Red Wines

wines

The compelling Conti Costanti 2021 Brunello captivates with pronounced aromas of fragrant purple flower, eucalyptus, Mediterranean brush and perfumed berry. All about class and extreme finesse, the elegant palate delivers succulent wild raspberry, crushed Marasca cherry, spiced orange zest and star anise set against a backbone of fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity lends balance and great intensity. Year after year Andrea Costanti turns out what are among the very best wines from Montalcino, and the 2021 is no exception, it’s an absolute stunner with great aging potential. Drink 2031–2046. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 99 KOThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is darkly inward in its youthful state, brooding and tense with tobacco, minty herbs, cedary spice, plum and nuances of black cherry. Soft textures wash across the energetic palate as mineral-inflected red berry fruits saturate. Structured and incredibly long, the 2021 leaves the cheeks puckering amidst fine-grained tannins and a contrasting accent of sour citrus.Vinous Media | 95 VM

The bread-and-butter wine here is the 2021 Bela, produced with Tempranillo from the village of Villalba de Duero (mentioned on the label), from sandy and clay rich soils on limestone mother rock that delivers powerful but not overripe wines with a short-ish élevage to achieve a fine-boned and fresh wine. The grapes were picked between October 1st and 25th, mostly Tempranillo but some 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot too, and it matured in French oak barrels for nine months. The wine has 14.3% alcohol, a pH of 3.57 and close to five grams of acidity, textbook parameters from the zone and textbook profile of classical Ribera; it’s ripe without excess, with very integrated oak and a velvety palate with silky tannins. It reminds me of the historical wines from the early 1990s, Valribeño and so on, with some rusticity but very honest and characterful. With time in the glass, it develops a precise note of licorice intermixed with berry fruit and some spices and herbs. They feel this is the wine they wanted to produce from the beginning; they consider it their best vintage to date irrespective of the style of the year, with 2019 more powerful, 2020 more elegant and this 2021 something in between. 85,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP

With a much higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon (91%, with 9% Cabernet Franc), the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is less floral than the Maya but more obviously fruity and up front. Bold black cherries and cassis lead the way, framed by gentle oak shadings of cedar and vanilla, backed by deep bass notes of rich loam and hints of tobacco. Medium to full-bodied, the tannins are wonderfully judged, supple and velvety in one sip, then fine and silky in the next, while the finish lingers effortlessly, even if it lacks some of the seamless elegance of its sister.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPBlended with 11% Cabernet Franc, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon is even more Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated than most vintages. This inky purple-hued beauty offers a sensational nose of crème de cassis, liquid violets, flowers, new leather, and graphite that’s to die for. This carries to a massively concentrated, structured, inward Cabernet Sauvignon with building tannins, ample mid-palate depth and flesh, and a great finish.Jeb Dunnuck | 98+ JDThe core blocks for the Cabernet come from those in front of the house (House Block) and from further down the west-facing hill and a block on the right-hand side of the driveway through the gate, which is typically a later ripening block that imparts good natural acidity, imparting focus and length to the wine. Those blocks are later blended with a barrel selection of the Cabernet Franc blocks from the property. The Cabernet Franc is roughly 30% of the entire vineyard. A towering wine in 2021, the estate’s Flagship is super compact, teeming with concentrated black-toned fruits and perfectly integrated cedarwood spices. The tannins are elliptical with a palate-coating pixelated quality that comes into focus as the wine opens to reveal scented rose petals and black cherry, Damson plums, and tobacco spices. Nuances of crushed cocoa nibs and fragrant graphite minerality add depth and intrigue. Extravagantly long on the finish, revealing even more dried floral notes, herbs, and subtle hints of Indian spices. Don’t even think of opening it until 2025 or 2026, and be sure to enjoy this wine, a bottle a year, at least for the next three decades or more. Maya Dalla Valle, the daughter of founder Naoko Dalla Valle, is the winemaker with Andy Erickson and Michel Rolland consulting, while Edgar Alfaro manages the vineyards.Decanter | 98 DECComposed of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Cabernet Franc, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon is opaque purple-black in color, bursting from the glass with vibrant blackberries, black raspberries, and black cherries scents, followed by suggestions of violets, chocolate box, and cardamom. The medium to full-bodied palate is bright and energetic, with fine-grained tannins and a lively backbone supporting the intense black fruit flavors, finishing on a lingering fragrant earth note. Approachable now, it will benefit greatly from a couple of years in bottle should cellar for 25 years+.The Wine Independent | 97 TWIThis just feels special, as a focused, velvety wave of boysenberry, mulberry and black cherry reduction notes moves through steadily, carried by a graphite spine and laced throughout with iris and ganache accents. A terrific tug of cast iron is buried deeply on the finish. Best from 2025 through 2042. 1,100 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSA full-bodied and refined cabernet sauvignon with notes of blackberries, dark plums, warm herbs and spice box. Serious, with fine yet firm tannins. Vivid core of spices on the velvety center-palate. The caressing touch of berries mingles harmoniously with the peppercorns and grilled herbs. Authentic and well-composed, with a focused, long and lively finish. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon offers terrific density and power. Bright red-toned fruit, spice, leather, tobacco and rose petal are beautifully delineated. The 2020 is a bit lighter than usual, and the tannins are incisive, but at the same time all the elements are nicely balanced.Vinous Media | 92 VM

A weighty Les Clos which shows a fine balance between the intensity of minerality and acidity, melding with some juicy, confit-citrus fruit on the palate. Oak is restrained and in balance with the wine. A classy and refined example from this, the largest, part of the grand cru.Decanter | 94 DEC

Lovely nose of black raspberries and mulberries with the oak way in the background. Concentrated and very elegant with great powdery tannins underneath. Very long, polished finish that pulls you inexorably back to the glass for more of this beauty. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2021 Pinot Noir Momtazi Vineyard opens with a seductively rich bouquet that blends crushed black cherries and cloves with violet florals and hints of cola. This impresses further with its juicy character and soft textures, displaying vividly ripe wildberry fruits offset by hints of blood orange and a mineral suggestion toward the close. The 2021 takes a turn toward the savory spectrum through the finish, leaving gently grippy tannins to resonate as hints of licorice slowly fade. This is a fantastic, complex and lively rendition of Momtazi.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe 2021 Momtazi Vineyard bottling of pinot noir from Brianne Day is a beautiful wine in the making, coming in at an even thirteen percent octane and offering up beautiful purity of fruit, fine soil undertow and a lovely chassis of tannin to carry it effortlessly far into the future. The first class bouquet hops from the glass in a black fruity blend of black plums, sweet dark berries, espresso, gamebird, dark soil tones, sweet brown spices and a deft framing of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nicely structured, with a beautiful core of Momtazi black fruit, fine soil inflection and grip, fine-grained, buried tannins and a long, tangy and complex finish. This is a superb bottle, but it will demand some cellaring time to soften up its tannins properly and truly blossom. (Drink between 2033 - 2080)John Gilman | 93 JGBrianne Day does well pulling Pinot’s savoury character to the fore and this wine is another example. Aromatics of pine sap, sweet candied raspberries and ripe strawberries introduce the Pinot Noir from the renowned Momtazi Vineyard in the McMinnville AVA. The palate offers up early-season tart blackberries with muddled mint leaves, a touch of turned earth and chicory spice.Decanter Magazine | 92 DECIt’s starts as roller coaster ride as Tootsie Pop chocolate and pie cherry aromas pair up with Ponderosa bark and lemon-scented French laundry powder. The wine feels lithe and crisp on the palate, as flavors of raspberries, blackberries and black tea get lit up by frisky acidity. You will want to get back in line for this ride. Wine Enthusiast | 91 WE

Here the wood treatment is somewhat more prominent though it is still reasonably discreet and easily allows the spicy nose of plum, green tea, dark currant and humus to be appreciated. There is fine volume and punch to the caressing yet powerful middleweight plus flavors that culminate in a dusty, palate coating and impressively lingering finale. This compact effort should amply repay mid to longer-term keeping.Burghound | 93 BH

With 2.15ha, a blend from three plots in Chapelot, Montée de Tonnerre and Pied d’Aloup, with vines in the latter now 87 years old. As expected of Montée de Tonnerre, this will need a lot of time to come round. Powerful, primary and concentrated, with restrained mineral, stony notes. Great purity here, salty finish.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECLike the Vaillons, this is also quite firmly reduced though there is some wood influence present as well. The focused and beautifully refined flavors ooze minerality on the almost painfully intense, bone-dry and strikingly long but not especially austere finale. This is very stylish as well as classy. Well worth checking out.Burghound | 93 BHChapelot, Pied d’Aloue, Cote de Bréchain. Mostly tank. Very pretty lemon and lime colour. A clean, incisive bouquet, very pure and with class. Tension at the back, extremely youthful but definitely promising. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Jun 2022.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM

A markedly more floral-suffused and slightly cooler nose reflects notes of both white and yellow peach, citrus confit and a plenitude of spice elements. Here too the palate impression is seductive thanks to the superb concentration of the powerful and almost painfully intense broad-shouldered flavors that also display superb length on the balanced and equally tightly coiled finish. If you can find it, buy it.Burghound | 95 BHThis superb rendition of Bâtard has surprisingly ripe notes of quince and melon de Cavaillon, acacia flower, and spice. The texture is dense and rich but kept lively by the fresh acidity of 2021. The grapes come from three parcels totaling nearly a half hectare. Two are planted with vines more than fifty years of age, and all three are in Chassagne near the border with Puligny. This year Blain stirred the lees (not always done) to give the wine a bit more density and depth.Decanter | 94 DEC

Having finished pruning just eight days before the brutal trio of April frost days and having put out a ’shameful’ number of candles, Weber was rewarded (it’s all relative in this miserly vintage) with almost 20 hl/ha. And, it is a divine Montrachet with spiced pears, herbal tea, gingerbread and cream. It is all lace and flourishes. The bustling acidity drives the flavors into a seemingly eternal finish with a lightly crispy edge. Bravo! (2023)Tim Atkin | 97 TATOP QUALITY This is a wine of impressive concentration, with complex layers of fruit on the nose that range from citrus to green apple, apricot, quince and passion fruit. There are elements of cream, butter, flinty mineral and fresh flowers. The texture is dense and long, but there is no lack of freshness, and the balance seems nearly perfect. It is produced from 0.89ha of mature vines on the Puligny side, just south of the Ramonet parcel. Profound and ageworthy, it will doubtless also show well young.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThe 2021 Montrachet Grand Cru is half the normal volume, pruned just before the frost with a massive number of candles, therefore it managed to produce 20hL/ha despite everything. This is unequivocally a step up from the Chevalier-Montrachet with greater definition and poise, more energy. The palate is well balanced with fine detail, light wild peach and citrus notes, fine mineralité with satisfying tension on the finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 94-96 VMA bit better in yield as everybody protected their vines in Le Montrachet, with the 2016 disaster in mind. A fine mid lemon yellow, this begins discreetly but there is a wonderful concentrated intensity through the middle, a racy quality perhaps not quite there in the Chevalier. This time there is clearly a beginning, a middle and an end. Really enormously persistent and leaving a special taste in the mouth. I might just sip it to keep me company en route to my next tasting in Gevrey-Chambertin! Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Nov 2022.Jasper Morris | 94-98 JMThe 2021 Montrachet Grand Cru opens in the glass with aromas of pear, confit orange, honeycomb, spices and freshly baked bread. Full-bodied, ample and satiny, it’s rich, fleshy and complete, with lively acids and a long, expansive finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPReluctant if broad-ranging aromas include those of petrol, floral, spice, white orchard fruit, especially white peach, exotic tea and a suggestion of oak. The dense and powerful yet caressing large-scaled flavors coat the palate with sappy dry extract while displaying stunningly good length on the balanced, youthfully austere and compact finale. This is definitely built-to-age but the mid-palate density is so good that the 2021 Montrachet should be approachable after only 7 to 8 years of keeping.Burghound | 93-96 BH

The 2021 Chablis Vaillon 1er Cru Cuvée Guy Moreau comprises just five used barrels this year. The fine bouquet is a little more mineral-driven than the regular cuvée with touches of wet pavement and citrus lemon. The palate is well-balanced, fresh and taut, with a fine bead of acidity, growing a little more compact towards the finish but with slightly more salinity to get the tastebuds going. Very fine.Vinous Media | 92 VMHere too there is a vaguely exotic note to the pretty and very floral aromas of spice, pear, apple and quinine that are trimmed in subtle wood. The old vines are very much in evidence on the concentrated, palate coating and rich bigger-bodied flavors that possess focused power on the saline and intensely bitter zest-suffused finish. This should be excellent in time.Burghound | 92 BHThis white packs a mix of peach, melon, lime and pastry flavors, which pick up light smoke and mineral accents as this builds to the finish. Firm, crisp and long. Drink now through 2026. 20 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WSThis and the Grands Crus were made entirely in wood so as to keep the existing stock of barrels full of wine. Pale yellow, with a little butteriness from the wood. This slightly dominates the palate with a note of acidity to finish. Will sort itself out in due course. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted: June 2022.Jasper Morris | 90-93 JM

A serious nose with great depth and complexity here. Fine oak spices, chalk, meringue, lanolin and a twist of praline/pistachio to the intense lemons, honeyed gooseberries and mineral. Extremely harmonious with a deliciously saline touch to the center palate. Medium- to full-bodied, with a persistent but elegant and subtle finish that lasts almost a minute. 70% sauvignon blanc and 30% semillon. Already a joy to taste and drink, but will hold well over the next 15 years at least. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2021 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc is a dense, powerful dry white. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2021 is going to need quite a bit of time to be at its best. Today, the wine’s textural intensity and some oak are front and center. The 2021 is a Blanc of substance and real character. I can’t wait to see how it ages.Vinous Media | 96 VMThis grand Bernard family estate in Léognan is legendary for its white wine. This is a ripe, spicily wood-aged wine. Its background of young acidity brings out a tangy edge that will soften and fill out into a long-lived wine. Drink from 2026.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEA blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon, the 2021 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc sails from the glass, after a swirl of two, with a gorgeous perfume of spiced apples, grapefruit oil, and orange blossoms, leading to wafts of sea spray and paraffin wax. The medium-bodied palate has a gorgeous satiny texture juxtaposing the racy backbone and supporting the apple and citrus layers, finishing long and perfumed.The Wine Independent | 96 TWIA rich honeyed apple and apricot nose with soft white blossom notes. So lifted and expressive on the palate, creamy lemon, pear, red apple and apricot. Gently round, this has a nice delicacy but also good weight - a refined palate with a soft creaminess. Easy to drink and enjoy with excellent structure and density for the vintage, you get enough acidity and texture to give a full mouthfeel without anything being too much or over the top but still with enough flavour that it’s interesting and compelling. A top buy.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2021 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc is a blend of 70% Sauvignon and 30% Sémillon that matured for 18 months in barrels, of which 35% were new. Delivering a deep, complex bouquet that features aromas of spices, white pepper, elderflower, citrus oil and wet stones, it’s full-bodied, round and generous, with a satiny attack that segues into a fleshy, vibrant palate, concluding with a pure and precise finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPMostly Sauvignon Blanc (there’s 30% Semillon), the 2021 Domaine De Chevalier Blanc offers beautiful tart citrus, honeyed minerality, and sappy, floral notes in a fresh, focused, racy style that still brings beautiful depth and richness. It’s more tight and reserved than the L’Esprit and needs 2-4 years in the cellar. It’s another classy, vibrant, age-worthy beauty from this brilliant estate.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThis has a bit of flamboyance, with orange curd and elderflower notes rippling along the edges of a bright yellow apple and honeysuckle core. Shows a salted butter accent on the finish. A delightfully expressive white. Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Drink now through 2031. 2,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2021 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, located right above their Caillerets, comprises of a single 600-liter barrel that was racked into an old Stockinger to limit oxygen ingress. It has a taut and focused bouquet with crushed stone infusing the citrus fruit, hints of honeysuckle and pressed white flowers. The palate is medium-bodied with a very subtle reduction on the entry, orange rind and hints of yuzu; the 2021 is quite mineral-driven with a clean and precise finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 94-96 VM1 x 600 litre barrel! Full lemon yellow. Plenty of weight apparent and a suggestion of class without having found its definition. Actually, it is pretty much complete on the palate, ripe apples, medium plus flesh, a certain juiciness over and above the natural austerity of the vineyard, and very persistent. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: October 2022.Jasper Morris | 94-96 JM This is even more floral on the slightly more expressive nose that features notes of Poire William, zest, green apple and soft spice nuances, especially anise. The round but almost painfully intense medium weight plus flavors possess a caressing mouthfeel along with almost as much mineral character as the Caillerets while delivering stunningly good length on the beautifully nuanced finale. This is very classy and somewhat surprisingly for a young Chevalier, not especially austere. With that said, this beauty is built to reward mid to longer-term cellaring.Burghound | 93-95 BH

Here too a discreet application of wood is present on the equally cool, wonderfully pure and exceptionally pretty aromas of essence of red currant, violet, lavender and a hint of earthiness. There is both excellent volume and mid-palate density to the intense and sleek mouthfeel that is again thanks to the polished tannins supporting the focused and sneaky long finish. As is often the case with the Lignier Charmes, it is a combination of power and finesse.Burghound | 92-94 BH

In 2021, the domaine protected this site above all from frost but still lost half their crop, despite being surrounded by the also well-protected vines of Domaine Leflaive. Accessible almost even now, the aromas of green apple and passionfruit, coconut, butter, and baking spice are almost opening even now. There is a lovely freshness and silky texture, yet this is a powerful wine with impressive length and density at the end. This should open in five years and continue to improve for at least twenty-five more.Decanter | 96 DECA gorgeously fresh, airy and cool nose combines notes of green apple, a panoply of white flowers nuances, wet stone and a pretty array of exotic spice elements, especially jasmine. There is a notably more refined mouthfeel to the tautly muscular and overtly mineral-driven medium weight plus flavors that exhibit focused power on the impressively long, balanced, youthfully austere and very classy finale. This is exceptionally stylish and a wine that should easily reward a decade plus of keeping.Burghound | 94 BH

15% whole bunch vinification. The colour is noticeably more robust than the preceding wines, as too is the bouquet, backed a little by new oak (30%) but showing a good intensity of robust raspberry fruit on the nose, which carries through across the palate. This has a good balance between fruit and structure. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted Dec 2022.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JM

The 2021 Ducru-Beaucaillou captures all the potential it showed from barrel. A delicate, understated wine, the 2021 impresses above all else with its finesse. All the elements are impeccably balanced throughout. Time in the glass brings out the wine’s inner sweetness and gorgeous perfume. The balance with oak, at times a challenge here, is also flawless. With lower alcohol and therefore also less extraction from oak than recent vintages, the 2021 is shaping up to be a modern-day classic. The blend is 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Merlot, the highest amount of Cabernet Sauvignon ever here. What a wine.Vinous Media | 98 VMBeautiful and beguiling nose, perfumed blackcurrants and dark fruits; damsons, plums, raspberries and rose petals. Lovely crunchy fruit, real bite and presence in the mouth. Excellent precision, tannins are succulent and ripe they fill the mouth with a juicy, intense granular texture. There is such depth to this - perfume, tobacco, earth, violets and concentrated fruits that have a verticality to them with an unprecedented 98% of Cabernet Sauvignon providing the support and the backbone. There is a crystalline purity to the fruit giving tension to the overall frame, it’s focussed and driven all with excellent definition. This is not a wallflower of a wine - it’s charming and confident, strutting its stuff right now and giving you absolut St-Julien terroir and vintage markers in the glass with slate, graphite and liquorice salinity on show. Skilled winemaking on show.Decanter | 96 DECFirm, structured and pure with a cool and solid core of dark currants, blackberries, tar, pencil lead and bitter chocolate. Hints of tobacco, too. Firm but silky tannins. Very pure, with a long, mineral finish. Intense and very focused. 98% cabernet sauvignon and 2% merlot.James Suckling | 96-97 JSThis is a wine with enormous potential with rich tannins and dark black fruits. At the same time, it has lightness that gives it a lift of fine black currant fruits. It will age, of course.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEI was also able to retaste a barrel sample of the 2021 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, and it showed in line with my tastings last year. It’s a shockingly concentrated, medium to full-bodied, balanced Ducru Beaucaillou that I think will surpass most of the so-called petits millésimes of the past two decades, and that just goes to show the level of attention to detail and talent at this address.Jeb Dunnuck | 95-97 JDA wine that will delight Médoc purists, the 2021 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a blend of fully 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Merlot and checks in at a mere 12.5% alcohol. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries, cigar wrapper, violets, loamy soil and spices, it’s full-bodied, layered and velvety, with superb depth at the core, lively acids and powdery tannins. Complete and penetrating, it’s a true classic, reminiscent of a modern-day version of Ducru’s brilliant 1996—though today’s precision winemaking means that the 2021 is unlikely to go through so long a hibernation as that vintage.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96 RPThe 2021 Ducru-Beaucaillou, 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Merlot, was tasted as a tank sample just before bottling. Deep garnet-purple in color, it opens with notes of crushed blackcurrants, fresh raspberries, and Morello cherries with touches of dried herbs, mossy tree bark, pencil lead, and damp soil. The light-bodied palate delivers mouth-filling, crunchy, black and red berry flavors with chewy tannins and a lively backbone, finishing with an herbal lift.The Wine Independent | 92-94+ TWI

A deeper, richer, more powerful wine, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain sports a deep ruby/plum hue to go with a Pauillac-like nose of blackcurrants, scorched earth, graphite, and lead pencil notes. It’s full-bodied, incredibly concentrated, has the classic Howell Mountain tannic structure, and a gorgeous finish. Give bottles 7-8 years if you can and enjoy over the following 2-3 decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 98+ JDThe colour of the Howell Mountain Cabernet is noticeably darker than the Napa Valley bottling, showcasing an incredibly intense, mineral-driven profile. The tannins have an ironstone-like quality—firm, structured, and reminiscent of that "iron fist in a velvet glove" metaphor. The palate has remarkable density, balanced by a pure, vibrant mix of tart red berries and black cherries. The tannins become more assertive, but as they gradually soften, a rush of juicy blood orange acidity emerges. The wine carries intriguing layers of sagebrush, cedarwood, and warm brown spices, delivering ample power and complexity. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon fermented in stainless steel tanks, aged up to 32 months in 100% new French oak. The first vintage of Dunn Vineyards produced was the 1979 Howell Mountain Cabernet. Founder Randy Dunn’s son, Mike, joined in 1999. As of 2023, Ted Kizor was named winemaker, working in tandem with the Dunns.Decanter Magazine | 98 DECThe 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is one of the most polished young wines I have ever tasted from Dunn. Blackberry, graphite, crushed rocks, lavender, espresso, licorice and spice saturate the palate. There’s plenty of Howell Mountain tannin and acid, but in 2021, those elements are totally woven into the wine’s heady, luxurious fabric. Even so, I would not plan on opening a bottle any time soon. The 2021 spent 31 months in 100% new French oak, pretty much the norm here. What a wine!Vinous Media | 97 VMDunn’s 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is richer, denser and more concentrated than the Napa Valley bottling but still hits the winery’s hallmark notes of cedar, cassis, blueberries, pine needles and rubbed sage. It’s medium to full-bodied, weighing in at just under 14% alcohol, but the tannins are ripe and relatively silky, and the wine finishes with tremendous length and ample harmony.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RP

This wine represents a blend of fruit from various sites, and 15,000 bottles were created. Showing a classical profile, the E. Pira e Figli - Chiara Boschis 2021 Barolo Via Nuova delivers a firm sense of inner fiber and richness with dark blueberry and black fruit. These aromas are enhanced by ethereal tones of blue flower and aniseed. The tannins are slightly more approachable in this wine compared to the Mosconi, but the intensity and richness of the mouthfeel is about the same.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2021 Barolo Via Nuova is a gorgeous, poised wine . Bright and energetic, with tons of drive, the 2021 has so much to offer. Brisk acids and veins of tannin shape this dynamic mid-weight Barolo. Blood orange, plum, chalk and rose petal are some of the many notes that come alive with aeration. The Via Nuova is a gorgeous wine in the making, but it needs a few years to be at its most expressive.Vinous Media | 96 VMA fleshy, vibrant red, featuring cherry, plum, green olive, iron, tar and tobacco flavors. There’s intensity and viscosity midpalate, while the aftertaste stretches out, echoing the fruit, savory and mineral components. Shows superb balance and length; this just needs time. Best from 2029 through 2048. 375 cases made, 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSA lifted and energetic Barolo, the 2021 Barolo Via Nuovais boasts a jeweled ruby color and has a fantastic, balanced nose with notes of ripe peaches, sweet sandalwood, floral perfume, and wild strawberries. Medium-bodied, the palate is refreshing and focused, with vibrant acidity, finely coiled tannins, and a long and linear finish. It has a bit more open feel at this stage, but it should have solid aging potential and improve over the next 20 or more years.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDAn intense Barolo with aromas of Parma violets, cinnamon, restrained blood oranges, cherries and licorice. Incredibly precise and defined. Full-bodied on the powerful and graceful palate, with velvety tannins and refreshing, lifted acidity. A lot of substance, with a crunchy style and balance. Long, licorice aftertaste. Best after 2027.James Suckling | 96 JS

The 2021 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is a deep, powerful wine. In most vintages, the Gavarini Chiniera is a bit more linear, but the 2021 has an extra kick of textural depth that is such a hallmark of the year. Iron, chalk, dried flowers, mint and red cherry fruit build with a bit of coaxing. Readers will find a potent, explosive Barolo that hits all the right notes.Vinous Media | 97 VMComing from the highest plot on the hill at 450 meters elevation, with a southeast exposure and sandy limestone soils, the 2021 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera pours a bright ruby red color and is the more lifted and linear of the two Barolo in the range. In the glass, it’s spicy and focused on the nose, with notes of red cherries, floral perfume, minty fresh herbs, and bright spices. Raised for 30 months in Garbelotto barrels, the palate is also focused and medium-bodied, with bright acidity that drives the wine, ripe but coiled tannins, and a stony texture through the finish. It offers fantastic energy throughout, and I would love to have a few of these stashed away in my cellar. Drink 2027-2047.Jeb Dunnuck | 96+ JDReaching 400m, Gavarini Chiniera sits on slightly sandy, limestone-rich clay. The 2021 saw a 40-day submerged cap maceration and, like its sister bottling Casa Matè, was matured in 25-hectolitre untoasted Slavonian oak casks. It is redolent of pine forest, spice, rose and violet. With cherry and black currant depths, the full-bodied palate brings in earthy truffles, making for a thoroughly captivating expression. A crisp backbone of acidity counters the fleshy fruit and fine, granular tannins provide a well-drawn frame.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECA graceful Barolo with cinnamon, cherry pits, Parma violets and subtle blood oranges on the nose. Delicate on the palate, with a medium body, refined velvety tannins and integrated long acidity. Red currants in the finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JS

The 2021 Barolo Ginestra Casa Matè is fabulous. Bright and transparent, with captivating depth, the 2021 is a stunning beauty. Enveloping balsamic notes make a strong opening statement that remains a theme here. Blue/purplish fruit, lavender, spice and blood orange all come alive in the glass. What a wine!Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 2021 Barolo Ginestra Casa Mate displays a bit more ruby and deeper pigment in the glass and has notes of raspberry liqueur, sweet sage, pressed flowers, cedar, and licorice. It’s very pretty on the nose and carries more sapidity to the palate while also retaining lovely purity, with ripe tannins, slightly broader shoulders, and a long finish. Both of the Barolo have a tremendous amount to offer, but with distinctive personalities, and for my taste, this one has a slight edge. (I also wouldn’t be surprised if that were to flip with a different mood and tasting.) The perfumes of both the wines are exceptional in this fantastic vintage. Drink 2027-2057.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDA complex Barolo with a layered nose of licorice, vibrant red cherries, blood oranges, sweet violets and earthy minerality. Full-bodied, it shows elegance of extraction with red fruit flavors, freshness and integration. Velvety and savory tannins with excellent length. Try from 2026.James Suckling | 96 JSJust 300m away from Gavarini Chiniera, Casa Matè sits slightly lower, between 300 to 350m. Characterised by richer clay soil and full south exposure, it is always the first to bud and to be picked, usually 10 days earlier than Gavarini Chiniera. Intense aromas of liquorice, bay leaf and rosemary make for a pungent introduction. Laden with dark cherry and black raspberry, the palate is luscious on the entry, becoming more rigid as virile, commanding tannins take hold. Remarkably balanced in its girth, power and concentration.Decanter Magazine | 95 DEC

A rich purple in color, the 2021 Barbera D’Alba Pre-Phylloxera comes from 130-year-old vines from a single cask. It is expansive aromatically, with a perfume that offers more spice in its notes of black pepper, blackcurrant liqueur, and lavender, giving it an almost Syrah-like character. A very special wine, it fills the palate with plummy fruit and cleans up with dark minerals. Full-bodied without being weighted, this is a wine with more aging potential, although it is outstanding now. Drink 2023-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDFrom one of the oldest vineyards in Italy, and one of the very few in all of Europe that survived Phylloxera, the remarkable Cogno 2021 Barbera d’Alba Pre-Phylloxera offers a rare glimpse of what wines made on their original rootstock can offer. Hailing from a small plot of vines well over one hundred years old, it has balsamic aromas of camphor and new leather that mingle with ripe dark-skinned fruit, violet and tobacco. Full-bodied and boasting a weightless concentration, the savory palate delivers ripe black cherry, blood orange, white pepper and licorice alongside enveloping, refined tannins. Thanks to vines planted 520m above sea level, it also boasts vibrant acidity and energy. What a fantastic wine. Drink or hold through 2031. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOElvio Cogno produce just 1,800 bottles annually of this Barbera d’Alba, made from 0.25ha of 140-year-old vines in Berri near La Morra, on chalky, sandy soils. Like the ‘standard’ Barbera d’Alba, it’s vinified in stainless steel and aged in Slavonian oak casks for 12 months, yet here the result is more complex and more concentrated: pure hedgerow berry and violet scents adorn a palate full of sweet, ripe black cherry, with notes of cream, coffee and tar in the background. The finish is long and freshly balsamic, carrying more of that gorgeous violet-infused fruit.Decanter | 94 DEC

Perfumed and structured, the compelling 2021 Ravera from Cogno entices with aromas of ripe dark-skinned berry, dark Asian spice, pressed rose and a balsamic whiff of camphor. Boasting succulent fruit, the chiseled palate features ripe black cherry, black raspberry, ground clove, cinnamon and licorice before a salty finish. It has great tension, with firm, fine-grained tannins and bright acidity. Drink 2029–2041. Abv: 14.5%Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOMint, eucalyptus, plum, earth, oak spice and tar notes mark this lean, sinewy red, which is compact despite starting out with an open feel, featuring a core of sweet, ripe fruit midpalate. The assertive tannins require patience, while the aftertaste indicates this wine’s future potential. Best from 2028 through 2050. 625 cases made, 300 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe bright red colour, obtained thanks to a marathon 40-day maceration, anticipates a symphony of aromas: rose petals, citrus, cinnamon, graphite, mint. In the mouth, a refined elegance. Persuasive and framed by silky tannins, the acidity is exhilarating and the crunchy fruit returns on the finish. Partly whole-bunch vinified, using yeasts indigenous to the Ravera sub-zone, then refined only in large barrels. A post-modern Barolo.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECThese vineyards in Novello open to the Alps and an exceptional panorama. The Elvio Cogno 2021 Barolo Ravera is made with the Lampia and Michet clones of Nebbiolo. The wine offers a distinct character with iron ore and crushed stone behind dark fruit and pressed rose. I also get a hint of exotic spice in this gorgeous wine. This is a 14,000-bottle release.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2021 Barolo Ravera is highly expressive and a standout in the range, revealing layers of depth in its underlying notes of balsamic herbs, and its fruit shines brightly with preserved strawberries, wild spices, and crushed flowers. Sourced from 80-year-old vines just below the winery, the palate is saturated with ripe tannins, sanguine mineral richness, a broad-shouldered mid-palate, and a long finish. It’s built to last over the coming two to three decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDAromas of orange rind with touches of red fruit and tar. The palate is medium- to full-bodied, very well constructed, with a fine line of acidity, a good core of delineated fruit and polished yet firm tannins. Lovely to taste now, but will be better from 2026.James Suckling | 95 JS

An exuberantly fresh nose of spicy purple fruit, exotic tea, violet and hints of cinnamon and sandalwood are trimmed in discreet but not invisible wood. There is both good richness and punch to the supple medium-bodied flavors that conclude in a lightly austere but impressively long and harmonious finale. This could use better depth but like the VRBM, the Rouget Ech has an excellent track record for aging well.Burghound | 92-94 BHThe 2021 Echézeaux Grand Cru, aged in 100% new oak, is tasted from two barrels as one is heavily reduced, while the other shows fine delineation: crushed strawberry, wild mint and loam. The palate is heavily reduced at first, quite dense and broad-shouldered, black cherries mixed with cassis, a little chocolaty towards the finish.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The 2021 Vosne-Romanée Village is perfumed, floral and pure on the nose with wilted violet petals infusing the red fruit - très Vosne. The palate is silky smooth with a fine body. This sample is taken from a new barrel so it has some François Frères imprint on the finish, but there is appreciable focus and length.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMThis particular sample was pulled from a new barrel and not surprisingly, the wood influence was generous on the aromas of black raspberry, plum, exotic tea and star anise. The sleek and vibrant flavors are also not especially dense, but they do possess a more sophisticated texture while exhibiting very good length on the bitter pit fruit-inflected finish. This too should be relatively approachable young if you don’t wish to wait.Burghound | 89-91 BH