Hermitage Wines

wines

First, a magnum of 1964 Hermitage La Chapelle from Paul Jaboulet Aîné. Lucid in hue, it sports modest bricking on the rim. Its initial tightness on the nose soon disappears to reveal layers of melted red berries, allspice and touches of wild mint, hints of potpourri/garrigues emerging with time. The palate is fleshy and displays exquisite balance, the vestige of fruit framed by filigree tannins, hints of strawberry and bay leaf as it fans out and deepens on the captivating finish. Format and provenance play a role here, yet it was undeniably Hermitage at its very best and at 58-years of age, one senses it has no intention of stepping off its high plateau. Utterly transfixing.Vinous Media | 97 VMA warm summer led to supple, low-acidity wines. This Chapelle reflects the vintage--smooth, silky and full-bodied. Less expressive than the ’66, but tastes rounder and richer. Melts on the palate as it delivers white chocolate, spice, fresh plum and freshly roasted coffee bean. Seems younger than you’d expect from a 35-year-old wine.--La Chapelle vertical. Drink now through 2005.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThis fully mature La Chapelle exhibits a dark garnet color with considerable amber at the edge. Aromas of wood fires, smoke, leather, Asian spices, roasted vegetables, and meats emerge from the wine’s bouquet.Burly, brawny, fat, and full, with low acidity, high alcohol, and copious glycerin and fruit, this 1964 is initially sumptuous, creamy-textured, and spectacular to drink, but it quickly cracks up as it sits in the glass. I have not had much previous experience with this vintage, but I suspect it was close to perfect when drunk in its prime (the seventies and early eighties). However, it is clearly at the end of its useful life, and should be consumed ... quickly.Robert Parker | 93 RP

The 1981 stood out as slightly superior. Winemaker John Duval always felt this was a tannic style of Grange, but the wine has shed its tannins, and this is one of the few vintages where the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon was above 10%. Sweet notes of creme de cassis, cedarwood, charcoal, and barbecue spices are followed by a full-bodied, opulent wine displaying heady amounts of alcohol, glycerin, and density in its full-bodied, skyscraper-like texture. I was drinking this wine with great pleasure in the mid-nineties, yet here it is nearly 15 years later, and the wine does not appear to have budged much from its evolutionary state. This is a testament to how remarkably well these wines hold up, and age at such a glacial pace.Grange, Penfolds’ flagship wine, is, by many accounts, the most renowned and world-famous wine produced in Australia, and these six vintages from my cellar all acquitted themselves well. These wines are almost always Shiraz, but many vintages include less than 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and there are cross-appellations blends from vineyards in the Barossa and McLaren Vale.Robert Parker | 97 RP

The 1989 Le Pavilion is a prodigious wine. Made from yields of 14 hectoliters per hectare, this parcel of old vines (averaging 70-80 years of age) has produced an opaque black/purple-colored wine, with a hauntingly stunning bouquet of violets, cassis, minerals, and new oak. In the mouth, the similarity in texture, richness, and perfect balance to the compelling 1986 Mouton-Rothschild is striking, only this wine is richer and longer. This extraordinarily well-balanced wine will probably not be ready to drink for at least 5-10 years, but it will evolve for three decades or more. It is an enormous yet amazingly well-delineated wine. I lament the fact that there are only 600 cases of this magnificent wine. This great Hermitage was the first of a trilogy (1989, 1990, and 1991) of exquisite Le Pavillons. Last tasted 12/95.Robert Parker | 100 RPThe 1989 Chapoutier Hermitage Le Pavillon was incredibly intense and powerful. Made in a dark, somewhat alcoholic style, it came across as dark, rich and totally seductive in its expression of dark fruit, flowers and cassis.Antonio Galloni | 95 AG

The 1990 Hermitage is fully mature yet holding beautifully. Perfumed notes of sweet cassis and blackberry fruits, rose hips, smoked meats, and exotic spices all flow to a full-bodied, layered, seamless, flawlessly balanced Hermitage that glides over the palate with no sensation of weight or heaviness. With resolved tannins, beautiful purity, and a great finish, it’s unquestionably ready to go, yet should hold nicely for another 8-10 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDAlso mature, yet with another level of texture and richness, the 1990 Hermitage is a profound effort that’s drinking perfectly. Voluptuous, yet classy and still refined, with awesome cassis and blackberry fruit, flowers, rose petal and hints of rendered bacon fat, it is full-bodied, textured and layered on the palate, with no hard edges and killer length on the finish. This beauty makes lights go off in my head, and as with the ’91, I’d drink bottles over the coming 4-5 years or so.Located in the tiny village of Mauves, just south of Hermitage, lies one of the true bastilles of traditionally made wines, and there are few vinous experiences that surpass getting to taste through the different terroirs of Hermitage and Saint Joseph in Chave’s cellar. Founded in 1481, Chave has seen a long succession of generations, with Gerard Chave, who was born in 1935, slowly beginning to hand over the reins to his brilliant son, Jean-Louis (born in 1968), in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Today, the estate stays firmly planted in tradition, yet is far from resting on its laurels or reputation, completing work on a new cellar (just across the street from their existing cellar and connected via a tunnel) in 2014, and working hard on a number of new vineyard sites. While this new cellar includes a state-of-the-art lab, Jean-Louis was quick to point out, “you don’t need a lab to make great wine.” In addition, and along with the help of Jean-Louis’ wife, Erin Cannon-Chave, they’ve continued to grow their negociant label, Chave Selection, which offers fabulous bang-for-the-buck and includes both Northern and Southern Rhones. While Jean-Louis has a professor-like level of expertise with regards to Hermitage, today his passion is firmly directed at the steep slopes on the western side of the Rhone River, in the appellation of Saint Joseph. He has numerous new vineyards coming on-line, and while everything is currently blended into his estate Saint-Joseph, each of the individual terroirs are incredibly unique, and I’m sure will be bottled on their own sometime in the future. With more and more of Hermitage going to larger corporations these days, it’s inspiring to see this small, family owned estate still sitting near the top of the hierarchy. Jean-Louis is still young (and has a young son who takes after him, and a daredevil daughter who takes after Erin), so the future is very bright at this estate! Looking specifically at their Hermitage, the Chaves vinify each of their individual terroirs separately, and the components are all aged in small barrels before blending and bottling without being filtered. As is the norm in Hermitage, everything is completely destemmed, and the percentage of new oak is kept to a minimum, falling in the 20-30% range. The style here is beautifully transparent, with the wines always showing the vintage characteristics clearly (which Jean-Louis breaks into a “Granite” year, or a “Sun” year). In addition, when tasted as individual components, each plot’s characteristics always shine through. While the wines have the balance and purity to dish out plenty of pleasure in their youth, they age beautifully, with Jean-Louis recommending at least 15 years of cellaring for most vintages.Robert Parker | 99 RPThis still very rich and alluring, with a core of dark roasted plum, black currant and blackberry fruit that still has an unctuous feel. There are additional floral and black tea notes, flashes of bergamot and clove, and a lingering tarry edge that supports the finish. Still throws a long shadow. Going in, I would have picked this as the wine to beat from the older vintages, but the ’91 prevails in overall grace.—Non-blind Chave vertical (June 2012). Drink now through 2020. 2,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 98 WSChave’s 1990 Hermitage is simply magnificent from the moment it is poured. A dark, translucent ruby, the 1990 hits the palate with a rush of bold red-fleshed fruits. Hints of herb, smoke, cedar, dried flowers, tobacco and leather open up with time in the glass, but above all else, the 1990 is superbly polished and silky, with exceptional balance and an alluring, sensual personality that makes it nearly impossible to put the glass down. This is an especially fine bottle of the 1990 and a real thrill to drink. It simply does not get too much better than this. Readers lucky enough to own well-stored bottles can look forward to another 15-20 years of pure pleasure.Antonio Galloni | 97 AG(Hermitage- Domaine Jean-Louis Chave) The 1990 Chave, in notable contrast to the ’90 La Chapelle, is a brilliant bottle of wine. There was a time four or five years ago when this vintage of Chave seemed to have a little bit of pruniness developing, but with further bottle age the wine has snapped back into focus and offers a stunningly pure and transcendental aromatic profile. The majestic bouquet soars from the glass in a mélange of black raspberries, cassis, black olives, hot stones, tobacco smoke, earth and a touch of La Mission-like chipotle pepper. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, pure and minerally, with fine focus, great depth in the mid-palate, ripe tannins, solid acidity, and great length and grip on the profound finish. This is only a few years away from its absolute apogee, but it should drink at its peak for at least another three decades. A great Chave (Drink between 2010-2040).John Gilman | 96+ JG

I’ve been lucky enough to drink probably a case of the 1990 Hermitage La Chapelle, and it’s always either rated pure perfection or just off that magical number. On this occasion, it tasted like a newly released wine and offered incredible purity and freshness in its crème de cassis, crushed rocks, spring flowers, chocolate, and smoke meat aromas and flavors. Deep, brilliantly concentrated, yet also elegant and seamless, it’s just now starting to show hints of secondary aromas and is going to be incredibly long-lived. One of the greatest Hermitages ever made, life is too short not to drink this once in your life!Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDJaboulet’s Hermitage La Chapelle 1961, 1978 and 1990 are considered to be among the greatest wines ever made in the Rhône Valley. The 1990 was sourced from Les Bessards, Le Méal and Les Rocoules, with the vines at the time between 40 and 60 years old. The grapes were hand-harvested, destemmed and macerated for three to four weeks, then matured in barrel for 15-18 months, 20% new wood. It’s still amazingly dark in colour, with an immediately intense, savoury expression on the nose reminiscent of beef stock. Dried roses and roasted beef bones come through on the medium- to full-bodied palate, but there’s also still fruit, not yet dried out at all. There’s a touch of mint on the finish and a prickle of furry tannins. This still has a good sense of density and drive - an extraordinary wine with a reputation that’s fully deserved. Drinking Window 2019 - 2050Decanter | 100 DECThe 1990 La Chapelle is the sexy and opulent. I had the 1990 at the Jaboulet tasting, and again out of a double magnum three months ago. On both occasions it was spectacular, clearly meriting a three-digit score. The modern day equivalent of the 1961, it deserves all the attention it has garnered.The color remains an opaque purple, with only a slight pink at the edge. Spectacular aromatics offer up aromas of incense, smoke, blackberry fruit, cassis, barbecue spice, coffee, and a touch of chocolate. As it sits in the glass, additional nuances of pepper and grilled steak emerge. There is extraordinary freshness for such a mammoth wine in addition to abundant tannin, an amazing 60-second finish, and a level of glycerin and thick, fleshy texture that have to be tasted to be believed.Despite its youthfulness, the 1990 La Chapelle is lovely to drink, although it will be even better with another 5-6 years of cellaring; it should age for 35-40+ years. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2050.Robert Parker | 100 RPGorgeous aromas of dark berry, dried meat, dried berry, game, wet earth and licorice. Floral. Full body with a wonderful texture of dried fruits, spices and berries. Very dense and muscular with wonderful balance and length. Dense and intense. Blockbuster style.James Suckling | 98 JSAs expected from this ideal vintage, this ’90 is sensational. Inky in color and solidly anchored in its [i]terroir[n], it springs to life with a symphony of flavors, from mineral to wet earth and blackberry. Marvelous balance among fruit, acidity and smooth tannins. Delicious now, but can hold.--La Chapelle vertical. Drink now through 2025. 9,400 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WSRhȏne lovers were out in full force on this night. Sadly, I only got to taste a handful of the wines being passed around. Still, these were four of the greatest wines I have ever tasted. The 1990 La Chapelle held its own in this grouping, and then some. The purity of the fruit and the wine’s finish were mind-bending.Antonio Galloni | 96 AG

The 1995 Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin is another magical wine from this family estate that’s drinking brilliantly today. Its vivid ruby, semi-opaque color (classic mature Hermitage) is followed by an incredibly complex bouquet of red and black currants, Asian spices, scorched earth, beef blood, and obvious smoky minerality that’s the essence of the les Bessards lieu-dit. Deep, concentrated, and powerful on the palate, yet at the same time incredibly seamless and elegant, with an almost Burgundian ethereal texture, this smoky, meaty, mineral-driven Hermitage is fully mature today yet I will have no problem evolving for another two decades or more. It’s pure class.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDA unique wine that floats like a cloud on the palate but tastes of a garden in full bloom, of freshly plowed earth, of a stable of horses and worn leather saddles. Extraordinary marriage between fresh acidity and full-bodied, voluptuous texture, this is the sort of wine you’ll never tire of drinking and one that should age for more than a decade. Silky finish with grilled meat, animal-like accents. Have I said enough? It’s just brilliant. Drink now through 2015. 250 cases made.Wine Spectator | 98 WSThe 1995 Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin, only the third vintage of this offering, is less aromatic than the cuvee classique. Rich and powerful, with a formidable tannin level in the finish, it possesses a saturated purple color, great purity of fruit, and considerable mouthfeel and length, but what a full-bodied, awesomely-endowed baby! Much less evolved than the 1990 and 1991 were at a similar stage, it will require a minimum of 10-12 years of patience, and will last for 30-40+ years.Robert Parker | 97 RPDark ruby-red. Brooding but vibrant aromas of cassis, blackberry, licorice and spice. Extremely dense and concentrated, with urgent blackcurrant and pepper flavors complicated by a spicy oak component. Despite its supple texture, this has shut down since the last time I sampled it and is likely to call for extended patience.Vinous Media | 95+ VM(Hermitage “Cuvée Cathelin”- Chave) Given my very real and profound respect for the young titan of the 1995 regular Hermitage, I had great hopes for the ’95 Cuvée Cathelin which I had not crossed paths with before this. On the nose there is nothing at all here that fails to excite, as the wine soars from the glass in a blaze of black and red raspberries, grilled meats, gourd pepper, hot Hermitage stoniness, and a kaleidoscope of exotic spices. On the palate the wine is medium-full (nowhere near as concentrated as the regular 1995) and quite complex, with lovely focus, plenty of tangy, red berry fruit at the core, and a finish that is not quite capable of completely supporting the high percentage of new oak that the wine is expected to carry. The final notes here are of a bit of wood tannin. Once one tastes this wine, it is clearly understood that much of the magical spice tones on the nose are derived from the new oak, and though they are indeed captivating, they come at the price of modest depth of fruit on the palate. It seems pretty clear to me that this wine dried out a bit in the new oak, and though it is not a bad wine by any stretch of the imagination, it is not a patch on the regular 1995 Hermitage. 2007-2020. 90-93+ (depending on how well the fruit can carry the wood as time goes by). (Drink between 2007-2020).John Gilman | 90-93+ JG

Tasted with Jean-Louis Chave in his cellars in Mauves. This vintage included a proportion of botrytised grapes, a growing rarity these days on Hermitage due to the increasingly hot, dry growing seasons. It brings a touch of white rose to the almond and marzipan aromas. It’s at a perfect stage to drink now - honeyed but fresh still. Quince, honeycomb and butterscotch on the palate, all lifted by a fresh lemon verbena note. Rich, balanced, just so classic and so delicious. A wine you can wrap yourself in like a duvet. Drinking Window 2020 - 2030.Decanter | 99 DECA vintage Jean Louis thinks is best for drinking today, the 1997 Hermitage Blanc is elegant and silky, with the classic minerality, honeyed citrus, orange blossom and licorice characteristics these wines always show at maturity. Medium to full-bodied, balanced, and seamless, it still has plenty of mid-palate depth and should continue drinking nicely for another 5-10 years, but don’t hold off too long here.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPComplex, pure aromas of peach, apple, honey, acacia flower, linden and hawthorn. Offers great richness allied with floral lift. Almost miraculously elegant and not at all heavy. Finishes with outstanding persistence-and surprisingly dry given the wine opulence. This actually finished with a bit over two grams per liter residual sugar, said Chave, who added that it might well have turned out topheavy had he fermented with commercial yeasts (the less efficient wild yeasts tend to produce more glycerine and a bit less alcohol). An extraordinary white Hermitage.Vinous Media | 94+ VM

Reticent, minerally nose hints at great sweetness and ripeness; notes of blackberry and tar emerge with aeration. Round, rich and layered in the mouth; still quite closed but the wine extraordinary depth of flavor is already apparent. Slight suggestion of peppery austerity. Great intensity with no excess weight. Finishes with explosive length and noble tannins. This is essentially made up of Bessards for its tannic support, Meal for its sheer amplitude, and Peleat to round out the blend. This is likely to be the best Cathelin since the 1990, and is another legend in the making. It will also drive trophy collectors nuts, as there only about 2,500 bottles of this elixir, and a goodly number of them will never leave the Chaves’ caveVinous Media | 98+ VMThe opaque black/purple-colored 1998 Ermitage Cuvee Cathelin (200 cases) offers a huge nose of smoked licorice, blackberry, cassis, new saddle leather, and vanillin. Tasting like liqueur of Syrah, it is extremely full-bodied and awesomely concentrated, with formidable tannin as well as mind-blowing levels of extract and density. The tannin is sweet, and the wine seamless for a young Chave Hermitage.Robert Parker | 98 RPBeautiful red. Balanced, with a deft dose of mocha, spicy oak, red and black fruit and mineral notes. Its supple tannins fold nicely into the long finish, which tastes of grilled game and red berry jam. Drink now through 2015. 200 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

This is one of the greatest dry white wines I have ever tasted. The 1999 Ermitage l’Ermite is a liquid mineral, crystalline expression. It is the essence of its grape as well as terroir. It may be the greatest expression of terroir I have seen outside of a handful of Alsatian Rieslings (Clos Ste. Hune comes to mind). It has that transparent character that terroiristes talk more about than actually recognize. Drinking it is like consuming a liquified stony concoction mixed with white flowers, licorice, and honeyed fruits. It is frightfully pure, dense, and well-delineated. As I said last year, "There is no real fruit character, just glycerin, alcohol, and liquid stones." That’s about it, but, wow, what an expression! Anticipated maturity: 2012-2050. This is for the connoisseur of rare wines. Along with Gerard and Jean-Louis Chave, Chapoutier is producing the finest expressions of white Hermitage. His single vineyard cuvees are to die for if you like these eccentric, idiosyncratic, mammoth dry whites.Robert Parker | 100 RPTasting note not provided. | 93 W&SBeautiful. Thick, yet so reserved aromatically, with plenty of honey, mineral, macadamia nut, pear tart and passion fruit. What makes it a winner is the opulent, smooth texture. Drink now through 2010. 380 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS(from 70-to-80-year-old vines planted on granite soil; done entirely in new barriques) Spiced apple, minerals and toffee on the nose. Bright, firm, minerally and quite stylish. Very fine in the mouth and on the suave finish, which features oak notes of cinnamon and nutmeg.Vinous Media | 90+ VMYou call it Hermitage, they call it Ermitage; regardless, this is one smooth, waxy wine with mature peach aromas and papaya flavors that spread across your palate like sea foam on the beach. The toasty finish is soft and subdued, with hints of licorice and pepper. Quite complex and idiosyncratic; it’s the polar opposite of “mainstream.” Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

Chave’s 2000 Cuvée Cathelin was monumental. It was a privilege to taste, but also a shame to open so early. If the 1991 seemed young, the 2000 came across as a veritable new-born. Antonio Galloni | 97 AGSurprisingly, there will be about 200 cases produced of a 2000 Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin. Based on earlier visits, I thought this cuvee would not be produced again as the Chaves were embarrassed by all the attention previous offerings received. However, they will continue to produce it as long as it does not detract from their classic cuvee. The Cuvee Cathelin displays more new oak than the regular bottling as well as firmer tannin, yet also great length, palate presence, and structure. Boasting a chocolatey, blackberry nose, huge intensity, and super elegance and finesse, it will require 5-6 years of cellaring. Qualitatively, it is no better than its sibling, but does possess additional structure and new oak characteristics. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2040.This family-run estate continues to go from strength to strength, with the father and son (Gerard and Jean-Louis) team pushing all the right buttons to achieve success at all quality levels. Jean-Louis Chave is responsible for several negociant wines.Robert Parker | 96 RP

Deep, bright ruby-red. Superripe aromas of beefsteak tomato, gunflint and smoke, with a medicinal austerity lurking behind the wine’s roasted elements. Fat, dense and full; a lush, silky Hermitage of superb sweetness. Finishes with very sweet, suave tannins and lingering notes of dark berries and gunflint. Still, tasted next to the extraordinary Cote-Rotie this came across as almost too ripe.Vinous Media | 92 VMThe dark purple-colored 2001 Hermitage offers notes of creme de cassis interwoven with mineral, vanilla, and new oak characteristics, a sweet attack, and moderate tannin in the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2018.While the gifted Michel Tardieu has fashioned dense, powerful, backward 2001s, the quality is well behind that of such recent years as 1999, 1998, and 1997. Nevertheless, there are some strong offerings, particularly the two Cornas cuvees.Robert Parker | 89-91 RP

This was Chapoutier’s initial microcuvée of Hermitage, bottled for the first time in 1989. The 2004 version is smoky and gamy, accented by pepper and a hint of rhubarb, but lush red fruit flavors take over on the palate, gliding easily across in a creamy mass that turns chewy on the finish. Drink 2010–2020.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WERuby-red. Vibrant raspberry and cherry skin scents are enlivened by zesty mineral and floral accents. Structured and chewy, with well-focused red fruit flavors, excellent depth and a graceful, silky texture on the finish. There’s a striking and impressive mix of bright and rich tones here. This comes from the lieu-dit Bessards.Vinous Media | 93 VMShows a supertight focus, with black currant, plum and blackberry fruit harnessed by supple tannins, dark cocoa and a buried minerality. The long finish really fleshes out nicely in the glass. Best from 2008 through 2017. 555 cases made, 85 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSAll of the single vineyard Ermitages turned out as good as I had hoped, possibly even better. In short they are among the strongest wines one could hope for in this vintage. The 2004 Ermitage Le Pavillon is outstanding, but certainly not one of the most compelling wines Michel Chapoutier has made. It is dense, dark ruby/purple, and seems more austere and backward than the Le Meal, but I still think these are 15- to 20-year wines as opposed to the normal 50+ that the top vintages of these single vineyard Ermitages produce. Dense with black currant fruit intermixed with licorice, sweet blackberries, and white chocolate, this is an elegant, mid-weight Pavillon that should be drinking well in about 5-6 years and last 15-20.Robert Parker | 92 RP

Lastly, from the very dome of the granite hill of Ermitage is the 2005 Ermitage l’Ermite. An extraordinarily powerful wine that probably needs 10-15 years in the bottle (last year I thought 20 was probably conservative), this is a 100-year wine and probably best appreciated by our descendants rather than anyone currently over the age of 30. Dense purple to the rim, with notes of crushed rock, charcoal, roasted meats, and enormous quantities of blue and black fruits, this wine is almost painfully rich and thick, with mouthsearing levels of tannin and zesty acidity. Monumental! Anticipated maturity: 2020-2080.With twenty vintages under his belt, Michel Chapoutier and his impressive winemaking staff go from strength to strength. These are among the world’s greatest wines, especially the single vineyard wines, many of which will last 50 or more years.The 2006 reds from Chapoutier display good acidity and freshness. If they lack the powerful tannic structures of the 2005s, and perhaps some of that vintage’s density, they are certainly not light wines. It is a vintage of finesse and concentration, but with considerable up-front charm. Again, 1991 is a useful historic reference. They are the perfect foil for those buying 2005s, which will require deferred gratification. The single-vineyard, or as Chapoutier calls them, the “Selections Parcellaires” wines, are all aged in small barrels, often 100% new oak, and bottled with neither fining nor filtration. Production is relatively small, with the tiniest cuvee, the Crozes-Hermitage Les Varonnieres usually 200-325 cases, and the rest of the single-vineyard wines averaging around 480-625 cases. The largest is usually the St.-Joseph Les Granits or the Ermitage Le Pavillon, which can be as high as 1,000 or so cases in an abundant vintage. Again, the 2005s all exhibit the vintage’s density, tannic structure, and long-term aging potential. At the same time, the 2006s at Chapoutier remind me of 1991, initially an underrated vintage of wines with ideal balance. If they lack the pure power and structure of 2005, they are well-served by their purity and equilibrium. There are four single-vineyard cuvees of Ermitage. Production is small, running from about 275-300 cases of Les Greffieux, 480-500 of Le Meal, 800-1,100 for Le Pavillon, and 200-600 for L’Ermite.Robert Parker | 99+ RPSupersleek and racy, with layers of red and black licorice snap, red and black currant, plum sauce, coffee, iron and violet. Incredibly long, with superb minerality that keeps it all harnessed, leaving a nearly salinelike feel on the tangy finish. A steel-plated red that should age beautifully. Best from 2010 through 2030. 308 cases made, 47 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 98 WSBright ruby. Heady bouquet of spiced red berries, kirsch, fresh flowers, Indian spices and minerals. A sweet, palate-staining midweight, with luscious raspberry and blueberry flavors, sneaky tannic grip and slow-building cherry-cola on the close. I love the texture and focus here.Vinous Media | 94 VM

Showing more minerality than the le Meal, yet more plushness and sexiness than the l’Ermite, the 2006 Ermitage le Pavillon is a tour de force that gives up sensational notes of crushed rocks, blackberries, currants, smoked meats and licorice. It shows a touch of iron and bloodiness with time in the glass, is full-bodied, seamless and incredibly layered on the palate. There’s no shortage of tannin either and this beauty needs 4-5 years of cellaring to hit full maturity, and will keep for another 2-3 decades.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPTightly wound, with a mix of loganberry, blueberry and blackberry fruit all laced with espresso, loam and black tea hints. The dense, graphite-filled finish has a lot of unwinding to do. Best from 2011 through 2025. 1,177 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSLe Pavillon is drawn from Les Bessards, the most granitic of Hermitage’s climats, resulting in a wine with pronounced structure and minerailty. Hints of cinnamon and clove join plum and crushed stone on the nose, while the concentrated flavors suggest iron or beef blood as well. Drink 2015–2030.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEInky purple. Explosively perfumed, seductive aromas of raspberry, mulberry, potpourri and burning incense. Candied floral and sweet dark berry flavors saturate the palate, with fine-grained tannins lending shape. Tightens up on the finish, with the red berry and floral notes echoing. A real mouthful of sweet, energetic fruit: I’d give it some time to move past the primary fruit stage but it’s gorgeous right now.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The 2010 Hermitage Ex Voto continues to top out on my scale. This extraordinary Hermitage has more minerality and delineation than the 2009, as well as overflowing aromas and flavors of creme de cassis, jammy blackberries, violets, graphite and wood smoke. Massively concentrated, full-bodied, decadent, layered and sexy, it needs short-term cellaring but should be just about immortal in the cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPThis has lavish range, with intense steeped plum, anise, pain d’épices, singed apple wood and fruitcake notes layered together, framed by smoldering charcoal and sweet tobacco accents and riveted to a tarry spine. Expands like a fractal in the glass to display enormous depth and length. Features mouthwatering cut from start to finish despite the heft. An extremely impressive wine that will need some time to stretch out fully. Best from 2018 through 2040. 600 cases made, 120 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 98 WSInky purple. A wild, highly perfumed bouquet evokes ripe black and blue fruits, incense, olive paste and smoky minerals. Sweet, penetrating and pure, offering palate-staining boysenberry and cassis flavors and suggestions of candied licorice and fruitcake. Densely packed yet lively, finishing with remarkable power and smooth tannins that add shape and grip.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Surprisingly, I preferred the 2011 Ermitage le Meal Blanc over the 2012 on this occasion and it showed a more flamboyant, sexy style in its caramelized pineapple, tropical, honeyed and floral personality. Big, rich and decadent, with fabulous fruit intensity and length, this rock star flirts with perfection and will keep for another 3-4 decades.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 99 RPVivid gold. Heady orchard and pit fruit aromas are complicated by anise, buttered toast and iodine, with a sexy floral nuance emerging with aeration. Fleshy and deeply pitched, offering wonderfully concentrated pear, nectarine and melon flavors and a zesty jolt of orange pith on the back half. Closes with superb energy and a very persistent honeydew note. I’d love to try this superb wine alongside some heavy-hitters from the Cote d’Or.Vinous Media | 94 VMA matchstick hint gives way to creamed apple, melon, heather and salted butter notes. Offers weight, depth and definition, opening up pleasantly in the glass. The long finish has a creamy feel. Drink now through 2022. 27 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Leading off three single-vintage whites from Hermitage, the stunning 2013 Ermitage Cuvee de L’Orée has an off-the-hook bouquet that includes just about everything you could think of when considering Hermitage Blanc. White peach, white flowers, almond paste, quince and wet rock are just some of the nuances, and it packs a serious punch on the palate, with full-bodied richness, a flamboyant, expansive texture and riveting focus and purity. Give it a year or so and drink it over the following 2-3 decades.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPThis has a weighty, honeyed feel, with lots of heather, salted butter, warm piecrust and toasted macadamia nut notes leading the way, followed by creamed melon and yellow apple fruit. Lovely twinges of white ginger and mirabelle plum lend cut and contrast at the end. Drink now through 2030. 43 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSLight yellow-gold. An impressively complex bouquet evokes ripe citrus and orchard fruits, iodine and white flowers, and a hint of smoky minerals emerges with air. Sappy, penetrating and focused on the palate, offering intense Meyer lemon, quince, ginger and sweet butter flavors that deepen and spread out on the back half. Powerful and deeply concentrated yet graceful, finishing with superb energy and lingering floral and mineral notes. The vines from which this wine is sourced are in the Les Murets lieu-dit.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Another perfect wine is the 2015 Ermitage le Meal Blanc. The most decadent, unctuous and layered in the lineup, with to-die-for notes of white currants, toasted nuts, celery seed and licorice, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a huge mid-palate and a refreshing, pure, yet blockbuster finish that just won’t quit. If I had to pick a desert island white, this might be it.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPLovely, featuring waves of Jonagold apple, mirabelle plum, lemon curd and white peach flavors, all gilded with hints of honeysuckle, verbena and jasmine. Shows terrific range, with superior detail through the finish and lingering minerality adding length. Drink now through 2030. 636 cases made, 29 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSLurid yellow-gold. Penetrating aromas of ripe, mineral-accented citrus and pit fruits are complicated by hints of chalky minerals, saffron and chamomile. Juicy, smoky and deeply concentrated but lithe on the palate, offering densely packed peach nectar, pear liqueur, Meyer lemon and buttered toast flavors that show superb drive and focus. The mineral note repeats emphatically on the incisive, smoke-laced finish, which lingers with outstanding persistence.Vinous Media | 96 VMThis is dressed to impress with fresh oak framing up fragrant, ripe and slightly tarry black-fruit and cassis aromas. Pepper and graphite, too. The palate is superbly weighted, showing a classic interplay of elegance and power. Deeply succulent blackberries and black cherries snap fresh into the finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink in 2021.James Suckling | 96 JS

The finest vintage to date, better even than the stellar 2010, the 2015 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine De Thalabert is a gorgeous, deep, layered, and incredibly satisfying Crozes. Blackcurrants, olive tapenade, truffles and earthy notes all emerge from this full-bodied, gorgeously textured and seamless 2015. With fine tannin and no hard edges, it can be drunk today or cellaring for 15-20 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2015 reds from the Northern Rhône are truly spectacular and this vintage rivals or surpasses the 2010s and 2009s. Brought up in a mix of tronconique tanks and Burgundy barrels (20% being new), the 2015 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert is a big, serious, full-bodied effort that’s reminiscent of a slightly softer version of the 2010. Scorched earth, black fruits, cassis, black olive and a hint of graphite all emerge from this sensational Crozes Hermitage. You’ll need to forget bottles for 4-5 years, but it will have over two decades of longevity.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPInky ruby. Suave, mineral-accented scents of ripe blueberry, black currant and Indian spices, along with a slowly emerging floral component. Plush, broad and deeply concentrated, displaying black and blue fruit, licorice and mocha flavors that are energized by an intense, peppery overtone. Finishes extremely long, fleshy and sweet, delivering intense mineral thrust, a subtle cracked pepper nuance and youthful, building tannins.Vinous Media | 94 VMSmooth, impressive flesh and weight. Graphite-like stony minerally aromas with dark cherries and darker plums, the oak adding cedary woody notes. The palate has an impressive plushness as well as assertive tannins below. Extremely defined, pure and attractive. A great vintage. Best from 2019 and for a decade at least.James Suckling | 93 JS(Crozes-Hermitage “Domaine de Thalabert”- Paul Jaboulet Âiné) The 2015 Crozes-Hermitage “Domaine de Thalabert” bottling from Paul Jaboulet Âiné is a touch riper than their les Jalets bottling, coming in at 13.5 percent on the label (versus thirteen), but is nicely precise in its fruit expression and has nice mineral undertow. The cuvée is made entirely from sixty to eighty year-old vines these days and aged in twenty percent new oak. The 2015 version is excellent, offering up a nascently complex bouquet of cassis, black raspberries, roasted meats, pepper, bonfire, a nice touch of cedar, new leather and a fine base of dark soil tones. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and youthful, with a profile that shows a touch of sur maturité in its flavors, but no backend heat on the long, ripely tannic and nicely focused finish. This is a young and promising wine that has plenty of mid-palate stuffing and the backend mineral drive to be outstanding in the fullness of time, but it is a young wine that emphatically deserves some time in the cellar to blossom. (Drink between 2023-2060)John Gilman | 91 JG

Memorable, complex, aromatic and explosively deep, with a mix of palo santo, dark chocolate, black olive, espresso and hazelnut butter. The pure fruit at the core is a mix of ripe huckleberry, boysenberry and wild blackberry, with dense but polished tannins. Savory notes of dried rosemary and sage, cigar box, dried apricot and sandalwood linger on the epic finish. Drink now through 2045. 289 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 98 WSOpaque, bright-rimmed ruby. Highly pungent, smoke- and mineral-accented aromas of cherry pit, violet candy, cured tobacco, savory herbs, coconut and exotic spices on the kaleidoscopic nose. Shows superb clarity and spicy lift to its spice-laced bitter cherry, cassis, blueberry and floral pastille flavors, which take on black cardamom, menthol and cola nuances as the wine slowly stretches out. Shows superb delineation and spicy thrust on the youthfully tannic finish, which features resonating cherry, blue fruit and floral notes.Vinous Media | 97 VMStrongly marked—as always—by its 100% American oak elevage, the 2017 Grange backs up the cedar and vanilla notes with ample blackberry and cassis fruit. Full-bodied, ripe and almost decadently creamy in the mouth, it’s loaded with substance, concentrated and rich, yet—in the context of Grange—relatively light and elegant-seeming on the finish. Only the seventh-ever Grange to be exclusively Shiraz, it originates from Barossa Valley (86%) and McLaren Vale (14%); Shiraz from other growing regions in South Australia failed to make the grade this year.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPSurprisingly approachable, the seamless meld of fresh red fruits, mocha and liquorice makes for an especially friendly and agreeable young Grange. A fabulous bouquet immediately draws you in – a meadow of wild herbs amid an orchard of plums – while the long palate shows impressive drive. Some spiky raw notes stick out at the end, along with assertive oak, showing that this vintage is still growing into its sturdy frame. Released at AU$950. Drinking Window 2025 - 2060.Decanter | 96 DECThis starts with a deeply spicy and brooding nose that packs plenty of (100% new) American oak, some smoked vanilla and ripe dark plums and berries. The palate has a youthful, astringent feel with sinewy oak tannin and deep plum and dark-berry flavors, carrying a big frame of fruit extract. Big, round berries strive towards boldness. A blend of Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale. 100% shiraz. Drink over the next two decades.James Suckling | 96 JS

Always one of the top Crozes-Hermitage out there (although the case could be made that it’s more Hermitage than Crozes), the 2018 Crozes-Ermitage Les Varonniers has a liqueur of rocks-like character as well as gorgeous blue fruits, violets, earth, and bouquet garni aromas and flavors. I’d unquestionably guess Hermitage in a blind lineup. This full-bodied beauty has a seamless texture, ample tannins, and a great finish. It’s pure class and the finest Crozes Hermitage out there in 2018. It’s a stunning value that readers should snatch up!Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDSumptuous cherries line the medium to full-bodied palate of the 2018 Crozes Hermitage les Varonniers. Underneath—for the moment—are stony notes of granitic reserve, which I wouldn’t be surprised to see emerge even more with time. For now, this looks plush and fruity, but don’t be misled—there’s more here.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPGlistening ruby. A deeply perfumed bouquet evokes ripe black and blue fruits, olive paste, mocha and potpourri; a smoky mineral element adds energetic lift. Sappy and penetrating on the palate, offering broad-shouldered bitter cherry, cassis, cola and candied violet flavors that are given spine and lift by a core of juicy acidity. Shows sharp focus and resonating smoke and spice notes on the penetrating finish, where dusty, slow-building tannins add gentle grip and focus. 25% new oak.Vinous Media | 94 VMThis is really nicely packed with dark currant, cherry and blackberry fruit that has melded with alder, bay leaf and tar notes. Iron and sanguine details add range on the finish. Approachable, but will gain with some cellaring. Drink now through 2032. 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The massively rich 2018 Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes Blanc comes from the lieux-dits of Les Bessards (two-thirds) and Les Grandes Vignes (one-third). It’s all Marsanne, weighing in at 14.7% alcohol, with a pH of 3.7. Hints of toasted marshmallow mark the nose of this full-bodied beauty, which ideally should be consumed now or after 10-15 years of cellaring. It was almost all barrel fermented and aged, with just a small portion of early-picked fruit made in stainless to provide a blending component. Tasted twice (once blind), with one sample less expressive than the other but built along similar lines.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPChecking in as a blend of 90% Marsanne and 10% Roussanne, the 2018 Hermitage Domaine Des Tourettes Blanc is blockbuster, offering tons of fat, opulence, and hedonistic pleasure while still staying flawlessly balanced and even elegant. Giving up notes of toasted hazelnuts, white flowers, brioche, quince, and white currants, it has good acidity, a stacked mid-palate, and a great, great finish. This cuvée comes from a mix of the L’Ermite, le Sabot, and La Tourette lieux-dits and sees a year on lees, in new and once-used barrels, and there are under 500 cases produced.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDLimpid yellow. Vibrant, mineral-accented aromas of dried pear, Meyer lemon and tarragon pick up hints of jasmine and quinine with air. Chewy and focused on the palate, offering densely packed orchard and pit fruit flavors sharpened by a refreshingly bitter lemon pith accent. Finishes minerally, taut and very long, leaving building floral and mineral notes behind.Vinous Media | 94 VMRipe and languid in feel, with creamed melon, yellow apple and white peach flavors that spread out from the core, bleeding into acacia and brioche notes along the edges. Ends with a hedonistic feel and enough energy to stay honest. Drink now through 2026. 333 cases made. Wine Spectator | 93 WSThis has some exotic, yellow-peach and green-mango aromas with mirabelles and a little spiced honey. The palate delivers a very plush, smooth core of very glossy mirabelles and chilled apple-pie to close. Drink now.James Suckling | 92 JS

(Guigal Hermitage Blanc) Plenty of quince, crushed stone, and white flower notes emerge from the 2018 Hermitage Blanc, a rich, medium to full-bodied white Hermitage. It has a kiss of toasty, nutty notes, but otherwise has completely absorbed its time spent in barrel. Beautifully done, this textured, layered white is going to evolve for two decades or more. (Drink between 2020-2042)Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JD(E Guigal, Hermitage, Rhône, France, White) Extremely full-bodied, possessing touches of dried pear, almond and an inner sweetness to the fruit. Delicious salinity and pleasing acidity, it does finish quite robust and oaky, but it’s not overly powerful and works well. 18 to 24 months in second-fill barrel. (Drink between 2021-2029)Decanter | 94 DEC(Hermitage Blanc- E. Guigal) The Guigal family’s bottling of Hermitage Blanc is almost entirely composed of marsanne, with ninety-five percent of the blend being this grape variety and the other five percent being roussanne, with the vines ranging from thirty to fully ninety years of age! The wine is raised for two years entirely in oak barrels, with the casks all “one wine barrels”. The 2018 version is a lovely young wine, coming in at fourteen percent alcohol and offering up a youthful bouquet of nectarine, pear, a superb base of soil tones, a touch of raw almond, white lilies and just a whisper of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, focused and rally has excellent structure for a 2018 white wine, with a rock solid core, excellent soil undertow and grip, very good acids for the vintage and a long, complex and very well balanced finish. This is excellent juice. (Drink between 2021-2040)John Gilman | 93 JGFull-bodied and expansive on the palate, Guigal’s 2018 Hermitage Blanc exhibits scents of toasted marshmallow, grilled pear, candied citrus and fennel fronds. Round and mouthfilling, it may be drunk now with considerable pleasure for its weight and sheer lusciousness, but lovers of aged Rhône whites will want to set aside a bottle or two for 10 years or so.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPFresh and rounded in feel, with melon, pear and heather honey notes backed by a lemon curd hint on the finish. Bring on the langoustines and saffron aïoli. Drink now. 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

The star of the Delas whites is the 2019 Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes Blanc, based on Marsanne from L’Ermite, Le Sabot (the bottom portion of Les Bessardes) and La Tourette. Barrel fermented and aged in approximately one-third new French oak, it offers scents of crushed stone, pencil shavings, toasted coconut, ripe pear and melon, plus hints of citrus. Full-bodied and rich, it’s creamy in texture and weighty on the palate, yet with great persistence and lingering flavors. Delicious now, I suspect it will close down within the next year or two, yet it should be capable of aging for up to two decades, adding layers of richness and truffled complexity.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPA fresh, fine, direct fragrance - quince, pear and plum. Very rounded and generous on the palate, a little on the fat side. This has real depth however. There’s a vein of acidity buried in the wine which will help give it some freshness, but it’s not as fresh as some this year, it’s very full-bodied, but still very good. Fermented and aged in new and recent barriques, partial malolactic. Drinking Window 2021 - 2029.Decanter | 95 DECStill a bit youthfully compact, but there’s focus and drive to the mix of salted butter, acacia, quince, lemon curd and white peach flavors. This has polished edges offset by a racy spine through it all. Cellar for maximum effect. Marsanne and Roussanne. Best from 2022 through 2032. 475 cases made, 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

A massively rich effort, the 2019 Hermitage Cuvee Emilie Blanc—made almost entirely of Marsanne from the Maison Blanche lieu-dit—boasts scents of crushed stone, pencil shavings and ripe melon. Full-bodied, expansive and plush in the mouth, it showcases the power of white Hermitage without being overwhelming, and it finishes long, with robust hints of licorice that provide a refreshing note. Drink it now or forget it for a decade and drink it from 2031-2040.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPA step up over the 2018, the 2019 Hermitage Cuvée Emilie Blanc is young and unevolved yet has promising notes of honeyed peach, orange marmalade, raw oak, and citrus pith. Medium-bodied and elegant on the palate, it has plenty of texture, good concentration, and a clean finish. It needs 2-3 years of bottle age and should keep for 15 years or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 91+ JD