Volnay

wines

The 2005 Volnay Clos de la Bousse d’Or offers scents of plum, black raspberry, Asian spices, soy, noble fungus and wood smoke. In the mouth, it delivers tart (though ripe) black raspberry fruit with black truffle undertones and subtle spice and chalk, while managing to display a flattering creaminess. Fascinating fungal, fruit skin and mineral notes vie for attention in the finish. This strikes an ideal balance between flattering fat and underlying structure. Figure to cellar it for at least 12-15 years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPGood ruby-red. Superripe but reticent nose hints at blueberry and licorice, accented by orange rind and pepper. There’s a pronounced earthy underbrush component to the black plum fruit. Strong soil tones here. Finishes with serious, building tannins. This one needs patience.Burghound | 91-93 BHGood ruby-red. Superripe but reticent nose hints at blueberry and licorice, accented by orange rind and pepper. There’s a pronounced earthy underbrush component to the black plum fruit. Strong soil tones here. Finishes with serious, building tannins. This one needs patience.Vinous Media | 90+ VM

Laurent Lignier has farmed a quarter-hectare of village Volnay since the 2020 vintage, split evenly between the rocky Ez Blanches at the top of the slope above the Clos des Chênes and Ez Echarts with deeper clay soils below Roncerets. The combination is delightful, with violet-scented blackberry fruit, firm tannic grip and rewarding density. The grapes are partly destemmed and given a cold soak before fermentation with a combination of punching down and pumping over. They will be bottled in the spring without fining or filtration.Decanter | 93 DECThis is also presently quite firmly reduced and unreadable in this condition. The relatively finely textured middleweight flavors also possess a succulent mid-palate that contrasts somewhat with the moderately austere and lingering if noticeably warm finish that isn’t subtle.Burghound | 87-90 BH