About two weeks ago I was listening to Ask Burghound #2. One of the questions Allen Meadow’s addressed was about climate change and its effect on Burgundy. He mentioned how Chablis has been one of the biggest benefactors as frost is now much less prevalent than it used to be. How the Grand Cru that was most admired from the 2nd half of the 19th century through the 1st half of the 20th was Vaudésir, being a big amphitheater that shields the vines from wind and collects heat. And how these days much of the praise you hear is for wines from Les Clos, Preuses or Valmur.
This made me think about Vaudésir and look at what we had in our inventory. Turns out we have Burghound’s Highest Scoring Vaudésir to date, the only one to receive 95pts, Billaud-Simon’s 2010. Founded in 1815 with family holdings expanding in the 1930s, the Domaine owns 20 hectares with vineyards in 4 of the top Premier Crus and 4 top Grand Crus. Incorporating traditional practices with modern technology they strive to create wines of elegance, purity, balance and freshness.
Bernard Billaud, like many other vignerons, winemakers and critics, felt that 2010 was a “classic” vintage. What separated it from other recent vintages were the cool temperatures throughout the spring with frequent light rain. Assuming the overall benefits from the rest of the vintage, when keeping this spring weather in mind it stands to reason that Vaudésir could excel in 2010. Based upon what I recently tasted Billaud-Simon’s did just that.
The nose presented striking minerality leaning towards crushed shells, as well as notes of orchard fruit and fresh herbs. The palate opened with Granny Smith, loads of white peaches and hints of plum and apricot. Veins of citrus wove throughout, predominately lime, blood orange and pink grapefruit. Texturally it was like sucking on a couple Jolly Ranchers with a smaller butterscotch mixed in, yet the shell-like minerality and herbal notes remerged from the nose to keep it all in check with a dry finish.
With such wonderful overall mouthfeel, as well as persistent length, this Grand Cru gem will provide enjoyment for years to come. Or as you can see from my photo on the beach this summer! Just don’t wait long to buy some as there isn’t much in the market and our price is solid.