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It is pretty amazing, when drinking this stunning wine, to realize that this was only the second vintage made by the Mugneret sisters on their own after the tragic passing of their father Georges in 1988. Their 1990 Ruchottes is one of the finest examples of this vintage that I have tasted in several years, offering a purity that is hard to find these days in this slightly roasted vintage. The nose wafts from the glass in a very complex blend of red and black cherries, sweet dark berries, grilled meats, dark soil tones, a touch of cigar ash, espresso, mustard seed and plenty of cedary new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and tangy, with a great core of black fruit, superb soil signature and grip, still a wisp of backend tannin and lovely balance on the long, focused and very complex finish. Great juice with many, many decades of life still ahead. (Drink between 2023 - 2070)John Gilman | 96 JGThe 1990 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru is consistent with the bottle poured at the vertical in London. It offers mainly black fruit on the nose laced with mulberry, liquorice and Clementines, though I would have liked more delineation. The palate is rounded and generous in terms of fruit, grippy in the mouth with a dense finish that just lacks the grace of more recent vintages. Tasted at the La Paulée in Beaune.Vinous Media | 91 VM

The 1990 Château Margaux is really beginning to hit its stride at age 31, soaring from the glass with aromas of blackberries and cassis mingled with notions of licorice, cedar and violets, framed by subtle hints of vanilla and spice. Full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, it’s seamless and complete, its velvety tannins and ripe acids entirely cloaked in a lavish but vibrant core of fruit. This is an especially dramatic, fleshy rendition of Margaux, yet it remains impeccably balanced and has decades of longevity ahead of it.Robert Parker | 100 RPFull ruby-red. Wonderfully perfumed nose combines redcurrant, plum, mocha, minerals and rose petal. Plush, fat and rich, with great sweetness and class. This has utterly compelling mouthfilling richness. Finishes smooth and endless, with great breadth. This wine showed fabulous potential from barrel, but this is the first truly outstanding bottle I’ve had. Drink 2005 through 2035.Vinous Media | 98 VMA brilliant wine, still star bright in colour, and full of flesh and fruit. Opens with smoky cigar notes, touches of figs, blackberries, cedar, fine tannins, violet and peony aromatics even at 30-plus years old, and it certainly stays with you long after the glass is finished. Owner Corinne Mentzelopoulos was celebrating 10 years at the helm at this point, with (the late) Paul Pontallier just promoted to MD after arriving at the property in 1983. Drinking Window 2021 - 2040.Decanter | 98 DECA stunner, with a glorious aromatic display of mulled plum, blackberry and cherry notes seamlessly melded with rooibos tea, singed balsa wood and ground vanilla bean accents. The structure is so fine-grained that it’s almost hard to find, but the marathonesque length shows it’s there. As gorgeous as it is, this remains a hair behind the modern greats in terms of concentration. Still, it should hold at this peak for some time. Awfully close to the ’89, but sometimes we have to split hairs.--Non-blind Château Margaux vertical (December 2013). Drink now through 2025. 25,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

The brioche and cooked-apple and cream character really comes through here. Full-bodied and round with fine bubbles. Flavorful and intense. Vivid, bread-dough finish. This is four years on lees. 55% chardonnay and the rest pinot.James Suckling | 93 JSThe latest rendition of Laurent-Perrier’s NV Brut is showing nicely, wafting from the glass with scents of almond paste, iodine, white peach, warm biscuits and mandarin. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, with an elegant, lively profile, displaying a youthfully frothy mousse, good tension at the core and an attractively chalky finish. This is an excellent non-vintage wine that seems to reflect the maison’s efforts to improve their grape sourcing over the last few years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPThe nonvintage cuvée from this producer is definitely on the dry side. Like many Champagnes in the range, it has benefited from long aging before release, giving a wine that has richness as well as great fruits, hints of maturity coming through. Drink now.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WE