising.) The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, slightly rustic tannin. I love the flavor profile here: dark chocolate, leather, clove, oregano and a touch of soy that is, for me, quite Saint-Julien in style. One can tell that this 1990 will not improve with continued bottle age however, it has great depth and you come away with the sense that it wears its heart on its sleeve. Tasted at the Rauzan-Ségla vertical at the château.Vinous Media | 93 VMVery concentrated. Dark garnet color. Pretty licorice, plum and currant aromas. Full-bodied, with velvety, ripe tannins and a long black licorice and cherry aftertaste.--1990 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2004. 11,250 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. This seems quite fleshy on the nose, just a touch of reduction at first although it blows away. Cranberry, strawberry, a touch of fig, then more secondary aromas coming through: saddle leather and Provencal herbs. The palate is medium-bodied, quite opulent and generous, silky smooth tannins but there is also real backbone to this wine. As always, this wine is masculine and broody at birth but now is coming into its own and lightening up. Red-berried fruits, a touch of pepper, orange zest, tightly coiled and pointed towards the finish. Great weight and grip on the finish. Superb. Drink 2013-2040. Robert Parker Neal Martin | 95 RP-NMI loved the 2000 Rauzan-Ségla, another mature yet balanced wine that shows the hallmark complexity and elegance of the estate. Beautiful currants, strawberries, lead pencil, and spice notes give way to a medium to full-bodied wine that has a layered texture, resolved tannins, and good mid-palate depth. I love its complexity, its seamless texture, and its great finish. This is a beautiful 2000 that’s drinking at point today yet will easily keep for another two decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDAt first taste, this wine seems more new world than Bordeaux. But then the subtle, perfumed aromas and structured fruit show through, along with the clean acidity and black tannic fruits. Give this wine at least 12 years before openingWine Enthusiast | 94 WENo tasting note provided. | 94 W&SThe 2000 Rauzan-Ségla is deep in color. The bouquet is similar to the bottle poured a couple of years ago, featuring blueberry and Provençal herbs, the secondary and primary scents commingling to wonderful effect. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and tarry black fruit, and quite structured and fresh, leading to a grippy, saline finish. A redoubtable, almost swarthy Margaux that should drink well for another 20 years or more. Superb.Vinous Media | 93 VMThis is just starting to open up on the nose with tobacco, plums and currants throughout. Full-bodied, with lots of tobacco and chocolate that turns to notes of coffee and fruit on the finish. The palate is just starting to come around. Why should you wait on this? The winemaker says that it will be better after 2012. Rich and slightly austere still at the finish.James Suckling | 93 JSThis is a bit grainy in feel, with ample cedar- and juniper-lined tannins carrying a mix of red and black currant, bay leaf and black tea flavors along before a tangy sanguine note captures the finish. Has character and charm, if a bit outpaced by the pack in general.—Blind 2000 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2015). Drink now through 2018. 8,330 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

One can’t say enough about this winery, which may still fly under the radar of most consumers. The fully mature 2000 displays gorgeous aromas of camphor, lead pencil shavings, unsmoked tobacco, plums, and black currants. With full body, a velvety texture, and beautiful weight, richness, and length, this superb wine should evolve, possibly improve for another 15 years. It’s a beauty!Robert Parker | 95 RPThe Cathiards have made a polished wine with generous fruit. It manages to combine a modern, rich style with a lightness of touch and freshness of fruit which make it instantly attractive.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEShowing a bit more maturity than some peers, this pushes singed cedar and smoldering alder flavors to the fore, along with well-mulled currant and fig fruit notes backed by a prominent tobacco edge on the finish. There’s a pretty sweetness of fruit here, even though this is fully into a secondary phase.—Blind 2000 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2015). Drink now through 2018. 8,330 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WSThis wine begins with a delicious nose of plums, berries, and hints of toasted oak on the nose. On the palate it is full-bodied and round, with some good fruit and a soft finish with lots of chocolate. This is ready, pull the cork soon.James Suckling | 90 JSGood full ruby. Roasted red and black fruits, smoke and licorice on the nose. Powerful, even a bit aggressive, with less sweetness and subtlety than the subsequent vintages. Finishes with big, chewy, ripe tannins and lingering notes of tobacco and leather. Very Graves in style. This appears to be in the process of shutting down in the bottle.Vinous Media | 90+ VM

This is a big upgrade for this spectacular micro-cuvee, a true garage wine from a 4.4-acre vineyard. A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, I always find Gracia to be reminiscent of Ausone. The dense, rich 2000 reveals notes of a spring flower garden intermixed with smoky barbecue meat, blackberries, black currants, and crushed rocks. The extraordinary perfume is followed by a wine of great depth and richness, full-bodied power, and not a hard edge to be found. This velvety blockbuster is just beginning to strut all its stuff, and should age easily for another 15+ years.Robert Parker | 96 RPBright medium ruby. Superripe, slightly medicinal kirsch aroma, complicated by licorice, earth and exotic oak tones. Plump and smooth, with impressively concentrated flavors of liqueur-like black raspberry and black cherry. Finishes with big, dusty, late-arriving tannins and a note of roast coffee. Considerably less primary than the 2001 and 2002 vintages, but undeniably sweet and fat.Vinous Media | 91 VM