Red Wines

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Composed of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and a 1% splash of Petit Verdot, the 2017 Montrose wine was run off into 60% new and 40% one-year old barrels where it was aged for 18 months. The grand vin represented 37% of the estate’s total production. Deep garnet-purple in color, the nose takes some time to unfurl before revealing an impressively flamboyant core of black cherry preserves, warm cassis and baked plums with hints of red currant jelly, dark chocolate, licorice, cardamom and chargrill plus a gentle waft of candied violets. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has fantastic intensity with a very elegant, modest weight, featuring super-ripe, finely-grained tannins and tons of freshness to lift and show-off a stunning array of gorgeous black fruit and fragrant sparks, finishing very long and refined. This is an incredibly classy, poised and sophisticated Montrose!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPExtremely aromatic with currant, wild-herb and fresh-violet aromas. This is regal cabernet sauvignon at its finest. The palate has unwaveringly long and defined tannins that carry such fresh, piercingly pure, redcurrant and cassis flavors. A twin to the superb 2015? A blend of 76% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot, 3% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot.James Suckling | 97 JSDelicious! This is beautifully austere, in the best way, closed in right now, but those layers of liquorice and black chocolate are unmistakable, giving intensity and concentration. A wine that would clearly merit time in bottle and is in it for the long haul. Powerful and tight with enjoyably bitter edges and notes of reduction but that only give confidence in how it will age. No frost meant a yield of 45hl/ha, 37% of which was for the grand vin. 60% new oak. Drinking Window 2027 - 2048.Decanter | 96 DECTasted on two separate occasions, the 2017 Chateau Montrose is a brilliant effort based on 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. This full-bodied, beautifully concentrated Saint-Estate offers classic Cabernet Sauvignon notes of creme de cassis, blueberries, crushed violets, and ample tobacco, with some underlying damp earth and spice notes developing with time in the glass. Balanced and beautifully textured on the palate, with both good acidity and building tannins, it reminds me of the 2012 with its classic style yet still has plenty of texture and ripe tannins. Give bottles 4-5 years of bottle age and enjoy over the following 30 years or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe 2017 Montrose is a very pretty, polished wine that speaks much more to finesse than power. Expressive floral and spices notes add an attractive inner sweetness to a Montrose that in 2017 leans more into the red fruit spectrum. Gracious yet deep, with terrific overall balance, the 2017 Montrose is a total winner. What impresses most about the 2017 is its freshness and sophistication. I won’t be surprised if Montrose turns out to be even better than this note suggests further down the road. Graphite, licorice, menthol and sage lead to a finish with real grip and freshness. The 2017 is such a classy and promising wine.Antonio Galloni | 95+ AG A well-structured wine, this is rich in tannins and in density. The tannins show firmness, a dry edge that runs with the black-currant fruits to give a wine that will be well balanced and serious.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThis is well-built for the vintage, featuring a core of red and black currant fruit that is pure and focused, supported by a racy iron spine. Exhibits ample length, with bay leaf, lilac and warm stone notes peeking through on the finish. Should develop nicely in the cellar. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2022 through 2038.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2017 Ornellaia Bianco is a slightly tweaked blend compared to the 2016 and includes a splash of Viognier. The blend is 91% Sauvignon Blanc and 9% Viognier, which is a combination you don’t see often, yet it makes sense, and the Viognier plays the role of Semillon seen in Bordeaux Blanc releases. Coming from a dry, hot year, it has a beautiful bouquet of Meyer lemons, honeysuckle, flowers, and hints of barrique. This carries to a seamless, full-bodied white that’s flawlessly balanced, has a bright core of acidity, ample mid-palate depth, and a great finish. It’s one seriously classy white I’d be thrilled to drink any time over the coming 4-5 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDA really beautiful, layered white with sliced lemons, limes, stones and hints of steel. Some lemon curd. Tight and solid with fine phenolics that give it structure and focus. Extremely poised and dignified. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSThe previous vintage of this wine was made soley with Sauvignon Blanc, but as expected, the Ornellaia 2017 Ornellaia Bianco sees a small percentage of Viognier added to the blend. The exact percentage of the two components is 91% Sauvignon Blanc and 9% Viognier. If you are a fan of these grape varieties, as I am, this wine will appeal to all your basic pleasure points. Showing medium rich concentration and a creamy textural fiber, it reveals some of the weight that we associated with this hot and dry vintage. However, any trace of over-ripeness is mitigated by the cool soils that, in this case, consist of deep calcarious clay broken up by rocks at a breezy 80 to 100 meters above sea level. This consistency is perfect for locking in moisture even in drought vintages. The wine is fermented in oak, but no malolactic fermentation occurs, and the wine instead rests on the fine lees with frequent stirring. Orchard fruits and Cavaillon melon give the wine a sturdy center of gravity. Some 5,000 bottles were made, and this wine was released in April 2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2017 Ornellaia Bianco is impressive, especially within the context of the warm, dry year. Bright and focused, the Bianco shows the natural richness of the vintage - that is impossible to escape - but it also retains quite a bit of energy. Orchard fruit, citrus and floral notes are beautifully delineated throughout. Once again, the Bianco is a wine of real distinction.Vinous Media | 94 VMSubtle peach, passion fruit, elderflower and earth flavors converge in this white. There is a touch of oak adding a vanilla accent. Though lush in texture, this is also intense and long, with an echo of passion fruit and salty elements. Drink now through 2024. 75 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

As always, the 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée De Mon Aïeul is all Grenache (from La Serres, La Crau, and La Guigasse) that was not destemmed and was brought up all in used demi-muids. It’s an extraordinary wine, offering a mammoth bouquet of kirsch liqueur, black raspberries, ground pepper, white flowers, and spice. Full-bodied, concentrated, and opulent on the palate, with silky tannins, it’s not going to match the 2010 or 2016, but t’s a magical, elegant, layered wine that does everything right.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThis is lush and inviting in feel, with waves of warmed raspberry reduction taking center stage, while plum paste and cherry skin notes add range. Underneath the fruit, notes of anise, red and black tea and gently mulled spice notes course along, all supported by perfectly embedded acidity. A gorgeous wine that’s hard to lay off now because of the fruit, but there’s absolutely no rush. Best from 2023 through 2040. 375 cases made, 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSRich and almost painfully intense, from yields that were reduced by coulure to only about six hectoliters per hectare, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de Mon Aieul is steadfast in being all Grenache and all whole cluster. Licorice, chocolate and super ripe plums appear on the nose, while the palate is full-bodied and velvety, with a long, warm finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPBrilliant ruby-red. An expansive, spice-accented bouquet evokes ripe red fruits, incense and potpourri, and a smoky mineral element adds urgency. Juicy, seamless and appealingly sweet, offering concentrated raspberry, boysenberry and floral pastille flavors that firm up slowly and turn spicier on the back half. Shows serious heft, but there’s a distinctly graceful quality as well. Finishes sappy, gently tannic and extremely long, leaving a suave lavender pastille note behind.Vinous Media | 94-95 VMAnother string release under this label, showing rich dark fruit and earthy notes with plenty of spice. Tarry notes as well. The palate has a very plush, ripe and rich feel with juicy, ripe dark berries and plums, really bathed in deep, long and smooth-honed tannins. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JS

Dark, bright-rimmed purple. Powerful red and dark berry preserve and cherry cola scents are complemented by exotic spice, incense and floral oil notes. Sappy and densely packed, offering palate-staining black raspberry, cherry liqueur, violet pastille and spicecake flavors braced by a core of juicy acidity. Youthfully chewy tannins build steadily on a strikingly long, penetrating finish that leaves behind smoky mineral and juicy dark berry notes.Vinous Media | 97 VMThe brightness and intensity here is fantastic with density and firmness that is most impressive. Squared-off tannins give this classicism and beauty. Full body. Extremely long and powerful. One to watch.James Suckling | 97-98 JSI also tasted the 2017 Pingus, which had a tough competition with the bottled 2016 and a barrel sample of the 2018 (and the fermenting 2019, but that doesn’t really count). 2017 was a weird vintage for the zone, as the year was marked by one spring frost that decimated the crop and completely changed the balance of the year. In 2007, they put a windmill in one of the plots, and although the plot was not able to escape the frost, it was not as acute as it was in the Flor de Pingus vineyards, where they lost up to 40% of the crop. At the Pingus vineyards, they lost some 25% of the grapes. They started the élevage in used barriques, where they wine matured for 12 months, and then moved the wine to larger barrels so they could extend the aging. There are alternate sensations of ripeness and herbal aromas. You can see a little bit of the tannic style of a concentrated year (1995, 2004, 2014), which is very different from fluid years like 2016 or 1996, with a rustic Ribera character. They saved the vintage with their knowledge of their vineyards, whereas in the past, a vintage like this could have been a disaster. Sometimes wines like this can have an unexpected development in bottle... 5,700 bottles were filled in July 2019.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RP

(Domaine de la Pousse d’Or Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Red) This is also aromatically inhibited with its reluctant nose of plum liqueur, leather, humus and evident floral wisps. Here too there is excellent volume and intensity to the muscular and powerful flavors that are shaped by firm tannins that leave no doubt that this is built-to-age and a wine that’s going to need extended patience. I would add that in the context of the 2017 vintage, this is a big wine. (Drink starting 2032)Burghound | 92-95 BHThe 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru offers more red fruit than the Bonnes-Mares, although at the moment this does not quite deliver the same nuance and comeliness. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, quite linear and strict (especially for this vineyard), but with a welcome pinch of white pepper and sage towards the persistent finish. Afford it several years in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

I loved the 2017 Côte Rôtie La Landonne, a magical expression of the Grand Cru terroir. Deep purple-hued with killer notes of black raspberries, bacon fat, ground herbs, and obvious minerality, this beauty is full-bodied, has ultra-fine tannins, a deep, concentrated mid-palate, and a finish that won’t quit. Do your best to hold bottles for 4-5 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 97+ JDThe winemaking at Domaine Rostaing is now in the hands of René’s son Pierre, and it follows the same format for all the Côte-Rôties: four weeks in tank, 18 months in mostly old oak, natural yeast fermentation, and as many stems as possible - 100% in this case. This wine shows supreme freshness and vitality, and is very direct and straight, with notes of violets, black pepper and blackcurrant leading onto a long finish. It’s a powerful wine but shows great energy and presence. The acidity is pretty biting, and the tannins are tough, dense, saline and directional. This 2017 is lous, powerful, almost fierce.Decanter | 96 DECIn tank and awaiting bottling when I tasted it, the 2017 Cote Rotie la Landonne has smoothed out and added complexity in the past year. It now shows classic savory, meaty, la Landonne character and plenty of mocha goodness. It’s medium to full-bodied, lush and velvety on the mid-palate, then finishes long and tannic.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RPInky ruby. Spice-accented blackberry, cherry preserve, pipe tobacco and licorice on the deeply perfumed nose; a sexy floral topnote gains strength as the wine opens up. Sweet, spicy and penetrating, displaying velvety texture to the ripe dark berry, cherry and fruitcake flavors. Shows superb clarity and finishes smoky and impressively long, with mounting tannins and a lingering suggestion of candied violet.Vinous Media | 94 VMThis has an old-school persona, with a dusty sandalwood and cedar frame around a mix of mulled plum and black cherry fruit, showing bay leaf, leather and savory notes. A smoldering dark earth accent runs through the finish. Best from 2022 through 2038. 800 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

I can’t remember a more appealing sample of the Aux Thorey premier cru at this young stage from Sébastien Cathiard. Made with grapes from a 0.43ha parcel planted in 1953, it has a wonderful combination of sweetness, acidity, structure, and plush black cherry and orange zest flavours.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Thorey 1er Cru is consistent with my previous notes. Raspberry and black cherries, less cassis than noted out of barrel and more Pinoté than expected. The palate is well-balanced with fine-grain tannins. It’s quite Vosne-like thanks to its florality, with a subtle oyster shell-tinged finish. It still requires a couple of years in bottle, but it’s getting there.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey offers up a lovely bouquet of cassis, blackberries, warm spices, licorice and peony. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, with superb concentration and an earthier, chewier profile than the Murgers this year—despite the finesse of its tannins.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPA still youthfully fresh, pure, cool and restrained nose offers an appealingly spicy array of red currant, cherry and soft earth nuances. The mouthfeel of the energetic medium weight flavors is wonderfully refined while possessing fine complexity on the balanced, lingering and still slightly austere finale. Lovely stuff fashioned in an understated style that is still clearly on the way up though another 5 to 7 years should see it at its full maturity. I would note that this isn’t so backward that it couldn’t be enjoyed now if you don’t feel like waiting!Burghound | 91 BHFullish purple with a lighter rim. Some density of red fruit, not quite so intense, certainly ripe, a slight tarriness from the wood, perhaps because of a late malolactic fermentation. It does give grip to the finish though. Tasted: November 2018.Jasper Morris | 90-94 JM

The freshness and the floral aromas with citrus fruit and berries are startling for a 2017. The palate is full and extremely refined with elegant tannins and vivid fruit and orange-peel undertones. Racy and bright at the finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSHere’s a handsome bottle inside and out. The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Luce is an exuberant and flashy expression of Sangiovese. Just like the etched label design that features sunbeams, the wine radiates fresh fruit, cherry, spice, tar, licorice and grilled herb. The house style favors a contemporary and rich style of Sangiovese, and the wine’s velvety approach is measured against the ample texture and fruit weight presented here. This warm 2017 vintage is well interpreted by the folks at Tenuta Luce (even with that high 15% alcohol). Production is 30,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPGorgeous aromas on the nose, cola, cherries and exotic sweet spices. Lovely intensity straight away, piercing, finely detailed and driven. Wild strawberries, cherries and raspberries combined with dried scrubland mingling together to give both fruit and savoury aspects while the acidity keeps things lifted and bright. I love the freshness with the hit of sweet cherry and cola. Nuanced and giving. Still a touch of wood spice on the finish giving things a piquance and reminding you that this is a 14.5% alcohol wine and is one to be taken seriously. Excellent ageing potential.Decanter | 94 DECUnderbrush, violet and baked plum are some of the aromas you’ll find on this bold red. Big and savory, the warm palate is brawny but polished, offering fleshy black cherry, licorice and tobacco framed in velvety, enveloping tannins. It’s already almost accessible but also offers good midterm aging potential. Drink through 2027.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEA rich red, this boasts cherry, plum, leather, tobacco, bitter almond and herb flavors. Taut and dense, with brisk acidity and dusty tannins that truncate the finish for now. Traditional style. Best from 2025 through 2040. 2,500 cases made, 117 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSNo written review provided. | 90 W&S

Wild juniper, thyme, blackberry, black currant, mineral and tar flavors are the themes in this red, along with a resinous note from the oak. Racy, concentrated, solidly built and in the end, complex, if on the unforgiving side today. Sangiovese. Best from 2024 through 2043. 257 cases made, 75 cases imported.Vinous Media | 97 VMWild juniper, thyme, blackberry, black currant, mineral and tar flavors are the themes in this red, along with a resinous note from the oak. Racy, concentrated, solidly built and in the end, complex, if on the unforgiving side today. Sangiovese. Best from 2024 through 2043. 257 cases made, 75 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSSome pleasant black-cherry and mineral aromas here. Medium-bodied with a fresh, lightly firm palate and a medium finish. Lacks the touch of individuality that this wine usually offers, though this is a decent effort in 2017. Drink now.James Suckling | 90 JS