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(Château Haut-Brion (Graves)) The 1970 vintage of Haut-Brion is an interesting wine, as in the 1980s and early 1990s, this wine was quite red fruity and seemingly a bit high-toned to be ranked amongst the top vintages of this fine First Growth. But time has worked its magic, and in the new century it became more classically black fruity in profile and seemingly put on a bit more weight in the mid-palate, to eventually offer up a quite classic bouquet of cassis, black cherries, brick dust, cigar smoke and a fine base of gravelly soil tones. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and quite elegant in profile (channeling both the style of the vintage and the property), with a good core, melted tannins and a long, silky and complex finish. Fine juice. (Drink between 2017-2030).John Gilman | 93 JGThe 1970 Château Haut-Brion is a First Growth that has probably been over-shadowed by the Latour 1970 during its lifetime. However, this bottle proves that it is not to be underestimated; it highlights the glaring gap that exists between itself and another First Growth, the 1970 Château Margaux that I tasted alongside. There is plenty of vigor on the nose with dashing red berry fruit, cedar and black olive - just very Haut-Brion.The palate is medium-bodied, well balanced and fresh, nothing over-ambitious, just a Claret in the traditional sense of the word that gently builds towards a sous-bois dominated finish. This is an excellent showing, stout and a little austere, and you could argue an Haut-Brion with its peak in its wing-mirrors. Yet good bottles such as this will continue to offer pleasure for another decade. Tasted June 2015.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 92 RP-NMVery firm, with ripe plum and currant notes coming through its chewy texture, finishing with woodsy, bitter chocolate overtones. A sturdy wine that keeps threatening to become supple.--Haut-Brion vertical.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

(Château La Lagune (Haut Médoc)) Though La Lagune is listed as a wine from the Haut Médoc, I have always thought of it as really a wine from Margaux, as it lies just outside of the communal boundary there and stylistically, shares much with the wines of Margaux. The 1982 vintage of La Lagune remains the very finest year I have ever tasted from this consistently outstanding property. Today the wine is drinking at its apogee, but still has decades and decades of life ahead of it, with the superb bouquet offering up scents of black cherries, cassis, French roast, cigar ash, some gently roasted fruit elements, dark soil and a touch of toasty new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and absolutely velvety on the attack, with a sappy core, lovely focus and grip and a long, meltingly tannic and opulent finish. (Drink between 2016-2040).John Gilman | 94 JGUnquestionably the greatest La Lagune until the 2005 was conceived, the 1982 exhibits a dense ruby/purple-tinged color along with a big, sweet bouquet of black cherries, licorice, smoky toast, and forest floor, a plush, medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, and sweet tannin. It is close to full maturity, and should keep for another decade. Robert Parker | 92 RPVery dark garnet-red, with an inky center. Ripe berry and tobacco aromas. Medium- to full-bodied, with tobacco, raspberry and light toasted oak flavors. Silky finish. Outstanding, if not quite as impressive as I anticipated.--1982 Bordeaux horizontal. Drink now.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

No written review provided. | 92 WS

You probably remember I am a great fan of 1998 Bordeaux, but only Right Bank and Pessac-Leognan. Well, here is another beauty and it shouldn’t cost an arm and a leg! It’s drinking beautifully now with very fine aromas of chocolate and beer. It’s full body, with ultra-fine tannins and a juicy, succulent finish. Drink now. Decanting an hour would help.James Suckling | 92 JSAn opaque blue/purple color is accompanied by a sensational bouquet of melted fudge, plums, Asian spices, blackberries, and prunes. Smoky, barbeque-like spices also emerge with airing. Full-bodied, super-extracted, rich, pure, and mouth-saturating, this large-scaled effort can be consumed with pleasure, but it will age for two decades. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2020.Robert Parker | 92 RPIntense aromas of black olive and blackberry, with a hint of grilled meat. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a long, rich finish. Very powerful and rich. Just starting to come around.--’88/’98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Drink now.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Not a great vintage (very hot August, rain in the last half of September), but the Merlot was luscious and wines made from the best plots of Cabernet were very rich. Perfectly evolved, the wine is now silky textured, showing smoky notes of coffee, tobacco and cocoa. Drinking Window 2019 - 2035.Decanter | 92 DECNo written review provided | 92 W&SA classic effort, the 1998 Montrose exhibits a dense purple color in addition to a sweet nose of jammy cassis, licorice, earth, and smoke. It is a powerful and full-bodied wine with well-integrated tannin. Given Montrose’s tendency to shut down, it is performing better out of bottle than I expected. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2030.Robert Parker | 90 RPThe 1998 Montrose was the only recent vintage that was omitted from the series of verticals that I conducted in 2016. It is a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc and 8% Petit Verdot picked between 22 September and 6 October. Funnily enough, I had not tasted it since en primeur! It has a high-toned and expressive bouquet with blackberry, leather, a touch of menthol and dried herbs, a little earthiness coming through with time. There is still plenty of freshness here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin. This offers fine balance and a smooth texture, slightly lactic in texture with tobacco and even a touch of latte towards the black fruit-driven finish. There is almost a case for this Montrose being too melted in character. Fine, but I think it could have been better. Tasted at the château.Vinous Media | 90 VM

The renaissance of Kirwan, with the consultancy of Michel Rolland, continues with this ripe, forward, concentrated wine. The tannins are sweet and soft, with a solid, chunky structure that promises a long life. The finish displays balanced new wood flavors and a smooth polish.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEGreat nose of dark fruit, fresh tobacco and hints of licorice and cedar. Leather. Full body, extremely fine and polished. Lasts for minutes. Drink now or hold. A wine to enjoy for years ahead.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2000 Château Kirwan is fully mature and drinking nicely, yet certainly has plenty of life ahead of it. Lots of classic darker currant fruits as well as cedar pencil, green tobacco, spice, and chocolate all emerge from the glass, and it's a rich, powerful, mouth-filling Margaux that has ripe tannins, good overall balance, and outstanding length. It has another decade of prime drinking and, I suspect, a gradual decline after that.Jeb Dunnuck | 91 JDStill somewhat tannic but very much in the style that Kirwan has favored over recent vintages, this is a full-bodied, muscular, powerhouse effort. The wine still has a dense ruby/purple color, with loads of blackberries, cassis, and some noticeable new oak still lingering in the background. Powerful, rich, and full, this wine needs another 2-3 years of cellaring and should age nicely for another 20 years.Robert Parker | 90 RP

This is a marvelously complete wine, with its impressive ripe fruit, shining through the open structure. It is firm, but not too much. Stone black fruits are just perfectly ripe. There is just a core of dryness to compliment the rest of the wine.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEOffers a pretty sweetness of fruit, with raspberry and currant coulis notes gliding along a polished structure. Alluring mesquite, incense and rooibos tea elements flow through, revealing a light iron echo on the finish. Modestly sized but well-constructed.—Blind '01/'03/'05 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2017). Drink now through 2025.Wine Spectator | 93 WSModerately saturated ruby-red. Aromas of redcurrant, cedar and tobacco. At once juicy and soft, with currant and tobacco flavors. Offers a silky texture and lovely volume but not quite the structure or grip of the 2002. But this is lush, captivating claret.Vinous Media | 91 VM

The saturated ruby/plum-tinged 2002 reveals a tight but promising nose of underbrush, new saddle leather, damp earth, black currants and cherries. It is a strongly structured, potent effort with medium to full body, and impressive purity, but loads of tannin presented in a frightfully backward style. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. I seem to consistently underrate this wine when it is young.Robert Parker | 90 RPBeautiful aromas of licorice, currants and berries follow through to a medium- to full-bodied palate, with silky tannins and a seductive finish. Well-crafted. Not overdone. I like this slightly better than the Léoville Barton. Best after 2007. 5,665 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Opulent yet restrained aromas which give the impression of ripeness. A sense of hedonism pervades here – and it’s very welcome too. Long and elegant with good depth of fruit, well woven tannins and a long, sensuous finish. Drinking Window 2015 - 2020Decanter | 95 DECGood saturated ruby-red. Tight nose hints at currant and smoky oak. Highly concentrated, densely packed and built to age. As young as it is, it also shows a lovely velvety texture rare for this vintage. Finishes with terrific breadth, subtle minerality and noble tannins. I’ve been a fan of this wine since the outset.Vinous Media | 94 VMDense purple to the rim, this wine exhibits the classic cassis aroma that is so characteristic of Mouton. Medium to full-bodied, tannic, powerful, and cut somewhat from the 1988 mold, this is a backward, chewy, well-endowed Mouton-Rothschild that will require considerable patience from those who purchase it. A blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, the wine needs a good decade of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030+.Robert Parker | 93 RPI tasted this a few days after Bordeaux en primeur 2014. I was at my house in Italy and I forgot I had the bottle in my cellar. I really liked it. It was ready to drink, though some of my guests were less enthusiastic. My wife even thought it was tired already, yet the bottle was finished in 10 minutes! The wine showed fresh herb and berry character with tobacco undertones, a medium body and fine tannins. Just opening now. Fine and sillky textured.James Suckling | 93 JSComplex aromas of tobacco, cedar, berry and currants. Full-bodied, with a solid core of fruit and ripe tannins. Not as good as a barrel sample tasted earlier, but still outstanding for the vintage. Best after 2009.Wine Spectator | 91 WS