Red Wines

wines

The 2019 Côte de Nuits-Villages was showing a bit of reduction on the nose. Meanwhile, the medium-bodied palate offers supple tannins, quite fresh and well balanced. Lightly spiced with white pepper and clove toward the finish, showing very good persistence in the mouth. This is an excellent Côte de Nuits-Villages.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

The 2019 Marsannay Champs Saint-Etienne is much more backward on the nose compared to the Marsannay Village, slightly earthy black fruit and sous-bois emerging with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh, citrus-driven opening, tangy marmalade infusing the black fruit, and graphite toward the tensile finish. I appreciate the focus and harmony of this cuvée, which should age well in bottle.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM(Marsannay “Champs Saint Etienne”- Domaine Joseph Roty) The Champs Saint Etienne bottling from the Roty family is made from a parcel of vines that are over fifty years of age. The 2019 version is another excellent Marsannay in the making, delivering a fine bouquet of black cherries, red plums, smoked meats, a fine base of soil, a touch of cocoa powder, gentle new oak tones and an exotic (at least from Marsannay) floral topnote that recalls both lavender and eucalyptus. On the palate the wine is complex, pure and full, with excellent mid-palate depth, lovely soil signature and balance, refined tannins and a long, complex and quite classy finish. (Drink between 2024-2050)John Gilman | 91 JGThe 2019 Marsannay Champs Saint Etienne is showing well, revealing aromas of sweet red berries, rose petals and licorice, framed by a discreet touch of oak. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with lively acids and fine, chalky tannins, it’s mineral and precise, as it so often is.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

The 2019 Marsannay Clos de Jeu is limpid in color. It presents an enticing mix of red and black fruit, rose petal and violet aromas. The palate is fleshy on the entry with fine grip, and quite saline, leading to a lovely savory finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM(Domaine Joseph Roty Marsannay "Les Clos du Jeu" Villages Red) An even more complex nose offers up markedly ripe yet fresh notes of herbal tea, forest floor, plum, red and dark raspberry, violet and earth, all of which is trimmed in nuances of wood. The succulent and slightly bigger-bodied flavors possess a plush mid-palate mouthfeel along with good minerality, all wrapped in an impressively complex and persistent finish. While this possesses even denser tannins, the borderline creamy mouthfeel should permit this beauty of a Marsannay to be approachable after only 5 to 7 years of bottle age. Well worth considering. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 92 BHThe 2019 Marsannay Clos de Jeu offers up aromas of cherries, raspberries and loamy soil, framed by a deft touch of oak. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and seamless, it’s supple and layered, uniting upfront charm with aging potential.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP(Marsannay “Clos de Jeu”- Domaine Joseph Roty) The Clos de Jeu will also be promoted eventually to premier cru and it too is showing its lovely potential in this 2019 bottling from Domaine Roty. The nose jumps from the glass in a complex blend of sweet dark berries, black cherries, smoked meats, a touch of licorice, a fine base of soil tones, woodsmoke and a touch of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and tangy in personality, with a rock solid core of fruit, lovely mineral drive and grip, well-integrated tannins and a long, complex finish. Fine, fine juice. (Drink between 2027-2050)John Gilman | 91+ JG

A highlight this year is the 2019 Marsannay Les Ouzeloy, a lovely wine that opens in the glass with notions of cassis, plums, sweet berries and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, with a broad attack that segues into a layered, lively mid-palate, it’s a serious effort, built for the cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPThe 2019 Marsannay Les Ouzeloy has quite an expressive, slightly toasty bouquet of lavish black fruit laced with blood orange and graphite notes. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. The oak is quite noticeable at the moment and will require 4–5 years to be assimilated. Quite dense on the finish. A more sinewy Marsannay from Roty.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

There’s a new aromatic and showy 2020 Pour Ma Gueule Pinot Noir produced with grapes from a vineyard planted in Aconcagua Costa in 2007 with 10,000 plants per hectare on sandstone and calcium carbonate soils. It has a bright ruby color and a varietal nose of red berry fruit and flowers, with 13.8% alcohol, possibly reflecting a warm and dry year. The palate is medium-bodied, serious, with fine, chalky tannins. 18,846 bottles were filled in March 2021 after it matured in concrete with lees. A superb value, it’s one to buy by the case!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Village, which contains around 15% whole bunch, had only finished its malo a month prior to my visit. It has a dense, intense, blackcurrant and cassis-scented bouquet that will need time to mellow. The palate is medium-bodied, fresh and fleshy but the black cherry fruit is framed by fine tannins and the finish is so silky smooth that you cannot help falling for its charms. (Drink between 2025-2040)Vinous Media | 90-92 VMThere is a top note of kirsch to the earthier and spicier aromas of red and dark berry liqueur. The delicious, round and caressing flavors possess very good punch while exuding a refreshing salinity on the dusty and palate coating finale. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 88-91 BH

The 2020 Beaune Boucherottes 1er Cru is perhaps the one cuvée from this appellation that showed just a little sur-maturité, very slight touches of prune filtering though the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, quite firm in the mouth with a slightly short finish.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

Moderate wood surrounds the ripe blend of both red and black raspberry, exotic tea and pretty violet scents. The caressing, round and delicious medium weight flavors that possess good but not special density before firming up noticeably on the austere and much more mineral-driven finale.Burghound | 90-93 BHThe 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes (Domaine Louis Jadot) reveals aromas of rich berries, orange rind, peonies and warm spices. Medium to full-bodied, with a lively core of fruit, ripe but firm tannins and a nicely defined finish, it will demand some bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPThe 2020 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru comprises of one 456-litre barrel this year. It has a very well-defined bouquet with seamlessly integrated oak and impressive mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine delineation, just a little chewiness on the entry but there is tension interwoven into this Volnay from start to finish, plus great persistency. Superb.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

Here too there are ample spice elements adding breadth to the poached plum and black cherry liqueur aromas. The succulent, round and delicious flavors possess good if not truly special mid-palate density before concluding in a moderately austere, balanced and firmly structured finale. Patience advised here too as this powerful effort should age effortlessly.Burghound | 90-92 BHNotes of cherries, sweet berries, raw cocoa and spices preface the 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots (Domaine Louis Jadot), a medium to full-bodied, lively and vibrant wine, built around tangy acids and powdery tannins. As readers may remember, this parcel is situated quite near the route nationale, from the lower part of this large premier cru.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPThe 2020 Volnay Les Santenots 1er Cru has a concentrated nose, one that feels a little "hemmed in", does not quite flow like the other Volnays from Jadot. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, quite bold and muscular, but missing the elegance that I seek from this vineyard.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

Graphite, blackberry and plum aromas and flavors highlight this juicy red, which is balanced and plushly textured, with just the slightest hint of oak. Drink now through 2025. 18,000 cases made, 8,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

The entry-level red 2020 Sierra de Toloño was produced with Tempranillo from Rivas de Tereso, fresh and energetic, representing the high-altitude vineyards produced in a simple way. It has 13.5% alcohol and a medium body with good freshness, clean berry flavors, vibrant acidity and fine tannins. 35,000 bottles produced, the largest production by far. It was bottled in July 2021 after eight months in neutral barrels.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

The barrique-aged Tenuta Luce 2020 Lucente is a very well-priced blend of Merlot and Sangiovese. The wine shows a medium to full-bodied approach with sweet cherry, raspberry tart, almond cake and perfumed redwood or cedar smoke. It offers a contemporary style and soft texture that wraps fully over the palate. This is a handy, versatile wine to pair with a good many of your favorite Italian foods.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPRaisins, fruit pastilles, dates and blackcurrants - super ripe, a bit jammy on the nose with a cola tang and lots of oak, ash/tar nuances that stick out. Still quite a lot of savoury leather and tobacco elements on the palate, alongside strawberry and red cherry fruit. Lightly framed - just missing some depth and weight but easy to drink and enjoy.Decanter | 90 DEC

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Village has a very delineated, vibrant bouquet with white tipped strawberry and cranberry aromas, cohesive with impressive vigour and finesse. The medium-bodied palate is supple on the entry, extremely well balanced, surprisingly spicy with a finish that fans out wonderfully. Simply, one of the best Gevrey Villages you will find in 2021.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMAromas of red berries mingling with notions of sweet spices, forest floor and smoke introduce the 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Village, a medium-bodied, fleshy wine built around bright acids and beautifully refined, powdery tannins. Long and sapid, it shows outstanding potential.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPModerate reduction pushes the underlying fruit to the background. By contrast the middleweight flavors are ultra-fresh and very bright with excellent delineation while displaying solid depth and persistence on the youthfully austere finale. This should be reasonably approachable after only 2 to 3 years of keeping.Burghound | 88-91 BH

This is also distinctly earthy with humus nuances adding breadth to the aromas of violet, plum and red currant. The succulent, round and equally sappy medium weight flavors possess a highly appealing mouthfeel while the youthfully austere finish is also shaped by firm but fine-grained tannins. This silky effort could use better depth but it’s already quite pretty and should prove to be admirably ageworthy. (Drink starting 2031)Burghound | 90-93 BHMid crimson colour. Not one of the more ebullient noses at first, on its reserve. Plenty of weight of fresh fruit a little bit of fresh orange, otherwise raspberry and redcurrant, no great weight at the back but good length. This needs and will get a longer elevage. Drink from 2027-2033.Jasper Morris | 90-93 JM

Unusually supple and charming for a young wine from this site, the 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeots Rouge reveals notes of plums, rose petals, smoke and spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, giving and open-knit palate.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RPA restrained and slightly somber nose features notes of pepper, cherry, raspberry and more prominent earth influence. The delicious medium weight flavors possess a fleshy, plump and round mouthfeel while exhibiting fine depth and persistence on the mildly rustic finish. While this well-made effort could also be enjoyed young, a few years of cellaring should be beneficial.Burghound | 90 BH

Here’s another food-friendly wine from beautiful Piedmont. The 2021 Barbera d’Alba shows a dark purplish hue and saturated fruit flavors of dried blackberry and black cherry. There are hints of crushed mineral or oyster shell as well. The wine’s medium thickness would work across a breaded veal steak. Fruit is sourced across various sites with different soil types.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

The 2021 Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne marries the natural intensity of the year with the savory minerality typical of Asti. Dark cherry, grilled herbs, menthol, licorice and crushed rocks all race out of the glass. This is another stellar wine from Vietti.Vinous Media | 91 VMThis shows notes of chocolate and hazelnuts with ripe wild berries and sweet spice undertones. Medium- to full-bodied with dusty tannins and a bitter chocolate character. Tense with a fruity finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 91 JS

The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin La Marie, named after the lieu-dit close to the Château de Gevrey, has a fragrant bouquet with red cherries, wild strawberries and touches of quince, vivacious and beautifully focused. Saline in the mouth with plenty of energy, gradually building towards a well-proportioned, slightly peppery finish that might deceive you into thinking there were stems in the mix. A level up from the previous vintages.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMThe 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin La Marie is ampler and fuller than the regular Gevrey, unfurling in the glass with notes of dark berries, cherries, warm spices and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, with a succulent core of fruit and powdery tannins, it’s built to age with grace.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RPThis is the one wine in the range that was reduced and it’s enough to push the underlying fruit to the background. More interesting are the bigger-bodied and more concentrated flavors that brim with dry extract on the sneaky long and well-balanced finale. This is presently very backward, indeed it’s a bit grumpy, yet the potential for extended cellaring is clearly present. If you have the patience, and can find it, don’t hesitate.Burghound | 90-92 BH

A solid core of ruby purple. What a beautiful nose! Global warming says a friendly hello to cooler sites such as Les Barreaux. More oak this year because of the shortage of one year old barrels, and that shows a touch at the back at the moment but will all integrate. Very lively and extremely fine, with a greater depth of fruit than the Chambolle. The pinot fin plant selection is showing its class here. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted: November 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMThe 2022 Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux, which Paul Gros said the family considers a Premier Cru close to Cros Parantoux and Richebourg, is based on poor shallow limestone soils. The nose takes time to open and evolves lovely raspberry and wild strawberry scents laced with oyster shells. The palate is medium-bodied with good substance on the entry. This is more structured than you might presuppose. It has a silver bead of acidity, and the finish feels pixelated for a Village Cru. Bon vin.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMAlthough this is slightly closed on the initial attack, there is a crisply refreshing high-toned fruit character (cranberry, raspberry, pomegranate), with notes of peony and spice. The texture is fresh, tannic and grippy, and the compact, expressive fruit has an admirably chiselled character. The wine is from 75-year-old vines planted at the top of the slope above Richebourg and Cros Parantoux — the ’baby Richebourg’ according to Anne Gros. This wine will drink well from three to five years after the vintage.Decanter | 93 DECIn contrast to the expressiveness of the prior wines, here the nose is firmly reduced and reveals nothing. More interesting are the fresh, vibrant and beautifully textured medium-bodied flavors that already possess solid depth and very fine length on the balanced if firmly structured finale. Lovely.Burghound | 89-91 BH