Syrah: the noble grape varietal with roots in the Northern Rhone, loved by Rhone Rangers of California, and fondly called Shiraz in Australia. Often we find him showcasing his power as a solo leading role, occasionally backed by a touch of the white varietal Viognier for exotic flair. Or quite often he can be found in a cast as a faithful sidekick to his fellow Grenache, with buddies like Mourvedre or Cinsault. Tonight, I had the pleasure of enjoying two wines with a slightly different casting call, with Syrah as the star, and the other red varietals loaning support.
First up was the 2010 Badenhorst Family Wines Secateurs Red Blend, composed of nearly 2/3rds Shiraz with the remainder Cinsault, Grenache, Carignan and Mourvedre. This South African wine is made on a farm in the Paardeberg area of the Swartland appellation, so its Wine of Origin is Coastal Region, part of the Western Cape. The name Secateur pays respect to the pruning shears used to shape the old bush vines during winter and help pick grapes during summer. Most of these bush vines are found on mountain slopes over various granite soils, and therefore are naturally low yielding and high in quality.
The Badenhorsts feel their low impact vinification allows for natural aromas and structures to show through, and I'd have to agree. A perfume of wild raspberry patch and garrigue floats first from the glass, soon to be followed by pepper, smoke and a hint of bacon fat. Then the juice of various red fruits glides over the tongue and slowly transforms into tapenade and dusty herbs. It's quite a feat to produce a wine with this finesse that can be sold for just $12.99.
Second on the agenda was the 2009 Bodegas Jimenez Landi Sotorrondero, from the DO of Mentrida in the province of Toledo near the center of Spain. The plots here are planted on sandy-clay soils of granite origin, and the climate is a Continental and Mediterranean blend. Sotorrondero consists of 85% Syrah from vines about 10 years in age, and the rest Garnacha (Grenache) from 40-70 years of age.
With ecological and biodynamic practices in the vineyards, as well as minimal intervention in the cellar, Bodegas Jimenez Landi strives for wines with balance, minerality, deepness and freshness (as in easy to drink). That being the case, they met their mark with the '09 Sotorrondero. Blackberry and blueberry patch emanate first from the wine, soon followed by duck fat and hoisin as well as clove, gravel and tar. The wine is plump and plummy, full of raspberries and cassis, with a smoky finish and a lingering hint of pepper. This wine delivers for $19.99, and if you're a hedonist, do not hesitate to grab some.
As entry level wines, both these wineries have demonstrated how feasible it is to produce quality wine from the bottom up. If you are a fan of Syrah, do not let these slip by and if you enjoy trying new regions or producers, please add these to your collection...they won't disappoint.
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