Red Wines

wines

From one of the most sought-after crus sites today, the G.D. Vajra 2021 Barolo Ravera opens to a vibrant ruby color. The wine takes its time opening, especially when tasted young, but that delay bodes well for its future bottle evolution. This wine is built like a wall, with each brick representing its own distinct character. There is dark fruit, pressed flower, herb, ebony and a very elegant mineral side. The bouquet is direct and vertical, with lifted intensity over a medium-plus palate. The tannins are elegantly managed, and this wine has the latitude for long cellar aging. It ferments in stainless steel and ages in large oak casks.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPWild berry, dog rose, violet, hay, menthol and spice aromas waft out of the glass on the incredibly fragrant and gorgeous 2021 Ravera from G.D. Vajra. Full-bodied and succulent, the delicious palate delivers raspberry compote, strawberry, baking spice and star anise alongside tightly woven, fine-grained tannins. Bright acidity keeps it youthfully tense and balanced. Drink 2031–2046. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe 2021 Barolo Ravera is laced with bright red-toned fruit, iron, spice, cedar, tobacco and dried herbs. Bright acids and beams of tannin give the Ravera its distinctively driving feel. Today, the 2021 is a bit sinewy. I suspect it will always remain a vibrant, steely Barolo. The Ravera is a fine choice for readers who appreciate the more savory, mineral side of Barolo.Vinous Media | 95+ VMHarvested around the same time as Bricco delle Viole, the Ravera saw an even longer maceration – 55 days – and slightly more time in wood. All GD Vajra’s Barolo mature in large Slavonian oak casks, allowing site to shine. Reserved to begin with, this reveals tobacco, bay leaf and wet stone. Full and dense with some of the richness that the Bricco delle Viole expresses but ultimately steelier in temperament. Tangy blackcurrant is underscored by a distinct mineral edge. Firm, chiselled tannins build in strength without becoming brawny. Definitely cellarworthy.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThis wine shows aromas of black cherries, fresh violets, thyme and touches of mint and smoke. Relaxing attack on the palate, with firm, dusty yet ripe tannins and crisp acidity. Medium- to full-bodied, it needs time to reach its full potential. Try from 2027.James Suckling | 95 JS

The 2021 Barolo Cannubi is another stellar Barolo in this range from Claudio Fenocchio. Aromatic and lifted, the 2021 is classic Cannubi. Bright acids cut through a core of sweet red-toned fruit, mint, orange peel, cinnamon and new leather. This chiseled, nuanced Barolo is a winner.Vinous Media | 95 VMA restrained Barolo with red currants, red cherries, bright violets and a balsamic touch on the nose. More elegant than powerful, it’s medium- to full-bodied with enjoyable thick yet ripe tannins, crisp acidity and cherry stones in the finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2027.James Suckling | 95 JSWhile based in Monforte d’Alba, the Fenocchio family has owned a small 0.5ha slice in Cannubi Boschis for over 50 years and it has been bottled separately since 1980. Striking scents are redolent of rhubarb compote, cherry bark, toasted hazelnut and warm, dusty earth. This is full, dense and even a bit chewy as supple fruit fuses with seemingly pliant tannins which build with dry, sandy texture, providing a firm, well defined frame. Citrussy acidity is direct and penetrating, with a thrillingly crisp finish. I wouldn’t touch it for at least a couple of years – Fenocchio’s wines age exceptionally well.Decanter Magazine | 94 DEC

Dark aromas of graphite, potpourri, smoke, bergamot and dried cherries. Firm tannins on the palate, with a full body, a dusty texture, refreshing acidity and a powerful finish. Extracted, meaty, concentrated and balanced for the long haul, with an amazing minty aftertaste. Try from 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Barolo Villero is laced with spice, new leather, herbs, menthol and licorice. It exudes depth, structure and classicism, with plenty of the balsamic inflections that are such signatures of Villero. I admire the wine’s virile intensity and overall power. This is a superb showing.Vinous Media | 96 VMMy top pick from this estate in 2021, the Villero bottling is crafted from 65-year-old vines. The southwest-facing plot is characterised by calcareous clay rich in iron, which typically gives solidly structured wines. The house’s confidently extracted style accentuates this but is so well honed that the wine remains in brilliant balance. It is as expressive as it is textured: entrancing aromas convey smoke, cinnamon, sarsaparilla and a burst of violet. While tight and vertical to begin with, a mouthful of stoniness makes way for a richness of dark fruit through the mid-palate, all hemmed in by sophisticated, grainy tannins while sappy acidity lends a cleansing quality.Decanter Magazine | 96 DEC

This shows balsamic, sandalwood, rose petals and a touch of red fruit on the nose. The palate is tight, with precise chewy tannins, tight fruit and a compact finish. A solid, exceptional Barolo that will need about three years to soften.James Suckling | 97 JSShowing the fantastic aromatics this site is known for, you’ll find enticing aromas of iris, dog rose, wild berry, forest floor and menthol on Paolo Scavino’s radiant 2021 Bricco Ambrogio. This MGA always has softer tannins out of the gate than the estate’s other cru offerings and the stunning 2021 is no exception, delivering succulent flavors of ripe Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, blood orange, mint and licorice alongside polished tannins. It’s beautifully balanced, with fresh acidity. Drink 2029–2041. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe 2021 Barolo Bricco Ambrogio is classy and polished to the core. This wine has come such a long way since its debut. Enrico Scavino really believed in this site when he purchased it a little more than 20 years ago. The 2021 is a fine testament to his vision. Lavender, sage, menthol and licorice lead into a core of dark-toned fruit in a Barolo that is deep yet also light on its feet. This is impeccably done, not to mention very tasty.Vinous Media | 95 VMThe Paolo Scavino 2021 Barolo Bricco Ambrogio is usually the lightest wine in the family’s collection of single-vineyard wines. From the village of Roddi in the northernmost point of the appellation, this area has wide vineyard valleys and cool southeast exposures. The heat of the day falls away quickly thanks to steep diurnal shifts. The soils are composed of blue marl and sand, and the family farms seven hectares here, of which five hectares are Nebbiolo (the rest is Dolcetto and old-vine Barbera). A selection of the best fruit is made from old vines and put into this bottle. The wine is soft and silky with red and blue fruits and floral aromas to close.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

Fruit for this wine comes from a three-hectare parcel in Serralunga d’Alba near the village, with south and southwestern exposures in a small amphitheater. The soils in this area are older and thus more evolved, but they always create wines of strong character. The Vietti 2021 Barolo Lazzarito is easy to identify thanks to its salty mineral finish, which is almost metallic in taste, and its bright hints of sweet rosemary and wild herb. These delicate high notes form pretty framing to a dark core of elegant fruit. The estate counts five vineyards in Serralunga d’Alba, but Lazzarito is the only MGA bottling. Production is a bit larger here, with 10,363 bottles made this vintage.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPA graceful and enticing wine with complex, assertive cinnamon, melon, watermelon, earth, strawberries and peonies on the nose. This is a wine that breathes, with a full body, great fruit concentration, restrained blood orange flavors, lavish, elegant tannins and long, lifted acidity. Slightly stern in the finish, as expected from a young Barolo. Best after 2028.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Barolo Lazzarito is a potent, deep wine. Not surprisingly, it is quite closed in the very early going. Even so, all the natural power and intensity of Serralunga is very much on display. It is the most backward and forbiddingly tannic of these Barolos today. Then again, that is Serralunga. Hints of gravel, incense and charcoal peek out on the finish.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Lots of violets, cola and blueberries on the nose, complemented by a clay pot note. Fascinating aromatics. The palate is medium- to full-bodied with polished tannins. A cohesive and complete wine that’s angular and incisive, with subtlety, precision and elegance. Lots of personality in each detail. It needs at least four years to soften. But what a wine.James Suckling | 98 JSThis is the baby in the bunch, representing one of the newest additions to the Vietti portfolio, with the first vintage produced in 2018. The learning curve in Monvigliero is always steep, or so most winemakers tell me, because very few can go to 100% whole-cluster fermentation. Indeed, the 2021 Barolo Monvigliero sees 60% whole clusters. The Vietti team is experienced, and this wine is pristine. This vintage was harvested on September 30th, and maceration was a bit shorter, at 20 days. The wine shows a delicate film of pink salt with garden herbs, lemon leaves and spring flowers. It is a wine of extreme elegance, but I find that this vintage is especially Mediterranean in character. Production is 8,663 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2021 Barolo Monvigliero is another step forward for Vietti. Aromatic and lifted, the 2021 is all class. The stems (60%) are evident but not as strong of a marker as they were in the first years. Stylistically, the Monvigliero is closest to the Ravera, with which it shares a taut, mineral-driven personality.Vinous Media | 95 VM

You could argue that this is the wine with the fasting growing quality trajectory because this vineyard site is one of those rare places in the appellation that appears to improve despite (or more likely because of) a changing climate. Ravera enjoys an open panorama (at 400 to 440 meters in elevation) that extends to the snow-capped Alps and benefits from cooler air currents, coupled with an amazing quality of light that you notice with the naked eye. The 2021 Barolo Ravera saw its fruit harvested later than the other wines, on October 11th, and continued with a classic Vietti-style fermentation with 20-plus days of skin contact. Simply put, what Ravera offers is complexity (and strength) with hints of bergamot, citrus, herbs, mineral and salt over a tightly concentrated mouthfeel. The quality of the tannins and the freshness of this 2021 are impressive, and that citrusy note continues with tangerine skin and kumquat. Production is 8,700 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RPThe 2021 Barolo Ravera is one of the many standouts in this range from Vietti. Blood orange, chalk, mint, white pepper and slate all infuse the palate with notable persistence. Intensely saline and mineral, the Ravera is not an easy wine, as it is focused and taut rather than immediate. It’s a Barolo that demands a lot from the taster, but it pays that attention back in spades.Vinous Media | 98 VMLimpid and transparent, the 2021 allies vivacity with rigour. Hints of pepper lift red currant blossom and raspberry aromas. Sapid minerals tantalise the palate, which is awash with tangy sumac and succulent blood orange. The cool alpine air is palpable in the racy acidity and linear, chiselled tannins. Structure is still very much in control here but gracious enough to disclose future rewards. Vineyards in Ravera were purchased in 1995, when it was still considered too cold to reliably ripen Nebbiolo, but now this is consistently one of Vietti’s top bottlings.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECProtective and precise style here. Blood-orange and floral bouquet, restrained if not reductive, with cherry candy and chocolatey depth. Smooth attack to the palate with medium body, assertive acidity and refined tannins that turn dustier on the finish. Overall juicy and fresh, yet slightly stern. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 94 JS