98-99 Point Wines

wines

The 2023 Clos des Chevaliers from Domaine Chartron was one of the most brilliant wines I tasted during my entire nearly three weeks in the cellars here in Burgundy. The wine is utterly brilliant on both the nose and palate, with the bouquet offering up a pure, beautifully complex and elegant blend of apple, pear, fresh almond, crème pâtissière, a complex foundation of limestone minerality, lemon blossoms, a refined framing of vanillin oak and a topnote of lemon zest. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and seamlessly balanced, with a great spine of acidity, a gorgeous core of fruit, great mineral drive and cut and a very, very long, vibrant finish. Pure magic. (Drink between 2030 - 2075)John Gilman | 98 JGThe delicious Clos du Chevalier is the top wine in the Chartron cellar, boasting intense aromas of lemon peel, mandarin and passionfruit, with nuances of acacia flower and a pronounced saline minerality. The texture is lively and vibrant but rich as well, with a superb balance between the extract and the racy acidity. The clos, a former monopole of the Chartron family, is above the Montrachet from Marquis de Laguiche; although they sold 0.16ha to Lalou Bize-Leroy for its Domaine d’Auvenay, Chartron still owns a half-hectare of Chevalier here. Cellar this for at least a decade before opening.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThe 2023 Chevalier-Montrachet Clos de Chevaliers Grand Cru is Charton’s best Grand Cru this year. Intense and flattering citrus fruit notes commingle with crushed stone and light undergrowth scents blossoming in the glass. The palate is fresh, vibrant, beautifully balanced and very harmonious with a long and tender finish. Cohesive and multi-layered, très bon vin!Vinous Media | 95-97 VMAn attractive pale colour with a lime streak. Pure and stylish on the nose, with the white limestone feel of classic Chevalier. The bouquet will express itself more later on, I suspect. On the palate, the terroir also reverberates, with a very fine-boned acidity alongside the nuanced white fruit and flowers, with just a little well-judged oak bringing up the rear. A high-class finish. Very distinguished. Drink from 2030-2037. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 94-97 JMA markedly more floral-suffused nose speaks of distinctly cool white orchard fruit aromas, mineral reduction, Asian-style tea and a lovely range of spice nuances. The gorgeously textured and notably denser medium weight plus flavors exude a prominent stoniness on the sappy bitter citrus-tined finale that goes on and on. Like the Clos du Cailleret, the mouthfeel is like sucking on a small pebble and overall, this superb Chevalier should amply reward extended cellaring.Burghound | 92-95 BH

Fantastic depth and length to this wine, showing aromas and flavors of sliced apples, stone, flint,matchstick and white pepper. It’s full-bodied and reserved, with very fine layers of bright fruit and minerals. Tight, structured and compact with a long finish. Already impressive, but best after 2027.James Suckling | 98 JSOpulent, creamy and expansive, this white fills the mouth, offering peach, apple, quinine and salty mineral flavors embraced by vanilla and toasty oak notes. There’s a tactile sensation, and this still lacks integration, yet all of the components are there, along with power and length. Best from 2027 through 2042. 3,800 cases made, 1,400 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSLatour’s 2023 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru wafts from the glass with notes of pear, mandarin oil and peach mingled with notes of struck match and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and seamless, it’s rich and textural, with a sweet, layered core of fruit and an expansive finish. Now bottled under Diam, it should age with grace.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPCool, pretty and attractively layered aromas include those of Granny Smith apple, spice, wet stone and a plentitude of citrus elements. There is both more volume and richness to the bigger-bodied flavors that exhibit good power on the balanced, sappy and moderately firm finale. This also could use better depth but that should develop in time.Burghound | 90-93 BH

The 2023 Syrah Coastview Vineyard is 100% whole cluster-fermented Syrah from a site deep in decomposed granite at high elevation. With only 600 bottles in existence, this is the best of the best from Coastview every year (and this cool-climate vintage gives it even more to love), with Smith using the rest to go into his Sandstone Terrace Syrah, which is equally tremendous. Structured with just a hint of fruit sweetness from the neutral oak, this is a remarkably memorable, lengthy, complex, and crazy good wine, explosive in feral, wild gamey characteristics in addition to bold complements of floral, savory, and even sanguine notes. Good luck not drinking it in one go, but it shows the aging potential to drink another 10-12 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDA delicate color in the glass, this fascinating Syrah presents elevated floral and peppery aromas on the nose, adding ethereal depth to the engagingly crisp pomegranate and rose petal aromas. The snappy palate pops with pomegranate and red currant flavors that float atop fennel, pepper and game elements.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEVivid and precise, this is ripe yet structured with mountain tannins. Black cherries, purple plums and bay laurel have a tea-like aspect, with cracked peppercorns, coriander seeds, olive tapenade, huckleberries and nervy acidity. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JS

Sourced from Pisoni Vineyard and brought up 16 months in 60% new French oak, the 2023 Chardonnay East Of Eden Pisoni Vineyard is light to medium gold-hued and offers exotic stone fruits, honeyed melon, spice, and some minty, herbal notes. Medium to full-bodied, it has a pure, layered crystalline mouthfeel, integrated acidity, and a fabulous finish. It’s a rich, powerful, serious Chardonnay that will keep for 8-10 years. Drink 2025-2035.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThe 2023 Chardonnay Pisoni Vineyard East of Eden is notably fresh for a Chardonnay from the Santa Lucia Highlands, where Chardonnay can tend to lack energy. A wine of deep mineral intensity and phenolic grip, the 2023 speaks firmly, with powerful inner tension and nerve lends a ton of textural intrigue. Lemony, chalky lift enlivens the finish. Another excellent 2023 white from Paul Lato.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The haunting bouquet of violets, forest floor, red beets and berries holds you in its gentle grip so that you have to force yourself to take a sip. But when you do, the combination of great concentration and finesse is truly breathtaking. Dazzling mineral freshness in the almost endless finish. Fermented and matured in concrete tanks. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2023 Morgon Côte du Py opens with a generous nose that is evocative of dark cherries, sous-bois, fresh eucalyptus and delicate florals. Medium to full-bodied and with ripe acidity, the wine strikes a harmonious balance between lift and depth, unfurling with a long, sustained presence and a layered mid-palate, with tightly wound fine-grained tannins forming the core that drives the wine. As it progresses, the wine narrows toward a focused and precise finish, imparting a satisfying sense of resolution. Beautifully crafted, this is a wine capable of enduring remarkably long cellaring, and one would be well-advised to grant it that patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93+ RPThe 2023 Morgon Côte du Py, located in the lieu-dit of Côte du Py, has a beautiful bouquet of dark berry fruit, black tea and mineral-laden bergamot. The palate is medium-bodied, fleshy and very harmonious with finely spun tannins. Its understated yet poised finish lingers in the mouth. Exquisite.Vinous Media | 93 VMAlmost black centre, with a lively purple rim. This is concentrated, well muscled, with its usual austere backbone, a complete Py for the medium term – and maybe longer. Certainly this is a very persistent Morgon. 13.9% alcohol. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Feb 2024.Jasper Morris | 91-92 JM

Dill, limes, green ginger and crushed stones on the nose. The palate is extreme, marked by intense mineral tension, pronounced salinity and a delicious severity that sets this wine apart from even the greatest chardonnays of the world. Incredibly fresh and mouthwatering. Spectacular. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2023 Chardonnay Adrianna Vineyard White Bones from Gualtallary, Tupungato, opens with clear notes of huacatay, chamomile and hops. It’s reminiscent of reductive Sauvignon Blanc and layered with green apple, mint and nutty notes. Compared to previous vintages, this is leaner and more vibrant, with fine, chalky grip and medium body. Just a gorgeous wine.Vinous Media | 98 VMThe 2023 Adrianna Vineyard Chardonnay White Bones leads with its quintessentially lifted, vibrant bouquet of citrus rinds, dried spices, white flowers and fresh herbs, continuously developing additional complexity from its biological aging under flor. The palate combines live-wire focus with ethereal richness and a gently creamy core that runs through its mouthwatering and mineral-drenched finish. A fantastic iteration of the exotic, precise profile readers have come to expect from this pioneering Gualtallary Chardonnay reference point.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPOne for the ages from an ageworthy vintage, the 2023 Chardonnay Adrianna Vineyard White Bones is textured, layered, and herbaceous, as all the White Bones wines are. Native thyme accents a medium-bodied, persistently fresh character of lemon crisp that’s complex and lengthy. The oak is well-integrated already, adding to the balanced structure and mouthfeel. This has 20-30 years more to go, with an ideal drinking window of 2030-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThere’s personality and energy to this white that just won’t quit. Opens with aromatically engaging notes of sage, river mint and lime zest that meld seamlessly into a core of green mango, finger lime and passion fruit. The body shows a silky richness, yet without the typical weighty lees or oak flavors, instead building intensity around tense minerality. Picks up a hint of pickled ginger on the lengthy, expressive finish. Drink now through 2040. 500 cases made, 215 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

This is one of the wines of the vintage in the Nahe. That starts an explosive nose of Amalfi lemons, white and yellow peaches, lychees and kiwis. Incredible concentration and vibrancy on the tightly focused, medium-bodied palate. A spring-like lightness is married to awesome density, the two so tightly wound that they’re inseparable through the almost endless finish. From organically grown grapes with Fair’n Green certification. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2024 Riesling Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Spätlese, again made in small quantities due to frost, is from shale soils. Lemon and Reine Claude plum are pristine on the nose. The midpalate has a touch of crushed yellow peach flesh scented with lime. Despite its vivid slenderness and beautifully taut, measured nature, this has fill, poise and purity. (Medium)Vinous Media | 97 VM

Based on 100% Roussanne from the Vaudieu lieu-dit and aged nine months in 50% new French oak, the 2024 Châteauneuf Du Pape Les Vieilles Roussannes is a voluptuous, layered beauty offering honeyed orange, ripe stone fruits, brioche, crushed stone, and floral nuances. It has perfectly integrated oak, a multi-dimensional mouthfeel, integrated acidity, and a spectacular finish that rivals Beaucastel’s Vieilles Vignes Roussanne. This deep, medium to full-bodied white shows terrific purity and incredible depth, with roughly 125 cases produced. It will evolve beautifully for 20+ years. Drink 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDDeep pear scents and honeysuckle, then a full-bodied, rich and powerful palate. An opulent wine that’s seen considerable oak influence, making for a finish that’s riven with cinnamon, nutmeg and clove, with a very long finish. The acidity and freshness bring some balance, but this will always be a hedonistic treat albeit an elegant one. Limestone soils, fermented and aged in barriques, 50% new.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECA stylish, golden-hued white, with a decadent robe of toasty oak around warm, spiced apple and juicy pear. Long and savory despite its opulence, with beautiful density and complexity. Salty intensity and a bitter kick of quinine build toward the finish, expertly offsetting the lushness. Tangy acidity keeps pace throughout. The oak will integrate with more time in bottle. Drink now through 2032. 450 cases made, 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSBottled on the morning of my visit, the perfumed 2024 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Les Vieilles Roussanne unwinds with prominent herbal tea, honeysuckle and a nuance of cedar. Open-knit and concentrated, the full-bodied 2024 carries impeccable freshness all the way through to the sapid close. Roussanne-lovers better line up for this one.Vinous Media | 92 VM