When most people refer to cellar treasures they naturally think of back-vintage Bordeaux or Burgundy, of course, as they improve with age and can even increase in value. But it’s the savvy collector who knows that Spain has long been a great source for cellar-worthy wines. Bodegas Muga is one that comes to my mind. Muga Prado Enea is one of the great Gran Reservas that is still produced. Gran Reservas are made only in vintages considered worthy. Other producers that make great Gran Reservas include López de Heredia and La Rioja Alta, and of course CVNE’s Imperial and Viña Real and Marques de Murrieta are a few others to explore.
Bodegas Muga was founded in Haro in 1932 and is still in family ownership, farming an impressive 250 hectares in La Rioja Alta. The winery is located in the “golden triangle” of bodegas, its neighbors being La Rioja Alta and Lopez de Heredia. The Muga family controls all aspects of production within the vineyards. The key to everything is wood, from the magnificent 18th century wooden bodega to the impressive collection of 14,000 barrels used for the maturation. Organic viticulture is also fundamental here, and the resulting wines are pure, structured and always memorable.
Last night I enjoyed the prodigious 2005 Muga Prado Enea Gran Riserva. If you are getting into cellaring Riojas, these wines age beautifully and it’s a terrific cellar candidate. "Prado Enea" is the flagship, the most steadfastly traditional wine from Muga, and at $44.95 it’s a steal! Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate gave this wine an impressive 95-point score and had this to say: “This is an outstanding Gran Reserva whose silky texture will instantly win you over.” I completely agree.