Red Wines

wines

The 2019 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée looks set to rival the best examples of this bottling. Made up of approximately 80% Grenache, with 6% Syrah, 4% Mourvèdre and smaller amounts of other permitted varieties, it’s impressively complex on the nose, with scents of black cherries, blackberries and black olives, plus mysterious wafts of violets and garrigue. Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, it finishes long and velvety, a sure-fire bet for cellaring.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RPThis youthful Chateauneuf has a very complex nose of graphite, raw meat and lilies. With aeration the black-cherry note steadily grows in intensity. Bold, leathery and earthy palate with fine tannins that build steadily on at the extremely long and straight mineral finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2024.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Réservée was hard to read and incredibly reductive, which is a trait I’ve never seen from this estate. Black fruits, licorice, and roasted garrigue are all present in this medium to full-bodied, structured, tannic, firm wine. It’s a head scratcher, but hopefully I’ll be able to taste this again next year before it’s released. Given the quality of the vintage, it should be better than this showing.Jeb Dunnuck | 91-94 JD

The Pieve Santa Restituta 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille reveals a finely chiseled quality, with direct and lifted fruit, that gives this wine an angular or delineated personality. This impression is reinforced by delicate mineral notes of crushed stone that fold into dark fruit, sweet plum, black cherry and earthy iris root. The wine is elegant, but it also shows lots of umami or textural deliciousness thanks to the natural ripeness and concentration of the fruit. Give this wine more time in bottle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPExtremely perfumed and intense with lilacs, violets, purple fruits and black cherries. Full-bodied and very structured with punchy tannins that give this great length and intensity. This is a great one for the cellar. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille is dark and youthfully inward, forcing the taster to work with its brooding blend of blackberries, sage and crushed stone. This displays textures of pure silk, polished and refined, with a dense textural wave of tart red and black fruits underscored by saline minerals and exotic spice. Orange notes add contrast through the close as this finishes tannic and long, with a pleasantly chewy sensation and angular tannins that pinch the cheeks. The 2019 is a dark stallion of a Brunello, all muscle and meat, that will take many years of cellaring to show its best. That said, it will be worth the wait.Vinous Media | 96 VMBalsamic aromas of camphor mingle with new leather, cedar, blue flower and underbrush on the brooding 2019 Sugarille. Showing more structure than the Rennina but still endowed with the firm’s hallmark of elegance, it delivers ripe black cherry, blood orange licorice and tobacco framed in tightly-woven, close grained tannins that give it a velvety texture. Drink 2039–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOTo complete Angelo Gaja’s comparison with his Langhe wines, he likens Sugarille to Barolo (as opposed to the Rennina, which he equates with Barbaresco). Powerfully constructed, this will appeal to drinkers seeking a vigorous style of Brunello. Sweet oak spice and plum take on earthy forest undertones. It’s ample and expansive in fruit, yet austere and tight in structure: dark cherry and plum hang off steely, vertical grape tannins. Thicker wood tannins build through the core but crisp acidity offsets the dense structure, and medicinal herbs are tucked into its layers. This becomes increasingly firmer as it sits in the glass, and will need a whole lot of time.Decanter | 95 DEC

The Podere Brizio 2019 Brunello is utterly delicious. Made with organically grown grapes, it opens with aromas of new leather, violet and forest berry while the smooth, elegant palate delivers ripe black cherry, spiced blue berry, cinnamon and licorice before a wintergreen finish. Tightly woven, velvety tannins provide enveloping support. It’s already almost accessible and will offer years of pleasure. Drink 2027–2034. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOBlack cherry, blackberry, plum, violet and mineral flavors are the hallmarks of this pure, dense and robust red, which is squarely in the fruity camp, yet bumps up against pointed tannins on the finish. The lasting impression is both fruit and tannins, so this should work itself out in a few years. Best from 2027 through 2043. 3,000 cases made, 1,600 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe organic Podere Brizio 2019 Brunello di Montalcino (in a heavy glass bottle) shows pretty aromas of crushed stone, dried raspberry, redcurrant, cherry cola and blue flower. The elegance and finer qualities of this wine are what stand out most, and you get pretty definition and sharpness along the way. The finish is lean, tonic, lifted and bright. Some 38,000 bottles were made. Great job.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPDark magenta/ruby, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino has a great nose, with concentrated power and purity in its aromas of cedar, fresh black raspberries, lavender, and baking spice. Full-bodied, although it remains linear with an even spine of acidity and refined tannins, it has great mouthwatering lift and a clean, long finish. It’s an impressive offering with a wide drinking window over the next 10-15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDCrunchy and blooming red wine, displaying vibrant black cherries, redcurrants and violets, together with fascinating, savory spice notes of cloves and licorice. Medium-bodied and round on the palate with mouthwatering acidity. Chewy yet fine-grained tannins. Lively and flavorful. From organically grown grapes. This will develop nicely with age. Hold until 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a sweet burst of spice and dusty dried flowers. This is racy and sleek with cooling acidity and crisp wild berry fruits. It finishes with medium length while pleasantly chewy sensations and edgy tannins mingle with hints of licorice.Vinous Media | 90 VM

Aromas of truffle, oak-driven spice and ripe dark-skinned fruit lead the nose. On the full-bodied, delicious palate, tightly-woven, velvety tannins and fresh acidity accompany raspberry compote, baked plum, vanilla and black licorice. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 13.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Amore e Magia reminds me more of an exotic herbal tea than wine, as hints of incense and jasmine give way to spiced blood orange. This soothes with its silky textures and cool acidity. Ripe wild berry fruits smooth over the palate, contrasted by a touch of orange toward the close. Its tannins come through in the finish, grippy and edgy, adding a classically dry sensation as suggestions of tart cranberry fade under rosy inner florals. Patience will be required; this is a strapping, young Brunello that flaunts its southern roots.Vinous Media | 95 VMYouthful red/ruby in color, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Amore & Magia offers a fantastic layered and pure nose of dried cranberries, leather, turned earth, orange peel, and clove. Medium-bodied, it’s refined and mouthwatering, with vibrant energy, fine tannins, a soft, stony texture, and a clean finish. It floats on the palate and is a fantastic offering from the estate. Drink 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDShowing maturing notes of mushroom and woodsy underbrush, this red also reveals ripe cherry, strawberry, almond, iron and sanguine flavors. Firm enough yet approachable, with fine overall balance and length. Drink now through 2039. 1,100 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSLots of bright, very ripe red-berry character to this medium-bodied red with a light but firm tannin framework to the palate. But the fresh fruit pushes through to the end. Turns savory just at the end. Needs a year for better overall integration. Try from 2022.James Suckling | 92 JSLe Ripi’s CEO and head winemaker, Sebastian Nasello is not averse to taking risks in the cellar and while the wines have character, they are not always technically perfect. Case in point, a touch of Brett pokes through in the 2019, diffusing the aromas. Some red plum, sweet herbs and coffee eventually come into focus. That red fruit is at the fore on the palate, heightened by bitter chinotto and salty minerals. Large-grained tannins are pixelated and felt all over the mouth. The whole remains light on its feet. Not for classicists.Decanter | 91 DECThe Podere le Ripi 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Amore e Magia (with 13,000 bottles produced) comes from a three-hectare site with rich white-clay soils. This wine is firm and structured with powdery tannins and medium-rich fruit weight. It offers a classic mouthfeel, but like some of the other wines in this flight, I wonder about the integrity of the bouquet that has savory aromas and even a hint of latex or natural rubber.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

Bottling in summer 2021, the 2019 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes bursts with aromas of cherries, sweet berries and plums mingled with hints of licorice, cinnamon, red fruit compote and orange rind. Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, it’s muscular and textural, with broad shoulders and a deep, layered core of fruit. Concluding with a long, saline finish, this is the most powerful wine in the range, and it will require the most patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPPonsot is the largest landowner here, with old vines whose average age is 65 years. Everything at Ponsot is calculated for maximum purity of expression: the fruit is completely destemmed, extraction is gentle and no new casks are used in the maturation. The results in 2019 are absolutely marvellous, with lush dark plum and cassis fruit, alongside savoury, earthy accents. The texture is silky, dense and long. A monumental wine. Drinking Window 2029 - 2049.Decanter | 96 DEC(Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Red) A cool, pure and highly complex nose combines aromas of essence of plum liqueur, black cherry, violet, earth and plenty of spice components. The sense of refinement continues on the sleek, succulent and almost lacy mineral-driven and wonderfully textured medium weight flavors that deliver superb persistence on the exceptionally firm, beautifully balanced and youthfully austere finale. It’s not all the time that Clos de la Roche is described as a wine of class, but in 2019, this wine has that highly desirable attribute. In a word, terrific. (Drink starting 2037)Burghound | 96 BH

The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Her Majesty’s Secret Service Stagecoach Vineyard boasts lovely harmony between the red and black fruit (cherries and cassis), the oak (cedar and vanilla) and the delicate herbal nuances (sage and bay leaf). Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, with a long, velvety finish, this is a real beauty that should improve for at least a decade. Have I underestimated it?Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Her Majesty’s Secret Service is a deep, ample wine. Crème de cassis, licorice, lavender, spice and menthol build beautifully in the glass. This pliant, lush Cabernet is all charm. Her Majesty’s Secret Service emerges from block 5M at Stagecoach, a block Aaron Pott planted himself. What impresses most is the way Pott has tamed the tannins that can be so fierce at this site. His 2019 is a drop-dead gorgeous beauty.Antonio Galloni | 95 AGMore cassis and a kiss of blue fruits emerge from the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Her Majesty’s Secret Service, a medium to full-bodied, juicy, ultra-classic Napa Valley Cabernet with great tannins, a juicy, elegant mouthfeel, good depth of fruit, and a great finish. Despite its charm and approachability, it has rock solid acidity, tannins, and structure and is going to evolve gracefully for upwards of two decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 95+ JD

Camphor, rose, cedar and ripe red berry aromas come to the forefront on this beautiful Barbaresco. Smooth and elegantly structured, the focused palate features ripe Morello cherry, crushed raspberry, star anise and white pepper alongside taut, refined tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. Drink 2023–2031. Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe 2019 Barbaresco does not disappoint, opening with aromas of fresh cherries, wild thyme and rose petals. Elegant and refined on the palate with notes of crushed raspberries, savory spice and turned earth. The wine finishes with poise and confidence knowing it will most likely outlast all other wines in the cellar. Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThere is a more pronounced mineral and delicately spiced character to the 2019 Barbaresco, with notes of wet asphalt and kirsch and vibrant purity. It has elegant concentration, with fine coiled tannins in its hints of tea leaves, bergamot, and ripe wild raspberry, and has a more pronounced structure, This is a fantastic expression. Drink 2024-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 94-95 JDThis red combines cherry, plum, tar, iron, licorice and eucalyptus aromas and flavors, backed by a firm, refreshing profile. Dense and tight for now; however, the long, resonant finish and lingering fruit and white pepper accents show its potential. Best from 2027 through 2045.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThis is extremely floral and bright on the nose with lavender, violets and dark berries. Orange peel too. Full-bodied and solid with firm tannins and a tight finish. Better in 2024.James Suckling | 93 JSProduttori’s Barbaresco classico feels lively and light, its tart cherry and red-plum flavors fleshing out over several hours to show impressive depth and complexity. The tannins are firm and ripe, guiding the juicy red-fruit flavors to a long and balanced finish that’s freshened by a note of orange zest.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 93 W&SThe 2019 Barbaresco is a gorgeous wine to drink now and over the next 15-20 years, give or take. Sweet, floral and open, the 2019 offers lovely brightness and energy to match its mid-weight, nervy feel. Sweet dried cherry, mint, crushed flowers and savory notes all grace this soft, understated Barbaresco from the Produttori.Vinous Media | 91 VM

he 2019 Ovello Riserva is succulent and enveloping, offering scents of dark-skinned berry, forest floor, violet and new leather. Full-bodied with impressive structure and fruit, it boasts ripe raspberry, black cherry and licorice supported by firm, close-grained tannins that provide the backbone. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. Drink 2029–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is powerful, savory and intensely linear, in classico Ovello style, and yet it appears to have enough fruit behind its imposing tannins to develop well over the coming years. In this tasting, the Ovello feels pretty closed post bottling, but its inherent balance and qualities are there. Clean saline notes extend the finish in promising fashion.Vinous Media | 94 VM

Balsamic aromas of camphor mingle with pressed rose, wild berry, new leather and dark spice. Showing intensity and structure, the full-bodied, delicious palate boasts a weightless concentration, delivering fleshy raspberry, blood orange, almond liqueur and licorice alongside tightly woven, velvety tannins. Fresh acidity lifts the rich flavors and provides great balance. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà is redolent of dark fruit, crushed rocks, graphite, sage, menthol and lavender all race across the palate, supported by bracing, young Rabajà tannins that make themselves felt. This mid-weight, powerhouse Barbaresco packs quite a punch.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The lovely 2019 Pora Riserva from Produttori del Barbaresco offers delicate scents recalling ripe red fruit, culinary spice, new leather and violet while the refined palate features juicy raspberry, liquor soaked cherry and licorice. Tightly-knit, velvety tannins provide enveloping support. Pora is known for its softer tannins and smoother character thank to its more fertile soil, and the these traits come through even in 2019, a vintage known for yielding wines with youthful austerity. Drink 2027–2034. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Pora is a pretty tightly wound wine, certainly moreso than is typically the case for this Barbaresco, which is often much more engaging in the early going. Dried herbs, tobacco, cedar and earthiness lend notable savory nuance in this decidedly nervy, somber Pora. There’s good fruit intensity and plenty of character that makes me want to revisit this in a few months’ time.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The Grand Vin 2019 Château Rauzan-Ségla is beautiful, and it seems this estate can do no wrong since 2015. A more elegant, ethereal, complex Margaux, it has a perfumed and complex style in its red, blue, and black fruits as well as notes of white flowers, chalky minerality, and exotic spices. Haute couture at its finest and seamless, medium to full-bodied, perfectly balanced, and just stunning any way you look at it, it already offers pleasure today yet will easily have 30 years of prime drinking.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2019 Rauzan-Ségla has turned out brilliantly, unwinding in the glass with fragrant aromas of cassis, blackberries, violets, rose petals and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and concentrated, it’s deep and layered, with beautifully refined tannins, lively acids and a long, perfumed finish. This is a sensual, elegant Rauzan-Ségla from Nicolas Audebert and his team.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPMineral edged nose full of violet floral notes and blackcurrants, such delicacy. Gorgeous mouthfeel, the texture standing out straight away - filling, rich and round, dense and juicy - really delivering a punch of ripe, cherry fruit, covering the cheeks in chewy but crushed velvet like tannins. Creamy notes come through and then the spice, liquorice menthol flavours arrive and dominate giving a cool, fresh, rippling minerality towards the finish. Power and precision. Really a wine of two halves, the first juicy and alive the second half deep, dark and seductive. Excellent character, still restrained not showing everything but offering a glimmer of glamour that will shine through more over time. 100% biodynamic from 2020, should be certified by 2024.Decanter | 96 DECSubtle and complex aromas of sweet berries, rose stems and lavender with some sandalwood. Medium-to full-bodied with beautiful depth of fruit, creamy tannins and lots of chocolate and berry character. Yet, it’s tight at the end, showing beautiful depth and length. So structured. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2019 Rauzan-Ségla is surly and backward on the nose despite aeration. Gravelly black fruit, sous-bois and touches of seaweed emerge with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, fleshy and smooth, a dash of white pepper and cedar towards the shelled finish. This is one bottle that desperately needs more aeration to show its capabilities - one for long-term cellaring. Tasted blind at the Southwold annual tasting.Vinous Media | 93+ VMOffers a very elegant core of red and black currant and damson plum fruit that glides through with silky structure for support, while light mulling spice and incense notes infuse the finish. A rather understated style, but sneaky long and very refined. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2034.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2019 Barolo Pira is powerful and deep, but also very closed. There’s so much energy here, but readers will have to be patient, as this classically austere young Barolo clearly needs time. Hints of pine, menthol, licorice and dried herbs appear with some reluctance. I would not dream of touching a bottle anytime soon. Superb.Vinous Media | 97 VMA distinctive white pepper aroma leads off, followed by flavors of strawberry, sour cherry, mint, menthol and iron. Despite the lightness and ethereal quality, the texture reveals viscosity and intensity. Balanced and complex, ending with terrific length. Best from 2027 through 2045. 886 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

A relatively young estate, Lavantureux is definitely a domaine to watch. Arnaud and David are now running things, with a recent 0.95ha acquisition in Vau de Vey. Farmed by hand, this is a delightful Premier Cru which emphasises the character of this steep, stony climat. Lovely density on the palate with an intriguing lime character, balanced by mineral, flinty notes and a touch of creamy oak adding more complexity. Subtle and nuanced. Drinking Window 2022 - 2027.Decanter | 95 DECAromas of honeysuckle, lemon grass and citrus follow through to a medium body with fine tannins and a fresh, bright finish. Lots of lemon rind at the end. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Vau de Vey is a fine success, offering up aromas of citrus oil, white flowers, nutmeg and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, bright and chiseled, with fine depth at the core and a saline finish, this is certainly oak-inflected in style but integrates that patina more completely than the Vauprin.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2019 Chablis Vau de Vey 1er Cru has a lovely, pure, well-defined bouquet of mineral-tinged citrus fruit, dewy meadow and light flinty scents. The palate is taut and fresh with orange peel and a touch of yellow plum on the entry. There are hints of tropical fruit, but they are discreet, and the wine maintains wonderful focus on the finish. Delicious!Vinous Media | 92 VM

Made with grapes from the estate’s Sorgente, Piaggione and Teatro vineyards, the Salicutti 2019 Brunello is intensely fragrant, with alluring aromas of perfumed berry, iris, menthol and dark spice. Full-bodied and elegantly structured, the delicious palate delivers crushed raspberry, black cherry, cake spice and crushed mint. It’s also bright and beautifully balanced, with vibrant acidity. What a beauty. Drink 2027–2039. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOShowing a lifted note of cherry cough drop or vapor rub, the Salicutti 2019 Brunello di Montalcino starts on a high note but then slides smoothly into aromas of purple fruit and wild blackcurrant. Those initial balsamic notes transition to leafy forest, bramble and underbrush that give this wine a very pure, almost botanical personality. Earthy and floral elements also appear, with a hint of sweet lilac, over a mid-weight mouthfeel with bright acidity and fine tannins. The wine flirts with ripeness but ultimately maintains a place of restrained elegance and near under-ripeness that bodes well for its future evolution. Fermentation in cement lasts up to 30 days, and the wine sees 40 months in oak casks. I have not seen a straight village bottling from Salicutti in a number of years, and this is a welcome addition.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPAromas of black cherries, peaches, orange peel and fresh flowers. Medium-bodied with firm, racy tannins and hints of tar and graphite. Fresh and firm. From organically grown grapes. Better in three or four years. Try after 2026.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is earthy to the core, with a whiff of savory herbs and animal musk that blows off to reveal depths of dried black cherries and cloves. This is surprisingly energetic, nearly juicy in personality, with tart wild berry fruits that are enlivened by vibrant acidity as violet inner florals form toward the close. It finishes structured and long, yet its tannins are crunchy and sweet. The 2019 leaves traces of licorice and exotic spice to fade gradually. As youthful as this is, it’s almost impossible to put down. Salicutti has made a solid come-back in recent vintages.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe bright ruby 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino is punchy, open, and medium-bodied, with spritely notes of red cherry and hints of tangy bright orange peel and clove.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDWhile Felix and Sabine Eichbauer purchased Salicutti in 2015, the 2019 vintage was the first made without the collaboration of former owner, Francesco Leanza. They have tweaked the Brunello making it a blend from all three vineyards surrounding the estate – Teatro, Piaggione and Sorgente. It is a bit imprecise and gamey to start, but with coaxing fragrant forest herbs emerge. It’s prettier on the palate, where youthful red berries and soft tannins coalesce. It might benefit from another year in bottle however, the structure doesn’t lend itself to long ageing.Decanter | 91 DEC

The Salicutti 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione shows macerated aromas of cherry skin with a punchy, almost carbonic-adjacent quality that gives vibrancy and energy to the bouquet. Fruit comes from a site with lots of rocks and rich limestone soils. The bouquet starts off with tart pomegranate or rainier cherry, delivered with pinpoint directness, and then opens to embrace softer tones of underbrush, toasted fennel seed and cumin. The oak is almost invisible, although you do feel the enriched texture and the wine’s powdery tannins. The wine ends on a glossy note, but ultimately those tannins do stick around and you feel them for a long while.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPAlso expressive, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Piaggione is ruby with a magenta tinge and offers notes of raspberry liqueur, violets, and polished wood spices. Refined with fine tannins and a very balanced texture, it’s velvety and has a long finish. Drink 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDCamphor, dark culinary spice, fragrant purple flower and a whiff of forest floor greet the nose on the compelling 2019 Salicutti Piaggione. It’s full-bodied and loaded with finesse, delivering flavors of juicy Marasca cherry, licorice, almond liqueur and blood orange before an almost salty finish. Polished tannins keep it smooth. A fantastic wine. Drink 2029–2039. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe Piaggione vineyard is characteristic of southeast Montalcino. Rising steeply from 380 to 450 metres, it is bathed in the morning sun and caressed by winds from Monte Amiata. As it tends to give the estate’s most muscular wines, it was typically bottled as a Riserva before the estate changed hands. This 2019 is deceptively easygoing at first, with very lifted lavender and violet aromas that echo on the sweet-fruited palate. With time in the glass, however, its serious side is revealed as balsamic herbs and earthy undertones join the floral top notes. The palate tightens up as brisk acidity accentuates the dense, chewy tannins, and stony minerals build through the dark cherry core.Decanter | 95 DECPeppery roses and lavender slowly give way to crushed wild berries and tangerine as the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione dazzles the senses. This is a model of purity, with racy acidity and cool-toned minerality setting the stage for its crisp red and blue fruits. A web of fine-grained tannins slowly saturates the palate. The 2019 finishes classically dry and firm while leaving tart raspberry and licorice to linger. There’s an exoticism to the 2019 Piaggione that I find wildly attractive.Vinous Media | 94 VMAl-dente fruit comes through on the nose, with fresh cherries and flowers, following through to a medium body with firm, silky tannins. Tight and focused with spices, stones and berries at the end. A little reductive. Built for aging. From organically grown grapes. Needs three or four years to open and come around. Drink after 2027.James Suckling | 94 JS

Planted in 1996, La Lucére distinguishes itself from San Filippo’s other sites with its full eastern exposure and silty, sandstone soil. The 2019 harvest saw multiple passages from the end of September through to the first week of October. It takes its time to unravel, progressing from exotic and integrated oak spice and cedar forest to intense cherry and currants with hints of fennel, pressed flowers and dark chocolate. Glossy wood adds weight and breadth to a mouthful of stones and cherry pit. The tannins are smooth and tightly woven while fresh, steely acidity cuts vertically giving magnificent vibrancy. It lingers quite tenaciously, with juxtaposing bitter coffee and vanilla cherry.Decanter | 96 DECBlack cherry, cedar and dried flowers on the nose follow through to a medium to full body with chewy tannins and a savory finish. Lots of structure. Muscular and wholesome yet there’s a softness and beauty. Better after 2027.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino le Lucére is a darkly concentrated wine with black fruit and a very creamy side. There are aromas of coconut butter and vanilla that meet bakery aromas of croissant or pie crust. The oak renderings are significant, but I give it good cellar potential, as it fleshes out, especially because there is plenty of dark primary fruit to give it aging momentum.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPRich, round and juicy, this satiny and harmonious red sports cherry, plum, blackberry and chocolate flavors. Even the tannins are civilized and well-integrated, providing an overall charm. Expansive on the finish, with notes of mint, dusty mineral and spices. Best from 2026 through 2042. 800 cases made, 400 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The beautiful 2019 Brunello Ugolforte from San Giorgio is elegantly structured and delicious. Showing the intensity of the vintage but also restraint, it delivers juicy raspberry, steeped cherry, licorice and tobacco alongside smooth, velvety tannins. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: N/A Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolforte opens with a minty freshness as flint stone and dusty rose give way to crushed cherries. Silky and pliant, this possesses an elegance not often seen, with violet and lavender tones accentuating its polished red and blue fruits. This tapers off with sweet tannins balanced by an orange hint. A structured yet mouth-watering sensation lingers on. What a beauty this is.Vinous Media | 94 VMFrom the sister property of Poggio di Sotto, San Giorgio Ugolforte’s 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino takes a youthful ruby hue and is a riper style of Brunello, with rounded aromas of black raspberries, candied violets, sweet cedar, and fresh Mediterranean herbs. Medium to full-bodied, it fills the palate with ripe tannins and retains good freshness through its long finish. A lovely Brunello with a more rounded and approachable feel, it’s going to show at its best over the coming 12-15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDCherry and berry aromas with hints of sandalwood follow through to a medium body with integrated tannins that are fine and focused. Silky texture. Delicious finish. Very elegant with nice structure. From organically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but better in two or three years.James Suckling | 94 JSThere is deep black fruit and black plum on the San Giorgio 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolforte. although it takes a little patience to get there. The wine is restrained or closed initially, and it’s hard to draw anything out for the first 15 minutes or so after the bottle is opened. Once it gets going, you are treated to sweet cherry, redwood, almond biscotti and dried rose potpourri. It ages in large Slavonian oak casks.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPFrom 25-year-old vines on steep stony slopes in Montalcino’s southeast. As with its sister Brunello from Poggio di Sotto, San Giorgio sees a spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts and long maceration. Aromas are dominated by oily herbs like winter mint, rosemary and sage at this early stage. Robust and broad, this emphasises vigour over finesse but is packed with personality. Spice and chocolate join balsamic nuances on a backdrop of glossy and concentrated dark red cherry. The tannic grip gives quite a tactile experience.Decanter | 91 DEC

The iconic San Giusto a Rentennano 2019 La Ricolma remains one of the most important Merlot-based wines made in Italy—and the world, for that matter. This vintage reveals rich texture and tightly knit concentration that is layered with black cherry, earth, spice and sweet oak. These various elements are beautifully balanced against one another. This is a massively beautiful, full-bodied wine released with just 3,790 bottles. Like the other releases from this estate, it is certified organic.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPThe 2019 La Ricolma is a dark, sumptuous wine. Black cherry, plum, licorice, cloves and incense power through. Ricolma, like the other 2019s, needs time to open, as it is quite compact and tannic at this early stage. There’s good depth in the glass, if not quite the finesse of recent years. The 2019 spent 22 months in French oak, 20-25% new.Vinous Media | 96 VMA supple red, packed with bright, pure flavors of blackberry, black cherry, plum and oak spices. Reveals an interwoven mineral streak, with a long, focused finish. Best from 2025 through 2042. 200 cases made, 35 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2019 Percarlo is a wine of reserve. There’s terrific purity to the fruit and fine tannins for the year, but also a bit of firmness that needs time to resolve. Bright red-toned fruit, cedar, tobacco, licorice, blood orange and spice open nicely to play off those vibrant tannins. I imagine the 2019 will need a number of years to be at its best. The 2019 spent 22 months in a combination of 30HL casks and 500L in tonneau. Production is down about 25%.Vinous Media | 97 VMTaking a similarly dark ruby hue, the 2019 Percarlo is a little slower initially to reveal its aromas of candied raspberry, fresh leather, sweet earth, and polished cedar. Although it’s medium-bodied, it penetrates and saturates the palate with pure concentration of fruit, ripe tannins, and a fantastically long and elegant finish, with a hint of warmth and orange peel citrus. Even all the way through, this is another remarkable wine from the team at San Giusto di Rentennano that has the potential for serious longevity over the coming 15 to 20 years, so readers should be in no rush to open it.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDOne of the most celebrated expression of Sangiovese on the market today is the San Giusto a Rentennano 2019 Percarlo. This organic wine has a hint of extra ripeness or richness that transcends the bouquet. You feel as if you can bite into the fruit, and indeed the 2019 vintage is recognized by its unique power and density (with a 15% alcohol content). It’s a lot to take in, and there is enough lasting fiber and fruit power to fuel a long drinking window. This is one of the bigger and more opulent editions of Percarlo I have tasted.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPA vibrant, finely knit red, featuring black cherry, blackberry and plum fruit accented by iron, wild herbs and spices. Taut and linear, with a silky texture, lingering finish and resonant tannins. Shows terrific energy that builds from the beginning to the long, complex aftertaste. Best from 2025 through 2045. 1,375 cases made, 300 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

Intense aromas of black cherries, black truffle, orange peel and Indian spices. The palate is full yet reserved, with very fine tannins that fly linear and deep in the wine. Caressing texture. Reserved at the end. A real beauty. From organically grown grapes. Drink after 2027.James Suckling | 96 JSBalsamic aromas of camphor and pine forest mingle with truffle and plum cake on the fragrant 2019 Brunello fro San Polino. It’s also delicious, with flavors of raspberry tart, plum cake, cinnamon and nutmeg accompanied by taut, fine-grained tannins that lend seamless support. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. Drink 2027–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOFrom San Polino’s holdings in the northeast on loamy clay soil. Exuberantly youthful and becoming, the 2019 rings out with violet and oily balsamic herbs. It gives a midweight impression – yet is packed with brambly fruit. An orange peel flourish is heightened by zesty acidity. And as this opens, savoury iron depths are revealed. Promising but needs to come together. Solid, clayey tannins clamp down on the finish.Decanter | 93 DECThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino wafts up with a dusty blend of dried flowers and strawberries enhanced by lemon oil touches. This is racy and sleek with cooling acidity and vividly ripe wild berry fruits lifted by orange and cedary spice. Its acidity wins the day, maintaining amazing freshness despite the grippy tannins that resonate throughout. The 2019 finishes long and staining with a pretty air of inner violet flowers that linger. San Polino continues to raise the bar; this is lovely.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Lots of bark, forest flowers, black cherries, blackberries and baking spices in the nose. Full-bodied with layers of gorgeous tannins that coat the mouth and give an enticing silky texture that is irresistible. Juicy finish. From organically grown grapes. So beautifully already, but even better in two or three years and beyond.James Suckling | 97 JSThe compelling San Polino 2019 Helichrysum shows even more depth than the straight Brunello and more complex aromas including new leather, blue flower, cured meat, cedar, wild herb, exotic brown spice and hazelnut. Made from the estate’s highest vineyards, it’s focused and full-bodied, featuring dried cherry, blood orange, licorice and saline mineral notes. Firm, tightly-woven tannins provide the backbone while bright acidity provides energy and balance. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOA cooling, mentholated freshness introduces the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Helichrysum as black cherry, clove and dusty rose aromas evolve in the glass. This is a model of both purity and elegance, with textures of pure silk and depths of ripe wild berry fruits that are carried by a wave of vibrant acidity. The 2019 finishes incredibly long, structured and classically dry, yet still fresh, leaving a saturation of red plum and licorice under an inner floral air. The depth and concentration here are off the charts, as the Helichrysum holds its power in reserve. Be patient with this one. In a word, fantastic.Vinous Media | 94+ VM

Wow. Lots of depth and richness on the nose, with red fruit that then turns to blue and violet fruit with attractive wood and tapenade notes. Full-bodied and very layered with ripe tannins and depth and richness at the end, yet remaining fresh at the same time. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSHere is a new submission from Tenuta Sette Ponti. A pure expression of Merlot, the 2019 Sette is a blend of fruit from three vineyard sites— Cipressi, Nocetta 1 and Sorbaccio—all found on the estate. This wine is soft and velvety from the get-go with lots of black fruit and rich concentration. Black cherry, dried blackberry, sweet spice and a hint of dried mint appear on the bouquet. This is a super generous and immediate wine that puts it all out there for you to enjoy. The wine is absolutely transparent in terms of its pleasure factor. There are no hidden agendas in this true crowd-pleaser.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

Aged in 50% new and 50% second-use American Oak from the Duncan family’s The Oak cooperage in Higbee, Missouri. Matt Duncan joined me for my tasting, and he says the Petit Verdot in the blend, of which there is 0.4%, is co-fermented with the Cabernet Sauvignon, intended to bring focus to the Cabernet fruit. A compelling, brooding, muscular rendition of Cabernet from Alexander Valley with gorgeous boysenberry notes, black currants, and rose petals laced with vanillin notes and toasty oak. Medium to full-bodied with black currants, ripe blackberry and black cherry notes framed by velvety tannins laced with that irresistible vanillin note. Toasty oak spices lend a hint of sweetness, balanced by grippy acidity. Long and complex, revealing umami, garrigue, and crushed slatestone on the finish. It’s a terrific wine from the Alexander Valley.Decanter | 95 DEC

The 2019 Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet shows a deep, ruby colour. It is a beautifully compact wine that delivers complex and nuanced aromas of Bing cherry and black raspberry with tobacco, currant leaf, and cedarwood laced with dried sage. Focused and linear on the medium to full-bodied palate, showing expressive dark berry character and exotic oak spices with a firm backbone of fine-grained structured tannins. Cool raspberry, cherry, and blackberry fruit are perfectly represented, and the lengthy finish is crisp, lively, and energetic. No doubt, this is one to cellar. Exhaustive oak seasoning experiments led by winemaker Nate Weis resulted in the discovery that the American oak they age Silver Oak in when seasoned for 24 months and toasted for 90 minutes, marks the point at which the oak imparts more vanillin character and delivers better tannin integration. By contrast, the 2018 vintage was aged in American oak, seasoned for 16 months and toasted for 60 minutes. Weis explains that their experiments showed that underseasoned American oak imparts a dill character, while overseasoning results in coconutty notes, but finding a sweet spot delivers that vanillian quality winemakers look for in French oak. Taste the 2018 and 2019s side by side if you can, and note the subtle differences and shift to a more savoury profile in the 2019 vintage, with a very precise integration of oak tannin. It will be exciting to follow their progression in the cellar and see how subsequent vintages shape up in healthy and challenging harvest years.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECSo elegant, supple and silky, this vintage is a dream to drink now, but should also have plenty of life ahead of it. Aromas of blueberries and dark chocolate meld with luxe black fruit, mint and cocoa on the palate. A blend of 77% cabernet sauvignon, 18% merlot and dashes of cabernet franc and petit verdot. Drink or hold through at least 2030.James Suckling | 95 JS

Intense blackberry and graphite character coming out of the glass, together with dried violets, ink and some asphalt. Full-bodied with wonderfully integrated tannins that spread across the palate and then draw you deep into the wine. Lead-pencil and blackcurrant aftertaste. Tightly wound with a cashmere-like texture. A whole and thought-provoking wine. Try after 2028 and beyond.James Suckling | 99 JSReminding me a little of the 2009, the 2019 Château Smith Haut Lafitte has a rich, powerful style in its cassis, blueberry, and black raspberry fruit as well as its chalky minerality, smoked earth, tobacco, and lead pencil shaving-like aromas and flavors. A blend of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot, this rich, unctuously textured beauty has terrific concentration, sweet tannins, and the vintage’s hallmark elegance and finesse. One of the most concentrated, powerful wines in the vintage, it needs 4-5 years of bottle age (or a healthy decant) and will evolve for 30+ years if stored properly. Not enough can be said about what proprietors Daniel and Florence Cathiard, as well as winemaker Fabien Teitgen, continue to achieve at this estate.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThe aromatics are highly seductive, the texture silky and round, tannins relatively soft as they were in 2018, but lots of them, layering up one on top of the next. Violet rim around the edge, all the signs of an excellent quality En Primeur sample are here. Not quite as lush as the 2018, a little more like the 2016 in structure at this stage, boding well for the future. Refined in style with cassis and blueberry - good focus and concentration. Tasted twice, three weeks apart, and both times seriously impressive. 60% new oak, 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend. (Drink between 2027-2042)Decanter | 97 DECIn a line of great white wines from this estate, here is a superb vintage. It has all the richness of ripe fruit, but that has been channeled into structure, density as well as intense acidity and freshness. All the signs are this wine will age for a long, long time.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEThe 2019 Smith Haut Lafitte has turned out very well indeed, unwinding in the glass with a complex bouquet of dark berries, cassis, forest floor, pencil shavings, licorice and spices. Full-bodied, broad and velvety, it’s layered and elegantly muscular, underpinned by rich structuring tannins and lively acids, and it concludes with a long, expansive finish. This is another estate where the viticultural and stylistic evolutions of the last decade have delivered a beautifully balanced, harmonious 2019.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2019 Smith Haut Lafitte is a dense, explosive wine. Super-ripe dark cherry, plum, mocha, new leather and licorice all saturate the palate in a wine that balances unctuous texture and structure. The 2019 is an opulent Smith Haut Lafitte that is going to need a few years to shed some baby fat. It is a powerhouse to be sure. Dried herbs, leather, tobacco, incense and graphite lend striking savory nuance throughout.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGA broad, rich and caressing wine, with a lovely display of cassis, plum puree and blackberry pâte de fruit notes. There’s form thanks to a buried alder note, along with sweet tobacco and iron accents on the finish. A strong showing. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2024 through 2036. 10,000 cases made, 2,400 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 95 WS