Rare Italians

wines

The 2018 Barolo Sperss is a gorgeous, gorgeous wine. The aromatics alone are beguiling. Then again, that’s one of the things that makes Barolo such a totally seductive wine. Sweet black cherry, lavender, spice and leather give this unusually translucent Barolo striking layers of dimension. Potent Serralunga tannins are present, but they are beautifully woven into the wine’s fabric. Sadly, production is around 11,000 bottles, down sharply from the 18,000 or so that is more typical.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGLots of rose-petal aromas here, together with some stems and sandalwood, as well plums and berries. Medium-bodied with a tight palate and very fine tannins that run the length of the wine. Linear and focused. Hints of nutmeg and pie crust highlight the palate. Approachable. now, but needs at last three or four years to open. Try after 2026.James Suckling | 95 JS

The 2018 Il Caberlot is a stunning wine. It’s not the most immediate nor explosive Caberlot, but it is such a tremendous example of this wine. The bouquet alone is mesmerizing. Crushed herbs, rose petal, mint, blood orange, incense and sweet pipe tobacco all build in the glass. Imagine Cheval Blanc, but with a good dose of Tuscan sun. Readers who can find the 2018 should not hesitate, as it is magical. I imagine it will be even better in the commercial magnums than this 750ml tasting sample.Antonio Galloni | 100 AG(Il Caberlot “Trentesimo”- Podere Il Carnasciale) The 2018 is the thirtieth vintage of Il Caberlot ever produced by Podere Il Carnasciale, so the Rogosky family has naturally noted this on the label with the “Trentesimo” moniker to mark the occasion. I have to also note my satisfaction at receiving a sample of this wine in a regular-sized bottle (remember that Il Caberlot is only commercialized in magnums), with the label dutifully reporting it as a “demi-magnum”. The wine is an absolute classic in the making, offering up a pure and complex nose of cassis, dark berries, a touch of Tuscan herb tones, Cuban cigar wrapper, a beautiful base of soil tones and a deft framing of cedary new oak. On the palate the wine is pure, refined and full-bodied, with a fine core of black fruit, lovely soil inflection, ripe, buried tannins and a long, superbly balanced and seamless finish. I love the sense of grace here, as the wine comes in at 13.5 percent octane and shows a beautiful synthesis of perfectly ripe fruit and classical aesthetic sensibilities. What a wine to mark the thirtieth anniversary vintage of Il Caberlot! (Drink between 2032-2080)John Gilman | 96 JGCompelling aromas of truffle, violet, raspberry and cherry draw you in, while the supple texture and vibrant structure hold your attention. Balanced and open, this red is appealing from beginning to end. Caberlot. Drink now through 2029. 800 cases made, 120 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 94 WSImpressive aromas of sage, mint and currants follow through to a full body with round, fine tannins that are nicely integrated into the wine. Fresh and vivid finish. Very balanced and attractive. Drink in 2023 and onwards, but already very attractive.James Suckling | 94 JS

Frankly, it’s hard to put this glass down. The 2018 Aglianico del Vulture Superiore Riserva Titolo seduces with a bouquet that pulls the taster down to the earth, blending musky animal tones, incense and grilled herbs offset by mint and spiced-orange. It envelopes the palate with textures of pure silk, seeming to hover with its medium weight. A saturation of citrus-tinged black fruits slowly forms, elevated by inner sage and lavender tones. The 2018 feels nervous through the finish, structured and poised yet full of tension, like a bomb waiting to explode. Sweet spice and licorice notes slowly fade. Elena Fucci has taken the Superiore Riserva Titolo to a whole new level. Forty-eight hours later, this just keeps singing. While still a baby in terms of evolution, the 2018 is nearly impossible to resist now.Vinous Media | 98 VMOn the nose, deep fruit notes of dried figs, plums and mulberries both accentuate and push back on dominant aromas of grilled meat and pepper. The fruit brightens on the palate, but an enduring earthy spiciness maintains depth, while strong yet polished tannins glide into an unexpectedly fresh, saline finish.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEA rich, focused red, with a savory, sanguine edge to the crushed cherry, black plum and raspberry fruit flavors. Offers a lively profile that drapes the firm, chewy tannins to good effect, while accents of stone, dried thyme and sage, orange peel and cracked pink peppercorn linger on the finish. Best from 2025 through 2033. 50 cases made, 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2018 Sandrone Barolo Aleste comes from grapes from the Cannubi Boschis vineyard but is called ’Aleste’ as a combination of the names of Luciano Sandrone’s grandchildren - Alessia and Stefano. These wines are very Burgundy-like in their weight, texture and finesse but with the added depth and grip of Nebbiolo. This 2018 has a delicacy on the nose with bright red cherry and very subtle spice notes. It has a largesse and generosity of texture, with rounded, sandy-textured tannins and a slightly more clipped, assertive note. It just flows with ease and charm across the palate. Very beautiful, with a forceful personality. Wait maybe two years and drink for 20 plus.The Wine Independent | 97 TWIMade with fruit from Cannubi Boschis, the Luciano Sandrone 2018 Barolo Aleste is plump and ripe, but this wine also shows a more delicate character that is its ace card. The aromas are filigreed and fine with dark fruit, spice and licorice. The effect is integrated, and the wine shows a lovely, softer personality to balance out this mildly concentrated expression.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPAn open-knit Barolo highlighted by plum, cherry, leather and tar flavors. Supple in texture before firming up, with dusty, refined tannins lingering on the finish. This should evolve nicely with some bottle age. Best from 2025 through 2043. 800 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2018 Barolo Aleste is gorgeous, but also very quite today. There’s terrific purity to the dark red/purplish fruit and a good bit of volume too, but readers will have to be patient. Bright acids and firm tannins lend energy. I admire the presence and texture here. The Aleste, from Cannubi Boschis, benefits from a site that can handle moisture. This is nicely done.Vinous Media | 94 VMDried red berries and dried flowers, almost tobacco on the nose. Citrus and minty notes add character. Medium-to full-bodied, elegant and silky palate that thickens out with fine, creamy tannins as it progresses. Super texture to this, gently coating the palate. Rather firmer just at the end for now. Really refined and elegant. Best from 2024.James Suckling | 94 JSFragrant purple flower, woodland berry and menthol aromas form the nose along with whiffs of spice. The elegant, medium-bodied palate offers juicy pomegranate, red currant and oak-driven spice set against an acidic backbone. Taut, fine-grained tannins leave a drying close. Drink 2025–2033.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

The 2018 Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne is medium-deep, slightly more garnet in color than the 2017 and in fact the 2017 looks younger. The nose is restrained at first, developing in the glass with delicate cream, spice and a leather note. On the palate It has a jaw-droppingly beautiful texture and weight. This is all about finesse - it is like wearing a very well made suit where you cannot feel you are wearing anything. It is beautifully harmonious - a little less intense than the 2017 but with some brightness and that beautiful weightless quality. It is very Burgundy-like in terms of its weight and texture and reflects the 2018 vintage perfectly with just the right level of concentration and balance.The Wine Independent | 97 TWIOne of my personal favorites, the 2018 Barolo Le Vigne is savory in character and packed with dark fruit. Ripe cherry and redcurrant cedes to spice, licorice and fragrant rose. The oak is integrated, but there are added accents of spice and dark tar. Le Vigne is a blend of fruit from Baudana in Serralunga d’Alba, Villero in Castiglione Falletto, Vignane in Barolo and Merli in Novello.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPA taut red, with alluring aromas and flavors of rose petal, strawberry, cherry, tea and graphite fused to an elegant frame. Reveals its structure on the long finish, where there’s plenty of fruit in the end. Delivers terrific balance and harmony. Best from 2025 through 2043. 1,500 cases made, 350 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe delicate mix of creamy red berries and savory, truffley notes keeps your nose glued to the glass. And that subtlety is carried over into the medium-to full-bodied palate, where there’s a youthful balance of silky fruit and lightly firm tannins that drives gently through the long finish. Subtle is the word, but excellent is the verdict. So tempting to drink now, but give it a couple of years. Try from 2024.James Suckling | 95 JSCamphor, violet, red berry and oak-driven spice are front and center on this fragrant red. Elegantly structured and vibrant, the focused palate delivers juicy red cherry, crushed strawberry, star anise and a hint of mocha alongside taut, fine-grained tannins. Bright acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2026–2033.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThe 2018 Barolo Le Vigne is a mid-weight, tightly wound wine, with a classic sense of austerity that will need at least a few years in bottle to start softening. Red cherry fruit, white flowers, mint and chalk lend brightness and tension throughout. In 2018, the blend of vineyards is Baudana, Villero, Vignane and Merli.Vinous Media | 93 VM