1997 was the vintage that truly brought Tuscan wines to the forefront of global recognition. An optimum growing season, combined with years of improvements in the vineyards and wineries, helped winemakers fashion compelling wines.
I can remember reading various reviews of the '97s as they were released. One that caught my attention, probably also because of the photo of the label, was the 1997 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva Grandi Annate in Wine Spectator's October 31st Issue. It was designated 'Highly Recommended' and a few issues later appeared in the Top 100 Wines of the Year at the 4th Rank. James Suckling commented then (and again during a 1997 Italian blind retrospective) that it was "the greatest Vino Nobile ever made." I was never fortunate enough to score a bottle back then and had to add it on my wish list of wines to try.
About 5 years later my wife and I were lucky enough to stay at a friend's villa in Tuscany, in the charming town of San Quirico d'Orcia, located between Montalcino and Montepluciano. While there we visited the Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wine shop, various enotecas and trattorias, and of course Avignonesi's shop, but the '97 Grandi Annate still eluded us. That is why when our purchasing team informed me they came across a pristine collection of this treasure this past September I was ecstatic.
Avignonesi is arguably one of the three highest regarded houses from Montepulciano. Their portfolio consists of entry level whites and reds, a couple Super Tuscans, legendary Vin Santo dessert wines and in the best of vintages the Grandi Annate (there have been only three vintages released since the '97 and one on the way). Vino Nobile is the smallest and least known of Tuscany's "Big Three" DOCGs, usually considered a step below Brunello but historically a step above Chianti Classico. Much like Chianti, Vino Nobile is mostly Sangiovese, the clone in Montepulciano being called Prugnolo Gentile, with a dollop of other varietals allowed; Avignonesi uses Cabernet Sauvignon to complete it's Grandi Annate.
This past Valentine's Day, after a decade in the making, I finally got to taste the '97 Grandi Annate. Deep aromas of berries accompanied by a faint floral bouquet rose from the glass. The wine was still juicy and full of fruit, with baking spices that complemented the clove and rosemary from the stock of our braised pork shoulder. Definitely the best example of Vino Nobile I have ever tasted, it was a wonderful wine on it's own, but an even better one accompanying the meal.
Now in it's prime, I'd say the peak window of drinkability for the '97 Grandi Annate is another 5 years, followed by a slow and steady decline. Maybe it's a blessing I had to wait so long to try this wine and I hope to enjoy a few more bottles in the years to come. We have a handful of six-packs left in our warehouse, and I would love to hear your thoughts and experiences with those of you lucky enough to purchase them.