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As is almost invariably the case, Dauvissat’s 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons is sensual and perfumed, wafting from the glass with aromas of orange oil, peach, jasmine and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, it’s vibrant and fleshy, with an ample core of fruit, racy acids and a long, saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2020 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru is more floral on the nose compared to the preceding Les Séchets. White flowers, dandelion and touches of orange zest develop in the glass, precise and finessed. The palate is structured with good grip and a slightly waxy texture, building beautifully toward a very persistent finish. Give this 2–3 years in bottle (at least).Vinous Media | 91-93 VM(Chablis “Vaillons”- Domaine Vincent Dauvissat) The 2020 Vaillons from Monsieur Dauvissat is just as beautifully structured out of the blocks as the Séchet, sharing that same classical sense of balance and reserve, so it too will deserve just a few years of hibernation in the cellar before starting to drink with generosity. But, the potential here is enormous, as the wine offers up a fine bouquet of apple, pear, chalky minerality, white lilies, citrus peel and just a touch of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, precise and full, with a rock solid core, beautiful acidity and mineral drive, impeccable balance and a long, focused and nascently complex finish. (Drink between 2026-2060)John Gilman | 93+ JG

This is produced from a 0.32ha parcel that lies right on the border between Puligny and Chassagne. The wine also seems to be a balance between the two, with a bit of the power and depth of the Chassagne side, opposite some of the silky finesse and elegance of Puligny. Fermented and aged in 50% new wood, this is a wine that has a seamless integration of citrus and orchard fruit, floral notes, and a richer, creamy, buttery side that will age spectacularly well over time. Drinking Window 2025 - 2040.Decanter | 96 DEC

The primacy of the citrus and green apple fruit is dramatic, but there is depth and nuance here as well, not to mention fresh acidity and enough extract to make the finish linger enticingly on the palate. Boillot’s Clos de la Mouchère is a monopole of nearly 4ha in the lieu-dit Les Perrières. The vines are more than 80 years of age, and each section is vinified and matured separately in cask (70% new). This wine has surprising volume, concentration and length – assuredly close to grand cru in quality. Drinking Window 2025 - 2040.Decanter | 96 DEC

The 2020 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru is consistent with my previous tasting in January. Exquisite definition on the nose, real mineralité here. The palate is intense and penetrating, touches of orange zest and spice building wonderfully towards the finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 97 VM

Pale lemon colour. Very little nose as yet, too early perhaps for a wine of this potential power – which it certainly has on the palate, and very good acidity as well. The immense square of fruit in the mouth doesn’t yet show specific flavours but everything hangs together impressively for what will be an imposing Bâtard. Tasted: November 2021.Jasper Morris | 97-99 JMAromas of buttery orchard fruit, citrus zest and stone fruit mingle with hints of white flowers and freshly baked bread to introduce the 2020 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru (Maison Louis Jadot), a full-bodied, ample and layered wine that’s taut and structured, with racy acids and fine depth at the core. This, too, shows plenty of promise.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPHere too there is a subtle application of wood framing the beautifully layered nose of white peach, carnation, citrus confit and a plethora of spice wisps. There is a bit more size, weight and volume to the solid concentrated flavors that brim with dry extract on the palate staining, powerful and impressively persistent finish. This is also quite tightly wound and packed with development potential. (Drink starting 2032)Burghound | 92-95 BHIt is classic Bâtard, rich and almost honeyed. The wine avoids heaviness, however, and simply tends toward the richer side of the spectrum. This is made from fruit purchased from the Puligny side, most of it from very old vines. It is done in large, double-sized casks to reduce the influence of the wood.Decanter | 94 DECThe 2020 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has more attack and penetration compared to the Bienvenue, greater mineralité and terroir expression. The palate is finely balanced with plenty of ripe citrus fruit laced with stem ginger and dried orange rind. Perhaps it just cuts away a little swiftly on the finish, but otherwise this is a decent 2020 white. Closure: DiamVinous Media | 91-93 VM

Cool, pure and elegant aromas include those of honeysuckle, green apple and a pretty range of citrus elements. There is a bit more volume if less minerality to the medium weight flavors that deliver excellent length on the balanced if slightly less complex finale. This is also very good and offers similar development potential.Burghound | 91-93 BH

A markedly more floral-suffused and slightly cooler nose reflects notes of both white and yellow peach, citrus confit and a plenitude of spice elements. Here too the palate impression is seductive thanks to the superb concentration of the powerful and almost painfully intense broad-shouldered flavors that also display superb length on the balanced and equally tightly coiled finish. If you can find it, buy it.Burghound | 95 BHThis superb rendition of Bâtard has surprisingly ripe notes of quince and melon de Cavaillon, acacia flower, and spice. The texture is dense and rich but kept lively by the fresh acidity of 2021. The grapes come from three parcels totaling nearly a half hectare. Two are planted with vines more than fifty years of age, and all three are in Chassagne near the border with Puligny. This year Blain stirred the lees (not always done) to give the wine a bit more density and depth.Decanter | 94 DEC

Firm reduction and a whiff of oak dominate the nose at present. Much more interesting are the beautifully textured, racy and detailed medium weight flavors that also possess a highly sophisticated mouthfeel while exhibiting stunningly good length on the bitter zest-inflected finish that goes on and on. This is terrific and easily delivers grand cru quality.Burghound | 94-96 BHMid lemon colour. As always, the bouquet rises above the others. I feel the need to keep on sniffing this! Brings a smile to the face. The 2021 Domaine Leflaive Pucelles offers such a complex mix of fruits, fresh apricot along with a mix of quality citrus, good density but above all a stylishness that expresses itself in a hugely long finish. Perfect balance with a lifted fresh elegance at the finish. This may yet earn a fifth star later in life. Drink from 2027-2035.Jasper Morris | 94-96 JMThe 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru has a crisp, petrichor and green apple-scented bouquet, tight at first but opening up nicely with aeration. The palate is fresh and crisp with a subtle reduction at play, fine depth, lightly spiced with stem ginger and a dab of lemongrass towards the finish. This should drink nicely over the next decade.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

In 2021, the domaine protected this site above all from frost but still lost half their crop, despite being surrounded by the also well-protected vines of Domaine Leflaive. Accessible almost even now, the aromas of green apple and passionfruit, coconut, butter, and baking spice are almost opening even now. There is a lovely freshness and silky texture, yet this is a powerful wine with impressive length and density at the end. This should open in five years and continue to improve for at least twenty-five more.Decanter | 96 DECA gorgeously fresh, airy and cool nose combines notes of green apple, a panoply of white flowers nuances, wet stone and a pretty array of exotic spice elements, especially jasmine. There is a notably more refined mouthfeel to the tautly muscular and overtly mineral-driven medium weight plus flavors that exhibit focused power on the impressively long, balanced, youthfully austere and very classy finale. This is exceptionally stylish and a wine that should easily reward a decade plus of keeping.Burghound | 94 BH

One of the Dauvissat specialities, the La Forest is a triumph in 2021. From seven small parcels, the total site is less than 1ha with average vine age more than 40 years. Intriguing, slightly smoky nose, highly distinctive and different to others in the range. Plenty of power, ripe stone fruit flavours, zesty citrus acidity with a herbaceous edge adding an extra dimension. Definitely of grand cru quality.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2021 Chablis 1er Cru La Forest is a young classic, mingling scents of sweet citrus oil and peach with notions of white flowers, struck match, bee pollen and youthful reduction in an incipiently complex bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and textural, it’s concentrated, taut and incisive, with a long, mineral finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThere is a hint of phenolic character on the aromas of crushed leaf, mineral reduction, lemon-lime and seaweed. The denser, succulent and powerful larger-scaled flavors are supported by a firm acid spine on the stony, youthfully austere and bitter citrus rind finale. This is quite dry and I very much like the balance though I would note that at least some patience is strongly suggested as this is quite tightly wound today. In a word, terrific.Burghound | 94 BHI always think of Vincent Dauvissat’s la Forest as his baby les Clos, as with ten years or more of bottle age, the two often resemble each other a bit aromatically and flavor-wise. The 2021 version of la Forest chez Dauvissat is going to be stellar. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a complex mix of pear, fresh lime, flinty minerality, citrus blossoms, discreet vanillin oak and a topnote of beeswax. On the palate the wine is deep, pure and full, with a superb core of fruit, excellent complexity and cut, fine focus, bright acids and a long, complex and impeccably balanced finish. This is superb. (Drink between 2026 - 2060)John Gilman | 94 JGAlso a fine clear colour, though without a green tint. The Forest 2021 has a solid full fruit on the nose, perhaps less intense at the edges. Very pure white fruit, good acidity, not the volume which the 2022 will have but it is coming out very well even so. Drink from 2026-2033. Tasted: May 2023.Jasper Morris | 93 JM

The 2021 les Clos from Vincent Dauvissat is another brilliant wine in the making. The bouquet is deep, nascently complex and very precise, offering up a constellation of tart orange, apple, pear, flinty minerality, citrus zest, a gentle framing of vanillin oak and a topnote of anise. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and complex, with a great core, outstanding mineral drive and grip, a lovely spine of acidity and a long, focused and perfectly balanced finish. Another simply stunning wine. (Drink between 2029 - 2075)John Gilman | 97 JGThe 2021 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is more open on the nose than Les Preuses, more floral with citrus peel and orange blossom aromas. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, lightly spiced, quite cohesive but maybe the Les Preuses shows a little more sophistication towards the finish. This should evolve into a divine Les Clos but as usual, it will need time.Vinous Media | 94-96 VMGhislain Dauvissat insisted we tasted Clos before Preuses. Dauvissat’s Les Clos shows all the power and weight which one would expect of this famous climat. Stone fruit, minerality, a long saline/salty finish. Very deep, very classy, this just needs around five years in which to mature before it will truly show its best.Decanter | 95 DECA discreet application of wood suffuses the restrained and beautifully layered nose of mineral reduction, iodine, tidal pool, white orchard fruit and a vague hint of phenolic character. The super-sleek, dense and intense broad-shouldered flavors possess a palate etching mouthfeel while delivering simply remarkable length on the stony, austere and very dry finale that is akin to rolling small rocks around the mouth. The intensity really builds as it sits on the palate and overall, this beauty is superb.Burghound | 95 BHOne of the fuller yellow colours and a bouquet that is more ample if perhaps less fine than Preuses. Some vanilla too. Much more clarity on the palate, a little savoury apple alongside a sweeter white fruit, a good balancing acidity. and fair length. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: May 2023.Jasper Morris | 94 JM

The 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru has a clean, precise bouquet with apple blossom, white peach, crushed stone and wet pavement scents, beautifully proportioned and focused. The palate is well balanced, certainly one of the more powerful Premier Crus with outstanding length on the finish thanks to its spicy, stem ginger touch. Outstanding.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMFirm reduction completely overshadows the fruit. Otherwise, there is excellent volume to the seductively textured medium weight flavors that exude plenty of minerality that adds lift to the succulent, balanced and gorgeously persistent bitter lemon-tinged finish that goes on and on. This isn’t quite as concentrated as the Folatières but it’s finer and stunningly long. This may not be the best Sauzet Combettes ever but in time, it should be in the conversation, it’s that good.Burghound | 93-95 BHHappily, there is much more 2021 Combettes chez Sauzet than the En Richard, and the wine is every bit as beautiful. The bouquet jumps from the glass in a crystal clear blend of fresh lemon, apple, lime, a complex base of minerality, white flowers, citrus zest, vanillin oak and a lovely topnote of candied lemon. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, deep and pure, with great mineral undertow, snappy acids and laser-like focus on the long, complex and electric finish. Stunning juice. (Drink between 2027 - 2060)John Gilman | 94+ JGThe 2021 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes is another one of the high points chez Sauzet this year, offering up aromas of confit citrus, beeswax, crisp stone fruit, white flowers and hazelnuts. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it’s taut and structured, with good depth at the core and chalky dry extract.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPThe Sauzet team run the vineyards then purchase the grapes. Pretty and lively colour with a fine floral bouquet, a touch of spring flowers. Punchy in a good way, lemon and lime flavours but with adequate ripeness, leaves an attractive tingle on the tongue and medium plus length. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted: October 2022.Jasper Morris | 90-93 JM

There is just a single 350-liter barrel of the 2021 Puligny-Montrachet les Folatières En la Richards 1er Cru this year. Striking petrichor scents on the nose, this has a stately personality, beautifully focused. The palate is very well balanced with a silver bead of acidity, just the right amount of bitterness with quite a penetrating finish. Will need careful partnering but its oyster shell tinged finish suggests it will go perfectly with fruits de mers.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMAn elegant, pure and cool nose of white flower, mineral reduction and citrus is trimmed in just enough wood to notice. There is a lovely stoniness adding lift to the concentrated middleweight flavors that possess a racy, saline and well-balanced finish. This is also very pretty and most impressive and the only potential nit is that it needs to add depth, though that should occur as the Sauzet Folatières has an excellent track record. Burghound | 92-94 BHThere is virtually no En Richard this year, as the total production after the frost damage was a scant three hundred and fifty liters! That will be less than five hundred bottles. The wine itself is superb, delivering a complex nose of lemon, apple, fresh pineapple, chalky minerality, white lilies, orange zest and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, focused and shows off beautiful mid-palate depth, with fine mineral drive and grip, impeccable balance and a long, complex and classy finish. A beautiful wine in painfully tiny quantities. (Drink between 2026 - 2055)John Gilman | 94 JGA gorgeous clear pale yellow. The bouquet has class and tension as well. A little youthful bitterness, this is a structured Puligny with backbone and medium plus length. Not quite the charm of Champ Canet but very good nonetheless. Energy at the finish. Just a single cask of 350 litres made. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted: October 2022.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMAromas of orange oil, freshly baked bread, nutmeg and white flowers introduce the 2021 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières En la Richarde, a medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny wine with lively acids and a long, saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RP

Firm reduction renders the nose unreadable at present. More interesting are the intense and beautifully textured medium weight flavors that also brim with minerality and ample amount of dry extract that buffers the firm acid spine supporting the unusually powerful, serious, compact and stunningly long finish. This is also like rolling small rocks around the mouth and is a wine that should amply repay a decade or more of keeping.Burghound | 91-94 BH The blended premier cru bottling of Terroir de Blagny is really good in 2021, but this is a structured wine that will need time in the cellar to unfurl. The bouquet is deep and youthful, offering up scents of tart orange, fresh pineapple, chalky soil elements, vanillin oak and a striking topnote of lemon blossoms. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and racy, with a superb core of fruit, impressive cut and grip, fine focus and a long, nascently complex and well balanced finish. (Drink between 2026 - 2055)John Gilman | 93 JGThere was just enough wine to fill one 350 litre and one 228 litre barrel, even with the three vineyards of Truffière, Hameau de Blagny and Champ Gain blended together. A vibrant fresh primrose colour, with plenty of energy to the nose as well. Fresh plums with citrus notes, a good density of fruit, some length behind. Still shows the hillside character. Savoury notes at the finish. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted: October 2022.Jasper Morris | 90-93 JMThe 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Terroir de Blagny 1er Cru is a blend of Hameau de Blagny, Champs Gain and Truffières that together amounted to 600 liters. It has an attractive nose of apple blossom, dewy meadow, wet limestone and citrus peel that unfolds in the glass. The palate is very well balanced with quite a sharp, citric entry. Vibrant and lively, though maybe not as complex as some of Sauzet’s best cuvées this year. But what else can you do with such miniscule volumes?Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

The holding is right in the middle of Bâtard-Montrachet, with rows all the way up and down. Mid yellow. A weighty punchy bouquet, not quite so fine. Massive on the palate and the fruit takes on a whiter, not over ripe configuration, with excellent thread of acidity. Still an absolute baby but will certainly achieve its grand cru status. Drink from 2027-2035.Jasper Morris | 94-96 JMTOP QUALITY An exemplary Bâtard and among the best wines of the appellation. There is a deep lemon-yellow hue and pronounced ripe apple and pear fruit aromas with hints of spice, cream, butter and toasted hazelnut. The texture is lush and dense, just this side of opulence, but there is enough acidity to balance everything out and lead it to a harmonious, lingering finish. It is produced from a domaine-owned parcel of one third of a hectare on the border between Puligny and Chassagne, fermented and aged in new casks.Decanter | 95 DEC A restrained and distinctly citrus and floral-suffused nose displays hints of exotic tea, anise, oak and just sliced apple. There is both excellent volume and excellent delineation on the succulent but almost painfully punchy big-bodied flavors that terminate in a precise, balanced and bone-dry finale. This is presently very tightly coiled and a wine that will need extended keeping and should amply reward 12 to 15 years of it. Excellent. (Drink starting 2033)Burghound | 95 BHAromas of clear honey, sweet orchard fruit and white flowers preface Boillot’s 2021 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, a full-bodied, ample and satiny wine with racy acids and a broad, expansive profile, concluding with a long, saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPThe 2021 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is heady, rich and exotic, with good depth for the year and plenty of allure. Apricot, tangerine oil, butter, white pepper, hazelnut, chamomile and lightly honeyed notes fill out the layers. This is a decidedly small-scaled Bâtard, but then again, we are talking about 2021. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 91-93 VM

This is also aromatically cool and decidedly restrained with its array of green apple, mineral reduction, citrus zest and a vaguely Chablis-like hint of oyster shell and iodine. The beautifully textured broad-shouldered flavors flash both focused power and an abundance of minerality on the tension-filled, bone-dry and balanced finale. This is also a strikingly pretty wine that is very much built to reward extended keeping.Burghound | 95 BHIn 2021 the Boillot Corton-Charlemagne is all from Aloxe and not the three communes. Mid lemon yellow. The nose has some style, flesh and floral and potentially stony. More wood is showing at the back but there is so much wine still to come out. Lemon juice intensity at the back. Very long again Drink from 2027-2035.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMTaut and structured, the 2021 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru delivers aromas of citrus zest, freshly baked bread and white flowers, followed by a full-bodied, satiny palate that’s chalky and incisive, concluding with a penetrating finish. This cuvée is acquired in grapes and pressed by Boillot.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPThe 2021 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is another stellar white from Boillot. All citrus, white pepper and crushed rocks, the Charlemagne sizzles with energy. There’s terrific focus here and plenty of cut too. This vibrant, airy Charlemagne hits all the right notes. It is a fine effort in this challenging vintage. To deal with the tiny volume in 2021, Guillaume Boillot had a 228-liter barrel made with 50% new oak staves and 50% staves from a once-used barrel. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 92-94 VM