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One of the most positive surprises of my tastings this year wasn’t a 2005 or 2004 Riserva but rather Il Poggione’s 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli, which has developed spectacularly since I first reviewed it last year. This awesome, deep Brunello is endowed with gorgeous dark fruit that emerges from the glass with superb richness and power while retaining a traditional sense of structure. There is more than enough fruit to balance the firm tannins that are typical of this hot year. I was blown away by the combination of opulence and classicism present in the 2003 Riserva. If that sounds appealing, believe me it is. The 2003 Riserva is drinking beautifully today and should continue to offer great pleasure for several decades. The estate’s 1975, from a very hot vintage at the time, was in great shape when I last tasted it a few years ago. As an aside, readers interested in older vintages will find plenty of notes on our database. Given the soft market for fine wines and the general disdain for 2003s, I would be shocked if savvy readers aren’t able to pick up this wine at a favorable price at some point in the near future. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2032.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPOne of the great surprises of my tasting this year wasn’t a 2005 or 2004 Riserva but rather Il Poggione’s 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli, which has developed spectacularly since I first reviewed it last year. This awesome, deep Brunello is endowed with gorgeous dark fruit that emerges from the glass with superb richness and power while retaining a traditional sense of structure. There is more than enough fruit to balance the firm tannins that are typical of this hot year. I was blown away by the combination of opulence and classicism present in the 2003 Riserva. If that sounds appealing, believe me it is. The 2003 Riserva is drinking beautifully today and should continue to offer great pleasure for several decades. The estate’s 1975, from a very hot vintage at the time, was in great shape when I last tasted it a few years ago. Readers interested in older vintages will find plenty of notes on our database. Given the soft market for fine wines and the general disdain for 2003s, I would be shocked if savvy readers aren’t able to pick this wine at a favorable price at some point in the near future.Vinous Media | 95 VMRich, decadent aromas of blackberry and dried rose, with hints of prune. Full-bodied, with delicious fruit, round tannins and a long finish. Layered and beautiful. Best after 2010. 2,700 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Far more captivating, the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino appears to have barely budged since it was released a few years back. Stylistically, the 2004 remains one of the more mid-weight vintages at Salvioni, yet it is so finessed. Remarkably fresh and nuanced, the 2004 has all the qualities that made it so appealing when it was a young wine. Everything is simply in the right place. What a gorgeous wine this is.Vinous Media | 97 VMSalvioni’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is made in a style that brilliantly reconciles a modern approach in the vineyards (tiny yields, full phenolic ripeness) with a traditional approach to winemaking (long macerations, cask aging). An explosive, super-ripe wine, this Brunello flows from the glass with mesmerizing richness and stunning balance. The gorgeous red fruit carries through all the way to the finish, where flowers, tobacco and spices add further complexity. In many ways, Salvioni’s Brunello di Montalcino is the region’s equivalent to Giacomo Conterno’s Barolo Cascina Francia, a wine with which it shares many attributes. Simply put, this is a gem from Giulio Salvioni, and it is not to missed! Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPShows aromas of clove, vanilla, blueberry and cherry. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a fruity, chewy tannin finish. Needs some bottle age to mellow a little. Best after 2011. 725 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2007 d’Alceo shows none of the Sammarco’s early appeal. It is a dark, inward wine imbued with black fruit, roasted coffee beans, grilled herbs and licorice, all of which build effortlessly towards the huge, explosive finish. This exquisite d’Alceo will require significant patience. d’Alceo remains a model of the level French varieties can reach in Tuscany. In 2007 the blend is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Petit Verdot. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPDark raspberries, cloves, menthol and crushed rocks wrap around the palate in the 2007 d'Alceo. Rich, voluptuous and sexy, the 2007 is very much a product of a vintage that yielded a crop of resonant, generous wines. The ripe, silky tannins will make the 2007 accessible relatively early, but it also has more than enough depth to age well for years. Today, the flavors are naturally still quite primary and there is still quite a bit of baby fat that has to melt off before the 2007 enters its prime drinking window. Still, there is a lot to like, including the wine's huge, palate-staining finish. Grace meets power in the 2007. In a word: dazzling!Antonio Galloni | 97 AGThis has so much blackberry, porcini mushroom, and chestnut character. Full-bodied, with firm tannins and a long finish. Love the way this changes from mushrooms and earth to blackberries. So impressive now, but will be better in three or four years.James Suckling | 97 JSSuave and silky, with rich black currant, blackberry and spice flavors backed by lively acidity and dusty tannins. It all hangs together beautifully, with a Bordeaux-like cast to the flavors and profile. There's intensity, without this being showy or heavy. Terrific length. Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Best from 2013 through 2030. 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

How many dinners anywhere start with a wine on a level with the 2010 Ornellaia? I imagine not many. But that’s exactly the way we get going. Super-expressive aromatics soar out of the glass as the 2010 shows off its personality. Sweet herbs, tobacco, licorice, mocha and tar wrap around a core of intense dark fruit. Racy, powerful and majestic, the 2010 is a total stunner.Antonio Galloni | 98 AGPoured from the special anniversary bottle, the 2010 Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia is a truly outstanding wine that leaves a lasting memory for those who are lucky enough to enjoy it. What stands out is the absolutely seamless-seamless-seamless (yes, it’s worth repeating three times) integration of its many moving parts. The wine magically transitions from cherry, spice, chocolate and espresso in one melodic and continuous loop. It exudes balance and elegance over long, delicious minutes. It is profoundly impressive. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030. Of all the grapevines planted on the Ornellaia estate, the 2010 vintage showed best results with Merlot, says Leonardo Raspini. Because the harvest was later than usual, the early-ripening grape enjoyed a slow and steady evolution.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2010 Ornellaia celebrates the wine’s 25th anniversary, and it could not have been a more spectacular vintage. It opens with aromas of crushed blue flowers, black berries, pipe tobacco and thyme that give way to an elegant, structured and polished palate. It delivers intense blackberry flavors layered with white pepper, Mediterranean herbs, mineral and mocha brightened by fresh acidity alongside smooth, velvety tannins. This will age and develop for decades. Drink 2016–2040.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEA wine with a wonderful depth of berry, chocolate and hazelnut character. Full-bodied with velvety tannins and a round, delicious finish. Fruit-forward and exuberant: more in-your-face fruit to this wine than in many past vintages. Enticing all the same. This comes in a special bottle commemorating the 25th anniversary of the wine coming onto the market. Try in 2016.James Suckling | 95 JSA muscular, impenetrable red, with tightly wound tannins guiding the black cherry, plum, herb, soy and oak spice flavors. Monolithic today, this needs time to find equilibrium. Best from 2016 through 2032. 2,200 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

I really appreciate the dark-berry and burnt-orange aromas that follow through to a full body, very integrated tannins and a ripe, juicy fruit character. Savory, succulent and salty. Hints of chocolate and salted nuts. So juicy and gorgeous. A fabulous red. Drink now but also hold for years ahead.James Suckling | 98 JSThis opens with aromas of blue flower, red berry, menthol and baking spice. The delicious palate delivers juicy red cherry, crushed plum, cinnamon, white pepper and mineral. Impeccably balanced with polished tannins and freshness, it impresses for its combination of intensity and elegance. Drink 2018–2028.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEThe 2010 Brunello di Montalcino is all about balance. Remarkably seamless for a young Brunello, the 2010 is also quite expressive and open at this stage, which is one of the signatures of the vintage. Bright red stone fruits, wild flowers and cinnamon are all given an extra kick of intensity and focus from the high acidity of the year. This is a terrific showing from Fuligni.Antonio Galloni | 94 AGA bright, spice-laden version, with macerated cherry, strawberry, tobacco and earth flavors. The ample tannins add structure, yet the lasting impression is of sweet fruit and refinement. Best from 2018 through 2032. 2,500 cases made, 900 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Rose petal and ripe fruits on the nose. Full-bodied, with well-integrated tannins and a citrus undertone. Lemon rind texture. Juicy and delicious. Give it a year or two to soften. 50% Merlot and 50% Cabernet Franc, aged 15 months in French barrels.James Suckling | 90 JS

A bit closed at first, the 2011 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille sees fruit harvested from a five-hectare cru site with galestro limestone soils and all-southern exposures. Despite the initial shyness of the bouquet, this wine ultimately shows a more profound and elegant approach in this warm vintage. It just takes a little longer to get there. The nose offers a full spectrum of fruit, floral and earthy tones that speak so highly of this all-Sangiovese appellation. The wine is smooth and rich in terms of density with beautiful firmness at the back.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPSmoke, earthiness, black cherries, licorice, menthol and dark spices are some of the signatures in the 2011 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille. A dark, brooding wine, the Sugarille boasts tremendous depth and intensity, not to mention tons of character. Deeply spiced, mentholated notes wrap around the polished finish. This is another superb showing from one of the Gaja family’s under the radar gems, if that can be said. In a word: fabulous.Vinous Media | 95 VMA powerful red with chewy tannins and hints of cedar and wood. Full-bodied, tight and tannic. I like the tannin tension. Needs two or three years to soften: Try in 2017.James Suckling | 93 JSAromas of underbrush, scorched earth, French oak and a whiff of new leather lift out of the glass. The powerfully structured palate offers dried black cherry, toast, espresso and dark spice alongside firm fine-grained tannins. It’s still a bit austere so give it a few more years to fully develop. Drink 2020–2025Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

A luscious red with dried berry, cherry and hints of cedar and tea. Full body, fine and velvety tannins and a long and flavorful finish. This is compacted and tight with great depth. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2012 Colore is on the market now. Production of 2013 and 2014 was skipped, and the next vintage we shall see (very soon) is 2015, which is also reviewed in this report. This vintage produced large berry sizes for Sangiovese—something Bibi Graetz is always happy to see because it is an indicator of elegance and finesse within the context of the house style. If you consider this wine, his observation makes perfect sense. This warm vintage is powerful and rich in its natural state, so any additional berry density might easily lead to overextraction and heaviness. However, the mouthfeel is objectively thinner and more compact in this vintage. Colore represents a blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino in equal parts. The bouquet is redolent of wild berry, dried cherry and toasted spice. This vintage offers a very attractive mineral note as well. Fruit is selected from three of Bibi Graetz’s favorite vineyards with ancient vines: Lamole (in Chianti Classico), Vincigliata and Siena. Only 5,000 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPMuscular and concentrated, yet with a sense of elegance derived from vibrant acidity, this red displays black cherry, blackberry, leather, iron and tobacco flavors. Consistent from the start to the long finish. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino. Best from 2020 through 2028. 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA tricky year with a very hot dry summer that resulted in low yields, but also marked by a wet September. The sour-cherry nose is fresh and lively. It’s medium-bodied but still quite concentrated, and while no blockbuster, it has density. It lacks some flesh and weight of fruit, resulting in a somewhat hollow mid-palate, but it’s attractive and already drinking well. Drinking Window 2021 - 2026.Decanter | 90 DEC

Aromas of juniper, rosemary, thyme and Szechuan peppercorn segue to strawberry, cherry and rose hip flavors in this elegant red. Intense and balanced, with the structure to develop over the next two decades. Shows excellent depth and length. Best from 2022 through 2043. 833 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSCompared to 2014, the 2013 vintage was a breeze from a farming and winemaking point of view. A relatively stress free growing season tends to transmit more clarity and intensity to the finished product. That's the impression I get when I taste the savory, rich and sophisticated 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. Some 10,000 bottles were released. This wine delivers thick ripeness with bold cherry aromas that are folded into spice, leather and tangy black licorice. This wine achieves a higher level of aromatic intensity compared to the elegant Altesino 2014 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli (which I actually preferred at this tasting). However, my impression is that this riserva from 2013 will ultimately offer a more fruitful and interesting bottle evolution five to ten years from now.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThis offers an array of light and bright cassis and other blue-fruit notes with wild herbs and raspberry leaf. Then, a smooth, fresh and approachable palate carries a supple, smooth and velvety core on fine, even tannins. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSLinear and made in a focused style, this fragrant red has aromas of camphor, rose, thyme and new leather. The racy palate offers sour cherry, star anise, menthol and wild herb set against taut fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity. Drink 2023–2033.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

A blend of crushed plums and cherry sauce is complicated by sage and hints of camphor as the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino opens in the glass. Silky and refined, the 2013 is significantly more energetic and sleek than expected, with masses of tart wild berries and inner herbal tones that saturate. It finishes with medium length and is still lightly structured, leaving a saline tinge and hints of tangerine to slowly fade. This is entering a lovely place in its evolution.Vinous Media | 93 VMMastrojanni’s 2013 Brunello di Montalcino reveals a very precise and focused aromatic profile. This is a signature touch from this outstanding estate that, year in and year out, produces some of the best Brunello you can buy. Wild berries and cherries rise from the bouquet in an elegant flutter. Those tones are followed by spice, leather, rosemary and medicinal herb. The wine is streamlined, polished and smooth in terms of mouthfeel. Some 54,000 bottles were produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThis is plump, with cherry, plum, iron and tobacco flavors, nicely balanced by a dense matrix of tannins. Tips slightly toward the dry side on the finish, yet stays fresh and long. Best from 2022 through 2036. 1,170 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSAgronomist/oenologist Andrea Machetti has been managing this property since 1992, although it was purchased by the Illy coffee group in 2008. The vineyards are close to Castelnuovo dell’Abate, where the soil is predominantly clay with a complex mix of marine salt, tuff, river pebbles and sand. Besides flavours of tobacco, dried sage and forest berries, this has a saline edge and a tanginess that gives plenty of vibrancy and length. Nicely framed by well-managed tannins.Decanter | 92 DECPlenty of dried fruits on the nose with cedar and flowers that follow through to a full body, layered tannins and an intense finish. Hints of raisins. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 92 JSForest floor, tobacco leaf, new leather and balsamic aromas unfold in the glass. The structured palate delivers dried black cherry, prune marinated in spirits and star anise framed in firm fine-grained tannins. Drink 2021–2028.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WE

The highlight in this range, the exquisite 2014 Tignanello is all about persistence and understated class. The aromatics alone are captivating. Sculpted, finely delineated flavors add to the wine’s vivid personality. Because of the challenges posed by the growing season, the blend leans more heavily toward Cabernet Sauvignon than is typically the case. Above all else, though, the 2014 is all about harmony, and there is plenty of that here. Unfortunately, production is down 30%.Vinous Media | 96 VMExotic spice, cedar, purple flower, forest floor and wild berry are some of the aromas you’ll find in this fragrant, focused red. It’s loaded with finesse, delivering juicy Marasca cherry, cassis, star anise and white pepper with remarkable precision. It’s fresh and balanced by vibrant acidity and elegant, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2019–2029.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEReally pretty aromas of currants and roses follow through to a medium body, firm and silky tannins and a fresh finish. Very well done for 2014 and a wonderful Tignanello to drink now or later. Better in 2019.James Suckling | 94 JSTignanello has this amazing ability of always being, well, Tignanello. Its very DNA makes it among the most distinctive and recognizable wines in the world. I’m happy to report that this is also the case for the 2014 Tignanello that faced very different growing conditions compared to most. The wine is beautiful and balanced with sweet tannins and a supporting oak texture that is neatly folded at the back. The wine is all about measure and proportion, and it aspires to these goals with an impressive sense of natural harmony. This is not an overtly powerful or muscular expression. Instead, it shows a tasty, almost savory form of elegance. This vintage was made with 75% Sangiovese, which means that the Cabernet presence is a tad bigger than normal. Ultimately, this wine is more finessed and delicate, and I appreciate the careful tannic management on display here.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPA fresh, linear style, displaying cherry, iron, earth and spice flavors on a slim frame. Fine length.—Non-blind Tignanello vertical (October 2019). Best from 2021 through 2035. 5,000 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 91 WS

There’s wonderful polish and focus to the vibrant nose here, which frames sour cherries, raspberries, fruit tea and darker, earthier elements. Medium-to full-bodied and beautifully pure and inviting, this is a dialed-in Brunello with sweeping acidity and finely chiseled tannins. Drink from 2021.James Suckling | 94 JSThis beefy red is less forthcoming than many of its peers, featuring a core of pure, fresh cherry flavors. Earth and leafy tobacco elements emerge as this unfolds on the lingering finish. Shows fine balance and energy overall. Best from 2024 through 2042.Wine Spectator | 94 WSIntense and vibrant nose of wild berries and spicy notes. Juicy core with plenty of meaty notes, ripe tannins structure, juicy plump ripe red fruits. Still tight with lots of room for development. Drinking Window 2022 - 2030.Decanter | 93 DECWith vineyards on the Castelnuovo dell’Abate side of the appellation, this wine reflects the warm vintage and the slightly wild characteristics of fruit from the southern half of the appellation. The San Giorgio 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolforte is a robust and generous wine, with contemporary touches of smoke and spice that add to its aromatic intensity and complexity. There is plenty of ripe, dark and concentrated fruit here, and that’s ultimately what powers this hearty Brunello. The tannins show good integration too. The release counted an ample 50,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolforte is quite reticent at this stage, showing a dusty mix of woodland red berries, with hints of savory spice, leather and dried florals. On the palate, silky textures are offset by tart cherry fruit, with cool-toned acids and minerals adding lift in an expression that seems both savory and feminine. The finish is medium in length and quite pretty, resonating on red inner florals and fruits, with a lingering spry acidity and the slightest hint of fine tannin. This is already quite easy to enjoy, and it should do well over the medium-term in the cellar.Vinous Media | 91 VM

Love the balance and finesse to this young Brunello with very soft, creamy-textured tannins that frame the pretty palate, which shows chocolate, spice and cherry character. It’s full-bodied, yet polished and balanced. This needs another two or three years to come together. Try after 2023.James Suckling | 95 JSThe Tenuta la Fuga 2015 Brunello di Montalcino needs a little extra time to open, as the wine is initially shy. There are some flinty notes that lift quickly to reveal mild fruit aromas of blackberry and dried raspberry. The fruit feels a little closed, and the mouthfeel is silky and dry. I’d recommend capturing that fruit while it lasts and drinking this Brunello within the next 10 years or so. Some 20,000 bottles of it were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPLots of balsamic and ethereal notes, charming dry red fruits, and an abundance of spices. Soft juicy and elegant on the palate with depth of ripe red fruits. Mocha and chocolate finish. Drinking Window 2021 - 2025.Decanter | 91 DEC

This is a very well balanced Brunello with sharp and classic lines. The Val di Suga 2015 Brunello di Montalcino offers attractive energy and brightness that is transmitted through the cherry fruit and wild berry aromas at its core. That primary fruit is surrounded by light spice, grilled herb and potting soil. There is a nice purity and linearity to this wine that reminds you of the natural depth and complexity of Sangiovese when given a little time to age. (Brunello is always released five years after the harvest.) This is an ample 120,000-bottle release.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2015 Brunello is lifted with aromatics of candied cherry, raspberry fruit leather, vanilla, and sweet baking spices. As one would expect with the warmth of the 2015 vintage, the palate is rounder and more generous than the racier 2016. The palate is ripe with fresh cherry, tea leaf, and pleasant orange peel bitterness. It will provide welcome enjoyment over the next 15 years. Drink 2022-2036.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDAs of the 2015, all of Val di Suga’s wines spend less time in wood to curb Sangiovese’s tendency to oxidise. This wine brings together grapes from all three of Val di Suga’s distinct vineyard sites in equal proportions. Fragrant orange and raspberry notes progress into darker, earthier nuances. There is a saline edge and a gentle grip holding together lush fruit. It’s a touch short but still bright and tangy on the finish. Drinking Window 2021 - 2029.Decanter | 92 DECA dense and linear red with medium to full body, chewy tannins and a slightly extracted finish. Needs time to soften. Better after 2022.James Suckling | 92 JSThe 2015 Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino is spicy and intense, leading off with dried cherries, cedar spice box, savory herbs and dusty rose. Silky, almost creamy textures flood the palate with ripe red and black fruits, contrasting saline minerals with cooling acids, as fine tannins slowly settle upon the senses. The finish is long and structured, mixing youthful tension with pretty inner florals, yet the best is yet to come with medium-term cellaring.Vinous Media | 91 VMElegant, offering cherry, sanguine, iron, earth and tobacco flavors. Sleek and vibrant, with a lingering aftertaste of mineral and tobacco. Best from 2023 through 2038. 10,000 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

The 2015 Valadorna (65% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot) is a dark and thickly endowed red wine that boasts a rich and lasting grip on the palate. The bouquet offers depth and complexity with dark fruit, leather, cured tobacco and spice. There are also softer notes of chocolate and ground espresso beans. The wine’s seamless integration of flavors leads to increased momentum and intensity as the wine continues to open in the glass.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPThis rich, powerful red, packed with blackberry and blueberry fruit, is beginning to mellow, offering a woodsy panoply of mushroom, humus and autumn leaves in the background. There are still some tannins to resolve. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2032. 1,500 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSBig and rich wine with lots of fruit and tannins. Plenty of wood, too. Full body. Needs two or three years to soften. Try after 2021.James Suckling | 92 JS

A dusty Brunello with dried berries, walnuts, caramelized orange, felt-tip pen and dried tobacco. Full-bodied and warming on the palate, which reveals a sweet-and-sour character, created by the interplay of solid acidity and dried fruit. Drink from 2023.James Suckling | 95 JSHere’s a confident and genuine expression of Sangiovese that manages to be both accessible and complicated at the same time. Brunello is one of the few Italian wines to bridge the gap between those two extremes. The Voliero 2015 Brunello di Montalcino offers a steady stream of small berry fruit and cherry aromas. But there is width to this bouquet and deeper layers of spice, tar and licorice also play important roles. This Brunello ages in oak for 36 months in order to find harmony and balance. Some 7,866 bottles were made. Those bottles were filled in July 2019 and the wine hit the market in January 2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPVery charming and elegant enticing nose, earthy with leather and spiced notes. Rich and full bodied on the palate with plenty of jammy notes, dry flowers, and red forest fruits. Classic. Drinking Window 2021 - 2025.Decanter | 94 DECHere I’m finding a spicy display of Sangiovese fruit, as dusty dried florals give way to mineral-laced bright cherry, with hints of cedar, leather and white smoke. On the palate, soft textures wash across the senses, ushering in pure red berry fruits, as brisk acids firm up the experience, leaving saline-minerals and fine tannin in their wake. The finish is medium in length and a bit angular, resonating on savory spice with licorice, dried black cherries, inner florals, and a lingering twang of acid. The Voliero needs time to fully come together, yet it is likely to always remain a spicy, acid-driven effort.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The Le Potazzine 2015 Brunello di Montalcino is immediately bright and energized. The wine is sprightly and lively. This is an elegantly medium-weight wine, but everything is in exactly the right place. Fresh acidity and snappy fruit flavors are followed by lighter touches of rose petal, cardamon, camphor ash and powdered licorice. These aromas are stacked tall and proud. Of special interest is that point of zesty medicinal herb that reminds you of the relatively cool climate and high-altitude positioning of Le Potazzine’s vineyards. These special conditions are exactly why this wine performs so nicely in a warm vintage like 2015. The coolness of the growing site offsets the temperatures of the growing season. Some 18,000 bottles will be released in February 2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPLe Potazzine ’s 2015 Brunello di Montalcino is fabulous. The bouquet is showing an earthy display, with smoky minerals and dark soil tones up front, evolving with time in the glass, as crushed black cherry mixes with wild, savory herbs and dried dusty florals. On the palate, gorgeously ripe red fruits are balanced by a mix of saline-minerals, savory spice and zesty acidity, as fine tannin slowly mounts beneath its pretty inner floral tones. The finish is long with a salty-savory twang of minerals and spice, as hints of hard red candies and a bit of citrus lingers over a core of tannic heft. There is so much to like about the 2015, from its classic and earthy bouquet to its fleshy yet balanced palate and totally classic finish. Simply stunning and so pleasurable.Vinous Media | 97 VMFragrant and elegantly structured, this opens with aromas of woodland berry, iris, new leather and wild aromatic herb. The taut, linear palate delivers juicy Morello cherry, ripe pomegranate, crushed mint and star anise framed in firm, polished tannins. Boasting some of the highest vineyards in the denomination, it retains great freshness and balance. Drink 2022–2030.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEA refined and fruity red with plums, oyster shell and porcini mushrooms that follow through to a full body. Tight and powerful with gorgeous fruit and richness. Drink after 2022.James Suckling | 93 JSI always find Le Potazzine’s Brunello to be particularly elegant and graceful. The 2015 is no exception, allying the ripeness of the vintage with Sangiovese’s transparency. Pale garnet in colour but by no means tired, this offers a heady mix of rose, violet, orange and bay leaf atop red cherry and scented earth. Fine-grained tannins surreptitiously coat the palate and the finish has equally sneaky length. Of note, 2015 is one of only four vintages in 25 that Le Potazzine has made a Riserva (to be released in 2022). The importance here is that this is not to the detriment of the regular Brunello. Drinking Window 2020 - 2030Decanter | 92 DECBlackberry, black cherry, earth and tar flavors highlight this suave, big-boned red, backed by a rearguard of dense tannins. The finish lingers. Fresh, if a bit compact. Best from 2024 through 2040. 1,200 cases made, 400 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The full name of this estate is Baricci Colombaio Montosoli, and indeed it is one of the protagonists of the celebrated Montosoli vineyard. The Baricci 2015 Brunello di Montalcino is highly distinguished by its mineral side (with marl, marine fossil, schist quartz and Galestro soils), and that is truly the magic of this wine. There is a pungent note of raw grape at first, but it lifts to reveal forest berry, camphor ash and subtle touches of sweet spice. These elements come together like a tightly fitted mosaic. The wine is balanced and fresh, with just enough structure to add firmness and considerable length to its polished mid-weight frame. In fact, mouthfeel is this wine’s strongest suit. Acidity is never a problem in Montosoli, located on the north side of Montalcino where day and night temperature shifts play an important role in slow fruit ripening. This warm vintage shows higher extract, but the overall balance allowed Baricci to bottle using very little sulfur (which could account for that little tangy note you get on first nose). The wine went into bottle in July 2019, and 15,000 bottles were made. It was released in January 2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPGood full ruby-red. Captivating nose combines, ripe red cherry, black plum, minerals, herbs, mocha and sexy brown spices. Juicy and sweet, with refined, suave blackberry, raspberry, minerals and tobacco flavors dominating. Finishes extremely long, with a steely quality, fine-grained tannins and a multifaceted personality. Another great Brunello from Baricci.Vinous Media | 96 VMAll 5ha of Baracci’s vines are contained in one single vineyard on the hill of Montosoli. With a southeastern exposure, the vineyards are cooled by breezes from the north and east and the soils are a complex mix of marl, schist and quartz. The 2015 is effortlessly balanced, starting with suitably mellowed but still radiant aromas of fennel blossom, tobacco and crushed stone. It flows smoothly on the palate, demonstrating its cunning power with well-honed tannins. For now, underlying tasty red cherry is highly gratifying but this will express so much more in years to come. Drinking Window 2023 - 2037Decanter | 95 DECA textbook Sangiovese, in the ripe style, boasting cherry, leather, iron, earth and tobacco aromas and flavors. Firm and lively, with a lingering aftertaste of fruit, mineral and savory elements. Best from 2022 through 2040. 1,250 cases made, 125 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSSubdued aromas evoking underbrush, baked plum and scorched earth form the nose along with a balsamic whiff of camphor. Full bodied and chewy, the brawny, enveloping palate features dried cherry, licorice, coffee bean and the warmth of alcohol alongside firm, noble tannins. Drink 2022–2030.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

An opulent Brunello, suggesting glacé cherries, strawberry ice-cream, peppermint tea and dried cloves. Full-bodied and very structured, muscling sturdy layers of tannins and rolling sheets of dark fruit into ironclad balls of flavor and texture. Long and fruit-driven on the finish. Drink from 2024.James Suckling | 95 JSThis wine reveals a beautifully rich and saturated appearance as it pours from the bottle. The Cerbaia 2015 Brunello di Montalcino offers a pretty presentation of Sangiovese-driven aromas with small berries, underbrush, moist potting soil and blue flowers. All of these aromas are perfectly tied to the variety. In the mouth, Cerbaia’s interpretation is lean and crisp with medium weight and a long, silky mouthfeel. It does feel thin on the mid-palate and tapers out to a medium or short finish. Fruit comes from a 4.5-hectare vineyard with Galestro-rich soils. Some 18,000 bottles were released in January 2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPSomething ethereal about the strawberry, faint cherry aromas. Full bodied, spicy and peppery; ripe immaculate fruit on the palate with fine tannins creating a beautiful texture. Drinking Window 2022 - 2028.Decanter | 90 DEC Scorched earth, leather and camphor aromas mingle with a whiff of resin. On the austere tightly knit palate, grainy tannins accompany sour cherry, orange zest and tobacco. This will benefit with a few more years of cellar time. Drink after 2023.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

This special steak wine bears the signature of company founder Giovanni Folonari on the front label. The Folonari family is a historic presence in modern Tuscan wine. Their 2016 Tenuta di Nozzole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione comes from a classic vintage that is known for the balance and power displayed in its elegant wines. This bottle opens to dark cherry and blackberry with rich nuances of spice and dried flowers at the back. This is a terrific effort from a winery with a big presence across the region.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPWhat immediately strikes you about this wine is its richness and density, showing lots of cherry, chocolate and bark character. Full-bodied, layered and flavorful. Lots of fruit. One for the cellar, but delicious now.James Suckling | 93 JSDeveloped nose showing mushroomy notes, oak nuances, and crushed rocks. Smooth and full on the palate, savoury finish.Drinking Window 2022 - 2030Decanter | 91 DEC

Sweet berries and orange peel with flowers and cedar on the nose. Full-bodied with firm, velvety tannins and juicy texture. It’s long and focused. Walnut, mushroom and wet-leaf character to the dark fruit. Flavorful and tight. Give this at least three or four years to open. Try after 2024.James Suckling | 95 JSEnticing aromas of fragrant blue flower, ripe woodland berry, menthol and star anise are front and center on this full-bodied red. The firm palate features crushed raspberry, blood orange, underbrush and coffee bean while tightly wound, fine-grained tannins show up at the close and carry through the coffee-bean finish. Drink 2024–2031.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThe 2016 Brunello di Montalcino from Tenuta La Fuga is very pretty and sweetly spiced, showing wild strawberries with hints of mint and cedar. It soothes the palate with a mix of ripe cherry and blackberry, laced with orange citrus. Rounded tannins come through toward the close, yet the focus here remains on fruit and balanced sweetness. It’s a very pleasant and somewhat-immediate Brunello for the near term.Vinous Media | 91 VMFrom an estate situated in the south-west of the region in the village of Camigliano, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino is classic with lifted, herbal aromatics of fresh mint and rose petal, oregano, and tart red cherry. Medium-bodied and vinous, the palate is savory with tangy red cherry fruit and salinity. Its more tertiary characteristics make this ready to drink now, while its vibrant structure will also welcome time in cellar. Enjoy over the next 15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 91 JD

This has enticing notes of ripe black cherries, mushrooms and truffle oil. A beautiful, full red with lots of silky tannins, concentrated flavors and delicious layers of cherries and licorice. The fruit really covers the intense tannins nicely. Best ever from here. Drink after 2023.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2016 Brunello di Montalcino from Tenuta Buon Tempo mixes wild strawberries with hints of plum, sweet herbs and flowery undergrowth. It’s soft and soothing at first, ushering in ripe red/black fruits with cooling acids and minerals, which creates a lifted and refined expression. This turns very floral and classically dry through the finale, with hints of sweet spice and licorice resonating above a coating of fine-grained tannins. The 2016 Tenuta Buon Tempo gains volume and depth the longer it sits in the glass, leading me to believe that the best is yet to come.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2016 has a fairly deep concentration of color, with aromas of blackberry, plum, violets, and tobacco. The palate is approachable and full-bodied, with fine-grained tannin. The aromas follow through to the palate, but with more freshness and lift, and this wine will be welcome drinking over the next 15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JDAt the southeastern edge of the denomination, Buon Tempo was originally established in the early 1990s. The property has been owned by Swede Per Landin since 2012. Open-knit and friendly, this cheerful Brunello leads with cherry and blackberry. Charmingly accented by flint and pepper, the palate offers lots of crunchy, fresh acidity. Smooth overall, with just a touch of astringency showing up on the finish, it will make for delightful drinking over the next five to seven years. Drinking Window 2022 - 2028.Decanter | 90 DEC

Attractive aromas of cherry, dark mushroom, bark and walnut follow through to a full body with lots of ripe cherry and berry character in the center palate. Firm, chewy tannins draw you down the palate. Extremely long. From organically grown grapes. Better than the superb 2015? Drink after 2023 and onwards.James Suckling | 97 JSMade with organically grown Sangiovese and fermented with wild yeasts, this fragrant, earthy red has intense aromas of rose petal, forest floor, new leather, woodland berry and balsamic whiffs of camphor. Full bodied and savory, the palate doles out juicy Marasca cherry, blood orange, licorice and tobacco alongside bright acidity and a backbone of noble tannins. It’s still youthfully austere, with great aging potential. Drink 2026–2046.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEWith an eye towards the Apennines, San Polino’s northerly vineyards are fully exposed to cool winter winds coming from Siberia. The vines are cropped a little heavier here than in the estate’s southeastern site, giving grapes with lots of juice. Yet there is no lack of concentration - it’s a linear, elegant package. Dried flowers, peppery spice and cherry sit atop dark, wet soil. Sinewy, chalky and powdery tannins wrap around a core of crunchy fruit, almost ready to unfurl, with mineral touches, tangy acidity, and a graceful flow.Drinking Window 2023 - 2037Decanter | 95 DECThe 2016 Brunello di Montalcino (made with organic fruit) opens to dark fruit, cherry and dried plum. Those fruit tones are ripe with extra sweetness, but they are neatly framed by tar, smoke and exotic spice that recalls mesquite or cedar wood. The dark ripe intensity of the fruit it tightly interwoven within those oak-driven flavors and the wine’s full-bodied fiber. This 10,000-bottle release has come along nicely over the years, showing a steady upward climb in quality and distinction.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2016 Brunello di Montalcino shows a mix of woodland berries and herbs before adding further depths of flowery undergrowth and smoky nuance. It’s silky-smooth, complemented by polished red/black fruits, while savory spices and notes of sour citrus slowly penetrate. Hints of licorice and mint linger, along with a coating of fine tannins on the long and lightly structured finish. The 2016 San Polino should shine bright with only a few years of cellaring.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Fantastic intensity and tannin structure with loads of blackberry, cherry, dark mushroom, wet earth and bark. It’s full-bodied and very intense with a long, beautiful finish. Super structure for aging. Try after 2024.James Suckling | 96 JS