“Vilmart & Cie. is not only one of the greatest grower-estates in Champagne, but one of the finest champagne producers of any type in the region.” - Peter Liem, Champagneguide.net
“Organic viticulture, (truly!) low yields, remarkable polish of fruit, and the deliberate patient pursuit of a vision of perfection make Laurent Champs’ estate a gemstone gleaming among the chalk.” - Terry Theise, Importer
Laurent Champs was the fifth family member to take the reins at Vilmart et Cie in 1990, 100 years after Desire Vilmart founded this Champagne House. Located in the heart of the district of Montagne de Reims, they own 11 hectares of 1er Cru vineyards in Rilly-la-Montagne, 60% planted to Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir. As a member of Ampelos, they employ organic and sustainable practices in hopes that maintaining a harmonious balance between soil and vine that will transfer to the wine. From personal experience, I can say whatever they are doing works for me!
There are three vintage and three non-vintage wines produced at Vilmart, and recently I had the pleasure of enjoying their non-vintage Grand Cellier. To be clear, Vilmart always blends three vintages to create this wine, and the current inventory we have is from Disgorgement Date 11/12. So the base is from 2010 with 2009 and 2008 added. The wine is composed of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir from vineyard parcels averaging 35 years. The wine spent about 18 months in large oak casks and barrels, but did not undergo malolactic fermentation. This probably accounts for the wine having decent breadth and mousse yet not being overtly toasty, as well as the wine having wonderful verve, freshness and effervescence. In November of 2013, Wine Spectator gave the following 95-point review to this Disgorgement:
“Vibrant, finely cut acidity structures this seamlessly integrated version, backing layered flavors of poached apple, quince, honey, candied ginger, lemon zest and crème de cassis with hints of coconut and orchard blossom. Shows lovely texture and length. Drink now through 2023.”
I found it was the “quince, honey, candied ginger” along with clementine that kept everyone refilling their glasses. And at just $64.95, it was a Champagne that everyone asked to purchase more of as well. So with the holiday season approaching, I suggest stocking some around the house!