“I make my wine at Lafite and Latour, but my heart is in Calon.”
This quote is attributed to the Marquis de Segur, who acquired Chateau Calon Segur through marriage in the first half of the 18th century, and is the reason for the heart being incorporated into the bottle’s label design.
Dating back to Roman times, the property is one of the oldest in the Medoc. In 1855, the chateau was awarded 3rd Growth Classification and many sources site it producing excellent wines throughout the first half of the 20th century. Then a general void of quality seemed to run its course there until the ’82 vintage, with a solid rejuvenation in the ‘90s.
One of the better vintages Calon produced that decade was the ’95. That summer was one of the driest and warmest Bordeaux had seen in a few decades. Being the northernmost classified estate of the Medoc in the northernmost of the four famous communes of the Medoc surely helped. Being further down the Gironde, the soil of Saint Estephe has less gravel and a higher percentage of clay than the other three communes, poor for drainage but desirable in vintages with summers like ’95.
Saint Estephe wines in general are considered to be full bodied, tannic and with good acidity. But according to Robert Parker’s 2003 book on Bordeaux “Madame Gasqueton (and before his death, her husband) would argue that of all the Saint Estephes, Calon Segur remains the most faithful to the traditional style of long-lived wines that are slow to evolve and blossom.” This opinion could not be better exemplified by following the reviews and comments of the 1995 Calon Segur over the years:
“As I have said many times since I first tasted this wine, the 1995 Calon-Segur is one of the great sleepers of the vintage. The wine has closed down completely since bottling, but it is a sensational effort that may ultimately merit an even higher score. The wine is opaque purple-colored. With coaxing, the tight aromatics reveal some weedy cassis intertwined with truffles, chocolate, and beef blood-like aromas. On the palate, there is an element of sur-maturite (1995 was an extremely late harvest at Calon-Segur), fabulous density and purity, and a boatload of tannin. This deep, broodingly backward, classic Bordeaux will require a decade of cellaring.” 92pts Robert Parker 1998
“This has a very backward nose with an almost animal-like intensity. The Cabernet Sauvignon is dominant with cedar, smoke and sous-bois characteristics coming through. Superb definition with a little more “attack” than the 1996. The palate is extremely backward, almost chunky and tannic, much more primal than the ’96 with blackberry, briary, bilberry complemented by hawthorn and leather. Very well balanced towards the charming finish which is developing an enthralling sense of harmony and effortless. A wine that put Mdm. Gasqueton on the map and still with so much to give in future years. Drink 2015-2040.” 95pts Neal Martin 2008
“I always loved this wine from the first time I tasted it in 1998. It has such purity and power yet it's reserved and beautiful. It's one of the best Calons ever. I drank a bottle with some friends in Manhattan last week and it was the wine of the evening. It was full-bodied with silky tannins and a focused and intense finish. Lots of currant and berry character and hints of dried spices. It's finally opening up and giving real pleasure now like so many 1995 Bordeaux at the moment.” 97 points James Suckling 2013
We recently checked in a pallet of pristine cases, and I had the wonderful opportunity to enjoy this wine over 9 hours. All the descriptors above are there, but what is missing is the knowledge of exactly when to currently “enjoy” the wine. I can tell you the first few hours the tannins were strong and a beam of bright fruit and acidity shined through. The next handful of hours after that, the two sensations began to meld, and a harmonious union of flavors and textures occurred.
For $145 per bottle, it doesn’t make sense to not buy some of this for your collection. I would imagine properly stored examples like ours should last another couple decades…if you can prevent yourself from finishing them off before then.