Rare Wines

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Deep ruby-colored with a light purple tinge, the 2016 Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Madonna Del Piano takes on another gear with its rich perfume unfolding with lavender, black cherry, cassis, fresh leather, licorice, fresh soil, and sage. The wine is full-bodied, with a ripe velveteen texture, while maintaining freshness, and it is elegantly rounded through the mid-palate, with notes of black plum, Earl Grey, scorched earth, and tea leaf. This seems to be moving at a glacial pace in its evolution and certainly warrants at least a few more years in cellar. Drink 2026-2050.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDThis is heavenly on the nose with fresh flowers such as violet and cherries with undertones of freshly shaved sandalwood. It’s full-bodied with very fine tannins that are focused and intense with a polished nature. This is a complete wine that impresses at every level. Give it at least five to six years to come together and resolve the tannin structure. Better after 2027.James Suckling | 99 JSExpressive yet complex, this red is already revealing tertiary hints of truffle, fading roses and spice. Features cherry, raspberry, iron, eucalyptus and anise flavors allied to a firm, compact structure. Balanced and long, with fresh fruit, spice and mineral accents lingering on the endless finish. Best from 2025 through 2045. 2,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 98 WSThe Valdicava 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano impresses for its intensity, its balance and its freshness. The wine is medium to full-bodied with a good amount of fruit weight and power that is offset by acidity and the lifted, vibrant quality of the bouquet. If balance is the objective, this wine meets it goals, although like with many of its peers, you certainly won’t miss the deep inner power of this determined Brunello.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano is totally captivating: deep, dark and viral. It smolders up from the glass, with a thrilling mix of cherries and plums complemented by notes of black tea, balsam herbs and ashen stone. With each return to the glass, this seems to expand further, adding nuances of smoke and animal musk. The 2016 is packed full of energy but also youthful tension, showing the radiance of the vintage with its citrus-tinged fruits and depths of minerality. Through it all, energizing acidity maintains harmony, just as fine tannins slowly saturate, resulting in a long finish that resonates on licorice and purple-tinged inner florals. The 2016 is one of the most balanced, yet also prettiest, expressions that I have ever witnessed from Valdicava’s Madonna del Piano.Vinous Media | 96 VM

The 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva is a benchmark wine for the estate and one of the clear standouts of the vintage. It shows gorgeous transparency on the nose, with bergamot, incense, fresh red berries, cherries, and a saline mineral drive. Medium to full-bodied, it’s weightless and incredibly precise, with ripe tannins, focused acidity, and a finish that carries for ages without feeling heavy. This captures what makes the 2019 vintage so compelling, and it should evolve beautifully over the next several decades. Drink 2028-2058.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDHead winemaker Federico Radi describes 2019 as intrinsically generous in every way – even in the quantity of grapes produced. Intense and captivating, the Riserva is already forthcoming with scents of wet earth, porcini, dark red berries, sage and dried mint. Neither opulent nor lean, it is tastefully generous. Dark violet, fresh moss and bittersweet orange perfume the mid-palate. Long, fine tannins are intricately knit giving textural complexity, while steely acidity amplifies the whole. Oily herbs and sweet spice linger leisurely. Complete and aristocratic with nothing out of place, this exudes its impeccable sartorial style and should continue to do so at a steady cadence.Decanter Magazine | 99 DECKeeping with tradition, the 2019 Biondi Santi Brunello Riserva is an absolutely gorgeous wine with class, finesse, depth and serious aging potential. It beguiles with heady scents of violet, wild rose, perfumed berry and Mediterranean brush that on the elegantly structured palate seamlessly segue into succulent wild cherry, licorice, crushed mint and blood orange. Taut, fine-grained tannins provide support while bright acidity keeps it energized and impeccably balanced. What a stunner. It’s still youthfully austere so have patience. Drink 2031–2049. Abv: 13.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 99 KOIntense and expressive, this red evokes plum, raspberry and cherry flavors accented by iron and tobacco. The mouthcoating tannins are dusty and inform the finish, with ample fruit up front that should offset these in the long run. The overriding impression is of elegance, yet patience is required. Best from 2030 through 2050. 1,067 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 98 WSA classy wine with restrained aromas of embers, incense, stony minerality, fresh violets, dried cherries, red currants, leaves and vibrant orange peel. Full-bodied and juicy on the palate, with firm acidity and tannins, a slightly chalky yet ripe texture and flavors of red cherries and graphite. Super-polished and cleansing finish. Outstanding tannins. Biondi-Santi is back! Drink or hold. It will last for decades.James Suckling | 98 JSThe Biondi-Santi 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva shows balanced fruit weight and clear definition, with dark currant and cherry at the core. Retasted one day later, the wine had opened nicely, gaining cohesion and improved harmony. The 2019 growing season delivered healthy, well-ripened fruit with natural concentration, a profile that emphasizes structure and richness. This Riserva is made from a strict selection of the estate’s best fruit, sourced from its oldest vineyards. Fermentation is carried out with indigenous yeasts, followed by extended aging in large Slavonian oak casks (which has been somewhat shortened in recent years). At Tenuta Il Greppo, the historic home of Biondi-Santi in Montalcino, some of the estate’s vines date back to the 1930s, making the oldest plantings over 80 years old. These heritage vines contribute to the depth and lineage of the estate’s Brunello and Riserva wines.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva reveals a darkly floral, balsamic profile as it slowly unfolds in the glass. With coaxing, the nose impresses with a classic array of dried roses, worn leather, dusty earth and spice-encrusted black cherries. The finessed palate displays silky-smooth textures and a pure core of ripe red and black fruit. Saline mineral tones frame the palate and provide a crunchy, savory sensation toward the close. The 2019 concludes with tremendous length and concentration, violet and lavender florals, fine-grained tannins and a persistent lift of sour citrus. This is a stunning Riserva from Biondi-Santi that showcases the estate’s successful pursuit of purity over the last six to seven years. This will require considerable patience for its textures to flesh out. I wouldn’t approach it today without a long decant.Vinous Media | 97+ VM

Tasted over lunch, the Soldera Case Basse 2020 100% Sangiovese shows a softly textured profile with beautifully polymerized tannins that create a taut sounding board for notes of cassis, small berry fruit, violets and crushed stone. Made with spontaneous fermentation in oversized vats and aged carefully in the family cellars in surrounding quiet and darkness, this soulful wine remains true to the spirit of Sangiovese, defined by clarity and finesse. The 2020 vintage has an accessible, open-knit character that suits it well and clearly distinguishes it from the more austere 2019 and the super precise 2021. In this context, 2020 offers a softer, more delicate interlude between the two.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe most vivid crushed cherry gives way to rose pastille, sweet lavender and nuances of clove and exotic spice as the exuberant 2020 Toscana Sangiovese comes to life in the glass. It displays pure class on the palate. It’s silken and soothingly round with a pretty mix of ripe strawberry and blueberry that swirl throughout, as crisp mineral tones and a contrasting tinge of sour citrus add unparalleled depth. Incredibly complex yet juicy and spry, the 2020 leaves crunchy tannins that firm up the impossibly long finish without slowing its momentum. I don’t recall ever tasting a young Soldera that showed this much energy and verve. It’s already so pleasurable yet has the balance to mature beautifully over the coming decades.Vinous Media | 97 VMTasted from a 65-hectoliter cask, the 2020 Sangiovese is plush and fruity at this stage, although it’s starting to reveal its mineral underpinnings, with dark blackberry notes, graphite, and violets. Medium to full-bodied, it offers a velvety texture, with ripe and refined tannins, a good deal of meaty richness through the mid-palate, and a seamless structure. There’s both purity and refinement across each of the samples tasted. The 2020 showed a good deal of completeness already prior to bottling and I expect it will have a good deal of cellaring potential.Jeb Dunnuck | 96-99 JD

A complex and minerally wine with aromas of crushed stones, graphite, red cherries, licorice, dried flowers and aromatic herbs. Full-bodied, tense and crisp on the palate, with firm, velvety tannins and a juicy, chalky yet ripe finish with fruity and gamy flavors. Best from 2028.James Suckling | 96 JSThe Pieve Santa Restituta 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina delivers power and a full-bodied style shaped by a warm vintage and carefully calibrated oak aging under the Gaja family’s expert hand. It shows notable volume and texture, with an open-knit feel that reveals black fruit and spice on the close. Tightly wound at present, it requires more time to age and fully integrate its elements. This is a production of 14,400 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina boasts a dark ruby hue and a bouquet of crushed blackberries, dusty sage, talc, nuances of mint and orange zest. It’s racy with bright acidity and crisp wild berry fruits that slowly saturate the senses, further enhanced by an array of grippy tannins. This Brunello finishes with excellent length and heroic structure, leaving a cascade of inner florals and subtle licorice twang.Vinous Media | 95 VMCurrently resting in concrete, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino Renina is a jeweled ruby hue and offers aromatics that are compact and pure with liqueur of red cherries. It’s more consistent on the palate, with ripe tannins, seamless acidity, crystalline freshness, and a very even and long finish, but it’s not lacking for ripeness. I predict this will be a very successful vintage for this wine, which is more similar to 2019 in terms of its more noble structure.Jeb Dunnuck | 95-97 JD

A sleek and graceful wine with aromas of Parma violets, licorice, red fruit and a touch of mint. Full-bodied, it shows elegant tannins with freshness and well-tamed power. Amazing length, with a polished cherry pit aftertaste. Drinkable now, but intended for aging. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSA layered and complex expression, the Pieve Santa Restituta 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille combines dark fruit and oak with a deep plummy core accented by delicate hints of exotic spice. A precise mineral line runs through the wine and leads to fine, powdery tannins. The overall profile remains tightly wound at this young stage and will benefit from time to settle into a more integrated and complete expression. Sugarille is known to make wines with a subtle sweet-edged richness and supple yet structured tannins, shaped by soils rich in galestro and white clay that lend both age-worthy structure and mineral complexity. Production totals 9,500 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille bursts from the glass with masses of thyme, incense, rosemary and cedar before giving way to dried strawberries. It presents a subtle inner sweetness and elegant texture, coming across as weighty yet refined, with polished red berry fruits swirling throughout and leaving a bitter licorice tinge to linger on the palate. A complex web of fine-grained tannins flexes on the palate as a tart wild berry saturation lingers incredibly long. The 2021 is youthfully dense and tightly wound today, with the balance for a long and glorious evolution.Vinous Media | 96+ VMThe 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino Sugarille was also resting in concrete when I tasted it in November of 2024. (The blend was completed in July.) It displays a darker red color and is deeper and more layered on the nose, with darker cherry fruit liqueur, sappy herbs, and fresh earth. It’s juicy and ripe at this early stage, with very nice balance, ripe tannins, a full, rounded feel, and a deeper mineral richness.Jeb Dunnuck | 95-97 JD