California Wines

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The myth perpetrated by Old World wine proponents is that California wines don’t age. Those critics need to taste Verité, because these wines are aging far slower than I imagined. The 2005 La Joie (67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec) tips the scales at 14.7% alcohol. It received the same 18 months in 100% new oak. It is interesting that Pierre Seillan said that he thought the high-elevation vineyards of Sonoma that go into Verité (self-serving, os course) are his greatest sites in the world for Bordeaux varietals. But remember – he’s from Bordeaux! This multidimensional wine, which enjoyed a 4-5 day cool, pre-fermentation maceration, has a provocative bouquet of blackberry, cassis, new saddle leather, Christmas fruitcake, graphite and high-quality unsmoked cigar tobacco. It is profound, extremely full-bodied and massive in the mouth, but not heavy or astringent in any way. This is perfection in a glass, and a tribute to what Sonoma can achieve. Give this wine another 4-5 years, and drink it over the following 30+ years.Robert Parker | 100 RPAn absolutely awesome wine that tops out my scale, the 2005 La Joie offers a Château Latour-like stature and structure as well as complex notes of blackcurrants, lead pencil shavings, sandalwood, and crushed rocks. Still youthful and vibrant, it’s full-bodied, has off-the-charts purity, ultra-fine tannins, blockbuster length, and a singular, magical character. Feel free to drink bottles today or cellar for just about as long as you’d like. It will probably outlive everyone reading this.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JD(14.7% alcohol): Full bright ruby. Knockout nose melds blackcurrant, black cherry, herbs, coffee, mocha, tobacco and game. Boasts outstanding balance and finesse, as well as terrific inner-mouth floral lift to the intense flavors of berries, tobacco and spices. The suave, slowly mounting finish leaves the palate vibrating. This vibrant, slightly wild wine finishes with outstanding subtle persistence.Vinous Media | 95+ VMShowing complex aromas of dark fruit, pine needles and pine nuts right now. Dried flowers, too. Full-bodied, round and chewy with firm and silky tannins. Always a linear edge running through this. Drink now.James Suckling | 94 JSThe nose is fully ripe, with sweet, delectable blackcurrant fruit. Blackcurrants and blackberries dominate the palate, and the oak is still evident. However, the tannins are becoming furry and chocolatey, so that it does lack a little polish and refinement. But it has force and presence, some maturity, and good length.Decanter | 92 DEC

Lastly, the virtually perfect 2014 Chardonnay Cix Estate, planted with a Montrachet clone on Goldridge soils, again exhibits amazing intensity, notes of wet gravel interwoven with apple blossom, caramelized citrus, apricot, white peach and honeysuckle. It is full-bodied, multidimensional and a profound glass of Chardonnay.Robert Parker | 99 RPDense and racy in style, the 2014 Chardonnay CIX Vineyard is one of the more approachable wines in this lineup. Here the Montrachet clone gives a Chardonnay with good up-front intensity and plenty of power. Although attractive, the CIX doesn’t quite have the complexity, nuance or persistence of the best wines in the range.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Mountain Estate Vineyard (84% Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance Merlot and Petit Verdot) spent 22 months in 80% new French oak. It has a more mineral-laced style as well as dark currants and cassis-like fruits, notes of smoked herbs and graphite, full body, building tannins, and a great finish. There’s a touch of this liqueur of rock like minerality that comes out with air and it’s a powerful, structured wine that reminds me of what Leoville Las Cases would make from Napa. Hide bottle for 4-5 years and drink it over the coming two decades or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 96+ JDThe 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Mountain Estate Vineyard is a dark, brooding wine. A terrific example of Sonoma Cabernet, the 2016 possesses superb textural richness and intensity to match its dark, somber profile. An infusion of inky dark fruit, gravel, smoke, iron, game, dark spice, leather and licorice runs through this super expressive, rugged Cabernet Sauvignon from the Fisher family’s Spring Mountain estate.Antonio Galloni | 94 AGA tight, chewy red with blackberry and dark-chocolate aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, layered and rich. Flavorful finish. Shows mountain firmness. Drink in 2022 and onwards.James Suckling | 94 JSDeep ruby-purple, the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Mountain Estate Vineyard opens with gregarious crème de cassis, chocolate-covered cherries, graphite, leather and spice box with notes of thyme, turned earth and eucalyptus. Medium to full-bodied, it floods the mouth with intense, youthfully wound fruit, framed by grainy tannins and great freshness, finishing very long. This is vibrant and intense and will require another 3-5 years of bottle age. 952 cases produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93+ RP

A hearty mouthfeel belies this wine’s quintessential and quenching acidity, driven by its cool-climate provenance and winemaking style. Green-apple, pear and tangerine flavors meld together easily along a midpalate of complex structure and length, with a lift of crispness reappearing on the finish.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe 2018 Chardonnay Zephyr Farms comes from a site located 6.7 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Fermented and aged in 15% new French oak, it has a distinct salty, chalky mineral character as well as plenty of lemon, pear, white flowers, toasted spice, and a touch of almond paste aromatics. Beautifully textured and medium-bodied, with integrated acidity and a great finish, this brilliant Chardonnay will evolve for a solid decade.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThe 2018 Chardonnay Zephyr Farms Vineyard is one of the deeper, more overt wines in this range. All the elements fall into place effortlessly. In this tasting, the Zephyr Farms is distinguished by its vertical depth and overall intensity. Wild flower, apricot, chamomile, lemon confit and lightly honeyed notes all grace this super-expressive and inviting Chardonnay from Red Car.Antonio Galloni | 93 AG

The 2018 Aubert Pinot Noirs were bottled at the beginning of July 2019. Medium to deep ruby-purple colored, the 2018 Pinot Noir UV Vineyard rolls out of the glass with intense notes of Morello cherries, rhubarb, raspberry pie, bouquet garni and lilacs with suggestions of Marmite toast, fungi, fragrant soil and forest floor. Full-bodied, the palate is packed with crunchy red berries plus loads of earthy accents, framed by firm, grainy tannins and seamless freshness, finishing long with a wonderfully spicy kick. Delicious now, this should age incredibly well, generously rewarding those with enough patience to defer their gratification.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RPPowerful and structured, with minerally richness to the fine-edged red fruit and savory spice flavors. The sleek finish offers impressive purity and clarity to the notes of hot stone, flint and underbrush. Best from 2021 through 2026. 993 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSVery fruity with cherry and dried-strawberry aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, tannic and chewy, yet polished and tight. It needs time to open. Available fall 2020. Better after 2022.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2018 Pinot Noir UV Vineyard is the darkest and richest of the three Pinots in Mark Aubert’s lineup. Black cherry, chocolate, licorice and herbs are all broad and ample in the glass. The UV is a Pinot of gravitas, power and textural intensity. Ideally, readers should give it a few years in bottle, as the tannins are pretty imposing at this stage, just a few months after bottling.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The 2019 Pinot Noir Diane Cobb Coastlands Vineyard has a medium ruby color and pure, layered scents of raspberry jam, tobacco leaves, lemon peel, pencil shavings and saline. The light-bodied palate is chalky and refreshing, with detailed, mineral-laced berry fruits and a very long finish with expansive floral and spice tones.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2019 Pinot Noir Coastlands: Diane Cobb emerges from a 1.5-acre block of own-rooted vines planted with 18 clones. Aromatic and ethereal, with striking understated depth that emerges over time, the Diane Cobb is full of personality. Crushed red berry fruit, cinnamon, sage, mint and blood orange lend tons of aromatic and flavor nuance.Antonio Galloni | 94 AG

The 2019 Pinot Noir Emmaline Ann Vineyard was made with 50% whole clusters and matured for 22 months in 40% new French oak. It is delicate and broody on the nose at this stage, with a core of raspberry fruit and accents of saline, seaweed, cracked pepper and violet. The light-bodied palate is delicate, grainy and fresh, with layer after layer of detailed fruits and a latent finish that hints at more to come as this matures in bottle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2019 Pinot Noir Emmaline Ann Vineyard is perfumed with rose petal, pomegranate, and pine, and the structure is fresh, with a spine of acidity, followed by notes of red cherry fruit, spice, and tea leaf on the finish.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDThe 2019 Pinot Noir Emmaline Ann Vineyard is a classic Ross Cobb wine. Crushed red berry fruit, pipe tobacco, mint, cedar and dried flowers are all nicely lifted. The 50% stems add aromatic nuance but are also very nicely integrated. Some of the edges have softened, but this remains a gracious, almost ethereal style.Antonio Galloni | 91 AG

Enticing aromas of oak spices, toast, grilled plums, redwood forest and baked cherries draw your interest quickly before enjoying the wine’s rich, complex red cherry, black tea and cedar flavors. Nicely gripping tannins and great acidity give it excellent balance for further aging. Best from 2028-2038.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WE

The 2019 Pinot Noir Le Russe was matured in 75% new French oak. It is alluringly earthy, with scents cranberry, woodsmoke, oolong tea and forest floor. The light-bodied palate is bursting with perfumed fruit! It has tremendous spicy accents, a structural harmony of chalky tannins and energetic acidity and a long, spicy finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPAromas of redcurrants, cherries, cola, nutmeg and flowers. Medium-to full-bodied with soft tannins. Juicy and fruity with a silky, caressing texture and a flavorful finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSA cuvée of several sites, including Martaella, Jenkins and Martinelli River Road, this wine shows a spectrum of fine flavor and sinewy texture. Cherry cola and spicy perfume accent its medium-bodied lushness and refined richness. Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

The 2019 Chardonnay Eastside Vineyard is deep, powerful and packed. Lemon confit, crushed rocks, menthol, graphite, chamomile and vanillin infuse the 2019 with striking layers of dimension. Bright acids give the sculpted finish tremendous persistence. Montrachet clone on Riparia rootstock in a rocky site yields a Chardonnay of rare distinction and class.Antonio Galloni | 98-100 AGA lovely nose of fresh herbs and ground, peppery spice with fresh flowers, lime leaf and baked citrus. Full-bodied and speckled with white pepper and honeysuckle. Driving and well-balanced acidity is at the center of the palate and makes it hum with fruitful intensity. Such a pleasure to drink. Truly superb. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 99 JSA barrel sample, the 2019 Chardonnay Eastside sails out of the glass with zesty citrus scents of lemons, kaffir lime leaves and mandarin peel with an underlying jasmine perfume and a waft of blanched almonds. The palate is tightly wound and very finely knit, delivering loads of nuanced layers and a crisp backbone, finishing long and steely.Eastside is a warmer site in Russian River, composed of very rocky, gravelly soils, forcing the vines to really struggle. It is planted to Montrachet clone. Aubert usually harvests this second, after Sugar Shack.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98 RPThis sings with rich toastiness to the ripe, juicy and powerfully structured white fruit and cooking spice flavors that are backed by firm acidity. Buttery midpalate, with a glistening finish that shows accents of dried tropical fruits. Drink now through 2028. 1,014 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WS

The 2019 Zinfandel Piner-Olivet Ranches is a blend taken from five ranches in this very unique district of the Russian River. A deep, layered wine, the 2019 shows all of the allure of the year in its open-knit, opulent personality. Super ripe red cherry/plum fruit, spice, wild flowers and blood orange are front and center in this bold, luscious Zinfandel. Vineyard sites are Papera Ranch, Carlisle Vineyard, Mancini Ranch, Montafi Ranch and Saitone Vineyard. Antonio Galloni | 93 AGA spirited red that recalls a briar patch, with wild berry, sweet anise and white pepper flavors that race along to a vibrant, zesty finish.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2019 Zinfandel Carlisle Vineyard soars out of the glass with stunning bouquet. Pliant and racy, with tremendous complexity, the Carlisle is loaded with class. Red fruit, blood orange, chalk and mint, all open, but it is the wine's silkiness and textural finesse that elevates it in this range. Planted in 1927, Carlisle is unquestionably one of the great sites for Zinfandel in California. Production is all of 95 cases.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGThe 2019 Zinfandel Carlisle Vineyard is floral and fragrant with cherry candy. The palate is tangy, fresh, and balanced.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDImpressively structured and richly styled, this vibrant version opens to deep raspberry and cherry flavors laced with licorice, sage and mint, building toward broad-shouldered tannins. Drink now through 2030. 696 cases made. Wine Spectator | 94 WS

This opens with a fruit bomb of wild berry briar patch, then transitions into an appealingly rustic and structured zest fest, revealing heaps of licorice, roasted sage and forest floor accents that build toward medium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2030. 1,192 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2019 Chardonnay Platt Vineyard is laced with hints of jasmine, lemon confit, mint, orchard fruit and tangerine oil. Time in the glass brings out light tropical overtones that take on a Riesling-like feel that is hugely appealing.Antonio Galloni | 95 AG

The 2019 Chardonnay Myrna shows just how compelling the vintage is for white wines. Lemon oil, white flowers, chalk and mint give the 2019 a brilliant upper register that almost comes as a surprise once the wine shows its superb depth and persistence. This highly expressive, nuanced Chardonnay has a lot going on and plenty to offer.Antonio Galloni | 94 AGA polished, minerally chardonnay with sliced apple, lemon rind and some stone and flint. Laurel and other herbs, too. It’s medium-to full-bodied with a creamy texture and balance. Phenolic texture. Lively and stony. From mountain vineyards in Sonoma and Mount Veeder. Nice debut wine. Drink or hold. 1,500 cases made.James Suckling | 94 JSHigh-toned and floral, this wine offers a generous mouthfeel of salty oak, mineral and wet stone. The elegant fruit profile combines pear, apple and Meyer lemon with ease, complementing the body weight with ample acidity.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

The 2019 Chardonnay Mountain Estate Vineyard is bright and high-toned, as it often is, but it also has gorgeous depth and fabulous balance. Citrus peel, white flowers, chalk and white pepper are all beautifully delineated in the glass. Readers will want to give the 2019 at least a year or two in bottle. Today, it is a bit nervy in feel, but it is all there.Antonio Galloni | 95 AG

Aged in 50% new and 50% second-use American Oak from the Duncan family’s The Oak cooperage in Higbee, Missouri. Matt Duncan joined me for my tasting, and he says the Petit Verdot in the blend, of which there is 0.4%, is co-fermented with the Cabernet Sauvignon, intended to bring focus to the Cabernet fruit. A compelling, brooding, muscular rendition of Cabernet from Alexander Valley with gorgeous boysenberry notes, black currants, and rose petals laced with vanillin notes and toasty oak. Medium to full-bodied with black currants, ripe blackberry and black cherry notes framed by velvety tannins laced with that irresistible vanillin note. Toasty oak spices lend a hint of sweetness, balanced by grippy acidity. Long and complex, revealing umami, garrigue, and crushed slatestone on the finish. It’s a terrific wine from the Alexander Valley.Decanter | 95 DEC

Peaches, fresh flowers, rose petal, cedar and orange blossom. Medium to full body with a brightness and complexity. So lively and complex with energy and intensity. Cedar, dried seaweed and strawberry aftertaste. Gorgeous now. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2020 Pinot Noir Goldrock Estate takes on a darker fruit profile, with ripe black cherry, fresh potting soil, and root beer spice. In line with the nose, the palate is more grounded in nature, with black raspberry and layers of incense and spice that unfold harmoniously through its long finish. This is worth holding a couple years and drinking over the following 10 or more years.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe 2020 Pinot Noir Goldrock Estate, matured in 30% new oak, is a touch muted on the nose and takes time to reveal red cherries, raspberries, blood orange and potpourri. The medium-bodied palate is soft and juicy with a concentrated core of red berry fruit and pleasant herbal undertones on the long finish. Drink it over the next 3-5 years. 1,067 cases produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPA juicy, balled-up wine, brimming with blackberry and boysenberry compote flavors lined with black tea, anise and chaparral. Give this a touch of cellaring to let everything unwind fully. Lots to like here. Best from 2023 through 2029. 1,067 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Spicy, high-toned and strong in tannin, this is an impressive wine in its youth that will only get better. Cardamon, rose petal, black tea and tree bark give it a savory edginess that appeals and adds to the overall complexity and measured weight, finishing bright and fresh. Enjoy best 2030–2035.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEThe 2020 Pinot Noir Wester Reach is one of Dumol’s larger cuvées, and production was normal despite the challenges of the vintage (3,750 cases). It has alluring purity on the nose, with scents of cranberries, rhubarb, tobacco leaves, orange peel and aniseed. The medium-bodied palate is concentrated and powerful without losing detail, framed by powdery tannins and refreshing acidity. It offers an array of spice and floral accents on the finish. Lovely!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2020 Pinot Noir Wester Reach has a rich perfume of black cherry cola, sassafras, and sweet violets. The palate is full and ripe, with black raspberry as well as ripe tannins and a note of black tea. Drink over the next 15 or more years.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDDelivers a core of gently mulled blood orange and pomegranate, with anise and singed vanilla on the finish. Features a light echo of wood spice, too. A juicy, open, crowd-pleaser style. Drink now through 2025. 3,814 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Great flavor concentration and a nicely taut structure define this beautifully balanced wine. It is refreshing and rich at the same time, carrying light lemon zest and green-apple skin accents on a delicious base of quince and Gravenstein apples, while gently coated with subtle shades of toasted oak. Best from 2026–2036. Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEThe 2020 Chardonnay Woolsey Road Vineyard was harvested on August 17th before the wildfire smoke arrived, and with its pure, mineral-driven expression, it’s worth cellaring for several years. The nose opens with iodine and nori tones that give way to pretty scents of panna cotta, spring honey and lilac. The medium-bodied palate is buzzing with shimmery acidity that enlivens its perfumed fruit, and it has a long, saline-driven finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPShows juicy apple and pear flavors that are crisp and sleek, with lemon meringue, ginger and tropical hints on an appealingly dense, fleshy frame. Delivering details of toasted herbs and minerality, this is harmonious and expressive on the long finish. Drink now. 359 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Great depth comes with impeccable balance in this beautifully proportioned wine that is silky and bracing at the same time. Bright acidity mingles with ripe Bosc pears, cream and toast flavors that linger nicely on the finish. Collectible and age-worthy, it will only improve with time. Best from 2026–2036.Wine Enthusiast | 98 WEThe 2020 Chardonnay Rochioli Vineyard has pretty scents of baked apples, honey, roasted almonds and honeysuckle. The medium-bodied palate is satiny and expansive with a core of savory fruit balanced by bright acidity, and it finishes long and layered.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPFleshy, with honey-drizzled crisp apple, pear and melon flavors, plus spice accents that add warmth to the fruit core. Reveals a hint of graham cracker crust that lingers on the harmonious finish. Drink now through 2029. 765 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS