Red Wines

wines

Bottled yesterday. Pale colour, elegant and stylish, then keeps going, this isa Folatières of elegance more than weight, with a classy and nuanced white fruit. Allow for this to develop more body as it grows up in bottle. Drink from 2028-2037. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 94 JMThere is a vague whiff of the exotic present on the elegant nose that offers up essence of pear, passion fruit and discreet floral wisps. The middleweight flavors are finer though not as concentrated while displaying very good length on the, stone and bitter lemon-inflected bone-dry finale.Burghound | 91 BH

Grandfather Fernand Coffinet, who planted the almond tree on the edge of this plot, died at the start of the year, so this wine is something of a homage to him. Clear bright pale colour. The nose shows the muscle in a harmonious way. Almost lean at the front then with a growing flesh behind. Huge potential here, less charming than Dent de Chien but a fabulous finish as well, stretching out even further than does the Dent de Chien. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 95-97 JM

This great Bonnes Mares starts cool and restrained, but expands rapidly as it moves over the palate, with delicate, spicy almond and cream character. Mouth-filling and generous yet subtle and light-footed, this is at the upper limit of medium-bodied. Then a huge wave of salty minerality comes through at the finish to give the wine a whole extra dimension and making this an almost overwhelming expression of beauty. Drinkable now.James Suckling | 98 JSIn bottle. Made as three cuvees, then assembled. A rich mid purple with a deliciously heady bouquet, the sumptuous side of dark raspberry, perfumed yet precise, purple fruit with some redder layers beneath, a little white pepper spice, multiple layers of fruit, very engaging with just a very slight youthful bitterness. Irreproachable. Drink from 2032-2045. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 97 JMAnother cuvée that was also in bottle when I visited, the 2022 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with aromas of cherries and raspberries mingled with exotic notes and sweet forest floor. Medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy, it’s concentrated and textural, with nicely integrated tannins, lively acids and a long, saline, rose-inflected finish. Its more sensual style is a welcome evolution.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPAn even spicier and more floral-suffused nose is comprised mostly by blue pinot fruit and discreet earth wisps. The succulent, refined and vibrant medium-bodied flavors aren’t especially concentrated though they do possess impressive power on the beautifully long and equally well-balanced finale. This is a wine that is certainly built to repay extended keeping but it’s not so compact that it couldn’t be reasonably approached after only 7-ish years.Burghound | 94 BHThe 2022 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru had been bottled in October 2023, just before my visit at the Domaine. It has a compact nose: mainly black cherries and crushed strawberry fruit, well-defined if maybe missing the amplitude of other Bonnes-Mares that I have tasted. The medium-bodied palate has a slightly creamy-textured opening, sweet blackberry and raspberry and touches of dark chocolate and mocha. There’s fine depth on the finish with light grip. Some wood tannins mark the finish and slightly occlude the fruit expression here.Vinous Media | 90 VM

A great Burgundian legend is back in very top form. Enveloping nose of red fruit, red roses and wildflowers. Anything but dramatic, this stuns you with its incredible finesse and extraordinary textural complexity. On the upper edge of medium-bodied, also thanks to the fabulously fine tannins that interlock perfectly with the intense minerality to drive the super-long finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.James Suckling | 99 JSThis is aromatically quite similar to the 1er except that it is notably more restrained and requires considerable swirling to coax the nose to reveal its nuances. On the palate though there is noticeably more size, weight and mid-palate density thanks to the abundant sap that imparts a highly seductive mouthfeel while also buffering the firmer, though just as fine, tannic structure shaping the hugely long, youthfully austere and decidedly powerful finish that is akin to rolling tiny rocks around the mouth. This is also positively brilliant with the development potential to match.Burghound | 96 BHAs mentioned in the introduction, there are seven separate parcellaire cuvées of Musigny which will be blended. We tried four of them, representing different sectors. Les Petits Musigny (north): An even purple, succulent red fruit. Fresh raspberry and strawberry, touch of liquorice, very even, fair acidity, soft tannins. Les 13 ouvrees: Stonier than north Musigny. A touch darker in colour and definitely a richer bouquet, more headily floral. More clearly the weight of Musigny, but also shows as quite a bit riper. Grand Musigny Haut: A glowing mid purple. A lovely tensile strength, not so evidently ripe, but correctly so, red to dark red in fruit. Good acidity, and fairly complete. Grand Musigny Bas: Glowing purple perhaps fractionally deeper than the upper part. The nose is less extrovert but clearly has superb class and a poised density. The sense of completeness of GM Haut but noticeably more intense through the mid palate. The fruit is a fraction riper, perfectly so, with a few suggestions of dark raspberry in the fruit. Very persistent indeed and a freshness to the finish, enough to make a major wine. I don’t feel it correct to award five stars until I have seen the full blended wine, preferably in bottle, but I certainly don’t rule that out. Drink from 2035-2050. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 95-100 JMThe 2022 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is very attractive, bursting with aromas of cherries, raspberries, blood orange, rose petals and vine smoke. Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, it’s layered and fleshy, with a deep and seamless core of fruit that conceals powdery structuring tannins, concluding with a broad, perfumed finish. If this fulfills all its promise in bottle, it may make my score look conservative.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96 RP

Fresh bright purple. What a radiant nose, all the heady joy of Vosne, such stylish bright ripe cherry fruit with some mixed red berries behind. Seamless texture and very long. Sheer class. Tasted Dec 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMContaining 20% whole bunches, the 2022 Vosne-Romanée Village has a tightly wound and "correct" bouquet. It lets the Morey-Saint-Denis Village take the limelight at the moment, red and black fruit combined, a little more sous-bois than expected. The palate is medium-bodied with a core of lively, peppery red berry fruit, blood orange and a pinch of white pepper on the finish. A step up from the 2021, this will give a decade’s drinking pleasure.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMAn overtly spicy nose is comprised by darker fruit that includes plum and black cherry along with violet and sandalwood hints. There is a really lovely texture to the caressing but punchy middleweight flavors that deliver equally good length on the youthfully austere and even more refined finale. This too is exceptionally good for its level.Burghound | 89-92 BH

Very complex aromas of pears, persimmons, honey and cooked apples. Mineral undertones. Always subtle and multidimensional. Full-bodied with a tight and dense middle palate that gives a superb mouthfeel. It’s lively and flavorful at the end but in a reserved way. Just a hint of bitter lemon and lilac. I really want to drink this, but give it three or four years to reach the right place.James Suckling | 99 JSBased on 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon that spent nine months in barrel, the 2022 Domaine De Chevalier Blanc is a brilliant white revealing a vivid gold hue as well as bright citrus, crushed stone, mint, and honeysuckle-driven nuances. Pure, focused, and elegant, it has remarkable balance, integrated acidity, medium to full body, and a beautifully layered texture. It should evolve beautifully for 20+ years.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThis is a magnificent white wine, balancing the herbal element of Sauvignon Blanc with the rich Sémillon in a melange that promises considerable aging. Produced in small quantities on the Domaine de Chevalier vineyard it is one of the legendary white wines of Bordeaux. Drink from 2027. Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEThe 2022 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc has turned out brilliantly in bottle, wafting from the glass with aromas of pear, jasmine, white flowers, spring blossoms and spices. Medium to full-bodied, layered and enveloping, it’s charming and sappy with a dense structure, bright acids, gastronomic bitterness and a long, saline and mouthwatering finish. Confirming my expectations, this blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Sémillon is one of the best white wines of the vintage. It should gain harmony with age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThis is lovely from the get-go, delivering a sensation of shimmering, wet pebbles, plus fresh thyme, oyster shell, quinine and Key lime zest notes that streak and glide at the same time. The long, unadorned finish hums like a tuning fork. Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Drink now through 2035. 2,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSPineapple, honey, lemon, peach, lime - a lovely expression on the nose, fresh and fragrant, open and alive. Great depth of flavour and purity. Gorgeous depth and body, really fills the mouth with some bitterness that gives a nice counter to the acidity. This widens and expands and then elongates and makes your mouth water in just the right places. This is fantastic, moreish and really complete. Feels retrained and just the right amount of each aspect. Great to drink now and age.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThe 2022 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc offers more complexity on the nose than the L’Esprit, with scents of yellow fruit, melon and lime. The palate is well balanced with texture, notes of peach skin, pear and a dash of stem ginger, leading to a brisk harmonious finish. Although it does not rank among the best recent vintages due to the limitations of the growing season, this is still a capable Domaine de Chevalier Blanc.Vinous Media | 93 VMThis is a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon, and the élevage was in close to 40% new oak, for between 16 and 18 months. I like the powdery substance and intensity evident on the nose here, with crushed gravel and citrus fruits, lemon peel, white chocolate and waxy smoke, all delivered with a sense of phenolic maturity. This latter element pervades the palate, which presents lemon meringue and pastry notes, wrapped up with touches of tobacco oak, with a firm central spindle of oak and rather confident acidity which integrates with this delicately bitter grip. Great energy on the finish, with a delineated finish too, the length bitter and acid-washed. This is a very stylish interpretation of the vintage, with maturity and vivacity, and it will develop well. Tasted twice. The alcohol on the label is 13.5%.The Wine Independent | 92 TWI

A stunning wine marked by finesse and delicacy. This is ethereal but also deep, with moss and mineral aromas followed by delicate yet naturally racy sweet berries, decadent roses, spices and forest floor. Almost full-bodied for a pinot, but this is much more about texture than anything else. Tense, round and elastic, with a ripe but minerally finish that expands at the end and goes on and on. Real depth in an airy, super-delicate way. 80% whole bunches and 20% new oak barrels. So good to drink now, but this is age-worthy and is likely to morph into something stunning in a decade.James Suckling | 99 JS Though well-marked by new oak for now, this red features ripe cherry, blackberry, violet, sandalwood and mineral aromas and flavors. Silky and elegant, yet there’s underlying intensity and power. Harmonious in its youth, with its full potential and pedigree on display on the long, detailed aftertaste. Best from 2029 through 2050. 422 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 98 WSThe 2022 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is a blend of 11 different cuvées and includes, for the first time, the plot of "30 Rangs". This vintage includes 80% whole bunches, and like La Richemoine, it is deftly subsumed on the nose, which blossoms with vivacious red berry fruit, forest floor, white truffle, and light autumn leaf scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a svelte Clos des Lambrays with a slightly chalky, mineral-rich finish. Very tender and complex, this is undoubtedly a great wine with a long-term future.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMThe 2022 Clos des Lambrays contains 80% whole bunches (100% in the very old vines, a lower proportion elsewhere). A fine even deep ruby purple. The bouquet is backward with still a suggested intensity of fruit that can easily cope with the stems. Beautifully suave with an enveloping dark red fruit, a very graceful finish on silky, refined tannins, and we don’t often say silky for Morey St Denis. They are caressing, according to Jacques. The floral touch works throughout, beautifully long and sensual. Drink from 2032. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 96-98 JMProduced from two large parcels of differing vine ages - one that is approximately two-thirds of the blend and is now 50+ years of age and a second, smaller group of vines that are approximately 25+ years of age; made with 80% whole clusters and 80% new wood.Burghound | 93-96 BH

25% whole bunch vinification. Still in barrel. A rich saturated purple. The fruit swarms across the palate, yet with a fine sense of balance. Fine grained tannins, not too wild a style of Bonnes Mares, and indeed the holding is on the white soil which explains the elegance. Drink from 2032-2040. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 94-96 JMThe 2022 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet with black cherries, wild strawberries and iris flower, more intense than the 2023. Taut and focused, the palate is medium-bodied with a fresh entry, quite linear for a Bonnes-Mares, with a bright, vivacious finish. Very fine.Vinous Media | 93 VMHere the grudging nose is even spicier with a slightly more deeply pitched array of plum liqueur, dark currant and floral suggestions that are trimmed in hints of menthol. There is a bit more volume and mid-palate density, if less obvious minerality, to the medium weight plus flavors that are at once punchy and overtly powerful, all wrapped in a clearly built to age finale. This is excellent but patience will definitely be required.Burghound | 92-94 BHAromas of sweet red cherries, figs, rose petals and spices introduce the 2022 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, a medium to full-bodied, deep and layered wine that’s one of the riper, more muscular wines in the range, exhibiting just a touch of sur maturité.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RP

The 2022 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru is showing brilliantly, wafting from the glass with notes of red berries and cherries mingled with incense, rose petals, spices and peonies. Full-bodied, fleshy and layered, it’s seep and multidimensional, with a concentrated core of fruit and a long, resonant finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2022 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet with black cherries, wild strawberries and iris flower, more intense than the 2023. Taut and focused, the palate is medium-bodied with a fresh entry, quite linear for a Bonnes-Mares, with a bright, vivacious finish. Very fine.Vinous Media | 93 VM25% whole bunch vinification. More of a pinky purple. Still in barrel, so the bouquet reflects this. There is a fine and concentrated mineral thread through the middle of this wine and significant class to the fruit. Does it have the silky sensual quality of the very finest? Drink from 2032-2040. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-96 JMLike the Clos de Vougeot, this too is quite firmly reduced and revealing nothing aromatically. More interesting are the beautifully textured and tension-filled bigger-bodied flavors that exhibit fine length on the dusty and balanced finale. This would benefit from having better depth but the potential to develop it appears to present.Burghound | 92-95 BH

The 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Vide Bourse shows considerable promise, unwinding in the glass with aromas of pear and orange oil mingled with notes of white flowers, mint and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and structured, with lively acids, chalky grip and a resonant finish, it will only be bottled after a second winter on the lees.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPLike the Vergers, the wood treatment is prominent but not invasive as it permits the ripe and again vaguely exotic aromas of white and yellow peach, passion fruit and citrus confit to be appreciated. The wood also appears on the caressing and plush medium weight plus flavors that are also blessed with an abundance of sappy dry extract that coats the palate on the powerful and serious but well-balanced and refreshing finale. While this could be approached young, I would advise holding it for at least a few years first so that the wood treatment can more completely integrate.Burghound | 92 BHPale lemon. Powerful character. Stands up like a limestone menhir. Too concentrated to see all the detail yet, with also a little salinity. Mostly white fruit but with some riper yellow tints to it. Clean at the finish, not too oaky, and of course persistent. Drink from 2028-2036. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JM

A markedly floral-suffused nose is both cool and strikingly pure with its airy aromas of essence of white orchard fruit, passion fruit and plenty of spice and citrus elements. There is first-rate volume to succulent but punchy large-bodied flavors that are rich to the point of opulence yet there is very good delineation to the powerful, sappy and palate coating finish where the only nit is a trace of warmth. I would point out that this is presently decidedly compact and tightly wound so this would best be purchased knowing that at least mid-term cellaring will be in order.Burghound | 96 BHThe 2022 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru emerges from holdings that straddle the Chassagne and Puligny sides. Super-elegant and refined, Boillot’s Batard has a ton to offer, even if it is rather reticent at this stage. White flowers, mint, spice and light pastry overtones add layers of nuance. The 2022 is unctuous, but not at all heavy. This really opens beautifully onto its explosive finish. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 95-97 VMA glowing pale yellow. Super-concentrated if not yet very yielding bouquet. Extra tension here, certainly some depth, but perhaps more in class than power. That will change with time – the class with remain but the depth will expand. White fruit, tension, some youthful bitters, but keeping itself to itself for the moment. Really very long finish though. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted: December 2023.Jasper Morris | 95-98 JM

Lush, juicy and seductive, this red features blackberry, black currant, blueberry, iron and earth aromas and flavors. Quickly tightens up courtesy of the solid structure, with fine promise for its evolution. Offers terrific balance and length. Best from 2029 through 2047. 400 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe 2022 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos des Porrets-Saint-Georges 1er Cru had been racked the previous week, but it was essentially the final wine I tasted as it was just about to be bottled. It has a stricter and more backward bouquet than the Chênes Carteaux: blackberry and wild strawberry fruit, the 20% new oak neatly folded in. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannins, leaning more towards black fruit laced with tar and tobacco. Quite Morey-like towards the finish with impressive persistence. Give this two or three years in bottle to shave the edges. Very fine.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMRacked, to bottle in December. 35 hl/ha. A darker purple, just a little oak showing on the nose alongside the dark raspberry fruit. The grain of tannin is very good, and ideally integrated, with just the right acidity as well. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMThis manages to be at once ripe yet cool with its layered combination of black cherry, plum and just turned earth and humus nuances. There is notably better density and volume to the bigger-bodied flavors that coat the palate with dry extract on the firm, moderately austere and sneaky long finish. This by contrast is going to need at least a few years of keeping first.Burghound | 90-92 BH

In 2022, the Chambolle Baudes was my favourite of Lignier’s several holdings in the village. The wine displays an expressive red and black fruit aroma, with notes of Asian spice and peonies, yet there is also a savoury, earthy side to the aroma. The texture is supple and not at all heavy. Ideally, one would wait five years to open this and then drink it over the next twenty or more that follow since it has the substance to age well.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThere is one new barrel out of the four. Mid purple, much more energy, and density behind. A lower pH compared to Chabiots is what drives this. An explosion of red berry fruit on the palate, with a crisp clean long finish, very complete. Drink from 2032-2038. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMThe 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Les Baudes 1er Cru has a very floral bouquet like the Chabiots…more intense perhaps, a touch more mineralité. Very well-defined. The palate is svelte and velvety smooth in texture, with vivacious redcurrant, strawberry notes, blood orange, and a touch of fresh fig towards the caressing finish. This will be very seductive.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMThe 2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Baudes is one of the highlights of the range, offering up aromas of ripe cherries, red berries, orange zest and Indian spices. Medium to full-bodied, supple and layered, it’s deep and concentrated, with a style that reflects its proximity to Bonnes-Mares.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPHere the ripe, spice and floral-suffused aromas display notes of violet, rose petal, anise and both red and dark pinot fruit. There is equally good size, weight and power to the slightly more muscular flavors that deliver excellent length on the balanced and slightly more structured finale. The Lignier Baudes always ages extremely well and the 2022 version should be no exception.Burghound | 91-93 BH

Aromas of peonies, mint and sweet red berries introduce the 2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Chabiots (négoce), a medium to full-bodied, supple and perfumed wine with melting tannins and a saline, rose-inflected finish. This delicate, ethereal red will offer a broad drinking window.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RPThe 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Chabiots 1er Cru comes from purchased fruit, 25% whole bunches, and comprises three barrels. This is nicely focused with rose petals, red cherry, and crushed strawberry on the nose. The medium-bodied palate is floral in style with pliant tannins, quite lush red fruit, and a smooth, sensual finish. Très Chambolle, this should be drinking after four or five years.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM3 barrels, one new, from purchased grapes. A pink crimson colour, flowery, soft strawberries, a little peppery behind, minor tannins. Agreeable yet lacking the density of the Nuits Poisets. Fair length though. Drink from 2030-2035. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 90-93 JMA much spicier and more elegant nose freely offers up its aromas of fresh red cherry, plum and pretty array of floral elements. The delicious, vibrant and moderately muscular medium-bodied flavors exude evident minerality on the dusty, firm and youthfully austere finale. This could use better depth but I like the balance, which should allow it to age gracefully over a decade plus.Burghound | 89-92 BH

Mid purple in colour with a sensual nose, and a touch of white pepper. A dark red fruit on the palate, dark strawberry, with fair length behind. A pleasing rendition of friendly Charmes-Chambertin. Drink from 2030-2039. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMModerate reduction blocks an evaluation of the nose. The succulent bigger-bodied flavors possess better concentration but not nearly the refinement and while there is good persistence, the dusty finish is a bit chewy and rustic.Burghound | 90-93 BHThe 2022 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet, opening with black cherries, wild strawberries, and crushed stone. There is real vibrancy here. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly rustic opening. It’s a solid Charmes-Chambertin with good depth but lacks some precision on the finish. A slipped catch from an otherwise strong line-up?Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

This wine is the star of the Lignier cellar and among the best in Morey, with its currant and mulberry fruit and hints of savoury, gamey depth. The wine is more muscular, structured, and dense than the ’classic’ Clos de la Roche, yet there is enough elegance to ensure that this wine is in a class of its own. The grapes come from 27 ares planted in Monts Luisants by Lignier’s grandparents in 1955. One-third of the grapes were gently fermented as whole clusters over 18 days, and the wine is ageing now in a cask (one-third new).Decanter Magazine | 98 DECThe 2022 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with aromas of smoky plums and berries mingled with notions of cinnamon, raw cocoa, game bird and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, with supple, powdery tannins cloaked by a sweet core of fruit, it concludes with a broad but saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPHere too the nose is sufficiently reduced as to mask the fruit. On the palate though there is both good verve and freshness to the highly seductive and rich larger-scaled flavors that brim with sappy dry extract and evident minerality on the balanced, firm and lingering finale that exhibits focused power. This is really quite impressive and a wine that should amply repay extended keeping.Burghound | 92-95 BH

The ripe mulberry and black cherry fruit aromas here have hints of leather, earth and spice that carry through to the palate. The structure has admirable grip and focus, leading the wine to a pleasantly persistent finish. The grapes are from a half-hectare recently purchased; he extracts very carefully, with a pre-soak but no more punching down. The result is elegant and should be ready to drink shortly after release.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECA pretty purple with good depth, on a steady slope well exposed to the south. Attractive juicy red fruit, more strawberries, with good energy all the way through. As with the village wine, this is more about the fruit than the structure. Drink from 2028-2033. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 89-91 JMThe 2022 Monthélie 1er Cru Sur la Velle is seamless and charming, offering up notes of plums, sweet berries, smoke and spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, supple and charming palate. This will offer expressive drinking on release.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 88-90 RPFirm reduction blocks an assessment of the nose though there is good freshness and verve to the succulent, delicious and velvet-textured medium-bodied flavors that deliver reasonably good length on the firm, dusty and mildly chewy finish that is rustic but not hard.Burghound | 88-90 BHThe 2022 Monthélie Sous la Velle 1er Cru has a crisp, well-defined bouquet, the 20% whole bunches neatly integrated, offering hints of raspberry and blackcurrant leaf. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins and well-balanced, though it needs a little more depth toward the finish. But I appreciate the white pepper notes on the conclusion. An admirable Monthélie.Vinous Media | 87-90 VM

The top of the slope above the Clos Saint-Denis is classed as premier cru Les Chaffots (the bottom of the climat is grand cru Clos Saint-Denis). Laurent Lignier uses his half-hectare (all above 300 m elevation) here to craft a sublime wine—it is a superlative spot in hot years such as 2022. This wine boasts fresh cherry and pomegranate fruit aromas with an edge of floral notes and a hint of earth and smoke. The texture is tannic and firm, with impressive concentration and length. It should open well in five to seven years and drink for another twenty beyond that.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Chaffots 1er Cru comes from vines planted in 1968 and is the first vintage where they were tended organically. Blended with one-third whole bunches, this has a succinct bouquet of mineral-rich red fruit that blossoms in the glass. Very focused. The palate is medium-bodied, very poised, and saline with fine-grain tannins. It is powdery in texture and long and tender towards the finish. Bon vin!Vinous Media | 93-95 VMA 1968 planting. Glowing deep purple. Clean raspberry fruit with a fine intensity, which expresses itself even better on the palate, with an energetic dark raspberry and a suggestion of black cherry. A few tannins still. This may take a little more time but is very promising. Drink from 2032-2038. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMThe 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Chaffots is tauter and more tensile than the ampler Riotte, reflecting its stonier, higher-altitude terroir. Revealing aromas of smoky berries, plums, spices and loamy soil, it’s medium to full-bodied, supple and saline.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPFirm reduction presently overshadows the fruit. Otherwise, there is equally good intensity to the bigger-bodied and notably more powerful flavors that manage to be both suave yet precise on the very firm, youthfully austere and impressively long finale. Like the Baudes, this is a wine with excellent aging potential.Burghound | 90-93 BH

After a somewhat disappointing 2021, Lignier’s Trilogie is back in fine form in 2022, with dense blackberry fruit aromas and tar, earth and spice notes underscored by a dark chocolate note. The texture is substantial and tannic – an imposing village-level wine. The grape blend is based on the Chenevery lieu-dit (60%) with the addition of fruit from old cordon-trained vines in the clay-rich soils of Clos Solon and a bit of Les Porroux on the border of Chambolle. Marvellous.Decanter | 94 DECThe trilogy of Chenevery (60%), Les Porroux (30%) and 10% Clos Solon was all planted by Laurent’s grandfather, planted between the late 1940s and early 60s. Just a little deeper in colour, and with some reduction, plus also slightly more oak, but well judged. Notably more precision here, what Clive Coates would call grip, and extra intensity towards the back. A slightly darker red fruit in this wine, and very persistent. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMThe 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis Trilogie is a success, wafting from the glass with aromas of plums, peonies, raw cocoa and vine smoke. Medium to full-bodied, supple and sapid, with powdery tannins and a persistent finish, it’s the usual blend of Chenevery, Porroux and Clos Solon.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-91 RPThe 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis Trilogie, based around 60% from Chenevery, has a well-defined bouquet of vivacious red berries, tart red cherries, citrus, and a touch of white chocolate. The palate is well-defined, with a smooth texture and a keen bead of acidity. It is quite saline in the mouth with a slightly austere finish at the moment, but it will fill out with time in bottle. One for the patient amongst you.Vinous Media | 90-92 VMOnce again moderate reduction largely masks the underlying fruit. By contrast, there is both good freshness and energy suffusing the succulent and delicious medium-bodied flavors that conclude in a rustic, firm and sneaky long finish. This nicely made effort should repay 7 to 10 years of keeping.Burghound | 88-91 BH

Laurent Lignier has farmed a quarter-hectare of village Volnay since the 2020 vintage, split evenly between the rocky Ez Blanches at the top of the slope above the Clos des Chênes and Ez Echarts with deeper clay soils below Roncerets. The combination is delightful, with violet-scented blackberry fruit, firm tannic grip and rewarding density. The grapes are partly destemmed and given a cold soak before fermentation with a combination of punching down and pumping over. They will be bottled in the spring without fining or filtration.Decanter | 93 DECThis is also presently quite firmly reduced and unreadable in this condition. The relatively finely textured middleweight flavors also possess a succulent mid-palate that contrasts somewhat with the moderately austere and lingering if noticeably warm finish that isn’t subtle.Burghound | 87-90 BH

The red premier cru Gravières is the flagship of this estate. It is widely seen as the finest vineyard in Santenay, and Jessiaume owns more than five hectares; the bulk of this is included here. This substantial wine is slightly reticent on the initial attack, but it opens with time to show deep mulberry and plum fruit aromas, hints of exotic black tea and spice. The texture is dense and firm, with silky but supportive tannins and impressive persistence on the palate. The grapes are destemmed and gently fermented before ageing for 12 months in cask (25% new).Decanter | 94 DECA fine flowing crimson purple colour. The bouquet has both class and a sense of reserve. Dark raspberry fruit, but the key is that this wine is busting with energy without sacrificing finesse. The tannins are correctly ripe and integrate beautifully, and there is just the right point of acidity alongside. An impeccable finish. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JM