Red Wines

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One of the finest Valbuenas available, showcasing great depth, structure and detail while remaining polished. It exhibits notes of blackberries, cocoa powder, graphite, and high-quality sandalwood, with hints of lard and violets. The standout feature this year is the quantity and quality of the tannins—huge, yet incredibly refined and polished. There are plenty of fine grits that aren’t fully integrated but should harmonize in two to three years. Exceptionally long finish. Will hold effortlessly for the next 20 years. 176,000 bottles produced.James Suckling | 98 JS

This exquisite wine has intense red and black fruit aromas with a floral edge and an almost salty savoury intensity. The texture is silky but tightly wound. It is commonly thought that the upper part of Suchots is superior, but this version gives that idea the lie. Here, the 100-year-old vines in the domaine’s 0.45-hectare parcel make the wine special, along with Van Caneyt’s very able winemaking. This wine should open well in three to five years and will undoubtedly last another 40 (at least) beyond that.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECThe 2022 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots is one of the highlights of the range this year. Wafting from the glass with aromas of plums, cassis, orange zest and exotic spices and framed by a deft application of new oak, it’s medium to full-bodied, concentrated and multidimensional, with terrific depth, velvety tannins and a long, broad finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2022 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru has an overtly floral bouquet with rose petals and violets complementing the red fruit. It’s vivacious as it was in barrel. The palate is medium-bodied with edgy, succulent tannins and iodine touches. The finish needs a little more complexity and nerve. Tasted at the Stannary Wines dinner in London with Charles van Canneyt.Vinous Media | 92 VMOnce again the nose is wonderfully fresh and even spicier with its aromas of poached plum and liqueur-like dark pinot fruit that is also tinged with exotic tea wisps. There is noticeably better density to the caressing and seductively textured yet decided powerful flavors that brim with dry extract before concluding in a moderately austere and hugely long finale. This too is quite compact and very much built to repay extended keeping.Burghound | 92-94 BHA distinguished crimson purple. The oak is a little more apparent, and the fruit a riper, fleshier raspberry. Oak continues to take a hand but the fruit stays with it. Lower acidity in the Suchots, at least by taste. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM

The 2022 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru has a very impressive bouquet with wonderful marine-inflected malic scents, quite strict and focused, leaning more to traditional old school Chablis. The palate is very well balanced with a sapid entry, linear and strict with a twist of sour lemon on the finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 93 VMCool and restrained, not showing a lot at the moment, but has a fine balance between fruit ripeness and a fine thread of acidity. Precise, this will need time. Samuel Billaud has one plot in Chapelot and one in Montée de Tonnerre.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECFresh mid lemon. Very classy on the nose, with the extra fruit-driven intensity. A brilliant core with the extra fruit from this sunny site making it more accessible. A tropical take on grapefruit promotes a lovely aftertaste Drink from 2027-2036. Tasted Jun 2024.Jasper Morris | 93 JMAn elegant, pure and beautifully airy nose presents ripe but wonderfully fresh aromas of mineral reduction, acacia blossom and oyster shell trimmed in enough wood to merit mentioning. The racy and borderline painfully intense middleweight flavors exude a bracing minerality that adds a sense of lift to the detailed, focused and lingering finale that is neither especially dry nor austere. Other than a trace of backend warmth, this is a classic MdT though one that could use better depth, so a few years of patience will be necessary.Burghound | 92 BH

Fresh bright purple. What a radiant nose, all the heady joy of Vosne, such stylish bright ripe cherry fruit with some mixed red berries behind. Seamless texture and very long. Sheer class. Tasted Dec 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMContaining 20% whole bunches, the 2022 Vosne-Romanée Village has a tightly wound and "correct" bouquet. It lets the Morey-Saint-Denis Village take the limelight at the moment, red and black fruit combined, a little more sous-bois than expected. The palate is medium-bodied with a core of lively, peppery red berry fruit, blood orange and a pinch of white pepper on the finish. A step up from the 2021, this will give a decade’s drinking pleasure.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMAn overtly spicy nose is comprised by darker fruit that includes plum and black cherry along with violet and sandalwood hints. There is a really lovely texture to the caressing but punchy middleweight flavors that deliver equally good length on the youthfully austere and even more refined finale. This too is exceptionally good for its level.Burghound | 89-92 BH

The old vines of the 0.62-hectare parcel that Dujac farms in Puligny have produced a wine of great intensity and concentration in 2022, with aromas of lemon peel and nectarines and a smoky, flinty character that is more typical of Puligny than it is of the nearby Meursault Charmes. The structure is linear and taught, but there is enough extract to ensure that this should age exceptionally well. For best results, give this wine three to five years in the bottle before opening.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes is a touch more reductive out of the gates, unwinding to reveal notes of toasted hazelnuts, pear, apple, white flowers and buttery pastry. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and chiseled, it’s more concentrated and more incisive that the Folatières and concludes with a saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-93 RPThe 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru is more nuanced on the nose than the Les Folatières, with more sharpness and a touch more nervosité coming through with aeration, which is often the case when the two are compared side-by-side. The palate is well-balanced with a vivid entry, spicier than the Les Folatières with touches of lemongrass towards the intense finish. Just need to muster a little more refinement.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMFrom 75 year old vines. Full yellow, with both some wood and some reduction on the nose. Clearly denser fruit, evident even on the nose. A broad fruit, ripe apples, with a thread of acidity which is useful given the ripe style of the fruit. Slightly longer at the finish. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JMA whiff of exoticism is present on the aromas of poached apple, lychee, white peach and mineral reduction. The finer and classier medium-bodied flavors possess good underlying tension on the stony bone-dry finish that displays slightly better length.Burghound | 91-93 BH

Complex smoky and nutty character, excellent concentration with a wonderful mineral acidity that keeps this very bright through the long, multilayered finish. No hint of anything exotic or overly ripe in spite of the ample depth.James Suckling | 96 JS

Fine lemon and lime colour. The bouquet is very alluring and signals a yellow fruit style. Guillaume thinks the plant material is earlier ripening here than in Vergers. The fruit is sunny, the finish remains all lemons and limes. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMThe 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes 1er Cru has an impressive sense of delineation and poise on the nose, yellow fruit commingling with sea spray and linseed aromas, and a touch of chai tea. The palate is well-balanced with a fine line of acidity, taut and fresh with subtle stem ginger notes towards the Meursault-like finish. Good potential.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

The 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers 1er Cru has more intensity and tension than the Chenevottes, greater mineralité coming through with aeration. The palate is taut and sapid, with satisfying mid-palate weight and a grippy finish boding well for bottle maturation. One to watch.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The 2022 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers is unusually supple and suave for this site, offering up aromas of dark berries, orange zest, peonies, vine smoke and grilled squab, followed by a medium to full-bodied, supple and velvety palate with lively acids, sweet tannins and a saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-93 RPThis is aromatically similar to the Perrières with perhaps just a touch more sauvage character in evidence. The powerful if slightly less concentrated flavors pack first-rate punch on the moderately austere, vibrant and compact finale that is also built to repay longer-term cellaring, indeed 20 years would not be a surprise.Burghound | 92-94 BHDense youthful purple, with an exceptionally youthful bouquet in concentrated fresh raspberry mode, vivid but plentiful tannins and good acidity excellent tension - this one always needs time says Bertrand. Drink from 2031-2039. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JMThe 2022 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Pruliers 1er Cru offers a mixture of red and black fruit on the nose, with background touches of wild mint and menthol, quite ripe and opulent. The palate is medium-bodied with a succulent opening. Again, overtly fruit-driven with a sorbet-fresh finish. Maybe it needs a little more finesse and Pinoté to develop in barrel? Give it three or four years.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

Small yield, very concentrated, with masses of density on the palate. Plenty of drive and energy but has finesse to balance out the power. White peach fruit characters, vibrant acidity and a pronounced mineral, salty finish. Very long future ahead. Fèvre owns 4.1ha of the 25ha total within Les Clos. Its plots situated on the top of the hill, with 50% of the vines planted by William Fèvre’s father in the 1940s and 1950s.Decanter | 95 DECMostly from old vines, a good half planted between 1948 and 1952. Translucent lemon and lime colour. The bouquet is not ready to unfurl yet there is a sense of sublime purity about the nose. A wine in perfect harmony on its wide bench of white fruit. Just a little touch of spice behind, good acidity. Sign up for this! Drink from 2032-2045. Jasper Morris | 95-98 JMThis is aromatically quite similar to the Côte Bouguerots but with more floral influence. The rich, big-bodied and tautly muscular flavors are also seemingly chiseled from Kimmeridgian, all wrapped in a wonderfully persistent, very dry, balanced and stony finale. This is also extremely impressive and equally built to repay extended cellaring.Burghound | 93-95 BHThe 2022 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a surprisingly primal bouquet with gooseberry, melon, fruits de mer and citrus peel, with more oyster shell scents developing as it opens, though never quite achieving the flair of the Valmur. The palate is well-balanced, steely and strict, with fine intensity and a saline finish. But it doesn’t quite have the precision of Fevre’s best cuvées at the moment.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

Beautiful mix of richness, grace and drive. As always with Fèvre’s Les Preuses, this is elegant, long-living and fine. Ultra-stylish and very mineral. From two sections of vines. One situated low down on Les Preuses next to Vincent Dauvissat’s plot, on the flatter part facing south, the other on deeper soils, with both adding richness and totalling 2.5ha.Decanter | 96 DECSuch a fresh lime infused colour. The bouquet shows the soft creamy riches that you can find here in Les Preuses. There is plenty of bulk but the hectare plot which drops down into Vaudésir gives the mineral tension. A little lime and lemon coats the tongue at the finish. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMThe 2022 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru is not unlike the Valmur on the nose: backward and a little sultry in style, with faint touches of crustacea coming through. The palate is more generous with orchard fruit, hints of apricot and wild peach, and fine acidity. It is very harmonious but without quite the same complexity as the Valmur on the finish. Still, this should give many years of drinking pleasure.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMA toasty nose features notes of smoky grilled shellfish, pear and algae. The dense and equally serious larger-scaled flavors don’t have quite the same power yet they are clearly more refined on the markedly bitter citrus zest finish that displays outstanding length. This is exceptionally classy and while it too could use more depth, that is all but assured if given a chance.Burghound | 92-95 BH

Bottled in late July. Pale lemon colour. A pure and fresh bouquet, mostly white fruit. Particularly stony this year behind a raft of white apple fruit, plenty of energy, starting to soften at the back. Middleweight plus, quite attractive. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 92 JM

An unusually bright, light-gold color with hints of green in it distinguish this rare wine from the first glance before rich, layered and complex aromas lead to even richer poached pears, hazelnuts and cream on the palate. Full-bodied but light on its feet, the wine shows deft balance, great depth and incredible length on the finish. Best from 2028.James Suckling | 100 JSDrouhin’s Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche is always a classic expression of Montrachet, and often among the best ’bargains’ from this site. The 2022 has exotic aromas of ripe peach, nectarine, green apple and hints of acacia flowers, star anise, and beeswax. The texture has the weight of the vineyard and a creamy opulence, yet there is enough freshness to carry the wine to a charmingly persistent finish. The grapes from the Laguiche holdings are from five parcels totalling just over two hectares, picked in three passes by the Drouhin team. (Drink between 2030 - 2070)Decanter | 96 DECStill on its fine lees. A fine fresh very pale primrose colour. Super discreet nose, just offering some light floral notes at first, but you know there is so much more to come. It is not over exuberant but the fruit comes across the palate in little wavelets, perfectly balanced acidity, the oak subsumed into the intensity of the fruit. The 2022 Marquis de Laguiche Montrachet bows out with a wonderfully long and fine finish. Drink from 2034-2045. Tasted: November 2023.Jasper Morris | 96-98 JMThe 2022 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru was harvested in three picks this year. Exhibiting aromas of pear, peach, honeycomb, toasted nuts, baking spices and buttered toast, it’s full-bodied, ample and unctuous, with a richly layered core of fruit, lively acids and a long, resonant finish. Tasted from a barrel sample before an aerating racking, it displayed fine tension.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96 RPSmoky notes of mineral reduction add breadth to the cool and airy nose of mildly exotic white peach, citrus confit and a plenitude of floral wisps that are trimmed in discreet oak influence. The refined medium weight flavors possess good if not genuinely special density but with a positively gorgeous texture that carries over to the stony bitter lemon zest finale that possesses stunningly good length and terrific complexity. This is very classy and a wine that I suspect will add weight with bottle aging.Burghound | 93-96 BH

Welcome to this smoky and flint Chablis masterpiece that’s only just beginning to reveal it’s enormous depths. Stunning balance and purity on the full-bodied but extraordinarily fresh palate. Great drive at the compact and very clean finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2023.James Suckling | 96 JSLike the Dame Nature Chablis, there is a touch of phenolic character lurking in the background of the aromas that blend white orchard, mineral reduction, shrimp shell with an interesting hint of something akin to a bitter almond nuance. There is again excellent mid-palate density to the very rich, even opulent, larger-bodied flavors that coat the palate with sappy dry extract on the firm, compact and built-to-age finale. At least some patience strongly advised as this is a relatively structured wine in the context of the 2022 vintage.Burghound | 91-94 BHThe 2020 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru spent 14 months in oak and stainless steel vat. It has a clean and precise bouquet with lime, orange pith and light stony aromas, perhaps missing a touch of flair yet it is clearly well defined and gains intensity with time. The palate is well balanced with an ever so slightly honeyed entry. Quite fierce, lightly spiced with hints of vanilla and almond, the only real shortcoming is that it seems to fade prematurely on the finishVinous Media | 90 VM

This exotic wine boasts aromas of passion fruit, pomelo and ripe yellow plums, touched with oyster shell and a hint of smoky reduction. There is rewarding richness here, but there is also plenty of fresh acidity and energy on the palate. The grapes are from the white marl soils of the well-protected, south-facing slopes in the village of Fleys, not far from the Mont de Milieu; it is one of the warmest premier cru sites on the right bank of the Serein. Open this wine in five years and drink it over the next 20.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECExotic floral notes, passion fruit, nashi pear and gooseberry introduce the bottled 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Les Fourneaux, a medium- to full-bodied wine that is elegantly fleshy yet taut and vibrant, concluding with a persistent, grapefruit-inflected finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2023 Chablis Les Fourneaux 1er Cru has an airy, crushed stone- and flint-tinged bouquet that seems to have veered toward a more classical and sapid style since bottling. The palate is bright, well balanced and taut, with lime on the entry and a dash of white pepper toward the finish. Give this 18 to 24 months in bottle to show what it is capable of.Vinous Media | 92 VMA little lemon touch to the nose. Retains a cool clarity, then riper lemon scented fruit on the palate and a nicely balanced finish. Attractive stony rather than saline notes to finish. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Jun 2025.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

The recently bottled 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is another success for Samuel Billaud, unfurling aromas of nashi pear, iodine, gooseberry and grapefruit. Full-bodied, ample and satiny, it offers a layered mid-palate framed by tangy acids and concludes with a long, saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93+ RPThe 2023 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru has a vivacious bouquet that’s more complex than the Montmains. It’s delineated and focused with wonderful mineralité, scents of lime flower, citrus peel and orange blossom. The palate is very well balanced with a quicksilver line of acidity, fine depth and a harmonious, saline finish. The 2023 is beautiful.Vinous Media | 93 VMThis lively, fresh expression of Montée de Tonnerre features aromas of gooseberry and cream with a suggestion of oyster shell; a salty, mineral tang arrives at the end on the palate. The texture is silky and very fine. The grapes are from several parcels totaling 2.15ha in the lieux-dits of Pied d’Aloup and Côte de Bréchain. In 2023, they were gently pressed and fermented exclusively in tank to preserve the freshness of the fruit.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECJust bottled. A clear lightly lemony nose. A sense of considerable weight behind. This has a grander structure than the Mont de Milieu while retaining an even more mineral central backbone. Strikingly long finish. But keep this for years! Drink from 2027-2034. Tasted Jun 2025.Jasper Morris | 93 JMAn elegant, pure and airy and more floral-suffused nose possesses more obvious Chablis character with its wet stone, shellfish, brine and iodine-suffused aromas. There is more refinement, if less volume and power, to the beautifully textured middle weight flavors that conclude in a sneaky long, balanced and altogether classy finale. Lovely stuff.Burghound | 92 BH

The 2023 Chablis Les Séchets 1er Cru has a detailed and mineral-driven bouquet that evokes images of the dark and stormy sea. This has wonderful salinity—it really benefits from no wood contact. The palate is old-school Chablis, with green apple and pear scents. It’s a little strict, yet there is real depth and grip here. The 2023 is very complex and long on the finish, but it’s 100% Chablis in style. Outstanding.Vinous Media | 94 VMJust bottled, after 18 months in tank. Not too dry and stony, though savoury in the best sense. Samuel’s Séchet is one of the great expressions of Left Bank Chablis, with its tightly wound finish and controlled salinity. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Jun 2025. | 94 JMRestrained aromas of citrus confit, iodine, spice and apple give way to strikingly textured and slightly denser medium-bodied flavors that flash evident power that builds on the bitter lemon-inflected finish that is markedly dry, sleek and balanced. The Billaud Séchet is virtually always excellent and the 2023 vintage should be no exception. (Drink starting 2031)Burghound | 93 BH

Top notes of lanolin and vanilla are backed by honeysuckle, peach and lemon tart flavors in this youthful white. With air, this gains freshness and elegance, leaving a salty, mineral element to mingle with the oak spice on the finish. Best from 2027 through 2038. 60 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThere is a lovely, opulent balance between the richness of this wine and the elegance of its acid structure. The initial attack is redolent of grapefruit and quince with hints of hawthorn flowers and chalk. The texture is tightly wound and powerful, yet the wine is silky and very fine, even at this stage. The grapes are from the heart of the Vaillon lieu-dit and were planted in 1933 by Fabien Moreau’s grandfather Guy. One third was fermented in cask, two-thirds in tank; aged for a total of 18 months before bottling.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECThe 2023 Chablis Vaillon 1er Cru Cuvée Guy Moreau, which comes from 90-year-old vines, did not finish its fermentation until the following June. It is a little broader on the nose compared to the regular cuvée and this displays a touch more depth. The palate is well balanced and fresh with a bead of acidity and hints of toffee apple and white peach toward the finish. This is very fine.Vinous Media | 91 VMHere too a whiff of the exotic can be found on the slightly riper and lightly oaky aromas of pear, apple and citrus confit plus just enough Chablis typicity to be interesting. As is usually the case, the old vines are in evidence on the middle weight plus flavors thanks to the abundance of sappy dry extract that coats the palate on the seductively textured finish. This does however need better depth so at least some patience is recommended.Burghound | 91 BHLively lemon and lime. The oak ageing means that the bouquet is more hidden in youth. There is a suggestion of greater depth of fruit, along with a little biscuity touch. Some decent acidity, but soft white fruit and flesh dominates the palate. Fair length, not so much tension. Hovering on 13% alcohol. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Jun 2025.Jasper Morris | 90 JM

Broad and densely textured, with flavors of peach and apple, but mostly vanilla and lanolin from the oak. This is less expressive and focused than its peers yet shows staying power, echoing the oak spice on the finish. Best from 2027 through 2037. 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSPale in colour with a green tint. The Vaillons has kept its fresh kimmeridgian nose, though the palate is softer and fleshier, in white fruit, than a Chablis of the past. A little lick of iodine on the stones to finish. This wine has retained some tension, without recourse to acidification, because the malolactic was partially blocked. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Jun 2025.Jasper Morris | 91 JMThe 2023 Chablis Vaillon 1er Cru, which did not complete malolactic fermentation to retain acidity, has a vivacious, flinty nose that leaps from the glass. The palate is well balanced with a steely opening. Seductive lemon thyme and orange pith notes come through on the mid-palate, with a dab of ginger that enlivens the finish. The 2023 is very fine.Vinous Media | 90 VMVague whiffs of the exotic and a phenolic hint lurk in the background of the aromas of pear, citrus rind and discreet spice nuances. There is both more volume and refinement to the nicely concentrated medium-bodied flavors that possess better depth on the equally lightly austere finish that offers a bit more persistence.Burghound | 90 BH

Pale lemon with a lime tint. The bouquet is sublime, with all the class of Clos yet in a refined way. The marine fossils are at work. There is adequate flesh but it is better controlled here, leading to a tighter finish. Understated, showing the sunshine in a balanced form, and pleasingly persistent. Drink from 2027-2036. Tasted Jun 2025.Jasper Morris | 94 JMRipe, elegant and relatively cool aromas include those of acacia, oyster shell, iodine and a slightly more moderate dollop of wood that can also be found on the intense big-bodied flavors that exude evident minerality on the impressively long finale where the only nit is a touch of warmth. I would add that the wood influence is sufficient such that there is a borderline tannic quality to the finish. Patience strongly advised.Burghound | 93 BHThis is a ripe style, revealing a flash of pineapple, along with peach, mirabelle plum and melon, plus a hint of seashore. Unfolds effortlessly on the palate. Fresh finish. Drink now through 2033. 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThe 2023 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a neutral, stony nose that is outperformed by the Valmur this year. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. Fresh clementines intermix with gooseberry and red apple notes. It is quite peppery and admirably persistent toward the finish. Give this a couple of years in bottle.Vinous Media | 91+ VM

The Valmur from Domaine Christian Moreau is a vivacious wine with abundant aromas of ripe pear and melon, hints of acacia blossoms and spice underpinned with a flinty minerality. The texture has tension and snap, yet there a rich, almost plump side here that remains perfectly balanced with the crisp acidity; the finish echoes with a hint of ’beautiful bitterness’. The grapes are mostly from the 0.70ha parcel facing southeast; there is a bit from the northeast-facing side for balance. Undoubtedly charming on release, this will effortlessly age for 20 years or more.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThe 2023 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru is more old school, with greener, apple-like fruit. It’s quite stony and more reserved than the Vaudésir. The palate is fresh and vibrant, with a lively thread of acidity. This is composed, with a dash of spice toward the finish that has put on a bit of weight since last year. The 2023 is very promising.Vinous Media | 93 VMBroad and shaded by oak spice, this white exhibits lemon, apple, honeysuckle and salty mineral flavors, all delineated by lively acidity. Fades briefly before returning with echoes of fruit and flowers on the finish. Best from 2027 through 2040. 20 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA pungent nose of smoky reduction, citrus and moderate wood toast is all that can be discerned at present so be sure to give this some air if you’re tempted to open a bottle young. Otherwise, the rich, powerful and concentrated broad-shouldered flavors also possess plenty of sappy dry extract before concluding in a lemony, dry and moderately austere finale. This is a big and firmly structured wine that is quite promising.Burghound | 93 BHPale lemon and lime colour. A tighter bouquet with a light reduction. Good tension here, thanks to the lower alcohol perhaps. Some muscles but all in a discreet fashion. 12.3% alcohol. Drink from 2027-2036. Tasted Jun 2025.Jasper Morris | 93 JM

Very pale with a green tint. Immediately saline on the nose. Medium bodied, white fruit, greater intensity at the finish and just a little bit more tension which is a bonus. 12.8% alcohol. Drink from 2027-2036. Tasted Jun 2025.Jasper Morris | 93 JMThe 2023 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru has a tightly wound bouquet with scents of tangerine, freshly picked gooseberry and flinty aromas. The palate is taut and fresh, mixing red apple with orange rind and light white tea notes. This is a well-crafted Vaudésir with satisfying weight on the finish.Vinous Media | 92 VMA ripe style, this white offers peach, apple and light citrus flavors, with a stony, mineral undertow. Starts out plump and fleshy, then the cleansing acidity sweeps in. Excellent length. Drink now through 2033. 20 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSA deft application of wood sets off ripe but not really exotic aromas of white peach, acacia, citrus zest and a touch of algae. There is both fine intensity and a lovely texture to the mineral-driven medium weight flavors that deliver very good length on the balanced, refined and notably more complex finale. Lovely.Burghound | 92 BH

This is even cooler and more restrained as the nose only grudgingly reveals its aromas of mineral reduction, green apple, spice, acacia blossom and a deft touch of wood. The gorgeously textured medium weight flavors brim with both minerality and sappy dry extract that buffers the youthfully austere and even more persistent finish. This too is very classy and a classic Clos de la Mouchère of grace and poise. If you can find it, buy it.Burghound | 95 BHA fuller yellow here, and an extra degree of completeness, more weight and almost all the class. The oak is still at 50% new and is very well integrated. Gorgeously rich, with little fruits dancing through a meadow. Once again, I do see the magic of this. Henri was strongly advised by his father to look after “Madame de la Mouchère”. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 94-97 JMThe 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru is another very classy wine. Vertical in feel, the 2023 is super-bright from the outset. White pepper, flowers, mint, sage and pear reinforce that impression. Readers will find an airy, deceptively mid-weight Puligny that possesses remarkable depth.Vinous Media | 93-95 VM

There is a ripe apple and apricot fruit aroma, lush buttery notes and a hint of spice. The texture is very rich in a classic Bâtard style. Winemaker Lucie Coutoux explained that they did a strict green harvest in July, cutting back to five to six bunches per vine, which pushed the ripeness forward, and thus, this was harvested first. She used her usual techniques: crush the grapes and slowly press them, running the must into barrel (25% new) with all of the lees. 2023 is the first vintage for Niellon since replanting the Bâtard-Montrachet in 2016. The results are spectacular.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECHere too there is a smoky note to the spicy and markedly floral-suffused nose of various white orchard fruit aromas, especially pear, along with a subtle if still easily perceptible wood nuance. Like several wines in the range, the medium weight flavors are not monsters of concentration but they do possess a sleek texture along with a lovely sense of underlying tension on the dry and balanced finale. While not quite what it used to be, it’s good to have an old friend back!Burghound | 93 BHIts back! Very young vines, needed a green harvest, in fact twice as the grapes compensated after the first. Took off half, so the vine could look after itself. 0.1190, 2273 for Chevalier. Had to pick first, with acidity declining. Pale colour, toasty nose. A lovely quality of fruit right away on the palate, less energy behind, or indeed length, only to be expected. The barrel toast remains, so look to a promising future. Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 93 JMThere are three barrels of the 2023 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, whose vines were replanted in 2020 after being pulled up in 2015. Half the bunches were taken off in July before véraison to control vigor, and the pH is a little higher than other cuvées. There is some reduction on the nose, but you can feel the nascent energy. The palate is well-balanced with a richer, slightly more viscous texture than the Chevalier-Montrachet, powerful and long with a dash of spice on the finish. Of course, this is the opening chapter of the vineyard, and you can feel that it’s not full power, but it represents a promising return.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

A beautifully layered nose subtly blends notes of poached pear, just sliced apple, spice and a touch of citrus confit. There is an equally beautiful texture to the seductive and caressing medium weight flavors that possess sneaky good length on the balanced finale. This is lovely and while it’s not particularly intense, it remains refreshing and inviting as well as a wine that could be enjoyed on the younger side if desired.Burghound | 92 BHThe 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Chenevottes 1er Cru has a lovely bouquet with citrus peel and light floral scents. It’s a little more reductive than other cuvées, but that’s no bad thing. The palate is well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity, building nicely in the mouth with just a hint of peach skin on the finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMPale lemon and lime. There is a touch of citrus with the minor reduction. Firm at the finish which is no bad thing as there is a considerable volume of white orchard fruit which needs to be kept in place. Easy of access once again. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 91 JM