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The Biondi-Santi 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is initially a reticent wine and one that does not immediately subscribe to the overstated abundance and exuberance of the vintage. Give it time. I wrote this review after several tastings over several days so I could ensure a more accurate account of the wine’s elegant reveal. Contemplative and exceedingly nuanced in personality, with wild berry, underbrush, ferrous earth and candied orange peel, this has everything to look forward to in terms of its future evolution in the bottle. It displays a pretty ruby color that borders on garnet and polished copper. A silky, mid-weight palate is accented by beautifully managed and silky tannins (this aspect of the mouthfeel is extraordinary), bright freshness and long-lasting fruit momentum. The alcohol is a bit more powerful in this release (at 14.5%), but the effect is supple and smooth nonetheless. I tasted bottle number 256.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RPThe 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva pulls you close to the glass with a deep and seductive display of black raspberry preserves complemented by sweet sage, dried roses and pipe tobacco. With further coaxing, it gains in volume and lift, taking on hints of mint and camphor. This greets the palate with undeniable elegance, casting velvety waves of violet-tinged wild berries and sweet spices across a motivating core of juicy acidity, as a subtle coating of round tannins forms toward the close. While structured and incredibly long, energy remains high, as nuances of cherry pits offset by sour citrus and hints of cedar fade. It’s amazing to experience such energy and purity from a young Biondi Santi Riserva. As pretty as the Annata released last year was, I worried that the extended aging for the Riserva might rob the wine of some of its fruit; instead it is the complete opposite, as this contains the depth and complexity of the best wines of the vintage. I can’t wait to see how the 2015 matures over the next several decades.Vinous Media | 97 VMComplex yet pure, subtle and refined nose that gently evolves, with mossy red cherries, dried roses, chalk, tar and dried orange peel. There is a lift of clove and eucalyptus that makes it so distinctive. A powerful, medium-to full-bodied Brunello, but seamless and bright, with a fine, transparent mid-palate and restrained, mineral austerity. Understated complexity that will need time to bloom. Hold until 2026.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2015 Riserva was born during the brief period between Franco Biondi Santi’s death and subsequent acquisition by luxury company EPI in 2016. Looking to make more accessible wines, Franco’s son Jacopo started picking on 21 September. By the estate’s historic standards, this is relatively late. The outcome is a generous and weighty expression that is less bracing than usual. It coats the mouth without being heavy and is hemmed in by firm, steely tannins. Sweet tobacco and bay leaf punctuate ripe red cherry and lead to a pleasant bitter twist on the finish. Drinking Window 2024 - 2039.Decanter | 94 DEC

This is the best Campo del Drago I have ever had. It really shows the unique character of the elevated single vineyard of 1.5 hectares. Black cherries and flowers with hints of sandalwood and tree bark. Always pure and beautiful. Medium to full body. Ultra-fine tannins. Lightly salty character to the cherry and berry flavors. Extremely long and beautiful. Drink after 2021.James Suckling | 98 JSOnly made in the best vintages, this release of 7,000 bottles represents the top-end wine from Castiglion del Bosco. Fruit is drawn from the magnificent Campo del Drago, which is a vineyard on a high plateau located in one of the wildest and most beautiful corners of the appellation, with endless views spanning toward the Tyrrhenian Sea. The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Campo del Drago is robust and shapely with blackberry, plum, toasted spice and tilled earth. Showing beautifully balanced results, this cru offers good length and power to the mouthfeel.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThis is rich and juicy, displaying cherry, blackberry and iron flavors. The tannins are well-covered by the intensity and ripe, fleshy fruit until the finish, where they flex. Delivers terrific overall complexity, balance and expression. Best from 2024 through 2042. 500 cases made, 60 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSAt first shy, a few swirls of the glass reveals pipe tobacco, sun baked earth, dark spice and menthol aromas. Enveloping and elegantly structured, it’s already almost accessible, offering baked plum, star anise and espresso alongside velvety tannins. Drink 2021 through 2027. Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KOAt first shy, a few swirls of the glass reveal pipe tobacco, sunbaked earth, dark spice and menthol aromas. Enveloping and elegantly structured, it’s already almost accessible, offering baked plum, star anise and espresso alongside velvety tannins. Drink 2021 through 2027. Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEBright, deep red with ruby tinges. Ripe, expressive yet delicate aromas of red fruits, menthol, flowers and wild herbs. Silky and round on entry, then slightly tougher and chewy in the middle, with some smoky oak showing at the back. Large-scaled but not yet creamy or filled in, finishing with some slightly tough oak tannins. Forget about this in your cellar for five years at least.Vinous Media | 92+ VMLush cassis on the nose with plenty of vanilla and cinnamon notes. Juicy and vibrant on the palate, firm tannins structure and great freshness with a core of ripe cherry fruit.Decanter | 91 DEC

Brooding and balsamic, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli is a dark stallion of a wine with a bouquet to meditate to, wafting up exotic spices, flint, incense, dried roses, black cherries and hints of ashen stone. It’s racy yet complex and sensual, with silken textures and masses of mineral-inflected red berry fruits, all guided by a core of zesty acidity as a tinge of sour citrus adds tension throughout. Pleasantly chewy yet still mouthwatering, the 2019 leaves a web of fine tannins, along with a hint of orange zest and cloves to linger on and on and on. This is drop-dead gorgeous.Vinous Media | 98 VMThe estate’s prize plot, Vigna Paganelli was planted in 1964. Fabrizio Bindocci says that while it performs well even in the most challenging vintages, it is only bottled separately in the best years. The rejected fruit of three subsequent selections is completely discarded, rather than used for another wine. Gorgeously perfumed but properly restrained, the 2019 doles out nutmeg, cinnamon, black tea and incense on a persistent backdrop of dried cherry and black plum. Dense and sizeable but deftly balanced in its proportions, it remains effortlessly afloat as it expands assuredly across the palate. Soft, grainy tannins leave the mouth cleansed, yet this needs time, gratifyingly, for all its intricacies to be revealed.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECThe 2019 Vigna Paganelli Riserva is perfumed with gorgeous notes of fresh fallen leaves, incense, rose petal, and currants. The palate has energy and drive, with lithe tannins, fresh just-ripe berries, rosemary, and white pepper. There is a spherical shape to the finish, which is deliciously long. Vigna Paganelli was dry-farmed in this vintage.The Wine Independent | 97 TWIA mix of fruity and savory, this red offers a distinctive ray of graphite, along with cherry, strawberry, juniper, tomato leaf, earth and sanguine flavors. There’s good grip on the finish, but the tannins are softer and broader, more chalky than piercing. Shows fine balance and length, needing a little more time to knit together. Best from 2028 through 2046. 3,300 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe Il Poggione 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli (with 40,000 bottles produced) sees a prolonged 48 months in oak botti with an additional 12 months in bottle. Fruit comes exclusively from a 12-hectare vineyard that was originally planted in 1964. We haven’t seen this Riserva since the 2016 vintage. It starts off with broad richness, and the bouquet fires on all cylinders. It shows tart blackberry and plum with cured tobacco leaf and sweet baking spice. You feel a rich buildup on the palate from what is a naturally concentrated vintage. I have adjusted the drinking window to be a bit shorter compared to past vintages.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli is a deep ruby red color and is dark with aromas of black licorice, sappy herbs, toasted cedar, black cherry, plum pit, turned earth, and cocoa. Full-bodied, it has a lovely, refined texture with a bit of gamey richness, ripe tannins, a plush, velvety texture, and a hearty but well-managed finish. It’s going to drink well over the next 12-15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThis has a concentrated nose of blackberries, licorice and notes of espresso. The palate is medium- to full-bodied with supple tannins and red-fruit flavors complemented by cedar. Elegant Brunello. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2019 Vigna Paganelli Riserva opens with aromas reminiscent of resin, blue flower, pipe tobacco and a whiff recalling burnt rubber. Full-bodied and enveloping, the palate delivers ripe black plum, cherry extract, licorice and tobacco set against a backbone of velvety tannins. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KO

he Lisini 2019 Brunello is compelling, starting with its captivating aromas of fragrant blue flower, hay, perfumed berry, dark exotic spice, new leather and aromatic herb. It’s also delicious, delivering a great depth of flavors including juicy Morello cherry, raspberry croissant, licorice and crushed mint before a blood orange close. A backbone of velvety tannins provides seamless support while fresh acidity keeps it vibrant and balanced. What a gorgeous wine and the best Brunello I’ve had so far from this historic estate. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOMedicinal blackberries, sweet sage, stone dust and candied oranges define the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino. This is juicy and vibrant with violet and lavender-tinged wild berry fruits and chalky mineral tones that form a saturation of minerality toward the close. A web of fine-grained tannins resonates as the 2019 finishes long and staining yet feels only lightly structured. Salted licorice suggestions linger on. This is a classy southern Montalcino Brunello from Lisini.Vinous Media | 94 VMA sleek and structured red with black cherry, cedar and spice aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied with fine tannins and a chewy finish. Integrated and flexing. Drink after 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSThe Lisini 2019 Brunello di Montalcino has a dark and spicy bouquet with prune, cardamom, asphalt and wet stone. The wine is quite developed, and for that reason, I wouldn’t suggest a very long drinking window. There is cola and dried rosemary sprig at the back. This is a dark Brunello with concentrated fruit to drink in the medium term. Production is 40,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

Smooth and delicious, the 2019 Podere Le Ripi Cielo d’Ulisse has captivating aromas of violet, ripe plum, exotic spice, new leather and a whiff of truffle. Full-bodied and enveloping, the palate shows ripe black cherry, raspberry compote, licorice, blood orange and tobacco alongside a backbone of tightly woven, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced while a salty note lingers on the close. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KODark and intense, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Cielo d’Ulisse entices with a burst of exotic spice, zests of tangerine, cedar shavings and rum-soaked cherries. This is cool-toned and racy in style, with crisp wild berry fruits enhanced by vibrant acidity. Violet inner florals arch across the palate. This maintains momentum even as crunchy tannins descend upon the senses, leaving a stain of tart cranberry and orange slowly fading. I expect that three to five years of cellaring will reveal a Brunello of boundless energy. The Cielo d’Ulisse is a single vineyard wine that hails from vineyards in the extreme southwest of Montalcino.Vinous Media | 94 VM

Smooth and delicious, the 2019 Podere Le Ripi Cielo d’Ulisse has captivating aromas of violet, ripe plum, exotic spice, new leather and a whiff of truffle. Full-bodied and enveloping, the palate shows ripe black cherry, raspberry compote, licorice, blood orange and tobacco alongside a backbone of tightly woven, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced while a salty note lingers on the close. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOA medium red hue, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Cielo D’Ulisse is the fourth vintage coming from the vineyards overlooking the Ombrone River. It’s wonderfully expressive and cascades from the glass with aromas of wild Mediterranean herbs, dusty earth, ripe raspberry, fresh leather, and porcini. Medium-bodied, it’s graceful through the palate, with fine tannins, even acidity, and clean mineral accents. It’s a very appealing wine with a lot of character to enjoy over the next 15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDDark and intense, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Cielo d’Ulisse entices with a burst of exotic spice, zests of tangerine, cedar shavings and rum-soaked cherries. This is cool-toned and racy in style, with crisp wild berry fruits enhanced by vibrant acidity. Violet inner florals arch across the palate. This maintains momentum even as crunchy tannins descend upon the senses, leaving a stain of tart cranberry and orange slowly fading. I expect that three to five years of cellaring will reveal a Brunello of boundless energy. The Cielo d’Ulisse is a single vineyard wine that hails from vineyards in the extreme southwest of Montalcino.Vinous Media | 94 VMVanilla, cherry and blackberries macerate in cloves and cinnamon on the nose. The palate is tart and sweet with cherries and citrus before herbs and soil push back and add a sophisticated, earthy, bitter note.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEAn elegant red, offering vivid cherry and strawberry flavors driven by vibrant acidity, with sinewy tannins underneath. Accents of earth and flowers chime in as this winds down on the dense finish. Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe clean and sumptuous 2019 Cielo Ulisse bounces out of the glass with cherry and apricot, as traces of chestnut flit in the background. A pulpy core of juicy red berries is framed by sandy tannins and lifted by bright acidity. This tapers off with a twist of orange peel. Midweight, pretty and immediately approachable. Francesco Illy’s holdings in Montalcino’s western limit sit at a low 150 metres on alluvial, silty soil strewn with stones. While the vines bask in the strong afternoon sun, the thick surrounding forest helps mitigate the heat.Decanter Magazine | 92 DEC