A couple years ago, I was introduced to some wines from the slopes of Mount Etna in Northeastern Sicily, and since then have always jumped at the opportunity to taste more. This week I had the pleasure to taste a set of wines from Calabretta and am continued to be impressed by the quality and value of this region.
Located on a south facing estate on the north slope of Etna, Calabretta's vines, like most in the area, are grown on volcanic soils. Composed mostly of ash and sprinkled with pumice, the soil is resistant to the phylloxera bug and most of Calabretta's vines, a good portion ungrafted, are 70-80 years old. Combine this with strong southern sunshine and cool nights at an altitude of about 750 meters above sea level, as well as an extended growing season that lasts until mid-October, and you get ripe grapes filled with amazing aromatics and elegance.
Calabretta produced a mere 175 cases of Bianco in 2008, predominantly from old vine Carricante with a bit of Minella Bianca added for acidity. The nose expresses freshness in a glass, full of resin, pine needles and white flowers, mixing with balsam, and hints of ash and sea air. On the palate, the wine evolves through a range of flavors including orange blossom and lemon zest with hints of nutmeg, then lanolin and almond, olive brine and tarragon, and finally chalk and mineral on the finish.
Etna Rosso is primarily composed of the indigenous Nerello Mascalese along with some Nerello Cappuccio. The wines are often compared to red Burgundy and mature Barolo, and with Calabretta's newest release in the market being from 2002, it's easy to understand why. One moment the wine smells of dried cherry, violets and baking spices, the next sage smudge sticks, balsam and roasted game. Tar makes an appearance as well, along with lingering notes reminiscent of the smoldering embers from a bonfire on the beach. On the palate, a juicy core of black cherry and wild blackberries persists, along with good acidity and finely integrated tannins that are a reminder of the ashen soil the vines are from.
Both wines respectfully express the terroir of the area and are crafted in a pure and elegant fashion. They pair wonderfully with food and offer amazing value at just under $17 and $24, respectively. We have already sold out of the 2002 Etna Rosso, but have just received bottles of the highly regarded 2000 to sell at the same price and magnums of the 2001 to offer at $51.99. With more and more examples of great wine coming from this region, there will be a new meaning to the phrase "Etna Is Erupting!"