Red Wines

wines

(Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay "Frémiets" 1er 1er Cru Red) Here the nose is appreciably fresher and also displays notes of red currant though the minerality now extends to the aromas and in hallmark Frémiets style, also suffuses the rich, supple and refined middle weight flavors blessed with ample amounts of dry extract that buffer the moderately firm tannins on the impressively long finish. The minerality is so strong that there is a Chablis-like saline character. A classy effort of finesse. (Drink starting 2016)Burghound | 91-93 BHThe 2009 Volnay Fremiet is beautifully pointed. Sweet dark cherries, plums, violets, graphite and licorice are woven together in an articulate, chiseled Volnay that impresses for its energy, delineation and sheer underlying structure. All the elements are in the right place. This is a terrific showing from d’Angerville and one of the few 2009s that actually needs time to come together.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The virtually perfect 2009 Cote Rotie Lancement Cote Blonde is stunningly perfumed with notes of black raspberries, blackberries, graphite, forest floor, tapenade and subtle smoke. Silky tannins, a phenomenal skyscraper-like mouthfeel and a sensational finish with light to moderate tannin suggest it will benefit from 2-4 more years of bottle age, and should drink well for two decades or more. Ogier's wines just keep getting better and better, so if you haven't yet jumped on the Ogier bandwagon, it's time to do so. Michel Ogier, and more recently his son, Stephane, are the leading craftsmen in terms of wines from the steep hillsides north of the old Roman town of Vienne. These are still entitled to only a VDP designation, but current vintages are the finest he has yet produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 99 RPA muscular red, with an almost brooding feel, as steeped blackberry and black currant fruit rolls along, spiked with pastis-soaked plum, charcoal and dark tobacco, followed by a long finish filled with black olive and iron. Riveting acidity keeps everything marching along with purpose. Shows terrific range and character. Best from 2014 through 2026. 30 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSOpaque ruby. Vibrant raspberry, cherry-vanilla and incense aromas are complemented by candied licorice and smoky minerals. Pliant, palate-staining red and dark berry preserve flavors are enlivened by Asian spices and a hint of blood orange. Shows outstanding clarity and cut, with gentle tannins adding shape and focus to the strikingly long, sweet, pure finish.Vinous Media | 95 VM

(Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes- Domaine Ponsot) The opulent 2009 Clos de la Roche seems a bit more black fruity in its personality than the equally flamboyant, but much more red fruity 1985 version, at least at this early stage in its evolution. The nose is deep, pure and sappy, as it offers up scents of black cherries, plums, roasted venison, fresh herb tones, coffee and a very complex signature of soil. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, broad-shouldered and powerfully built, with a huge core of sappy fruit, excellent focus and balance, suave, but substantial tannins and brilliant length and grip on the opulent and palate-staining finish. (Drink between 2020-2070)John Gilman | 96+ JG(Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Red) This impressively complete wine offers up very ripe aromas of spice, earth and game that introduce strikingly rich, naturally sweet and mouth coating big-bodied flavors that explode on the formidably long finish. This is a classy wine with absolutely superb complexity, impeccable balance and almost uncanny presence, all delivered with grace and power. Be prepared to be patient however as this will need plenty of time. A 'wow' wine that possess excellent verve, especially within the context of the '09 vintage. (Drink starting 2029)Burghound | 96 BHThe 2009 Clos de la Roche Cuvée Vieilles Vignes is round, sweet and totally enveloping. It is a huge, towering wine that impresses for its gorgeous inner perfume and juicy, exuberant fruit. This shows tons of richness without being heavy or overripe in any way.Antonio Galloni | 94-97 AGThe 2009 Clos de la Roche Cuvee Vieilles Vignes is round, sweet and totally enveloping. It is a huge, towering Burgundy that impresses for its gorgeous inner perfume and juicy, exuberant fruit. This shows tons of richness without being heavy or overripe in any way. Anticipated maturity: 2029-2049.This set of 2009s from Laurent Ponsot was among the finest I tasted. The wines are simply dazzling from top to bottom. Ponsot was among the last to harvest in 2009, essentially starting when most, if not all, of his colleagues already had the fruit in their cellars. The fruit was 100% destemmed and the wines were vinified in oak vats. The wines were then racked into barrel for the malos, where many of them stayed with no further rackings. There is no new oak at Ponsot. The barrels range from 5 to 50 years of age. The range now includes a head spinning eleven Grand Crus, which now total an astonishing 70% of the estate’s total production. Ordinarily I would suggest cellaring the top 2009s for a minimum of 15 years or so, but now that Ponsot is bottling all of his wines with synthetic plastic corks made in Italy it is hard to know exactly how the wines will develop. I tasted all of the 2009s from barrel, where they had been aging since finishing their malolactic fermentations.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-97 RP

The 2009 Volnay En Caillerets bursts from the glass with a huge, explosive bouquet. Blackberries, blueberries, hard candy and spices are just a few of the notes that emerge from this layered, intense Burgundy. There is plenty of inner tension here, in fact the Caillerets appears to be holding back a lot of its potential. It is a dazzling wine though, and one built for the long haul. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2049.Robert Parker | 94 RP(Domaine Pousse d’Or Volnay "En Caillerets" 1er 1er Cru Red) A discreet touch of wood frames notably elegant aromas of plum, violets and stone where the latter element also suffuses the rich, fleshy and delicious middle weight flavors that possess an abundance of dry extract that buffers the moderately firm tannins on the impressively persistent finish. This should be lovely in time. (Drink starting 2017)Burghound | 92 BH(Domaine de la Pousse D’Or Volnay en Caillerets) Bright fresh ruby. Aromas of cassis, mint and game, along with a liqueur-like note of black cherry. Sweet and concentrated, round and full. Wonderfully ripe without being roasted, with an element of sweetness giving this wine considerable early appeal. Substantial sweet tannins are buried under the wine’s fruit today on the long finish.Vinous Media | 91 VM

The 2010 Romanée-St.-Vivant from Hudelot-Noëllat is properly more reserved than the Malconsorts, but in terms of complexity and purity, these two wines are cut very much from the same cloth in this vintage. The stunning nose soars from the glass in a beautiful blend of sappy red and black cherries, raspberries, a touch of blood orange, a great base of soil tones, a bit of duck and a judicious framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very pure on the attack, with a sappy core, ripe tannins and a very, very long, reserved and transparent finish. This is pure magic. (Drink between 2022 - 2075)John Gilman | 96+ JGGood full red. Ineffable aromas and flavors of red berries, cocoa powder, smoked meat, faded rose and wild herbs, plus a whiff of game. Still a bit youthfully tough on the palate, but already communicates great grip and energy; comes across as deeper and more masculine than the 2011 version. Finishes surprisingly lush, with perfectly integrated tannins and outstanding subtle length.Vinous Media | 95+ VMThe 2010 Romanee St. Vivant comes across as rather shy. It shows lovely definition in its striking, well-delineated bouquet. There is an element of pure sensuality to the fruit that is very attractive. The RSV needs time to come out of its shell but is quite promising, even at this early stage. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPThe 2010 Romanée Saint-Vivant Grand Cru showed more evolved than I’d expect from a 2010, yet it was nevertheless beautiful, with a complex, layered, nuanced bouquet, medium-bodied richness, integrated tannins, and just a perfumed, forward, evolved style that was drinking incredibly well. Blind, I’d easily have guessed it was 10-15 years older. It’s a beautiful wine, although I’m not sure if this bottle is representative, so I’d recommend trying a bottle if you have a few cellared. Based off this showing, it should have no issues evolving for another decade, but I wouldn’t go much further.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThis was also relatively reduced and impossible to evaluate. The utterly seductive medium weight flavors possess a silky mouth feel and superb balance which in much the same fashion as the Beaux Monts is enhanced by the very fine grained tannins before culminating in an explosive, focused and strikingly long finish. This highly-sophisticated effort seems quite supple as the firm tannins are hidden by the abundant sap but make no mistake, this will require plenty of cellar time before it’s completely ready. Despite all of the considerable potential this is displaying this level of reduction is cause for concern and while it may pass, that is an assumption.Burghound | 94 BH

(Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru Red) A notably floral character adds breadth to the highly spiced and exceptionally fresh nose of cool red currant and plum. The rich, refined and admirably pure middle weight flavors are supported and shaped by ultra-fine tannins that coat the mouth on the incredibly long finish. Despite the underlying tension, this is essentially a wine of finesse and harmony that should also age for a very long time if desired. Brilliant and remarkably complex. (Drink starting 2025)Burghound | 96 BHGood full red. Vibrant perfume of raspberry, spices and minerals. Boasts outstanding dark berry intensity, with powerful crushed-stone minerality and a saline quality giving great energy and tension to the middle palate. Finishes with remarkable rising length, utterly suave tannins and superb lift. Like the Suchots, this is already wonderfully aromatic but is built for a decade or two of improvement in bottle.Vinous Media | 95+ VM(Romanée-St.-Vivant- Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux) The 2010 Romanée-St.-Vivant from Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux, not surprisingly, ash the best depth of fruit to stand up to the wood tannins here, and this wine is not bad at all. The nose is a complex and classy blend of cherries, orange peel, coffee, Vosne spices, lovely soil tones and plenty of smoky, luxe-styled new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and complex, with a good core of fruit, fine focus and very good length and grip on the chewy and only modestly over-oaked finish. This will have no trouble eventually absorbing its wood tannin, as it is only showing a touch of backend dryness at this time, and it will be a pretty good bottle at its apogee. But, should one expect more from an expensive example of Romanée-St.-Vivant in a great year? This will certainly not offer up even a modicum of value. (Drink between 2016-2040)John Gilman | 91+ JG

No such issue exists with the perfect 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Hommage a Jacques Perrin. I don’t know what more a wine could offer. Inky blue/purple, with an extraordinary nose of smoked duck, grilled steaks, Provencal herbs, blackberries, blueberries, kirsch, licorice and truffle, enormously massive, concentrated, full-bodied and built for 30-50 years of cellaring, this wine, which is dominated by its Mourvedre component, is a tour de force, a spectacular, world-class wine. It is going to require some patience, though, and seems to need 4-5 years of cellaring. It should again be almost ageless in its potential.As I said last year, the Perrin family is a large one indeed, with brothers Jean-Pierre and Francois sitting at the top of the hierarchy and their four sons, Mathieu, Pierre, Thomas and Marc increasingly taking charge of their negociant business and their extensive estates throughout Southern Rhone. Now controlling over 1200 acres, as well as having a network of contracts, this operation is the equivalent of a major Southern Rhone train operating at high speed. Moreover, they are doing some incredible work in all price ranges. Other 2011s that the Perrin boys have produced include the following wines, which were very good across the board, especially for 2011s. In particular, readers need to take a hard look at their estate in Vinsobres, which is making the finest wines of that appellation, and more recently, what they are doing in Gigondas with the estate they purchased there, Clos des Tourelles. These are special wines. There are now three cuvees of Gigondas from the Perrins - the Gigondas La Gille, the Gigondas Vieilles Vignes and the Gigondas Clos des Tourelles. All three merit serious attention. Tasting the 2010s, which were all set to go into bottle right after my visit, certainly shows that this vintage is impressive, although I’m not sure that Marc and Pierre Perrin haven’t done as good a job with their selections in 2011. Three cuvees of Gigondas look to all have outstanding potential and will probably be in bottle by the time this report is published.Robert Parker | 100 RPAnother perfect wine from this family is the 2010 Châteauneuf du Pape Hommage A Jacques Perrin, an incredibly concentrated, powerful, backward wine that’s just now starting to shed its baby fat and tannins. Massive notes of black and blue fruits, black truffle, ground pepper, and a beautiful sense of minerality all flow to a full-bodied, deep, awesome wine that has a huge mid-palate, riveting purity of fruit, and a finish that won’t quit. Incredibly classic in style and reminding me of a hypothetical mix of the 1989 and 1990, it can be drunk with incredible pleasure over the coming 30 years or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDBeginning to enter its second phase of life - there’s development here, but it’s still a bit dumb and inexpressive - don’t open it yet. Taking on some woodland notes, wet bark and turned earth. Very powerful on the palate, with perfectly ripe, massy tannins, incredible depth and length. Great freshness, huge power, such impact. It needs at least 15 years in bottle before opening, and 20 would be better. A monumental wine. Drinking Window 2025 - 2065.Decanter | 100 DEC(based on 70% mourvedre, with roughly 10% each of syrah, grenache and counoise): Bright ruby. A drop-dead, room-filling bouquet evokes black raspberry liqueur, incense, anise and lavender, with smoke and herb overtones. Sappy and penetrating, offering deeply pitched but lively dark berry and cherry flavors and an exotic touch of candied flowers. Fine-grained tannins come up with air and give grip to an endless, fruit- and mineral-dominated finish. This remarkable wine would be at the top of my Chateauneuf to-buy list this vintage if I had the resources to swim in such waters.Vinous Media | 97 VM

The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape flirts with perfection. A classic blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre and the rest Syrah, Vaccarese and Counoise, all aged in large foudres in Clos des Papes’s air-conditioned and humidity-controlled wine cellar, the wine boasts a dense purple color along with lots of gorgeously pure black raspberry, black currant and kirsch liqueur notes intermixed with notions of spring flowers, tapenade, licorice and spice box. This dense, full-bodied, powerful Chateauneuf is also remarkably fresh and well-delineated. It even exceeded the 2007 in natural alcohol, coming in at 15.9%. With an extraordinary texture and considerable tannin in the finish, it will benefit from 3-5 years of bottle age, and is built for 25-30 years of cellaring. Don’t miss it!This admirably run estate has essentially been practicing biodynamic farming for nearly 15 years, but they were not certified as biodynamic until 2011.Robert Parker | 99 RP(Clos Des Papes Chateauneuf Du Pape) Utterly classic Clos de Papes in every way, the 2010 Châteauneuf du Pape is still youthful and in its early adolescent phase, offering a beautiful mix of still pure, clean fruit and more peppery, spicy, leather, and complex Southern Rhône-like street market goodness. Rich and powerful on the palate, it’s flawlessly balanced, has ripe, polished tannins, and a monster of a finish. It’s just a beautiful, quintessential example of this First Growth-like estate in the South of France.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDLots of cocoa powder and coffee frame a massive block of dark plum, black currant and fig fruit, while massively endowed tannins stride from start to finish. Cassis, anise and Lapsang souchong tea notes hang in the background for now, but should emerge more with extended cellaring. The very dark, almost brooding finish is dominated by charcoal-coated grip, but the purity still wins out in the end. A very, very large wine. Best from 2017 through 2035. 5,600 cases made, 710 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 98 WSUndoubtedly one of the greatest Châteauneuf vintages of recent times, up there with the 1990 - and perhaps the 2016; time will tell. It’s deeply coloured still at seven years of age. Deep, dark and brooding on the nose, it’s starting to take on some balsamic and forest floor notes. The palate is very harmonious, powerful and assertive, with firm, structural tannins. This is still very fresh, sinewy and tightly wound - it’s not ready yet, but will be spectacular when it is. Drinking Window 2020 - 2040.Decanter | 98 DECInky ruby. Potent, intensely perfumed aromas on raspberry liqueur, cherry-cola, anise and smoky garrigue. Spicy and incisive, offering palate-staining red and dark berry flavors that become richer with air. Shows a superb balance of richness and vivacity, with dusty tannins giving grip to a long, spice- and floral-dominated finish. One of the top wines from the entire Rhone from this outstanding vintage.Vinous Media | 96 VM

Discreet wood sets off the ripe, dense and quite elegant black cherry aromas that are layered with notes of earth and floral nuances. This is also impressively complex with wonderfully rich, intense and well-structured big-bodied flavors that brim with an abundance of dry extract on the mouth coating, balanced, long and extremely serious finish. One difference between this and many youthful examples of the appellation is that there is almost no austerity present on the vibrant backend though that may change as the baby fat melts away. This too is absolutely terrific though note that plenty of patience will be required.Burghound | 95 BHGood full medium red. Ripe aromas of raspberry, plum, redcurrant, Oriental spices, milk chocolate and nutty oak. The powerful, voluminous palate boasts a lovely balance of raspberry fruit sweetness and saline minerality. Manages to be both muscular and gentle owing to its seamless texture and breadth. The suavely tannic, very long finish stimulates the salivary glands. I’d like to see all of these wines with a bit less obvious new oak, but maybe that’s quibbling.Vinous Media | 94 VM

(Romanée-St.-Vivant- Domaine Dujac) There is always very little Romanée-St.-Vivant in the Dujac cellars, and with the very short yields in 2010, this chronic shortage will be exacerbated. I cannot recall precisely how few barrels there were of the RSV this year, but there is not much of this magical elixir. The profoundly complex nose offers up scents of cherries, raspberries, coffee, exotic spice tones, a brilliant base of soil, a touch of pain epice, woodsmoke, gamebird and spicy new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, very pure and elegant, with kaleidoscopic minerality, refined tannins, tangy acids and stunning length and grip on the beautiful finish. (Drink between 2022-2075)John Gilman | 97+ JG(Domaine Dujac Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru Red) Like several of these 2010s, this is aromatically reserved to the point that only aggressive swirling liberates reluctant notes of spice, violets and a mix of perfumed red and black liqueur scents. The delicious, intense and beautifully detailed middle weight flavors possess a highly sophisticated mouth feel before terminating in a massively persistent, pure and harmonious finish. This seriously classy and exceptionally stylish effort is the epitome of power without weight, indeed it is textbook RSV. (Drink starting 2025)Burghound | 96 BHGood bright, full red. Aromas of crushed red berries, eucalyptus and blood orange, given even more punch by a suggestion of citrus peel. Pungent and penetrating in the mouth, with the crushed-grape character giving this very pure, focused wine an extremely primary quality today. With its rather powerful tannic spine, this is an infant. I would not be surprised if it needed 15 years to approach its plane of peak maturity.Vinous Media | 95+ VMThe 2010 Romanee Saint Vivant comes across as quite delicate, floral and feminine. Sweet red cherries, crushed flowers and mint wrap around the finish in this weightless, airy RSV. I have seen this wine grow significantly once it is in bottle, and expect that will be the case here as well. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040.Dujac fans will be thrilled with these 2010s. They are off the charts. The most difficult thing will no doubt be finding them. Jeremy Seysses reported yields down by 30-50% across the board, although his Morey blanc was down a whopping 90%. The poor flowering and wet summer resulted in loose bunches with a high amount of shot berries. The wines came in at 12 to 12.5% potential alcohol and were lightly chaptalized. Seysses used 80-90% stems for most of the wines, a little less for some, such as the Charmes and Combettes (around 70%) and more for the Chambertin and RSV (both 100%). Unfortunately, the 2010 Morey 1er Cru was too reduced to evaluate, so I will have to wait for another opportunity to taste the wine. I also tasted the entire range of 2009s. I will report on those wines in the April issue.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-96 RP

I first saw a sample of the 2010 Echézeaux from Maxime Cheurlin last November, when the wine had just finished up its malo, and it was a bit disjointed from the secondary fermentation, but showing outstanding potential. I was very happy to have the chance to revisit it again in March, where it was absolutely singing. Maxime’s family’s parcel lies in the lieu à dit of Les Cruots and the vines are in excess of eighty years of age. These venerable old vines have produced a superb wine that shows no difficulty standing up to its one hundred percent new wood this year, soaring from the glass in a blaze of plums, black cherries, dark soil tones, woodsmoke, a touch of game and a generous base of spicy new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very pure on that attack, with a rock solid core sappy fruit, tangy acids, ripe, well-integrated tannins and outstanding length and grip on the focused and nascently complex finish. This is a classic example of Echézeaux in the making, with the vintage’s beautiful transparency very much in evidence. A prodigious first vintage of Echézeaux. (Drink between 2022 - 2060)John Gilman | 93+ JG

A monumental effort meriting a perfect score, the super-rich 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes is a 4,000-bottle blend of 50% Grenache, 40% Mourvedre and 10% Syrah from 55- to 105-year-old vines and was aged for 18 months in small oak. The wine offers majestic blackberry and cassis fruit intermixed with kirsch, licorice and subtle Provencal herbs in the background. It is akin to chewing meat in the mouth given its viscosity and thickness. This utterly amazing wine comes close to being over the top, but it pulls back just in time. A massive Chateauneuf du Pape (even for a 2010), it needs 5-6 years of cellaring and should age effortlessly for 25-30 years. Bravo!With impressive holdings in the northern sector of Chateauneuf du Pape as well as an ever expanding, high quality negociant business, brothers Christophe and Sebastian Jaume have taken this estate, established in 1826, to new heights. The estate wines, which are sold under the Domaine Grand Veneur label, are classic, quasi-modern-styled Chateauneuf du Papes that represent brilliant examples of their impeccable viticulture and winemaking. Interestingly, all three cuvees of Chateauneuf du Pape were produced in 2011. That decision appears to be justified by the quality of what I tasted as well as their potential for extended maturity beyond a decade. As for the 2010s, the Alain Jaume offerings and the Domaine Grand Veneur Cotes du Rhone cuvees were all reviewed in my report on the wines of Kysela Pere et Fils in Issue #201. The 2010 Domaine Grand Veneur estate wines, especially the Chateauneuf du Papes, are brilliant.Robert Parker | 100 RPI absolutely loved this wine on release (I rated it 98+) and it certainly didn’t disappoint on this occasion. Made from a blend of 50% Grenache, 40% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah that spent 18 months in mostly new barrels, this tour de force gives up killer notes of blackcurrants, scorched earth, wood smoke, cured meats and wild herbs. Deep, rich and concentrated, yet opulent and expansive, it’s just now starting to round the corner and is at the early stages of maturity. It will keep for another 15+ years.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDOpaque purple. Deeply pitched aromas of dark berry liqueur, cherry-cola, lavender and vanilla, with a spicy topnote. Fleshy, palate-staining blueberry and cassis flavors are lifted by juicy acidity and pick up a smoky quality with air. Supple and expansive on the endless finish, which strongly echoes the dark fruit and vanilla notes.Vinous Media | 95 VMRipe and packed, but well-focused, with a broad beam of linzer torte and boysenberry fruit backed by graphite, violet and pastis notes. Picks up plenty of muscle and toasted spice on the finish, showing lots of latent depth in reserve. Very solid. Best from 2014 through 2024. 250 cases made, 40 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

This is also notably floral in character with a panoply of spice elements that add both depth and breadth to the cool cherry, raspberry and red currant aromas. As was the case with the Beaux Monts there is a spicy inner mouth perfume to the delicious and classy middle weight flavors that are shaped by sophisticated and very fine tannins, all wrapped in a mouth coating, focused and seriously persistent finish. A classic RSV. (Drink starting 2022)Burghound | 95 BHGood full, deep red. Sexy nose combines dried currant, cocoa powder, coffee, mocha, pepper and flowers; conveys a strong impression of terroir . Highly concentrated and sweet, with the red fruit and roast coffee flavors conveying a compellingly sappy quality. The powerful building finish offers serious tannic spine and lovely floral lift. The crop level for these old vines (the vineyard was originally planted in 1922 and the vines average 55 to 60 years of age) is always around 30 hectoliters per hectare, according to Alain Meunier.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The 2010 Hermitage Ex Voto continues to top out on my scale. This extraordinary Hermitage has more minerality and delineation than the 2009, as well as overflowing aromas and flavors of creme de cassis, jammy blackberries, violets, graphite and wood smoke. Massively concentrated, full-bodied, decadent, layered and sexy, it needs short-term cellaring but should be just about immortal in the cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPThis has lavish range, with intense steeped plum, anise, pain d’épices, singed apple wood and fruitcake notes layered together, framed by smoldering charcoal and sweet tobacco accents and riveted to a tarry spine. Expands like a fractal in the glass to display enormous depth and length. Features mouthwatering cut from start to finish despite the heft. An extremely impressive wine that will need some time to stretch out fully. Best from 2018 through 2040. 600 cases made, 120 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 98 WSInky purple. A wild, highly perfumed bouquet evokes ripe black and blue fruits, incense, olive paste and smoky minerals. Sweet, penetrating and pure, offering palate-staining boysenberry and cassis flavors and suggestions of candied licorice and fruitcake. Densely packed yet lively, finishing with remarkable power and smooth tannins that add shape and grip.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Schedule to be bottled next week (I suspect it will be in bottle by the time you read this), the 2010 Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins is a sensational effort. Deeper, richer and more concentrated than the Marie Beurrier, it reveals an unusually inky ruby/purple color to go with overflowing notes of kirsch liqueur, roasted meats, crushed flowers, garrigue and just about every other Provençal spice you could name. Full-bodied, beautifully concentrated, layered and a blockbuster-styled effort, it should surpass the 2007 and possibly rival the 1990. This is a tour de force in Châteauneuf du Pape!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97-99 RPThis is a big wine, driving with strong acidity and tannins that provide a firm, dry base. This is taking on some earthy, spicy character with alcohol that is a touch high. Still needs time. Leave until at least 2022.Decanter | 96 DECSchedule to be bottled next week (I suspect it will be in bottle by the time you read this), the 2010 Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins is a sensational effort. Deeper, richer and more concentrated than the Marie Beurrier, it reveals an unusually inky ruby/purple color to go with overflowing notes of kirsch liqueur, roasted meats, crushed flowers, garrigue and just about every other Provençal spice you could name. Full-bodied, beautifully concentrated, layered and a blockbuster-styled effort, it should surpass the 2007 and possibly rival the 1990. This is a tour de force in Châteauneuf du Pape!Vinous Media | 95 VM

The 2010 Chambertin is arguably the most complete of the Trapet Grand Crus. The Chambertin is distinguished for its seamless, generous fruit and totally inviting personality. Crushed flowers, sweet spices and licorice are some of the many notes that develop in the glass, adding complexity and depth to the expansive, creamy finish. The 2010 Chambertin was stunning a year ago, it is stunning today and my impression is it will always be magnificent, even if it is likely to go through a stubborn period somewhere along the way. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2045.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RPJean-Louis Trapet’s 2010 Chambertin is another stunning yardstick of this great vintage. The cool, reserved and utterly complex nose delivers a superb mélange of cherries, red plums, woodsmoke, mustard seed, brilliantly complex soil tones, coffee and a discreet base of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very pure on the attack, with a reserved profile, a rock solid core of sappy fruit, ripe tannins, bright acids, flawless balance and laser-like focus on the hugely intense, seamless and very soil-driven finish. Just a brilliant bottle of Chambertin in the making. (Drink between 2025 - 2100)John Gilman | 97+ JGBright, moderately saturated medium red. Alluring, nuanced, soil-driven scents of raspberry, smoke, mocha, coffee, licorice, cinders and underbrush; at once more expressive, more complex and more harmonious than the 2012. Again, wonderfully sweet in the mouth as well as impressively dense for the vintage, showing a stronger element of salinity than the 2012. Intense dark berry, licorice, mineral and coffee flavors are a bit more reticent than the nose would suggest but this wonderfully silky, salty, soil-driven wine boasts near-perfect balance and a very long, subtle, rising finish that leaves behind a perfume of dried flowers and white pepper. Classically dry on the finish, with the tannins perhaps a touch less mellow in the early going than those of the 2012. (13% alcohol, 3.5 pH; 4.1 g/l acidity; 31 hectoliters per hectare; harvested on September 26; vinified with 50% whole clusters)Vinous Media | 96 VMA reticent, even shy but highly complex nose features intensely floral aromas of pure wild red berry fruit, wet stone, underbrush and a whiff of the sauvage. This is a big and powerful wine which makes for an interesting contrast with the silky palate impression of the well-muscled and large-scaled flavors that are underpinned by very ripe tannins and that lovely sense of tension on the wonderfully energetic and persistent finish. This should age well for years to come, though once again, note well that this will require ample bottle age before it can deliver all of its full, and considerable, potential. In sum, this is a stunningly good Chambertin.Burghound | 96 BH

Absolutely remarkable is the 100% destemmed 2010 Cote Rotie Lancement Cote Blonde which sees 50% new oak barrels (175-200 cases produced). It offers spectacular aromas of bacon fat, tapenade, cassis, raspberry jam, graphite, subtle smoke and a hint of acacia flowers. Dense, opulent and full-bodied with decent acidity and sweet, velvety tannin, this stunning wine may merit a perfect score when released.Ogier's wines just keep getting better and better, so if you haven't yet jumped on the Ogier bandwagon, it's time to do so. Michel Ogier, and more recently his son, Stephane, are the leading craftsmen in terms of wines from the steep hillsides north of the old Roman town of Vienne. These are still entitled to only a VDP designation, but current vintages are the finest he has yet produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPInky ruby. Powerful, expansive aromas of raspberry liqueur, Asian spices, sandalwood and smoky minerals, with an exotic floral nuance that gains power with air. Deeply concentrated but lively, offering palate-staining red fruit and floral pastille flavors and a strong spicy quality. Fine-grained tannins add grip to an incredibly long, sappy and penetrating finish, which clings with remarkable tenacity. One of the great wines of the Rhone from this outstanding vintage.Vinous Media | 97 VMShows stunning depth and richness, with loads of velvety tannins carrying waves of blackberry, fig and dark plum confiture flavors. The long finish cruises throughout, with charcoal, black tea and roasted alder notes all deftly inlaid. An echo of iron lingers. Best from 2017 through 2035. 20 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WS

(Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Richebourg Grand Cru Red) An intensely floral and gloriously spicy nose of ripe and highly complex black cherry liqueur and rose petal aromas leads to impressively dense and brooding large-scaled flavors that possess fantastic depth and positively stunning length. I have experience with almost every Mongeard Richebourg since the first vintage in 1984 and I have never seen one with more potential than this one though not surprisingly, patience will be needed. In a word, brilliant. (Drink starting 2030)Burghound | 94-96 BH(Richebourg- Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret) The 2010 Richebourg just noses out the Grands Echézeaux this year as the best wine in the cellar, but, at least at this early stage, this is a race that is likely to go right down to the wire for king of the cellar. The stunning and utterly refined nose soars from the glass in a blend of red and black cherries, black plums, dark chocolate, fresh herb tones, complex soil nuances, woodsmoke and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very pure, with a fine sense of reserve, a rock solid core, brilliant transparency (particularly for Richebourg), ripe tannins, tangy acids and outstanding length and grip on the utterly refined finish. A beautiful, beautiful wine. (Drink between 2025-2100)John Gilman | 96+ JG

A wine that might rival the 2001 when all is said and done, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de La Reine des Bois is an incredible effort that does everything right. Possessing a voluptuous, decadent and super-rich profile, it stays graceful and perfectly balanced, with beautiful freshness, a stacked mid-palate and a blockbuster finish. Opening up in the glass, with copious blackberry, cassis, graphite, violets and spring flower-like nuances, it needs another 2-3 years of bottle age, and will have upward of three decades of overall longevity.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 99 RPA thrilling Châteauneuf-du-Pape any way you look at it, Domaine de la Mordorée’s 2010 Cuvée de la Reine des Bois is up there with the best of the vintage and is most similar, in my mind, to the estate’s ’05 with its overall elegant, yet incredibly concentrated feel. A completely destemmed blend of 80% Grenache and the rest a mix of Mourvedre, Syrah, Counoise, and Vaccarese that was aged mostly in tank, yet with 30% in barrel, it delivers a pure and intense array of blackberry liqueur, licorice, toasted spice, wild flowers, truffle, and hints of leather on the nose. Clean, fresh, and detailed, with a full-bodied, dense, and stunningly concentrated palate, this nevertheless remains overall elegant, beautifully textured, and restrained, with masses of ripe tannin emerging on the finish. As with most 2010s, this really needs air to show at its best, and ideally should be given 5-7 years of bottle age. It will drink well for two decades or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDOpaque ruby. Sexy, intensely perfumed bouquet presents candied dark fruits, spices and potpourri, with bright minerality adding lift. Deeply pitched but impressively energetic, offering sweet blueberry and cassis flavors and a jolt of cracked pepper. The floral and spice notes come back on the potent finish, which shows harmonious tannins and outstanding persistence. By smoothly playing richness off vivacity it's almost shockingly approachable now, not that I'd be touching mine for at least another five years or so.Vinous Media | 95 VMThe Delorme family's luxury cuvée is aged in a fair bit of small oak, which imparts a plush texture and cedary overtones to the wine. It's full-bodied and powerful, loaded with dark cherry fruit and baking spices that linger on the finish. Drink now–2020 or so.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

The three component parts of the 2010 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape show it to be a deeply colored vintage with terrific fruit intensity of licorice, raspberries and sweet, jammy cherries. Medium to full-bodied and ripe with 15+% natural alcohol and sweet, soft tannins, this ethereal 2010 is reminiscent of the 2005 although the tannins in the 2010 are more silky.(Not yet released)One of the world’s most mysterious estates is Chateau Rayas. This small 30-acre estate is owned by the Reynaud family, which dates back to the late 19th century,. The estate has always had an image of secrecy and seclusion. Following the death of Jacques Reynaud in 1997, his nephew, Emmanuel took over, and he continues to produce wines that go from strength to strength. A cool climate property in a hot zone, Rayas is tucked away in a forest with its vineyards basically one parcel of sandy soil. Emmanuel Reynaud, who is also the proprietor of the outstanding Vacqueyras estate called Domaine des Tours, has the same eccentric idiosyncracies as his uncle. It is not as difficult to get an appointment to visit Rayas as many people think, and I highly recommend it as it is always a fascinating place to visit. After 25 years, I never cease to be amazed by what emerges from these decrepit, old, haphazard cellars that look like a biohazard room in a video game. They don’t win the top prize for the dirtiest cellars in Chateauneuf du Pape (that goes to Henri Bonneau), but Rayas is a close second. Modern-day oenology graduates would be horrified by -working conditions,- but the magic elixirs to emerge from these ancient barrels, demi-muids and foudres are wondrous. On this trip, I tasted through the component parts of the 2010s, another top vintage for Rayas. Production was tiny, and the harvest was extremely late. In fact, Emmanuel Reynaud told me that 2011 would be at least ten days in advance of 2010. The 2009s, which have all been bottled, have turned out to be spectacular, and I tend to think the 2009 Rayas could turn out to be the greatest wine made by Emmanuel, even eclipsing the 2007.Robert Parker | 94-97 RPVivid ruby. An explosively perfumed bouquet displays red and dark berry preserves, potpourri, licorice and smoky minerals. Broad and fleshy, offering deeply concentrated black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and a strong note of floral pastilles. Chewy tannins give grip to a powerful, alluringly sweet, endless finish. Shows as much density as I can recall from a young Rayas and is clearly built for the long haul.Vinous Media | 96+ VM

Menthol and soft wood nuances frame the restrained but spicy aromas of black fruit and high-toned floral scents. There is good richness to the relatively full-bodied generous flavors that possess a silky texture, all wrapped in a lightly structured and impressively persistent finish. There is a bit of wood on the finish that offers only moderate complexity at present though my score assumes that more will develop over the next 3 to 5 years. As was the case when I originally reviewed this ultra-elegant effort, there is noticeable gas on the finish so if you’re going to try a bottle young I would advise decanting it first.Burghound | 92 BHSuchots can also often be quite black fruity in personality, but this is not the case with the 2011 Hudelot version, which offers up a fine bouquet of cherries, blood orange, Vosne spice, fresh herb tones, fine soil nuances and a bit of cedary wood. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and shows off lovely mid-palate depth, with ripe tannins, bright acids and excellent grip and focus on the long and dancing finish. A very elegant and intensely flavored Suchots. (Drink between 2021 - 2050)John Gilman | 92+ JG(picked at 13.1% potential alcohol): Medium red with an amber edge. Highly aromatic nose combines strawberry, musky brown spices, dried flowers and cinnamon. Juicy and penetrating in the mouth, with a bit of unabsorbed CO2 accentuating the tartness of the cranberry, pomegranate and soil flavors. Very savory wine, with enough stuffing and flavor intensity to maintain its balance. Finishes with firm tannins and very good tangy length.Vinous Media | 90 VM

Bright medium red. Expressive nose melds raspberry, cherry, flowers, spices and a hint of smoky game. More energetic than the Suchots, offering a distinctly sappy impression to the concentrated flavors of crushed red berries and minerals. Wonderfully strong and sweet in the middle palate, and long and fresh on the back end, closing with noble tannins and enticing floral lift. This fruit was totally destemmed but there’s no shortage of vibrancy here.Vinous Media | 93 VMThis is also overtly spicy with notes of exotic tea, sandalwood, anise and clove adding considerable interest to the cassis and black pinot fruit nose that is trimmed in just enough wood to notice. The big, rich and impressively concentrated medium weight flavors display an abundance of dry extract levels that partially disguise the substantial muscularity of the dazzlingly complex, powerful and lengthy finish. The Suchots is very good but there is another dimension of depth present here.Burghound | 93 BHDomaine Hudelot-Noëllat’s Malconsorts is always a lovely, lovely wine and it is a pity that there is not more of it in the cellar (sadly, in this vintage there are only two barrels). The 2011 is a classic in the making, jumping from the glass in a beautiful and sappy nose of cherries, raspberries, blood orange, gamebirds, great minerality, roses and cedar. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, pure and wonderfully transparent, with a sappy core of fruit, fine-grained tannins and a very long, tangy finish. A superb example of this great premier cru. (Drink between 2022 - 2050)John Gilman | 93+ JG

(Clos St. Denis- Domaine Dujac) I have a fair bit of Dujac Clos St. Denis in my cellar, but I cannot recall any previous vintage as promising as the 2011 showed at the time of my visit in November. This is one of the most elegant of all the grand crus in the Côte de Nuits and this has obviously dovetailed brilliantly with the style of the 2011 vintage. The stunning nose soars from the glass in a glorious mélange of cherries, blood orange, gamebirds, cinnamon, roses, beautiful minerality, cocoa, peonies and a discreet base of spicy wood. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and absolutely ethereal in style, with great mid-palate depth and nascent complexity, laser-like focus, suave tannins and magical grip and focus on the very, very long and very transparent finish. This beautiful wine already dances across the palate and it will be a legend in the years to come! (Drink between 2022-2065)John Gilman | 96 JGA model of elegance and finesse, the 2011 Clos St. Denis presents a hugely attractive fabric laced with orange peel, rose petals and sweet spices. The 2011 is an especially floral, lifted Clos St. Denis endowed with terrific energy and focus, while the mid-weight structure suggests it will drink well relatively early.Vinous Media | 95 VMDeep, profound wine with dark berries, cinnamon and spices. Velvety tannins and long finish. Terroir-driven, very intense flavours, amazing depth. Drinking Window 2018 - 2028.Decanter | 94 DEC(Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis Grand Cru Red) Here too an adroit application of wood serves as a discreet foil for the more obvious floral aromas that enjoy added scope from the presence of pure, spicy and highly complex red and dark berry scents. There is an abundance of mouth coating extract that imparts a suave, even lush character to the very rich medium-bodied flavors that are an exercise in finesse and refinement while offering controlled power and outstanding length. A classic Clos St. Denis of class and grace. (Drink starting 2026)Burghound | 93 BHThe 2011 Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru is missing a little cohesion on the nose, rather loose-knit with broody, stony red berry fruit. Fortunately, it begins to come together with rigorous swirling of the glass and musters much better focus. The palate is medium-bodied with quite chalky tannins on the entry. There is a fine core of red cherries, pomegranate and attractive saline notes toward the masculine finish. It is more approachable than other vintages that I have tasted at this stage, but it deserves three or four years in bottle because there is a lot of potential here. Drink 2015-2025.I have been visiting Jeremy and Alec Seysses at Domaine Dujac for several years now, and it is always one of my favorite ports of call. Alec, looking surprisingly chipper for a new dad had taken time off nappy duty to guide me through the 2011s this year. I have to confess that I was concerned by the conspicuous nature of the new oak on both their negociant label wines and the entry Village Crus. I felt that 35% new oak tended to overwhelm the fruit and terroir and occasionally impart drying finishes, which is why my scores are parsimonious here. As I tasted through the range toward the flock of Grand Crus the oak seemed better assimilated, although I would still maintain that the wine is of such quality that the present level of oak risks being superfluous to requirements. All the negociant label wines were bottled before Christmas.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 92 RP-NM

I really love the 2012 Suchots from Domaine Hudelot, as the overtly red fruity character of this wine this year is very rare for this terroir and earmarks a very special vintage of the wine. The gorgeous nose offers up scents of cherries, raspberries, a touch of blood orange, Vosne spices, a beautiful base of minerality, woodsmoke and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very transparent, with a sappy core of fruit, fine-grained tannins and a very, very long, soil-driven and tangy finish. Superb juice. (Drink between 2020 - 2050)John Gilman | 93+ JGThe 2012 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Suchots comes from a 0.45-hectare holding planted back in 1920. It has a slightly muted nose out of barrel, but it unfurls revealing earthy, mossy scents with aeration. The palate is clean and fresh, but somehow foursquare and a little conservative compared to some of the domaine’s other premier crus. You get the impression that this Les Suchots is hiding something up its sleeve, whereas this vineyard is habitually one of the most expressive in its youth.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPBright medium red. Ripe, alluring aromas and flavors of wild strawberry, raspberry and earth. Sweet, fine-grained and enveloping, showing lovely energy and density and still holding its fruit in reserve. Finishes fresh and firm-edged, with full, fine-grained tannins and excellent length.Vinous Media | 91 VMA spicy and notably ripe nose features aromas of dark pinot fruit, red currant, blood orange and an abundance of spice elements that include anise and sandalwood. There is an elegant mouth feel to the luscious and generously proportioned middle weight flavors that possess a velvety texture, all wrapped in a beautifully complex finish. If there is a concern though it’s that this very firmly structured effort feels as though it may turn secondary relatively early in its evolution. As such I underscore my concern with a question mark because it will certainly require more than 8 years of bottle age to resolve the tannins yet the fruit may no longer be there.Burghound | 90 BH

The wine of the vintage is the Perrin’s 2012 Châteauneuf du Pape Hommage A Jacques Perrin, and it will most likely merit a perfect rating in another couple of years. Full-bodied, massive and layered on the palate, with awesome purity and freshness, it delivers incredible aromatics of beef blood, truffle, graphite, iron and black and blue fruits. Given all of the fruit and texture, you almost have to hunt for the structure here, but trust me, it’s there. The tasting at Beaucastel took place a 9 a.m., and even then, this is one wine I found impossible to spit. It’s a tour de force that will have 3-4 decades of life.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 99 RPThe wine of the vintage is the Perrins’ 2012 Châteauneuf du Pape Hommage A Jacques Perrin, which has a classic, sexy, accessible style yet is also going to age beautifully. Massive amounts of smoked black fruits, ground pepper, iodine, truffle, and bloody meat all emerge from this inky colored behemoth. With full body, building tannins, no hard edges, and a rock star of a finish, it’s primary and youthful, but incredible. Ideally, it would be given another 4-5 years of bottle age and will keep for another 3 decades or more. It’s an awesome wine!Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDSpice, lift and zest - the hallmarks of the vintage are immediately apparent on the nose. Some woody, roasted spices are starting to take root now, along with damsons, and crushed damson stones. Rounded, rich and plush on the palate, all very well integrated, such delicious, intense juice. The alcohol is high but it gives the wine its foundation this year - a jolly, red-cheeked vintage built around alcohol, but not dominated by it. Delicious now, will be even better later. Drinking Window 2020 - 2036Decanter | 99 DECLots of spices such as cloves and black pepper. Some grilled meat as well. Complex undertones of mushrooms. Full-bodied, complex and refined yet very open now with cherry, sweet and ripe fruit and a balanced finish. Excellent acidity and length. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSDark purple. Powerful aromas of cherry liqueur, licorice pastille and pungent flowers, with exotic Indian spice and mocha overtones. Dense, sweet and broad, offering intense black and blue fruit preserve, violet and spicecake flavors enlivened by juicy acidity. Fine-grained tannins build slowly through the clinging, appealingly sweet finish, which shows outstanding clarity and persistence and lingering florality. One of the standouts of the vintage and surprisingly approachable for this bottling, although drinking it before its tenth birthday would seem like a shame to me.Vinous Media | 96 VMSerious, with dark fig, black currant and blackberry confiture notes forming a large-scale core, while licorice snap, Turkish coffee and pastis details lend an expansive feel. The long, dense finish has a brooding personality now, with a warm cast-iron note echoing. Should be a stunner when it reaches its peak. Best from 2019 through 2032. 500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS