California Cults

wines

The 2018 Aubert Pinot Noirs were bottled at the beginning of July 2019. Medium to deep ruby-purple colored, the 2018 Pinot Noir UV Vineyard rolls out of the glass with intense notes of Morello cherries, rhubarb, raspberry pie, bouquet garni and lilacs with suggestions of Marmite toast, fungi, fragrant soil and forest floor. Full-bodied, the palate is packed with crunchy red berries plus loads of earthy accents, framed by firm, grainy tannins and seamless freshness, finishing long with a wonderfully spicy kick. Delicious now, this should age incredibly well, generously rewarding those with enough patience to defer their gratification.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RPPowerful and structured, with minerally richness to the fine-edged red fruit and savory spice flavors. The sleek finish offers impressive purity and clarity to the notes of hot stone, flint and underbrush. Best from 2021 through 2026. 993 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSVery fruity with cherry and dried-strawberry aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, tannic and chewy, yet polished and tight. It needs time to open. Available fall 2020. Better after 2022.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2018 Pinot Noir UV Vineyard is the darkest and richest of the three Pinots in Mark Aubert’s lineup. Black cherry, chocolate, licorice and herbs are all broad and ample in the glass. The UV is a Pinot of gravitas, power and textural intensity. Ideally, readers should give it a few years in bottle, as the tannins are pretty imposing at this stage, just a few months after bottling.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Aged in 50% new and 50% second-use American Oak from the Duncan family’s The Oak cooperage in Higbee, Missouri. Matt Duncan joined me for my tasting, and he says the Petit Verdot in the blend, of which there is 0.4%, is co-fermented with the Cabernet Sauvignon, intended to bring focus to the Cabernet fruit. A compelling, brooding, muscular rendition of Cabernet from Alexander Valley with gorgeous boysenberry notes, black currants, and rose petals laced with vanillin notes and toasty oak. Medium to full-bodied with black currants, ripe blackberry and black cherry notes framed by velvety tannins laced with that irresistible vanillin note. Toasty oak spices lend a hint of sweetness, balanced by grippy acidity. Long and complex, revealing umami, garrigue, and crushed slatestone on the finish. It’s a terrific wine from the Alexander Valley.Decanter | 95 DEC

Layered aromas of dried violets and roses, ripe red and black fruit, coriander and a hint of eucalyptus. Full-bodied with bright, humming acidity that amplifies the flavors of dark fruit and mint. Densely packed flavors of melted chocolate, espresso and overturned earth. Chewy finish. Simply delicious. Best after 2024.James Suckling | 97 JSThe UV site is right in the middle of Russian River, planted to Calera and Vosne-Romanée (suitcase) clones. The 2019 Pinot Noir UV Vineyard was aged in French oak, 60% new, and bottled at the beginning of July. Medium to deep ruby-purple colored, the nose is wonderfully perfumed, featuring notes of red roses, underbrush, wild sage and menthol over a core of pomegranate, black raspberries and wild strawberries. The palate is softly textured and beautifully balanced with full-bodied, generous fruit and just enough freshness, finishing long with a red berry lift.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2019 Pinot Noir UV Vineyard is incredibly delicate and refined. Freshly cut flowers, mint, sage, dried rose petals and blood orange infuse the UV with notable brightness and energy to match its soft curves. In the glass, the UV is nuanced and so full of complexity. The 2019 UV Pinot is one of the most elegant Pinots I have tasted from Mark Aubert. I would cellar the 2019 for a few years as it has just been bottled.Vinous Media | 95 VMThis crunchy red delivers flavors of dried raspberry and dark currant, with juicy acidity. Ends with toasty richness on the broad and well-spiced finish, with notes of tarragon. Drink now through 2025. 1,155 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Layered aromas of dried violets and roses, ripe red and black fruit, coriander and a hint of eucalyptus. Full-bodied with bright, humming acidity that amplifies the flavors of dark fruit and mint. Densely packed flavors of melted chocolate, espresso and overturned earth. Chewy finish. Simply delicious. Best after 2024.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2019 Pinot Noir UV-SL Vineyard comes from vines planted in 2006. The wine was bottled at the beginning of July 2020. Medium to deep ruby-purple colored, it starts out with beguiling scent notions of crushed rocks, tilled soil, truffles and garrigue over a core of kirsch, red currant jelly and black raspberries before giving way to a spicy, fragrant perfume of cardamom, Provence herbs and lavender. The full-bodied palate is super intense and fantastically layered, offering a rock-solid backbone of racy freshness and firm, fine-grained tannins. It finishes on a persistent earthy/ferrous note.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2019 Pinot Noir UV-SL Vineyard brings together some of the aromatic breadth of the UV with the textural resonance of the CIX. Rose petal, lavender, spice, menthol, kirsch and dark cherry fruit build in a Pinot that balances density, power and energy. Rich and layered in the glass, with striking inner perfume, the UV-SL is superb.Vinous Media | 96 VMElegant and harmonious, with powerfully structured flavors of dark fruit and Asian spice, backed by rich acidity and supple tannins. There’s minerally snap midpalate, with a finish that shows hints of anise and black olive. Best from 2022 through 2028. 1,202 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The 2020 Chardonnay Powder House is ethereal and gracious in feel. Effusive aromatics give the Powder House its lifted personality. White pepper, chalk, mint and lemon oil add quite a bit of brightness. The balance here is driven by energy and vibrancy more than by volume.Antonio Galloni | 90-92 AG

Floral, non-fruity hints of crushed stone and talcum powder appear on the nose of Aubert’s 2021 Chardonnay Powder House, creating an attractive counterpoint to the wine’s honeyed richness and intense white-peach notes. Full-bodied and silky in feel, it’s a bit custardy in texture yet lithe, graceful and long, with an almost mentholated finish. There are 2,000 cases this vintage, from a Forestville vineyard planted in 2015 mainly to Hyde Old Wente, plus a bit of Mount Eden.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RPLove the aromas of lemon-lime, gunpowder, kiwi, and dried lemons. It’s full, phenolic and solid. This is like red wine in structure. Long and persistent. One for the cellar. Give this some time. Best after 2025.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Chardonnay Powder House is elegant, polished and also a touch reticent. That won’t be an issue in time, but the Powder House is decidedly reticent today. Strong mineral accents are front and center, while the fruit feels pushed into the background. Mark Aubert’s Chardonnays have historically aged quite well. I expect that will be the case here as well.Vinous Media | 94-96 VM

Very aromatic and friendly and cuddly with apple pie, oyster shell, caramel and candied lemon character on both the nose and palate. Medium to full body. Vibrant acidity makes this energetic and lively. Dried apple and pear as well as ripe apple and toasted bread with butter and cinnamon. Rock salt. Love this. One of the best Hyde Chardonnays I have tasted. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2021 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is singular and expressive! Saline, lime candy, chalk and lemongrass aromas are underpinned by a pleasurable smoky reduction, and as it spends time in the glass, it continues to blossom and gain aromatic intensity. The palate is ethereal, seamless and silky, with a deep core of candied citrus fruit and chalky nuances that define the very long, very powerful finish. This vibrant, characterful Hyde Chardonnay will be long-lived in the cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPA slightly bright yellow, the 2021 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard has very pretty aromatics of lime blossom, fresh pear, and saline, and like the other Chardonnays from Kistler, it has a savory element to it. Medium to full-bodied, with a more delicate and ethereal nature, its floral perfume coaxes throughout the palate, with melon rind, white peach, and a hint of salty earth. Delivering fresh acidity and purity, it has fantastic lift and a more Chablis-like texture, with a note of crushed rock on the finish. Drink it over the next 10 or more years.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThis inviting, stunning mix of power and elegance opens with an apple tart note, offering whiffs of smoke, salted caramel and peach preserves, plus a drizzle of wildflower honey, nougat and Greek yogurt. Dried, crystalized fruit notes join a touch of crunchy sea salt, adding tension to the fresh thread of acidity. Everything is wrapped up in a luxuriously silky and smooth texture, with an epic finish. Drink now through 2035. 900 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe 2021 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard gallops out with bold notes of crunchy pears, yellow apples, and lemongrass tea, followed by hints of baking bread, wet slate, and crushed rocks. The medium to full-bodied palate is tightly wound with impressive tension and loads of soft-spoken, mineral layers, finishing with a zesty lift.The Wine Independent | 96 TWIThe 2021 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is laced with the essence of tangerine oil, hazelnut, passionfruit, spice and lightly honeyed notes. All the exotic signature of Hyde come through loud and clear, but there’s tons of energy too. I especially like how this opens with time. This is beautifully done.Vinous Media | 95 VM

The 2021 Les Pavots is a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, 7% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot. It’s a beautiful wine you could drink now or stash in the cellar, with a concentrated, broody yet polished profile. It has pure scents of blueberry liqueur, lilac, cast iron, grilled meats and soy sauce plus hints of wild thyme and truffle. The full-bodied palate offers a structural balance of clay-textured tannins and bright acidity, deriving its power from its sheer depth of dark fruit, and it has a long, detailed finish. 2,769 cases were made, and the Les Pavots will be released in February of 2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe blackberry and sage character comes through clearly, with some orange blossoms, graphite, dried tomatoes, green tobacco and stone. A rich and juicy red with lots of berry and chocolate character, with a full body and layered rich tannins. It’s flavorful yet hemmed in with firm yet rounded tannins. Muscular. 62% cabernet sauvignon, 25% cabernet franc, 7% merlot, and 6% petit verdot. This needs four or five years to come together and show its true self. Best after 2028.James Suckling | 97 JS

A fantastic chardonnay with super phenolic tension and purity of fruit with sliced apple and spiced pear. Reductive and tight. It’s full-bodied, but so reserved and structured with great phenolic tension that is polished and endless. Needs time to open and show you its greatness. Try after 2026.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2021 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is scented of warm peaches, pie crust and spice with singular touches of white pepper and chamomile tea. The medium-bodied palate is incredibly powerful, featuring a satiny, mouth-coating texture balanced by vibrant acidity, a concentrated core of peachy fruit and an epically long, flavorful finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPFrom the Moon Mountain AVA, the 2021 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is a bright golden hue and reveals aromas of smoky earth, cardamom, and fresh flowers. Full-bodied, with a lot of power behind it, it’s rich with concentration and structure and offers iron-rich earth, ripe pear, and more savory richness on the finish as well as a bit of almond and frangipane.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2021 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard skips out of the glass with bright, cheery notes of fresh yellow apples, lemongrass, and lime leaves, giving way to wafts of struck flint, marzipan, and pie crust with a touch of ginger. The medium to full-bodied palate offers vibrant citrus and chalky layers, with a lively line and long, savory finish.The Wine Independent | 97 TWIThe 2021 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is a wine of grace and class. Time in the glass brings out hints of ginger, dried flowers and spice that lend an exotic flair. I would cellar this for a year or two, as the wine’s structural elements are front and center at this stage. There’s gorgeous aromatic presence that begins to emerge over time.Vinous Media | 96 VMShows a distinct savory thread, with dried lemon verbena, sage and tarragon overtones. A sesame seed detail complements the apple, pear and citrus flavors at the core. This gains momentum on the finish, where a honeycomb note and spice accents reveal themselves. Drink now. 900 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Very intense blue fruits with blackberries and hints of licorice. Flowers, too. Some pepper. Full-bodied with lots of bark, mushroom and forest floor. Creamy and polished tannins. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Pinot Noir UV Vineyard is bright, punchy and super-expressive. Bright red/plum, blood orange, rose petal, lavender, spice and strong floral/savory accents add nuance throughout. The 2021 is an absolute joy to taste. The UV was done with entirely destemmed fruit, but its aromatic profile offers quite a bit of whole cluster-like character.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 2021 Pinot Noir UV was bottled in mid-July 2022. Medium to deep ruby-purple colored, it comes bounding out with youthful scents of black cherries, black raspberries, and wild strawberries, plus suggestions of violets, chocolate mint, wild sage, and fragrant earth. The full-bodied palate is fantastically light on its feet, with beautiful freshness and ripe, fine-grained tannins, finishing long and savory. Planted to the Calera clone in 2001 by late vineyard manager Ulises Valdez Sr., right in the middle of Russian River, the soil on this site is a unique mix of sand and dense clay.The Wine Independent | 96 TWIGorgeous, with an inviting core of raspberry, blood orange and boysenberry puree aromas and flavors that stream through, flanked by singed apple wood, dried anise and black tea notes. Shows serious depth but also drive and freshness, as a racy mineral edge lends energy from start to finish. Best from 2024 through 2033. 949 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSFrom a vineyard named for Aubert’s frequent collaborator, Ulises Valdez, and still farmed by his family, the 2021 Pinot Noir UV Vineyard (1,000 cases produced, from a Laguna Road site that’s slightly warmer than Aubert’s other Pinot Noir sources) features bold notes of cherries, cinnamon and wood spice. It’s medium to full-bodied and silky across the mid-palate, finishing long and softly tannic. Nicely balanced and structured, it should age well for more than a decade.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RP