Wines with Age

wines

Flowers, sweet tobacco and berries on the nose follow through to a full body, with silky tannins and a medium finish. Lovely mouthfeel. Lots of life ahead here, but delicious now. Still one of the best buys of the vintage.—'89/'99 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2009). Best after 2011. 16,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

A terrific wine for the vintage, Latour’s 1993 reveals an opaque purple color, a backward, cedar, black walnut, cassis, and earth-scented nose, medium to full body, gorgeously rich, concentrated fruit, moderately high tannin (but no astringency), and a sweet, long, powerful finish. The wine does not possess any of the vegetal, green pepper characteristics of the vintage, nor any hint of hollowness or harshness. This wine may prove to merit an even higher rating. Is this vintage the modern day clone of the 1967 and 1971? Anticipated maturity: 2007-2025. Last tasted 1/97Robert Parker | 90 RPSlightly oxidized with a coffee and spice character, as well as fruit. Medium body. Tea, tobacco and some fruit.James Suckling | 90 JS

Aromas of jam, berry and cherry follow through to a full-bodied palate, with fine yet round tannins and a long chocolate and berry aftertaste. Loads of sweet fruit here. Exciting stuff. This small producer makes fine wines. Best after 2008. 1,165 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSMade in a soft, but not over-ripe style, the deep ruby/plum-tinged 2003 reveals broad, sexy notes of vanilla, black cherry jam, dried herbs, and sweet currants. This fleshy, round, low acid, seductive, luscious effort will provide pleasure over the next decade. Only 1,250 cases were produced, and the 2003 tipped the scales at 13.5% alcohol.Robert Parker | 90 RPGood deep red-ruby. Captivating aromas of black raspberry, violet, minerals, smoke and nutty oak. Fat, broad and opulent but not overly sweet; manages to retain its typical aromatic quality even in this hot year, no doubt partly due to the fact that this wine gets minimal racking. Wonderfully easy to drink already and probably best suited for consuming over the next seven or eight years.Vinous Media | 90 VM

All elegance and fine texture. Beautiful aromas of milk chocolate and ripe berries. Full- to medium-bodied, with silky tannins and a sweet fruit, chocolate aftertaste. Hard to resist now.--1989 Bordeaux horizontal. Best after 2000.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Medium red-ruby. Confectionary aromas of raspberry, cocoa powder, mocha and sexy oak; more evolved than either the '99 or '98, even considering its extra year of age. Fat, sweet and harmonious; offers lovely balance but just misses out on the density and depth of a great year. Finishes with firm but very suave tannins; this must be one of the longest '97s.Vinous Media | 91 VMUndoubtedly a success for the vintage, this immensely charming, dark ruby/purple-colored wine exhibits floral, black currant, and smoky, toasty oak aromas. There is admirable richness, excellent ripeness, not a great deal of density, or superb concentration, but plenty of finesse, suppleness, and character. It can be drunk young, or cellared for 12-15 years.Robert Parker | 90 RPAll in finesse, with berry, currant and light vanilla character. Medium- to full-bodied, with silky tannins and a fresh finish. Lovely, long finish. Gorgeous core of fruit in this wine. Drink now through 2004.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

The 1998 Pontet Canet was made at a time when the property practiced green harvesting that began in 1994 but is not done today. “The changes were in the mind at this stage,” commented Jean-Michel Comme wryly. Initially it felt a little muddled on the nose but it gains focus with time. Eventually it offers straightforward blackberry, briary and cedar scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, crisp acidity, plenty of cedar and mint-laced black fruit with a pleasant, quite lively and lightly spiced finish that lingers in the mouth. This is a commendable 1998 from the château before they really began to embrace biodynamics. Tasted at the château.Vinous Media | 90 VM

Good full ruby-red. Knockout, complex nose offers vibrant aromas of raspberry, sour red cherry, strawberry, licorice and violet, complicated by white pepper and rose. Then moderately dense and fresh in the mouth, with delicately spicy notes of redcurrant, strawberry, licorice, coffee and minerals. This rather elegantly styled wine finishes bright and fresh, with firm, highly polished tannins. This midweight Cheval Blanc lacks the density and concentration of the better vintages, but it has an amazingly pure nose of cabernet franc (I'd score this 95 or more for its aromas) that is a joy to inhale. For those with deep pockets, it's also a fantastic food wine, and a simply amazing buy, since it will cost much less than many other more sought-after Cheval Blanc vintages.Vinous Media | 91 VM

Dark ruby color. Decadent aromas of meat, figs and ripe fruit. Full-bodied, with a very good, compacted, fruity structure and a long, long, ripe fruit and earth finish. This is a seriously good bottle. Great value. Love it.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

The 1996 Clos du Marquis is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon (lower than recent vintages), 33% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot (that usually goes into Leoville-Las Cases). Much like the 1996 Potensac that I tasted alongside at the château, the nose is youthful and backward with blackberry, freshly tilled soil, cedar and tobacco scents that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth entry, plenty of crisp and pure black fruit laced with cedar, harmonious and long. This is a great Saint Julien at 20 years of age, firing on all cylinders and, to be honest, surpassing some of the Grand Vins in this vintage. Probably still available at a decent price, this comes thoroughly recommended. Tasted July 2016.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 91 RP-NMBeautiful aromas of currant, lightly toasted oak and perfume. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a tight finish. Still holding back.--'95/'96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2008.Wine Spectator | 91 WSDeep ruby-red. Plum and roasted nuts on the nose. Large-scaled, vinous and deep; thick fruit is given clarity by sound acidity. Very long and subtle on the finish, with serious but harmonious tannins. An outstanding second label, as good as most classified growths from St. Julien.Vinous Media | 90 VM

This is a forgotten Pétrus. Good dark color, with lovely plum and light raspberry aromas. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a fresh, fruity finish. A beauty. Fresh and long. Slightly better than when I tasted it a few years back.--Pétrus non-blind vertical. Best after 2005.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThe backward 1997 (2,300 cases produced) needs 3-4 years of cellaring. The dense plum/ruby/purple color is accompanied by a closed bouquet of mocha, dried tomato skin, and black fruits. In the mouth, it is one of the most muscular 1997s, exhibiting outstanding concentration, length, intensity, and depth, copious tannin, and a fine mouth-feel. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2025.Robert Parker | 91 RPDeep red-ruby. Cherry, redcurrant, raspberry, toffee, minerals and iron filings on the nose. Opulent and deep, with a silky, mouthfilling texture and lovely caramel sweetness. Boasts outstanding length for the vintage. Suave and harmonious.Vinous Media | 91-92 VM

Fresh and focused, with violet, berry and cherry character. Medium body, with silky tannins and a clean finish. Best after 2007. 22,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

A terrific sleeper value, Stephan von Neipperg’s 2001 Clos de l’Oratoire boasts a deep blue/purple color as well as a rich nose of melted licorice, espresso roast, black currants, minerals, smoke, and earth. This opulent, medium-bodied St.-Emilion exhibits abundant quantities of fruit and glycerin along with a fleshy, ripe, expansive finish with no hard edges. Some tannin lurks beneath the surface, but this is a beautiful wine to drink now and over the next 10-12 years.Robert Parker | 90 RP

From a difficult vintage with destructive hailstorms and botrytis, the 2000 Cristal opens with an elegant and delicate bouquet with brioche, ripe apple, green olive and iodine aromas. Complex and very salty, with oyster and umami flavors, this is a generous and very long Cristal that is excellent with Japanese food, such as sashimi for example, as chef de cave Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon said during the tasting in New York in November 2018.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPSadly now in something of a lacklustre phase, but on first tasting this was delightfully sensual, seductively mellow and silkily replete with honey-toffee notes. At that stage the fruit was young and bursting with energy, with tones of spring flowers, gooseberries, papaya, redcurrants, pineapple and mango.Decanter | 95 DECRiper and richer than the 2002 Cristal, this wine has a substantial structure to hold its sensuous, pearlike fruit in place. Tropical notes of guava contribute to the vinous impression, as does the foresty mushroom savor. Haute couture to drink now, this will develop deeper complexities with age.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 94 W&SBright gold. Deep, subtly smoky nectarine and musky yellow plum aromas are energized by a suave mineral quality. Broad and fleshy, with deep, chewy pear, pit fruit and buttered toast flavors. A serious style, with velvety texture and excellent finishing punch. This has the concentration to repay cellaring but is open-knit enough to enjoy on the young side.Vinous Media | 92 VMThis is a lightweight Cristal, floating and fresh, without the punch this great wine can have from Pinot Noir. It is also way too young. To taste, there is good balance, but the persistent grapefruit flavor shows the wine’s youth.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEThis goes for personality and finesse. An assertive, honeyed style, with plenty of citrus flavors. Mature coffee and roasted nut accents are peeking through, with a robust structure and a dried citrus aftertaste. Drink now through 2025. 32,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

White peach, ripe grapefruit, lime, coconut, white flowers and smoky, vanillin oak on the nose. Ripe, sweet and supple, but comes across as quite firmly structured. Strongly spicy character on the very persistent finish. Very well balanced and harmonious.Vinous Media | 90 VMDisplays plum and berry aromas, with hints of decadent meat and currant. Full-bodied, with supersilky tannins and a long, rich finish. Lovely mouthfeel. Just right.—’89/’99 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2009). Drink now. 9,165 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Intense, almost harsh with zingy flavors. Showing more wood than the 1989, and less elegance, but it’s powerful and sharply focused.--Haut-Brion vertical. 800 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

No written review provided. | 92 W&SThe 1998 La Dominique replicates the fine performance it showed from magnum two weeks earlier. The bouquet offers blackberry, raspberry coulis, sage and truffle on the nose, a touch of mint developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, still fresh and cohesive with black fruit, tobacco, a touch of dark chocolate with a finish you might easily mistake for a Pomerol. There is just a note of dryness and linearity on the finish, at least in the bottle, but larger formats should still give lots of pleasure. Tasted at the vertical tasting at La Dominique.Vinous Media | 91 VMThe 1998 is a soft, fat, voluptuously-textured, opulent effort with a dense ruby/purple color, and gorgeous aromas of olives, black cherry jam, blackberries, chocolate, and espresso. This full-bodied wine is hedonistic, flashy, and nearly decadent in its display of luxurious fruit, high glycerin, and spice. Anticipated maturity: now-2015.Robert Parker | 90 RPSolid, with complex aromas of blackberry, violet and berry. Medium- to full-bodied, with silky tannins and a black olive and cherry aftertaste. Very good indeed. Best after 2005. 4,580 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WSThe 1998 Chateau La Dominique is a very good wine and one that strikes me as still straddling the line between the modernist and traditionalist camp for this vintage. It is not as deeply red fruity or complex as the beautiful wines made here in the 1982 and 1986 vintages, but neither is it as overtly powerful as the 1989 or more recent vintages. The bouquet is deep and complex, wafting from the glass in a fine blend of black cherries, menthol, cigar wrapper, dark soil tones, nutty new oak and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and quite suave on the attack, with a good core of ripe fruit, still some firm tannins and good length and grip on the complex and well-balanced finish. The perception of tannins on the backend here builds with air, so if one is inclined to drink the wine now, I would not leave it overly long in decanter prior to serving. It is a very good vintage for La Dominique. (Drink between 2022 - 2055)John Gilman | 90 JG

It has been several years since I last tasted the 1985 Vieux Chateau Certan. Back then I remarked that I would not cellar it too long, although this bottle suggests that there is some mileage left yet. Served blind, I remarked that it was a 1985 due to the fragrant perfume on the nose, still almost Burgundy-like, though the presence of the Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc lent it subtle earthiness. The palate is mellow, fully mature but very harmonious. Whilst it does not have the depth or the flamboyance of the top Pomerols from this vintage, there is a sensuality to this 31-year-old wine and there is beguiling purity on the finish. It is just a joy to drink. Tasted December 2016.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 90 RP-NMThe 1985 Vieux Château Certan is perhaps nearing the end of its drinking plateau. The mellow, loam-scented nose is a little loose-knit, and perhaps it can be seen as a lesser version of the 1989. I want more intensity, but make do with gravel and dried blood aromas that develop with aeration. This is not a deep or powerful Pomerol, but it conveys a sense of warmth, with a hint of black truffle on the finish and melted tannins. The 1985 is perfect to drink now, I would not be inclined to keep it too much longer.Vinous Media | 90 VMSoft and graceful, featuring smoky plum and cassis aromas and flavors, fles hy texture, complexity and length, with a hint of chocolate on the finish.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Beautifully balanced and refined in texture, this displays exotic ground spice and floral accents to the flavors of poached white peach, Meyer lemon and candied ginger, with hints of pastry and honey. Offers a lasting, mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2023. 2,917 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS(full malo; 9 g/l dosage; LAH9T): Light yellow-gold. Smoky citrus and orchard fruits on the deeply perfumed, mineral-tinged nose. Offers broad, toasty orange and pear skin flavors with an undercurrent of dusty minerals. Picks up floral and ginger nuances with air, along with hints of iodine and tarragon. Rich yet lively blanc de blancs with powerful back-end lift and finishing grip.Vinous Media | 92 VMWith its 100% Chardonnay, this Champagne is finely textured, elegant with minerality and the freshest crispest apple flavors. It does have some weight and certainly has intensity—a satisfying, textured wine that is ready to drink.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEIf chardonnay could be a red wine, it might have the red fruit flavors of this blanc de blancs. Perhaps it’s the floral aspects that turn its chamomile and yellow flower notes toward violets, or the deep earth tones adding color to the flavor. The fruit is persistent, sunny in the middle, then shaded by an almost tannic character to the lees that places the wine with food, particularly roast veal. Moët Hennessy USA, NYWine & Spirits | 92 W&SThis blanc de blancs (100% Chardonnay) is sourced mostly from the Côte des Blancs and Montagne de Reims, including a portion of premier cru vineyards. It has a lean, lemon and apple bite backed up by some smooth creaminess. It’s fuller in body than stablemate Veuve Clicquot, displaying good acidity and power. Dosage 9g/l.Decanter | 91 DECSuper curated reduction here, heading into slightly meaty territory with grapefruit, toasted lemon peel and hazelnuts. The palate is delivered in a smooth, sweet-fruited style with approachable peach flesh. Drink now.James Suckling | 91 JS(NV Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Brut NV (Reims)) The current release of Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs non-vintage Brut is fermented in stainless steel, goes through full malolactic and was finished off with a dosage of nine grams per liter. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a bright blend of lemon, apple, warm bread, a touch of smokiness, dried flowers and a lovely base of soil. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, crisp and focused, with brisk acids, frothy mousse, good cut and grip and a long, still fairly youthful finish. This has plenty of acidity, so its dosage comes across as lower than its nine grams. This will have no difficulty aging gracefully, but is already quite tasty. (Drink between 2016-2035)John Gilman | 91+ JGThis is a fabulous version of Ruinart’s NV Brut Blanc de Blancs. The wine seems fresher, more vibrant and less obviously sweet than in the past, all of which makes this a far more interesting wine. The trademark profile of lemon, jasmine and green apples is very much in the forefront while the wine’s textural finesse and length are both first-class. This release of the NV Brut makes a great introduction to the wines of Ruinart, Champagne’s oldest house. This is Lot LAGJSAF. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

The 2001 Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux has held up nicely over the past two decades. Brambly red fruit features on the nose, along with touches of undergrowth and rose petal, and orange peel percolates up with aeration in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle, pliant tannins. Soft in texture, maybe, yet well balanced and fresh with a graceful raspberry and cranberry finish, this Deuxième Vin continues to give pleasure.Vinous Media | 91 VM

The 1986 Latour has a deep ruby/purple color, and a moderately intense bouquet of mineral-scented, blackcurrant fruit intermixed with the classic walnut scents that seem to emerge from Latour’s well-placed vineyard. Although undoubtedly excellent, with medium to full body, fine concentration, and impressive length, by Latour’s standards, the wine is not as brawny, chewy, or as densely packed with fruit as I would have expected in a vintage when the Cabernet Sauvignon excelled. Nevertheless, this wine should easily last 20-25 years, but I do not see it taking its place as one of the many extraordinary wines that have been produced at this property. Anticipated maturity: 1996-2012. Last tasted, 5/93.Robert Parker | 91 RPOutstanding, but slightly unimpressive. Dark red color. Complex aromas of blackberries, dark chocolate, tar and minerals. Medium- to full-bodied and balanced, with fine tannins and a silky texture.--Bordeaux retrospective. Drink now.Wine Spectator | 90 WS