Summer is here and that means refreshing and delicious whites. One of the newer finds we've enjoyed recently is Domaine Sigalas' 2011 Santorini which is produced from one of the island's indigenous varietals, Assyrtiko.
Domaine Sigalas was founded in 1991 on Santorini, part of the island complex of Cyclades located in the South Aegean Sea about 120 miles southeast of Greece's mainland. The island is essentially the remnant of a volcanic caldera, and the soil a mixture of ash, pumice and sand. It is the lack of clay and extremely high sand content of this soil that allows Santorini to remain one of the rare viticultural regions in the world not affected by the phylloxera pest. Therefore, the vines retain their original rootstock and are classified as old vines being over 50 years of age.
As there usually isn't any rain during their summer, the principal source of moisture is dew from nocturnal fog. As the sun sets, the high daytime temperatures fall and the humidity created by the sea creates this evening fog which descends on Santorini. Not only does this fog supply the vines with water for the next warm day, but this daily temperature change helps to add complexity and balance to the wine.
The sea breeze can help prevent the vines from developing various fungi due to the summer heat and humidity, but this wind can also be harsh. So to lessen this and the direct exposure of the scorching sun, yet to also take optimum advantage of the dew, the vines are planted far apart in a low-spiraling basket-like formation. It is this unique pruning technique combined with Assyrtiko's ancient and harmonious link to the island's harsh conditions that provide the wine its minerality, acidity and structure.
Being fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks allows this wine to express the truest or most naked sense of what this varietal and terroir are all about. Orchard fruit like apple, pear and white peach dominate the front of the palate. Notes of resinous herbs, white pepper, and salinity then take over. I've tasted a bottle of this wine over a 24 hour period, and the wine seems to get lusher and juicier up front as well as finishing crisper with citric acid. This wine can be enjoyed now and for some years to come, and I can understand why Robert Parker's Wine Advocate awarded it 93 points. All quite a feat for a white wine priced at $19.99.
Whether you drink some at the beach, poolside or at a family barbecue, we hope you enjoy it as well as your summer.