Bordeaux has been on a hot streak recently with a bumper crop of excellent vintages including 2015, 2016, 2018, 2019 and 2020. Our Buying Team recently arrived back from Bordeaux after tasting the 2022 Bordeaux vintage from barrel, and it looks like the Bordelais have another winner on their hands. Is 2022 “The Vintage of the Century?” Probably not, but with the wine still evolving in barrels, it’s really too early to tell.
The growing season in 2022 was mostly dry and warm and while many critics were quick to compare it to 2003, there are far more differences than similarities between the two vintages. 2003 was an extremely warm and dry year marked by scorching hot days, very warm nights and little-to-no rain for nearly the entire growing season. In 2022, the growing season started off with some early rain which allowed the clay and limestone soils to absorb and hold water like a sponge. As the summer went on, very little rain followed, but those vines with deep roots were able to seek out the water stored in the aquifers several meters below the vineyards. These deep roots may seem like a lucky accident, but it’s all by design. Biodynamic farming techniques, not widely used in 2003, have allowed many vignerons to “train” their roots by plowing deep between the rows and forcing the roots to grow further down instead of out. While visiting Chateau Haut Bailly, they showed us some photos taken right before harvest that showed the tall trees in the background dry and brown, while the vineyards in the foreground were still dark green and healthy. The deep roots were aided by cool nights which prevented the vines, leaves and fruits from drying out as they did across the region in 2003.
The dry growing season forced the vines to become stressed in all the right ways. The lack of water prevented the grapes from plumping up with too much juice and the smaller berries that resulted allowed for concentrated, but not over-extracted flavors to emerge. Hundreds of wines were sampled during the En Primeur tastings, and the common theme among many of them was “freshness”. Nothing seemed overripe, and the majority of wines were fresh tasting. Usually when tasting Bordeaux barrel samples, the wines can be overbearing with the tannins, oak and alcohol dominating the flavor profiles of the young wines. So many of the 2022 wines were more approachable than we could have ever imagined, and it was surprising to experience so few “difficult” wines. The handful of “great” wines usually stand out while the bulk of the barrel samples are homogenous and austere. In 2022, the tasting experience was flipped on its head and the few mediocre or “bad” bottles stood out while the bulk of the samples were noted to be fresh and approachable now. Our team noted on multiple occasions that if we were handed a glass blind, we could easily enjoy the wine without guessing it was a barrel sample. The wines are just that good.
With all of the talk about the excellent reds in 2022, you likely won’t hear as much regarding the quality of the whites. While 2022 wasn’t an ideal growing season for the white varietals, many chateaux produced some positively delicious whites with bright, fresh fruit and racing acidity. Make sure you watch for the whites when they release as they will make great alternatives to your usual summer drinkers, especially those whites that are mostly Sauvignon Blanc. But don’t focus solely on the dry whites! The 2022 vintage for Sauternes is very good as well, especially those wines from Barsac. There wasn’t a single Sauternes sample that we found to be anything except delicious!
The main takeaway from 2022 is that while it may not be “The Vintage of the Century” it should go down as one of the best. Collectors should be able to find a plethora of incredible values across all of the Bordeaux appellations and at all price points. Many of the “second wines” that we tried were the best that we had ever tasted. 2022 will offer something for everyone at every price point and you don’t need to only chase the First Growths to experience the greatness of the vintage. With that in mind, here are a few of our picks for top wines of the 2022 vintage. In order to learn when 2022 Bordeaux futures are released from specific chateaux, please email your private wine consultant so they can notify you, or please email sales@sokolin.com and request to be added to our email list. You can also contact us at 800.946.3947.
Margaux
Chateau Brane-Cantenac
Chateau d’Issan
Chateau Margaux
Chateaux Palmer
Chateau Rauzan Segla
Pauillac
Chateau Duhart Milon
Chateau Lafite Rothschild
Chateau Mouton Rothschild
Chateau Pedesclaux
Chateau Pichon Baron
Chateau Pichon Lalande
St. Julien
Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou
Chateau Branaire Ducru
Chateau Leoville Las Cases
Chateau Leoville Poyferre
St. Estephe
Chateau Calon Segur
Chateau Cos d’Estournel
Chateau Montrose
Pessac/Graves
Chateau Haut Bailly
Chateau Haut Brion
Chateau La Mission Haut Brion
Chateau Les Carmes Haut Brion
Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte
St. Emilion
Chateau Angelus
Chateau Ausone
Chateau Beau-Sejour Becot
Chateau Canon
Chateau Cheval Blanc
Chateau Figeac
Chateau Troplong Mondot
Chateau Valandraud
Pomerol
Chateau Clinet
Chateau La Conseillante
Chateau Vieux Chateau Certan
Cheers!