Wine Ratings

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In the brilliant and very structured vintage of 2005, it is not surprising that Domaine Michel Gaunoux has produced several masterpieces. The 2005 Grands Épenots is a magical young bottle of Pommard that seems likely to easily live a hundred years. The bouquet is very, very deep and currently very closed, as it reluctantly offers up a stunning mélange of cherries, blood orange, smoke, gamebirds, a great base of complex soil tones, an exotic touch of mint, orange zest and mustard seed in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid right to the sappy core, with beautifully tangy acids, ripe, substantial tannins and absolutely brilliant length and grip on the still very primary finish. This will take many more years to fully blossom and reach its zenith, and should prove to be one on the longest-lived wines of this magical and very long-lived vintage. (Drink between 2025 - 2125)John Gilman | 96+ JGA ripe, serious and brooding nose is composed of impressively complex red currant, blue berry, plum, violet and warm earth aromas. Given how the ’05s are generally showing today, the tannins are actually quite fine and like the ’08 Rugiens, the mouth feel of the robust yet focused flavors is highly sophisticated. This should be capable of aging for decades and will need at least one more.Burghound | 94 BHA big, dense red, packed with sweet cherry, raspberry, spice and mineral flavors. It’s less forthcoming yet more concentrated than the Rugiens, yet shows freshness and length. Best from 2012 through 2030. 250 cases made, 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Here too there is plenty of petrol character to the cool and nicely layered nose of ripe yellow orchard fruit, resin and rosemary oil. The attractively textured, rich and solidly concentrated medium weight flavors exude a subtle minerality while offering outstanding complexity on the sappy, balanced and sneaky long finish. If you allow this to warm up a touch of warmth slowly emerges but it’s a non-issue if the proper serving temperature is maintained.Burghound | 93 BH

A distinctly cool and very restrained nose only grudgingly reveals its aromas of green apple, mineral reduction, lemon zest and elegant floral wisps. There is first-rate volume and almost painful intensity to the big-bodied and muscular yet refined flavors that exude plenty of minerality on the austere and cuts-like-a-knife finish. This massively long effort is beautifully balanced and a wine that should easily reward 10 to 15 years of keeping. If you can find it, buy it.Burghound | 93-96 BHPale colour, and I am not really picking the nose here. Fairly good mineral intensity on the palate, with white fruit around, a little citrus at the finish, medium nobility. Tasted: October 2021.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JM

The Champ Canet has not quite fallen clear yet. However, the bouquet is stunning! And keeps changing. The immediate fruit now adds a little toasty note, plus the additional depth and complexity of having been kept on more lees. The fruit ripened nicely, with a touch of honeysuckle but it is a minority component, with ripe citrus taking the lead. A fascinating, complex finish. Drink from 2028-2037. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 94-96 JMThe 2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Canet is excellent, mingling aromas of lemon oil, citrus confit, white flowers, freshly baked bread and mandarin, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and seamless palate that’s concentrated and structured, concluding with a long, nutmeg-inflected finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPThe 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Canet 1er Cru felt much more closed when I tasted it at the Domaine, introverted with dewy meadow scents. The palate is well-balanced, but it doesn’t quite convey the mineralité and tension of its fellow Premier Crus at the moment. Does it have more to give? I remain cautious for now.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

Lemon and lime in colour, a little softer than the Garenne in the bouquet. This is quite complete with a lifted energy to it, very long, not trying to be fuller bodied that it can be, the citrus note has both a light lime note as well as some lemon, while pure orchard fruit forms the back bone. Very old vines which yield little. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMThe 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Hameau de Blagny 1er Cru has a complex bouquet that takes time to open in the glass: touches of wet pavement, Granny Smith apples and hints of fennel in the background. The palate is well-balanced, tensile and linear with a taut bead of acidity; this delivers an almost minimalist finish that is very Blagny in style. Good salinity and length. Very fine.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMOffering up notes of flowers, pear, freshly baked bread and hazelnuts, Sauzet’s 2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny is medium-bodied, bright and lively, with tangy acids and chalky grip on the finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RP

The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru has a clean, precise bouquet with wet limestone, Granny Smith apples, menthol and light sea spray scents that could only originate from this appellation. The palate is very well-balanced, one of the most powerful of Sauzet’s Premier Crus. It possesses perhaps its spiciest and most texturally satisfying finishes that lingers long in the mouth. Excellent.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMAnother beautiful bouquet after an elegant colour. This keeps building, and seems to have rediscovered the magic of Combettes which I thought was lost in the hottest years. There is a fulsome weight of white fruit, while retaining energy. Just enough acidity, with ripe apples at the finish. Drink from 2027-2036. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JMThe 2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes is terrific, offering up aromas of pear, citrus zest, white flowers, toasted nuts and fresh mint, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered palate that’s dense and structured, with racy acids and chalky grip. I suspect it may surpass even the excellent 2020 version.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RP

Lucie Coutoux explained that although La Maltroie and Champgains (as they spell it) are roughly the same elevations on the band of premier crus, there is more limestone in Champgains that gives a bigger wine. In 2022, this shows ripe notes of passionfruit and lime peel with an accent of hazelnut and hay. The texture is supple and rich, almost fat, but pleasantly so. The grapes are from the domaine’s parcel of 0.44 hectares at the top of the slope.Decanter | 94 DECA glowing pale lemon yellow. There is a clear white fruit charm to this, a little more chiselled than the softly welcoming Chenevottes, with a limestone length and purity at the finish. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 92 JM

The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes 1er Cru shows the more unctuous side of the village. Apricot, butter, spice and tropical notes all race out of the glass. The Combettes will be enjoyed most by readers who appreciate the more extroverted side of white Burgundy. This fruit came in on August 25 and was the first parcel harvested that year. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 92-94 VMThe same mid yellow colour as most of the 2022s here. Not the most evocative bouquet, showing the sunshine a little. Ripe and generous yellow fruit on the palate, not as nuanced as Perrières. Fair length once again. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted: December 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM

Middling deep yellow. A little oak on the nose, but otherwise high class predominantly orchard fruit. This is more nuanced than the Folatières, entirely white fruit and a good balance between the clay and the minerals. An excellent and persistent finish. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted: December 2023.Jasper Morris | 94-96 JMThe 2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Perrières 1er Cru is a heady explosive wine endowed with tremendous depth and textural intensity. Crushed rocks, mint, graphite, tangerine oil and insistent saline notes all meld together as this potent, driving Puligny makes its presence felt. Readers will have to cellar this for at least a few years. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 92-94 VM

A pale lemon yellow. The bouquet is beautifully classy. Little white fruits and flowers, perfectly nuanced, very slightly richer at the back and extraordinarily long on the palate. Perfect fruit acid matching all the way through. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted: December 2023.Jasper Morris | 95-97 JMThe 2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles 1er Crus is an absolute delight. Bright and effusive, with tons of aromatic presence, the Pucelles is immediately charming. Lemon confit, crushed rocks, almond and a hint of reduction all soar out of the glass. Vibrant and wonderfully nuanced, the Pucelles is lights out. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 94-96 VM

The 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos de la Maltroie 1er Cru is actually more backward on the nose compared to the Village Cru, tightly coiled with mineral-driven, malic fruit. The palate is well balanced with neatly integrated oak on the entry. Fresh and saline, there’s ample grip toward the finish, with just a touch of grilled walnut and fine length. Excellent. Tasted at merchants’ 2022 Burgundy tastings in London.Vinous Media | 93 VMAn attractive mid lemon. Slightly yellower fruit. Good acidity with a leaner style of fruit. Maltroie rarely shines in its youth, and this is again in the more austere style. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 91 JM