Red Wines

wines

So pretty, charming and elegant, with floral aromas, light tannins and quiet vibrancy. Fresh raspberries, sour cherries, red cherries, rose petals and minerals give it complexity and appeal. Finesse, nerve and great balance. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSA bright red color, the 2023 Pinot Noir Roserock Zephirine offers focused and expressive notes of wild raspberries, framboise, rosy perfume, and sweet herbs. Medium-bodied, it has ripe tannins and an approachable feel, with its underlying mineral focus shining through the midpalate and finish. It’s delicious now but will only improve over the next 6-7 years and drink well over the coming 15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe 2023 Pinot Noir Zéphirine wafts up with an understated blend of dried flowers, spiced citrus and wild strawberries. A stern mineral core and brisk acidity enliven the tart wild berry fruits. Youthful tension pinches at the cheeks, leaving angular tannins and admirable freshness.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Old vines directly on the mother rock. Mid lemon yellow, a bouquet which is more about ripe citrus and maybe some herbal notes, verbena. Striking linear energy on the palate, the ripe citrus continuing through to the finish. All the Chassagne-Montrachet 1ers crus are quite different, which is a very positive point in favour of the vintage (and Adrien’s skills!) Drink from 2028-2034. Jasper Morris | 93 JMAromas of pear, pastry cream and white flowers introduce the 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers, a medium to full-bodied, ample and seamless wine that’s pure and racy.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RPA slightly cooler and airier nose is comprised by notes of just sliced citrus and apple along with pretty floral nuances. The middle weight flavors aren’t not as rich or powerful though they are finer with a subtle minerality adding a sense of lift to the vibrant, balanced and long finale that isn’t quite as complex. While this isn’t quite as interesting as the Fairendes, it still merits interest.Burghound | 91 BH

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos Saint-Jean 1er Cru was picked a couple of days earlier than the Clos des Murées. Despite being opened the evening before my visit, there is still some reduction on the nose. The palate is taut, fresh, quite nutty and Meursault-like in style with an energetic, persistent finish. Give this a year or two in bottle—it is very promising.Vinous Media | 91+ VM

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Maltroye 1er Cru has a "buttoned-down" nose that demands coaxing to reveal its yellow fruit, hazelnut and light orange rind scents. The palate is well balanced and opens up wonderfully with aeration, displaying a touch of orange rind, spice and smokiness on the finish. It’s quite mercurial and, to my senses, fascinating.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeots 1er Cru has a little more mineralité on the nose than the Vergers. Its bouquet contains light hints of clementine and beeswax aromas. The palate is well balanced, fresh and concentrated with a slightly viscous opening. It just needs a little more terroir to shape the finish.Vinous Media | 90 VM

Displays a bright lemon peel and green apple fruit, with a bottom note of flinty minerality and just a hint of smoky reduction. The texture, however, is richer than the aromas would lead one to think – it is supple and approachable, with a hint of hazelnut on the agreeable finish. The domaine farms slightly more than a quarter-hectare near the base of the slope.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECPale colour, a softer white orchard fruit on the nose, there being more clay in the soil here. The mouth retains a certain juiciness, with the apples expanding towards the back of the palate. Clean and correct. Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 90 JM

Because it is blocked by the peak known as the Roche Dumay, this south-facing slope overlooking the hamlet of Gamay does not get the sun until after 10am, but it has light into the evening, lending the fruit a slightly exotic passion fruit character. The texture is not heavy, however, and winemaker Sébastien Caillat manages both elegance and finesse, although he notes that the ripeness can jump quickly at the end of the season.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECIn the hail corridor. .En Créot does not see the sun until 10am so harder to do the treatments when there is still dew. Pale in colour with a light white fruit. Some ripe apples, middleweight, a little more mineral tension than the village wine, with good length. Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 90 JM

Lovely, supple and elegant, the Caillerets from d’Angerville seems much more approachable than usual, with rich, plummy fruit and hints of earthy minerality and rose petals. The texture is lush but not soft; acidity is balanced at best, giving this a ’drink me now’ allure that is hard to resist. The grapes are from two parcels totalling just under 1ha, located at the top of the vineyard near Pousse d’Or’s Clos des 60 Ouvrées; they are destemmed and gently fermented before ageing in cask.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECA medium crimson tint to the colour. An extrovert riper fruit on the nose, sheer beauty on the palate, a slightly darker tint to the raspberry behind. And then it all comes flooding back incrementally across the palate. “A wine which levitates”, suggests Guillaume. Very persistent indeed.Jasper Morris | 93-96 JMThe 2023 Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets is very pretty this year, wafting from the glass with notes of sweet plums, cherries and raspberries mingled with hints of licorice and peonies. Medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy, it’s satiny and sensual, its sweet core of fruit framed by melting tannins.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPThe 2023 Volnay Les Caillerets 1er Cru offers darker fruit on the nose compared to the Fremiets: black plum, raspberry and crushed stone with a light oyster shell tincture. It has fine delineation but a little more intensity. The palate is medium-bodied and harmonious with fleshy ripe tannins, gentle grip and a little tobacco coming through toward the second half. The 2023 finishes with fine length and a lightly spiced aftertaste. This Les Caillerets is on par with the previous vintage.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMA fresh, airy and decidedly spicy array combines notes of red and black cherry with those of anise, clove and sandalwood. The strikingly textured, intense and beautifully detailed middle weight flavors exude evident minerality on the balanced, lingering and more complex finale. This is both stylish and classy and a wine that should also age gracefully.Burghound | 92 BH

This deeply coloured wine from the Pommard side of the village boasts a pronounced plummy fruit with nuance from hints of wood smoke and saddle leather. The texture is firm and draws the wine to a lingering finish. The grapes are from d’Angerville’s 1.06ha parcel. The 2023 vintage has more stuffing than many, although there is no lack of charm. This wine will probably require five to seven years to show its best. A lovely success.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECA medium crimson tint to the colour. An extrovert riper fruit on the nose, sheer beauty on the palate, a slightly darker tint to the raspberry behind. And then it all comes flooding back incrementally across the palate. “A wine which levitates”, suggests Guillaume. Very persistent indeed.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPA bright and wonderfully fresh nose also offers up ripe cherry scents are laced with hints of spice and red currant. The mouthfeel of medium-bodied flavors is fine to the point of being borderline delicate while delivering good punch on the firm, serious and saline-inflected finale. Lovely.Burghound | 91 BHA medium crimson tint to the colour. An extrovert riper fruit on the nose, sheer beauty on the palate, a slightly darker tint to the raspberry behind. And then it all comes flooding back incrementally across the palate. “A wine which levitates”, suggests Guillaume. Very persistent indeed.Vinous Media | 90-92 VMA lighter crimson colour. Crushed strawberries on the nose, but no whole bunches here. More about the sensuality than precision in this wine, a riper style of fruit though not necessarily any higher in degree. A long and agreeable finish. Drink from 2030-2037. Tasted Nov 2024.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JM

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos Saint-Jean 1er Cru shows less reduction than other cuvées. This has a beautiful bouquet with white peach, citrus lemon and crushed stone, a little Puligny in style. The palate is well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity, tensile and mineral driven. A hint of popcorn appears on the saline finish. The 2023 is very promising.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMA clear pale colour and the least showing on the nose of the 1ers crus. Leaner on the palate, then a little waft of oak at the back which integrates well with the fruit even so. Precision at the back, just less easily definable character than most of the other wines. Drink from 2027-2031. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 91 JMModerate reduction is enough to overshadow the fruit today so if by chance you’re going to try a bottle young, be sure to give this some air. On the palate the barely middle weight flavors are not nearly as concentrated and while they do possess good energy and an attractive texture as well as a bone-dry, balanced and youthfully austere finish, the overall impression is a wine that is less complete. Granted, while this perfectly nice effort may well add weight with a few years in bottle, I very much doubt it will catch either the Chenevottes or Clos de la Truffière.Burghound | 90 BH

An opulent, almost voluptuous wine with ripe apple, exotic passion fruit aromas, and just an edge of reduction. The texture is creamy and dense, and the finish is impressively long. The domaine has nearly a half-hectare here in deep clay soils at the base of the premier cru band. There have been problems with the 161-49 rootstock, but the affected vines have been replaced using massal selection since they didn’t want to replant the whole plot; given these results, one can see why.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECMid lemon yellow, a discreet bouquet with a little white fruit and perhaps less gunflint than Maltroie. More apple coming out. This is lovely on the palate, some riper flavours coming out behind, with a little fresh apricot, softer and easy going as the clay kicks in. Lovely early. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 92 JMA slightly fresher and more expressive nose presents its array of cool pear, apple, citrus and a broader range of floral elements. The slightly more concentrated middle weight flavors possess a lovely texture while terminating in a clean, bright, notably dry and solidly persistent finale. I like the balance and this is compact enough to warrant at least a few years of keeping and it should repay up to a decade of it.Burghound | 91 BHThe 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Champ Gains 1er Cru was significantly reduced when I tasted it early from barrel. The palate was more expressive, with fine weight and density, perhaps without the same amplitude as the Chenevottes, though there is plenty of extract on the finish.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

Mid lemon yellow. Grilled almonds Marjolaine suggests, and I agree. Once more the flesh and the oak on the nose are apparent. All the requisite weight and white fruit, silky length, a little salinity, understated but very long indeed. Rather hidden at the moment. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Nov 2024.Jasper Morris | 93-96 JMThe 2023 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, from vines planted in 1996, had quite a bit of that matchstick reduction on the nose when I tasted it from barrel, but you can discern the concentration here. The palate is well balanced with a slightly honeyed opening. Acidity counters its richness as hints of ginger and white pepper emerge toward the finish. Powerful compared to its peers, this Grand Cru will require two or three years in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

More yellow in the colour, a waxy flesh, slight evolution in the sample, I cannot quite see the stones up front. They do appear on the palate and the wine extends very well through to a flinty finish, with some saline notes right at the back. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Nov 2024.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMThe 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet En Cailleret 1er Cru has a strict, almost sullen nose that demands coaxing from the glass, with hints of chamomile interlacing the orchard fruit, though I seek just a little more mineralité. The palate is well balanced with tropical notes of passionfruit and guava on the entry. Smooth in texture with countervailing acidity, the 2023 finishes open and easy-drinking. Drink just a year after bottling and enjoy this in its youth.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

The wonderful Corton-Charlemagne from Rapet offers pronounced apricot and quince fruit with a lemon-peel edge. The texture is rich and dense, yet balanced by a surprisingly crisp acidity for the vintage. The grapes from En Charlemagne, Chaumes et La Voierosse and Les Combes were picked on 11 September, right before the rain, and pressed as whole clusters before fermentation, mostly in 250-litre casks with a bit of foudre and one amphora. Ideally, I would age this at least 10 years and enjoy it over the next 40.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECRapet’s 2023 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with aromas of peach and pear, mingled with white flowers, wet stones, crushed mint and hazelnut. Full-bodied, satiny and layered, it’s deep and concentrated, with racy acids and a seamless, complete profile. This vintage marks a step up in texture and mid-palate volume for Rapet, and it is well worth seeking out.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPThe 2023 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru comes mainly from the lieu-dit of En Charlemagne and was matured in one-third new oak plus amphora and foudre. What a lovely bouquet! Delineated and fresh with hints of oyster shell and crushed stone, this exudes class. The palate is well balanced with fine weight, a keen line of acidity, hints of apricot and hazelnut and a poised but sustained finish. Bon vin!Vinous Media | 95 VMThe 2023 Corton-Charlemagne from Domaine Rapet Père et Fils is a beautiful young wine. It shows off superb depth and nascent complexity on the nose, soaring from the glass in a mix of pear, passion fruit, a gorgeous mosaic of limestone minerality, almond, white lilies, honeysuckle and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with a great foundation of Corton-Charlemagne minerality, bright acids, great focus and grip and a complex, impeccably balanced and very long finish. This is still a very young wine and I would try to not touch a bottle until it has had at least five or six years’ worth of cellaring. It should prove to be very long-lived. (Drink between 2030 - 2065)John Gilman | 95 JGThere are various ages of vine in the Rapet holding, with plantings in 1945 and 1950 plus 1980s and a 2018 plot. Mostly made in 350-litre barrels, plus one 12hl foudre, an egg, and a terracotta amphora. Lemon and lime, with some classic Charlemagne style fruit on the nose, a delicious lemon touch. The stones infuse the finish which is very persistent. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMThis is very firmly reduced and while the reduction does not extend to the palate, it’s clear that the nose will need extended aeration. Much more interesting are the sappy, powerful and muscular flavors that also display evidence minerality on the long, compact and balanced finale. This is one of those wines that’s difficult to rate because while the reduction may dissipate with time, that is a supposition, not a guarantee.Burghound | 91 BH

From three vineyards in the Deep End of the Anderson Valley, it’s loaded with forest character and beautiful wild florals. Wild roses, lavender and salty notes of blood orange, sweet earth and crushed stone.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThe 2023 Pinot Noir The Fog-Eater is made from grapes grown at high-elevation Clow Ridge and Valenti, where getting grapes ripe always has to contend with the fog, mingling spicy red fruit and citrus over a perfumed, savory, and textured palate of tremendous refinement and lasting freshness. Some whole-cluster doesn’t detract from the overall prettiness and transparency of the wine, adding just a hint of stemmy intrigue and a light-bodied joie de vivre. There’s structure and tannin but not too much. Drink now through 2033.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDAn aromatic and pretty wine with earth, wild herbs, mint and bay leaves on the nose. It’s fresh, with cleansing acidity that’s elegant and lifted. Cascading tannins in the finish. Medium-bodied. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2023 Pinot Noir The Fog-Eater is an absolute delight. Crushed flowers, sweet red berry fruit, chalk, mint and white pepper are all beautifully lifted in this understated, ethereal Pinot. Gracious and inviting, The Fog-Eater captures the restrained, nuanced side of the year in style.Vinous Media | 91 VMThe 2023 Pinot Noir “Fog Eater” from Drew Family Cellars is crafted from fruit sourced from three different northern Anderson Valley vineyards: Clow Ridge, Fashauer and Valenti Ranch. The soils here are sandstone and decomposing shale, with overnight fogs keeping evening temperatures low. The wine comes in at 13.5 percent octane in 2023 and included twenty percent whole clusters. The bouquet is bright, nicely red fruity and shows lovely transparency down to the soils, delivering notes of cherries, beetroot, fresh herb tones, gamebird, a fine base of soil, a nice touch of whole clusters, cedar and a lovely smoky topnote of distant bonfire. On the palate the wine is bright, young and full, with a good core of fruit, excellent soil inflection and grip, tangy acids, fine focus and grip and a long, nascently complex and very well balanced finish. This is going to be a fine bottle once it has softened up its tannins properly. (Drink between 2035 - 2075)John Gilman | 91+ JG

Black cherries, currants, leather, savory herbs, and a beautiful sense of minerality all emerge from the 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon Tierra Rioja Vineyard. I love its remarkable purity and freshness, and on the palate, it’s full-bodied with flawless overall balance, building ripe tannins, plenty of mid-palate depth, and a great finish. It’s an incredibly structured, layered, impressive beauty that deserves 4-5 years of bottle age. Drink 2029-2049.Jeb Dunnuck | 98+ JD

Contemporary and fine, vinous and fragrant, this is focused on dark fruit and fresh roses with leather and meaty depth. There is a hidden complexity that slowly reveals itself. Supple on the medium-bodied palate, this has moderate acidity and ripe, elegant tannins with slightly peppery flavors. Fruity and superjuicy with a savory aftertaste. From organically and biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSThe woodsy 2023 Teroldego lifts from the glass with a pretty mix of crushed wild berries, geranium and wet stone. This is juicy and energetic in style, with tart red berry fruits that add tactile grip. The 2023 finishes admirably long with a slight tannic tug and a floral lift. This vintage may not be the longest-lived of Foradori’s Teroldegos, but it will certainly provide a lot of pleasure in the near term.Vinous Media | 91 VM

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Champerrier is very pure and sensual on the nose, with generous red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit tones that envelop the senses. The palate is well balanced with a gentle grip, but there is more energy and greater frisson toward the finish than the Vieilles Vignes, which beckons you back for another sip. This is excellent.Vinous Media | 93 VMHere too there is just enough wood to merit pointing out suffusing the compositionally similar, if less expressive, nose. The succulent and rounded medium weight flavors still manage to retain good detail on the solidly powerful, youthfully austere and moderately rustic finish that is both compact and robust. This is an excellent Gevrey villages that is worth your interest.Burghound | 90 BH

All Grenache sourced mostly from the Chapouin lieu-dit with a splash from Janasse, the 2023 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Chaupin shows a medium ruby hue followed by a pretty, perfumed, remarkably elegant profile. It has a core of sweet red and black berry fruits, absolutely heavenly Provençal aromatics of herbes de Provence, black olive, pepper, and flowers, plus ripe, velvety tannins, flawless balance, and a great finish. Partially destemmed and aged 12 months in 70% foudre and 30% demi-muids, this heavenly 2023 will drink beautifully over the coming two decades. There are roughly 1,500 cases produced. Drink 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDAs always, a pure Grenache Noir sourced from sandy soils, the 2023 Chateauneuf du Pape Chaupin is a terrific effort. Mingling aromas of wild herbs, dark berries, baked mulberries and garrigue, it avoids the excesses of over-ripeness or overt spice, instead delivering a beautifully controlled expression. Medium- to full-bodied, dense and layered, it displays impressive concentration and a sense of coiled energy, its muscular core of fruit framed by a fine chassis of ripe tannins. The finish is long, delicately spiced and impressively persistent. This will reward patience, as time in bottle should bring greater harmony and finesse.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPHuge in scale, with a potent, warm, sappy profile. Its opulent rush of ripe cherry and licorice is well-framed by polished, firming tannins. Alder, anise and lavender smoke stream through; the finish is well-supported and reined in. Concentrated and broad-shouldered. This is for fans of the hedonistic style yet still shows drive and complexity. Best from 2027 through 2040. 3,333 cases made, 112 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSA solid, well-composed and flavorful red with cherries, sweet strawberries, warm herbs and a hint of baked orange. Full-bodied with fine tannins giving a refined texture. Juicy and driven, with a long, flavorful and well-structured finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSStrawberry compote, raspberry jam, licorice and crushed violets introduce the expressive 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Chaupin, with ripe black cherry adding more complexity. Neatly structured through firm tannins, the full-bodied 2023 packs ample flavor concentration and density, doubling down with blackberry flavors and garrigue on the long, savory conclusion. This won’t need as much time to come around as the Vieilles Vignes from the same vintage tasted alongside.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The 2023 Clos des Chevaliers from Domaine Chartron was one of the most brilliant wines I tasted during my entire nearly three weeks in the cellars here in Burgundy. The wine is utterly brilliant on both the nose and palate, with the bouquet offering up a pure, beautifully complex and elegant blend of apple, pear, fresh almond, crème pâtissière, a complex foundation of limestone minerality, lemon blossoms, a refined framing of vanillin oak and a topnote of lemon zest. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and seamlessly balanced, with a great spine of acidity, a gorgeous core of fruit, great mineral drive and cut and a very, very long, vibrant finish. Pure magic. (Drink between 2030 - 2075)John Gilman | 98 JGThe delicious Clos du Chevalier is the top wine in the Chartron cellar, boasting intense aromas of lemon peel, mandarin and passionfruit, with nuances of acacia flower and a pronounced saline minerality. The texture is lively and vibrant but rich as well, with a superb balance between the extract and the racy acidity. The clos, a former monopole of the Chartron family, is above the Montrachet from Marquis de Laguiche; although they sold 0.16ha to Lalou Bize-Leroy for its Domaine d’Auvenay, Chartron still owns a half-hectare of Chevalier here. Cellar this for at least a decade before opening.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThe 2023 Chevalier-Montrachet Clos de Chevaliers Grand Cru is Charton’s best Grand Cru this year. Intense and flattering citrus fruit notes commingle with crushed stone and light undergrowth scents blossoming in the glass. The palate is fresh, vibrant, beautifully balanced and very harmonious with a long and tender finish. Cohesive and multi-layered, très bon vin!Vinous Media | 95-97 VMAn attractive pale colour with a lime streak. Pure and stylish on the nose, with the white limestone feel of classic Chevalier. The bouquet will express itself more later on, I suspect. On the palate, the terroir also reverberates, with a very fine-boned acidity alongside the nuanced white fruit and flowers, with just a little well-judged oak bringing up the rear. A high-class finish. Very distinguished. Drink from 2030-2037. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 94-97 JMA markedly more floral-suffused nose speaks of distinctly cool white orchard fruit aromas, mineral reduction, Asian-style tea and a lovely range of spice nuances. The gorgeously textured and notably denser medium weight plus flavors exude a prominent stoniness on the sappy bitter citrus-tined finale that goes on and on. Like the Clos du Cailleret, the mouthfeel is like sucking on a small pebble and overall, this superb Chevalier should amply reward extended cellaring.Burghound | 92-95 BH

Boasts an impressive concentration of lime, passion fruit and green apple aromas, with a firm, flinty minerality. The texture is dense but not heavy and surprisingly fresh for the vintage. The complex flavours echo on an interminable finish – this is among the great successes in Puligny this year. The grapes are from the 1.16ha of old vines at the north end of the clos that the Chartron family has owned for over a century. Cellar it for three to five years and drink over the next 20.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECTo my palate, Jean-Michel’s Clos de la Pucelle is always one of the finest premier cru bottlings made in Puligny and the 2023 version is no exception. The bouquet is complex, refined and vibrant, wafting from the glass in a mix of white peach, golden delicious apple, fresh almond, chalky soil tones, crème pâtissière, vanillin oak and citrus zest in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, very pure on the attack, rock solid at the core, with fine soil inflection, a lovely spine of acidity, great focus and grip and a long, complex and racy finish. This is more reserved than the Folatières in personality today, as it should be, but will clearly hit the higher mark once it is properly ready to drink. Great juice. (Drink between 2030 - 2060)John Gilman | 94+ JGPale lemon and lime. The bouquet is fresh and chiselled, a little more herbal in style, much steelier than Folatières. On the palate one finds the Pucelles rhythm, waves of white fruit of controlled intensity, with a more mineral finish. The length also exceeds that of the excellent Folatières. Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMThe 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Pucelle 1er Cru is the monopole of the domaine. It has a more backward nose than other cuvées, with touches of orange blossoms and Granny Smith apples. The palate is well balanced, taut and fresh with a fine bead of acidity. It is tightly wound on the saline finish. This is a Puligny that will bide its time in bottle and reward those with the nous to cellar. This is very promising.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMHere too there is a suggestion of the exotic to the beautifully well-layered aromas of honeysuckle, white peach, acacia and subtle wood influence. The finer and more seductive, though less powerful and mineral-driven, flavors tighten up noticeably to become compact, serious and youthfully austere on the finale. While qualitatively similar to the Folatières, these are two very different wines.Burghound | 91-93 BH

A marvellous success, with a great concentration of pomelo, passion fruit and nectarine aromas, with a hint of white blossoms and flinty minerality. The texture is lively and crisp, but there is enough density to give this impressive length on the finish. The grapes are from the half-hectare the domaine owns here; they are lightly crushed before fermentation and ageing in cask, 30% new. Give this wine five to seven years before opening; it should last 20 years for those who have the patience to wait.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2023 Puligny-Montrachet “Folatières” from the Chartron family is an excellent wine. It was raised in twenty percent new oak this year and reveals a refined aromatic constellation of pear, apple, chalky soil tones, fruit blossoms, vanillin oak and a lovely topnote of orange zest. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, crisp and precise, with a succulent core of fruit, excellent acidity and soil signature, fine balance and a long, very elegant finish. Fine, fine juice. (Drink between 2028 - 2050)John Gilman | 93 JGThere is a whiff of exoticism to the cool aromas of citrus confit, white peach, passion fruit and acacia blossom. There is better volume to the solidly concentrated and relatively powerful medium-bodied flavors that retain good delineation on the stony, youthfully austere and serious finale that is supported by lemon-tinged acidity. This is a big, even robust, Folatières. (Drink starting 2031)Burghound | 91-93 BHThis is made from Chartron Hameau de Blagny vines (80%) plus some purchases. Pale in colour, on the leaner side, less engaging than Enseignères, quite tightly wound, a bit of white fruit but also plenty of oak. Needs a little time to come into place.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMThe 2023 Puligny-Montrachet les Folatières 1er Cru has a straightforward bouquet that doesn’t have the same degree of mineralité as the Vieilles Vignes this year. I wonder if this has more to give. The palate is taut on the entry, with satisfying weight, yet it needs a little more tension and energy on the finish.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

With the 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos Hommage à Louis, the Droins have regained the right to designate Les Clos on the label from the INAO, but they’re also continuing with the Hommage à Louis moniker. Whatever its name, the wine is lovely, opening in the glass with notes of green apple, peach and lemon mingled with iodine and toasted nuts, followed by a full-bodied, layered and concentrated palate that’s deep, dense and muscular.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2023 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru Hommage à Louis has the best bouquet amongst the Grand Crus from Droin. Very vibrant and intense, with crushed limestone and flint. The palate is well balanced with melon, grapefruit, orange rind and quince on the entry, building nicely towards a slightly oily-textured finish. I can see this aging well in bottle - more complexity on the finish compared to say, the Valmur or Grenouilles.Vinous Media | 94 VMI believe that the authorities have now confirmed that all of Benoît Droin’s plots are properly within the boundaries of Les Clos, though Benoît will continue to use the Hommage epithet alongside the vineyard name. the 2023 Hommage à Louis has a clear and classic nose after the pale lemon colour. Brilliant balanced juice, the Clos transcends the vintage. All white fruit of course but some crunch to the white apple fruit. Juicy and generous but still with a fine firm classic core. Fabulous finish. Drink from 2028-2040. Tasted Jun 2024.Jasper Morris | 94-97 JMSmoke and light wood nuances set off cool floral and spicy aromas of freshly grated citrus, white peach, honeysuckle and tidal pool wisps. There is again fine intensity to the dense and stony broad-shouldered flavors that flash fine length on the ever-so-mildly warm finale where a touch of youthful austerity slowly emerges. This refreshing effort is so rich that it should drink reasonably well young but the better choice would be to allow it to age for at least a few years as it could also use more overall depth.Burghound | 93 BH

Aromas of honeyed orchard fruits, peach and butter pastry introduce the 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles, a full-bodied, layered and unctuous wine that’s generous and enveloping. As usual, it’s one of the more gourmand, textural wines in the range.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93+ RPOvertly spicy, fresh and elegant white flower and citrus-infused aromas display good Chablis typicity. The textured and extremely rich large-scaled flavors are plush, even lush, with an abundance of sappy dry extract that stains the palate on the powerful and firm if mildly warm finale that also could use better depth. The Droin Grenouilles always ages well and the 2023 version should be no exception.Burghound | 93 BHThe 2023 Chablis Grenouilles Grand Cru has a backward nose, stoic and saying very little at the moment. Touches of powdered chalk and granite. The palate has more going on–very good body, again, slightly honeyed in texture, and gentle grip. It just misses a bit of bite on the finish, but there is impressive purity. Give it two or three years in bottle.Vinous Media | 92 VMVinified with 50% wood which marries with the spicy qualities of Grenouille. White clay gives the muscle, along with the age of the vines which were mostly planted in 1947. There are sweeter notes to the fruit, slightly reminiscent of Roussanne. The rich white fruit avoids the tropical and there is a commendably long finish. Never a shellfish wine, Grenouille can be enjoyed with seafood in a creamy sauce or indeed meat dishes. Drink from 2027-2036. Tasted Jun 2024.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JM

This exquisite wine enchants with a complex nose of lime peel, gooseberry and pear with hints of smoky reduction and a salty mineral edge. The wine is dense and compact, and its weight is perfectly balanced by racy acidity. The grapes are from 1.76ha in the blue clay soils of the Côte de Bréchain. They are crushed and fermented in tank and cask (25%). In the view of Benoît Droin, this is a ’super premier cru’ – grand cru-adjacent, like Chambolle Amoureuses and Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECAromas of citrus blossom, orange oil, white flowers, iodine and honey introduce the 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered wine that’s rich and dense. It’s a strong effort with good cellaring potential.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2023 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru has a more austere bouquet of light fumé notes mixed with petrichor–a more uncompromising aromatics than the Vaulorent, one for hardcore Chablis-lovers. The palate is taut and fresh, displaying good body and density. Very pure with a strict and persistent finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 93 VMThis too possesses just enough wood to merit pointing out on the smoky nose of white flowers, wet stone and soft quinine whiffs. The elegant, intense and focused medium-bodied flavors exude evident minerality on the unusually powerful, balanced and precise finale. This is also lovely though with the proviso that it definitely needs to develop better overall depth.Burghound | 91 BHPale in colour, quite strict on the nose. This is so much less exotic than the Mont de Milieu but it has a generous flesh through the middle, more white peach than yellow, but all very well harnessed. Crunchy finish. 30% was made in barrel. Drink from 2027-2034. Tasted Jun 2024.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM