Refreshing Whites

wines

Intensely herbal and tightly wound, this tastes like a GG, thanks to the firm and complex structure. Long, ultra-mineral and herbal finish. This needs some time to unwind, but has great potential. From organically grown grapes with Fair’n Green certification. Drinkable now, but best from 2022.James Suckling | 95 JSFrom an open, south-facing vineyard on red sandstone, the 2020 Roxheimer Höllenpfad Riesling trocken is pure but ripe and intense on the nose that reveals ripe and stewed apple aromas with a fine phenolic spiciness and reductive richness. Juicy-piquant and salty-crystalline on the palate, this is an intense yet very elegant and still slightly astringent dry Riesling with fine tannic grip and good tension. 12.5% alcohol. Tasted at the domain in July 2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

A bright, lively version, with the mix of apricot, peach and white nectarine fruit flavors enlivened by honeysuckle and acacia notes through the juicy finish. Drink now through 2026. 400 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 93 WSThis family makes two beautiful Condrieu, both of which are worth your time and money. Starting with the 2020 Condrieu, it has a classic nose of orange blossom, exotic flowers, and honeysuckle in a balanced, medium to full-bodied, incredibly pure style. It sees one-third new French oak, but you wouldn’t know it by tasting it.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDLovely nose of ripe peach and melon with honeysuckle and jasmine notes filling in the details of the colorful yet subtle nose. Rich and viscous, yet retaining delightful freshness that encourages you to linger over this classic Condrieu. You feel the weight slightly at the finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 92 JSBottled in June 2021, the 2020 Condrieu was singing when I tasted it. Two-thirds of the volume was aged in tank, while one-third went into new oak, yet there’s no overt woodiness here, just pristine floral notes backed by ripe melon flavors. With less opulence and fewer apricot notes than the 2019, it’s medium to full-bodied, silky and elegant, with just the merest hint of bitterness evident on the lingering finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

A beautiful chardonnay with cooked apple, dried mango and mineral character with a pumice undertone. It’s full-bodied with solid tension and a curated finish. Extremely polished and focused. Tensioned. No malo. Made from organic grapes. Drink now.James Suckling | 94 JSThe aromas are restrained but compelling, influenced perhaps by the herb gardens that grow alongside the vineyard. There is chamomile and verbena together with just a hint of the apricot and mango of ripe California Chardonnay. The palate is equally restrained, refreshingly steely, with a sinewy backbone of acidity supporting ripe yellow tree fruit. Malolactic fermentation was blocked but a plushness exists to the texture from battonage and there is a definite sensation of spongy compression on the mid palate, generous and delicious. The finish is pure-fruited and long. This is a lovely, refreshing wine to drink right now, light on its feet but sinewy as a dancer.Decanter | 94 DECFresh and expressive, featuring Honeycrisp apple, yuzu and lemon blossom flavors that show hints of marzipan and nutmeg, this white offers wonderful restraint and focus. The long, juicy finish reveals a hint of fresh-grated ginger. Drink now through 2030. 1,609 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe 2020 Chardonnay Carbone is terrific. Coming from older vines (planted in 1988), it has a pretty, perfumed nose of lemon curd, ripe melon, and white flowers, as well as a subtle tropical edge. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied, with a solid spine of acidity and a great finish. It shines for its purity and elegance while still bringing good depth of fruit and concentration.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDThe 2020 Chardonnay Carbone is sourced from old vines in the Berry Lane vineyard in Coombsville, right next to the Carbone winery. The blocked malo style yields a Chardonnay built on brightness and energy, with lovely citrus, floral and savory accents. This is such a gorgeous wine.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Plenty of rich, ripe apricot and peach fruit, with lemon thyme and lemon verbena. Not overly full-bodied, this is more measured on the palate than some, well-tailored, with plenty of salty extract and scintillating acidity. With such a long finish, it’s exceptional this year. Aged in oak barriques, 35% new. Tasted non-blind. Drinking Window 2022 - 2032.Decanter | 96 DEC

Mike Grgich, who turned 100 in April 2023, emigrated from Croatia to California in 1958 and worked his way up as a winemaker until, in 1973, he produced the Chateau Montelena Chardonnay that triumphed in the 1976 Judgement of Paris tasting. His own winery, then Grgich Hills Cellar, was founded as a partnership in 1977. Grown near San Pablo Bay, the estate Chardonnay is fermented and aged in barrels and foudres, 40% of which are new French oak. Ronan Sayburn MS: Gunflint reductive nose with green cardamom, cucumber skin, oyster shell and seaweed. Smoky subtle oak. Lean, tight and mineral. Eugenio Egorov: Hints of citrus and caramel with a touch of vanilla on the nose. Creamy and vibrant with beautiful citrus and balanced acidity. Ben Gubbins: Struck match, toast and lime aromas. The palate is firm and citrussy, holding tight through a citrus and pineapple finish.Decanter | 95 DECAromas of dried orange peel, lemon grass and hay. Medium-bodied with lovely complexity. Herbs and dried citrus meld together, with a hint of white tea adding intrigue. Well composed. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSA non-malolactic wine—made in the spirit of the Chateau Montelena Chardonnay that impressed at the Paris tasting in 1976—Grgich’s 2020 Estate Grown Chardonnay features gentle toasty notes, a hint of roasted hazelnut, plus bright pineapple and citrus fruit. It’s medium-bodied, zesty and refreshing, with a long, clean finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThis fruity, fresh and well-balanced wine offers an appetizing mixture of lemony crispness along with baked apple richness. A relatively light body and smooth texture bring out more ripeness and butter on the palate and finish. Wine Enthusiast | 92 WENo written review provided. | 92 W&S

Ripe and poised nose of peach, citrus rind, hints of cream and oyster shell minerality. Classy palate with a touch of oak, long, dry and chalky finish.Decanter | 96 DEC(Maison Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Vieilles Vignes - 1946 Villages White) Firm reduction presently dominates the underlying fruit. Otherwise, there is very good freshness and vibrancy suffusing the intensely mineral-driven flavors that are supported by citrus-tinged acidity on the impressively long and bone-dry finale. This is a very fine Chablis villages. (Drink starting 2026)Burghound | 89-92 BH

The 2020 Muscadet “la Louvetrie” from Jo Landron is crafted mostly from vines that are thirty to forty years of age, with some younger vine fruit also included. The wine delivers a lovely bouquet of breadfruit, lemongrass, briny maritime scents, wet stone minerality and a nice touch of leesiness. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and complex, with a good core and mineral drive, zesty acids and a good long finish that is just a touch pinched today on the backend from its screwcap. Fifteen minutes in decanter unlocks the wine completely on the finish, but the early signs of reduction issues would lead me to drink this wine in the next year or two, rather than tucking it away in the cellar. Once it opens up on the backend, it is very good. (Drink between 2022 - 2024)John Gilman | 92 JG

The 2020 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru is consistent with my previous tasting in January. Exquisite definition on the nose, real mineralité here. The palate is intense and penetrating, touches of orange zest and spice building wonderfully towards the finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 97 VM

I love the dry whites from the Sauternes area, and this is a good example - and of why Sémillon is such an interesting grape to work with in crafting dry whites with personality. A little less round in mouthfeel from some in the area (not appellation - this is Bordeaux Blanc), but still with slate texture and minerality showing how well the soils here can work for dry whites, and an excellent juicy delivery of citrus and white pear. Drinking Window 2021 - 2026.Decanter | 93 DECThis is a beautiful, layered white with solid structure and intensity. Full-bodied. Lots of grapefruit and dried green-mango character. 54% semillon, the rest sauvignon. Best ever. Beautiful to drink now.James Suckling | 93 JSComposed of 54% Semillon and 46% Sauvignon Blanc, the 2020 Le Blanc Sec de Suduiraut is being aged for six months in vats (75%) and the rest in oak barrels, 30% of which are new. It hits the ground running with vibrant notions of freshly squeezed limes, lemon meringue pie and Granny Smith apples, plus hints of dillseed and white pepper. The medium-bodied palate delivers an impressive satiny texture along with a racy line cutting through the citrus and apple-inspired flavors, finishing long and steely.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RP

The 2020 Grüner Veltliner is more savory than sweet with crushed rocks, musky pears, apricots and hints of flint. This is round and soothing, displaying a pleasant inner sweetness and vivid ripe orchard fruits balanced by saline-mineral tones. The 2020 tapers off long and staining, yet also lightly-structured, leaving hints of candied lime. There’s great potential here.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The 2020 Sylvaner is wickedly fresh and floral with crushed stone, yellow flowers and pretty young peach forming its bouquet. It’s silky upon entry, yet quickly builds in salty, savory tension with a rich mix of green apple and nectarine. There’s so much complexity and depth here, yet it’s still youthfully inward, finishing long and lightly-structured. The 2020 Sylvaner has energy to burn.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2020 Dão Branco from Lúcia Ferreira is crafted from a cépages of twenty-five percent Encruzado, thirty-two percent Malvasia Fina, nineteen percent Bicoal and fourteen percent Gouveio. The wine is fermented and aged in stainless steel. The 2020 version is drinking beautifully today, delivering a refined bouquet of white peach, fresh lime, a touch of casaba melon, white soil tones, gentle floral tones and a hint of beeswax in the upper register. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a lovely core of fruit, fine soil undertow and grip and a long, well balanced and very classy finish. This is an excellent wine that still has years and years of life ahead of it. (Drink between 2023 - 2040)John Gilman | 92 JG

I love every wine that Mary Taylor chooses and this 2020 Muscadet from Madame Jacqueline Delaunay is no exception. Her 2020 Muscadet is right in it sweet spot of evolution today, offering up a bright and complex bouquet of lime, breadfruit, ocean breeze, gentle leesy tones, wet stone minerality and a gentle topnote of lime blossoms. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and nicely mineral in profile, with a good core, a lovely spine of acidity, impeccable balance and focus and a long, complex and zesty finish. Fine juice. (Drink between 2023 - 2035)John Gilman | 91 JG

The Tormena family owns 7.5ha on some of the best sites of the hills of Farra di Soligo, from which the young Martino Tormena makes light, dry wines which are a masterclass in finesse. His Extra Brut has apple peel and green pear on the nose, with floral nuances and a faintly salty background. Fresh, agile and long, it's an immaculate example of everything you ask for from a Prosecco. Drinking Window 2021 - 2024.Decanter | 94 DECWhite spring flower and white stone fruit aromas shape the delicate, enticing nose. Dry and savory, the tangy palate offers ripe pear, yellow apple and white almond before a hint of saline. Bright acidity and refined bubbles provide the backdrop.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

Enticing fruit-cocktail nose with a lemony twist, as well as some honey and meadow flowers. Medium-bodied with intense, super clean fruit flavors and a delicious finish. So well balanced. Enjoy now.James Suckling | 93 JSA blend of equal parts fiano and greco, this wine offers flavors of cool citrus in a round, creamy texture. Scented with apple blossom, chamomile and bee pollen, the wine gains richness with air, yet remains high-toned and refreshingWine & Spirits Magazine | 91 W&SA creamy white, with juicy yellow apple and pear fruit laced with hints of vanilla, verbena, anise and toast. Reveals a subtle, pleasing plumpness that’s refreshed and balanced by citrusy acidity and a tang of salinity. Fiano and Greco. Drink now. 1,000 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

(Chablis “La Butte O”- Domaine Patrick Piuze) The new bottling of Chablis villages that Patrick has named “La Butte O” hails from vines planted in 1982. The wine offers up a superb aromatic constellation of pear, tangerine, lime zest, a gorgeous base of chalky soil tones, a touch of paraffin and a topnote of straw. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and racy, with a lovely core, excellent soil undertow, bouncy acids and excellent length and grip on the impeccably balanced finish. A great new addition to the portfolio! (Drink between 2024-2040)John Gilman | 92 JGA ripe version, this hints at white flowers, apricot and sweet spices, with a core of apple and lemon flavors. There is an appealing crispness here, revealing a vein of mineral that lingers on the finish. Drink now through 2027.Wine Spectator | 92 WS(Maison Patrick Piuze Chablis - Butte O Villages White) Ripe and wafting aromas include those of white peach, lime, algae and a pretty floral nuance. The relatively generously proportioned medium weight flavors possess reasonably good punch that carries over to the lingering finale that is supported by citrus-tinged acidity. This delicious effort should again drink well on the younger side. (Drink starting 2024)Burghound | 88-91 BHThe 2020 Chablis La Butte “O” is the debut release from the parcel previously farmed by Piuze’s former boss Jean-Marie Guffens (Domaine Verget). The lieu-dit is actually Butteaux, but Village, not Premier Cru. This has a fine, lively citrus peel and lime bouquet that springs from the glass. The palate is well balanced with fine poise, delivering more lime and citrus peel, but it needs a little more matière to develop on the finish. Fine.Vinous Media | 88-90 VMA new cuvée for Piuze, which readers might remember in a different incarnation chez Maison Verget, the 2020 Chablis La Butte ’O’ offers up aromas of pear, fresh bread, citrus zest, exotic botanicals, orange oil and pastry cream, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and racy palate that concludes with a long and saline finish. I’ll leave readers to imagine to which nearby climat its name advertises. Drink Date 2021 - 2035Robert Parker The Wine Advocate | 90 RP

Matured 24 months on the lees, the 2020 Clisson from Domaine de la Pépière reveals a complex and mineral bouquet with aromas of licorice, spices, lemon oil and white fruits. Medium-bodied, crystalline and mineral-driven, it’s pure and clean with a delicate texture and an energetic mid-palate, marked on the finish by bright, racy acids that interweave with an impressive bitterness. This is an excellent rendition of the Clisson terroir.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

The 2020 Pinot Gris Occam’s Razor is a one-of-a-kind, skin-contact Pinot Gris wine that is showing nutty and earthy tones alongside ripe pear and marzipan notes on the palate. The texture from the extended bâtonnage really impresses. This is a layered and delicious wine that overdelivers for the price.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Zesty rich white from one of Italy’s warmest regions. An old historical estate owned by the creators of Sassicaia, this Grechetto comes from famed vineyards on the estate of the famous castle of Titignano. Featured at Michelin starred restaurant Ai Fiori in New York City, it’s nose is both packed with notes of citrus and florals, while the palate is high in acidity but also medium bodied making it perfect for all seasons.Sokolin Panel | 94+ SP

“Creamy and refreshing, Rigogoli bursts with flavors of peach, almond, sweet spice and finishes with a clean, sea-swept minerality. The native Grechetto di Todi pairs well with Viognier which rounds out Grechetto’s acidity, but also serves to add more complex aromas to this wine.” Sokolin Tasting Panel | 95 SP

This has aromas of orange peel, plums, raspberries, wild strawberries, violets and tobacco leaves. Excellent freshness with lightly bitter citrus and herb notes lifting the wild berry fruit, supported by fine tannins. Drink now.James Suckling | 92 JS(Godello “Pagos del Galir”- Virgen del Galir) The 2020 Godello “Pagos del Galir” bottling from Cuné’s Virgen del Galir property is lovely this year. As I have mentioned in the past, this wine hails from the single vineyard of A Malosa, with the wine fermented and raised in stainless steel tanks. The 2020 is fairly ripe, coming in at fourteen percent octane this year, but impressively fresh and vibrant on both the nose and palate,. The bouquet offers up a refined blend of lemon, pear, a bit of raw almond, stony minerality, citrus blossoms and just a whisper of beeswax in the upper register. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a superb core, lovely soil signature and grip, sound framing acids and a long, well-balanced and quite wide open finish. Like many 2020 whites, this does not have a ton of acidity, but plenty to carry it over the next ten to twelve years. (Drink between 2022-2035)John Gilman | 92 JGThe white 2020 Pagos del Galir A Malosa Godello was produced with grapes from a large vineyard (21 hectares!) planted over four years after purchasing over 100 small plots from local growers. So, it has different soils, expositions and altitudes. In 2020 they used the grapes from the lower and middle parts, the oldest plantings on slate soils fermented in stainless steel, barrels (500 and 600 liters) and oak foudres and then matured in foudres and barrels for seven months. 2020 saw a very early harvest with higher yields than 2019, resulting in a wine with 13.5% alcohol and 6.5 grams of acidity. They have seen that small barrels don’t work in the region and have moved to larger sizes, all from French oak. The nose has a Burgundian feeling to it, spicy and with a toasty twist. The oak is still there, so it might need more time to get that creaminess integrated, but it’s very clean and of high quality. There is great purity, definition and precision here. The wine is elegant and subtle, with a long, dry and tasty finish. It has good acidity, one of the challenges with Godello. 19,000 bottles and 300 magnums were produced. It was bottled in May 2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91+ RPLight, vivid yellow. Fresh, mineral-tinged citrus and orchard fruits and a powerful floral quality on the perfumed nose. Juicy and focused on the palate, offering lively Meyer lemon, pear and honeysuckle flavors that deepen through the back half. A dusty mineral flourish adds firm cut to the persistent finish, which features clinging citrus fruit and floral notes.Vinous Media | 91 VM

Readers may not know it, but this team makes some incredible whites. The 2020 Virginie De Valandraud Blanc has a beautiful perfume of bright citrus, lemon pith, and chalky minerality as well as a medium to full-bodied, concentrated, yet still racy and vibrant style on the palate. It’s gorgeous today, but this will evolve gracefully for 15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDTypical Sauvignon Blanc nose of herbs, peas, apple and stalky elderflower with some white chocolate. Bright, textured and clear, a lovely clean sensation, I like the creamy yet piercing lemon and lime. Thrilling with clarity and elements of chalky, lemon, salty lime, nectarine and bitter orange peel. In a quiet phase but plenty of appeal.Decanter | 93 DECThis has aromas of almonds, thyme, clove, lemons and green apples. Crushed stones, too. Creamy, medium-bodied and textured, with a nutty thread throughout. Excellent weight and intensity. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2020 Virginie de Valandraud Blanc is a very pretty and expressive dry white. Hints of passionfruit, tangerine oil, mint and pineapple all grace this airy, weightless white.Vinous Media | 92 VMThe 2020 Virginie de Valandraud Blanc leaps from the glass with exuberant notes of green guava, passion fruit and ripe pears, plus hints of coriander seed, lemongrass and wet pebbles. The medium-bodied palate has impressive purity and intensity, delivering a racy backbone to offset the tropical fruit flavors, finishing long and lively.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPCrackles nicely from the start, with oyster shell, lemon peel and gooseberry notes. Shows lots of mouthwatering zip through the finish, which brings you back for another sip. Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris. Drink now through 2024. 1,200 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS