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Out of all of the less than 20 year old wines in the tasting, the 2005 possesses the most aromatic complexity with simply knockout scents of still relatively primary red and dark berry fruit, spice, floral, humus, game and smoked tea. There is strikingly good concentration yet absolutely no sense of heaviness to the seductively textured and velvety broad-shouldered flavors that coat the mouth with abundant reserves of dry extract that also buffer the still very firm tannic spine. In addition to the obvious assets of complexity and concentration, what really impresses me about this exceptionally powerful wine is the impeccable balance and harmony as nary a hair is out of place. Note however that this is going to be one very, very long-lived effort and I wouldn’t touch a bottle for at least another 10 to 12 years. In a word, stunning.Burghound | 97 BH(13.6% alcohol; 30 h/h; 9/26 harvest): Healthy full red. Ripe, rich nose offers a spectacular combination of red and darker fruits, minerals, spices, mocha, mint, dried flowers and underbrush, lifted by strong florality. Wonderfully concentrated, sappy, still-youthful wine with outstanding tactile depth and fruit retention to its flavors of cherry, redcurrant and crushed rock. Combines the energy and precision of the ’08 with the greater volume of the ’09. This compellingly chewy, extract-rich wine, still a bit brooding and short of its peak, expands and builds inexorably on the aftertaste. There’s a 3-D texture and a noble soil character here that I find exhilarating.Vinous Media | 95+ VM

The 2012 Pinot Noir Marcassin Vineyard lags the Chardonnay but is still a brilliant wine. Framboise, black cherries, strawberries, forest floor, and earthy nuances all emerge from this Burgundian, layered, powerful 2012 that has loads of sweet fruit. Brought up in new French oak, it doesn't show a hint of oak, has full-bodied richness and depth, and a great, great finish. Drink it anytime over the coming 10-15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2012 Pinot Noir Marcassin Vineyard, which comes primarily from the Calera clone (although I suspect there are a few mystery clones in their plantings), always seems to remind me of a grand cru from Burgundy’s Côte de Nuits, particularly Morey-St.-Denis. Dense ruby/plum, its sweet nose of strawberries, black cherry liqueur, fresh porcini mushrooms and forest floor is followed by a dark, full-bodied, rich and concentrated wine that is supple, dramatic, and even flamboyant. Drink it over the next 12-15 years.Robert Parker | 97 RP

The approximate blend of the 2013 is outstanding and this is clearly going to be a great bottle in the making, as the wine jumps from the glass in a deep and very pure constellation of cherries, red plums, beautiful spice tones, a touch of cocoa, crystalline minerality and a deft framing of cedar. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, tangy and very refined this year, with a fine core, suave tannins and a long, tangy and very energetic finish. Great juice in the making! (Drink between 2025-2075)John Gilman | 94 JG

Year after year, Egly’s NV Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Les Crayères remains one of the most compelling and reliable wines from the Montagne de Reims. Sourced from a south-facing lieu-dit in Ambonnay that was planted between 1946 and 1947 on shallow chalk soils with just 30 centimeters of topsoil, it was disgorged in October 2024 with a dosage of one gram per liter. This release blends the richer 2017 vintage with the taut, incisive character of 2016. Notably, prior to 2000, Francis Egly produced this cuvée as a single-vintage expression, only later opting for a two-vintage blend to buffer against the variability of any given season. The wine ascends from the glass with a bouquet of remarkable complexity—aromas of acacia, ripe pear, orange zest, toasted nuts and patisserie elements unfurl. Full-bodied, concentrated and layered, with ample chalky structuring extract and mouthwatering acidity, it concludes with a long, saline finish. While I often vacillate between Les Crayères and the Millésime as to which I favor, this year, Les Crayères stands as the most captivating wine in the cellar. It offers immense youthful appeal yet promises to evolve beautifully with age. Readers would be wise not to hesitate—it fully lives up to its reputation, and I’d gladly secure bottles for my own cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RP