Red Wines

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A heady seductive nose, rich ripe full fruits on the nose with a gentle and inviting pot pourri nose. Lovely freshness here and seering, mouthwatering cherry juice flavours - acidity is marked but in a really well balanced harmonious way. Just great energy and brightness. No massie complexity but what is delivered is excellent quality fruit that has been well handled. One for earlier drinking to enjoy the pretty, balanced and bright wine. Bordeaux at its most approachable. (Drink between 2023-2033)Decanter | 92 DECCurrant, berry and tobacco aromas and flavors with some thyme and coffee bean. Full-bodied, chewy and polished. Needs time to soften. Try after 2024.James Suckling | 92 JSThe 2019 Sénéjac is a complex, beguiling Haut-Médoc. Sweet pipe tobacco, cedar, mint, licorice, dried herbs, menthol, dried flowers and mint are some of the many aromas and flavors that lift from the glass. Sénéjac offers unreal complexity and tons of energy that continues to build through to a long, beautifully persistent finish laced with expressive savory top notes.Antonio Galloni | 91 AGVinified by Château Talbot’s Jean-Michel Laporte, the 2019 Sénéjac delivers aromas of smoky blackberries, pencil shavings and loamy soil, followed by a medium to full-bodied, lively and charming palate framed by fine tannins and concluding with a saline, mouthwatering finish. It’s a fine effort that comes recommended.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

The 2020 Baron de Brane is a heady, exuberant wine. Dark red/purplish fruit, mocha, chocolate, lavender, spice and new leather are all beautifully delineated. Fine tannins, lifted aromatics and succulent fruit are all very nicely balanced. The 2020 is quite flashy yet retains a good bit of energy, too, with floral top notes that lift the finish nicely. It’s a gorgeous second wine from Henri Lurton and Brane-Cantenac.Vinous Media | 92 VMAttractive aromas of dark and blue fruit, some violets, walnut and graphite. It’s medium-bodied with finely grained tannins and a delicate, vivid blue fruit character. Chalky finish. Try after 2024.James Suckling | 92 JSTight berry fruits from the first nose, blackberry and bilberry. An impressive Baron de Brane with concentration and poise, juice through the finish and careful extraction so that the plentiful tannins are not intrusive. Good stuff, if austere. Another wine where the word classic seems to work.Decanter | 91 DECThe second wine of the estate, the 2020 Baron De Brane is a softer, more rounded, mouth-filling Margaux offering plenty of ripe, dark fruits, velvety tannins, and medium to full-bodied richness. It doesn’t have the precision or length of the Grand Vin, but it offers lots of character.Jeb Dunnuck | 88-90 JD

A return to form in my eyes for Calon Ségur after the atypical 2018, rippling with elegance, balance and savoury blue fruits of Cabernet, with rose and peony flowers. Concentrated, chiselled and juicy, this has clear personality and equals the great, classically balanced vintages of Calon like 2016. A yield of 33hl/ha, 3.85pH, 100% new oak. Vincent Millet is now overall director as well as technical director, since the departure of Laurent Dufau in 2020. Drinking Window 2029 - 2048.Decanter | 98 DECThe powerful tannins of this wine cannot mask the beautiful fruits and acidity. Rather the tannins enhance them, giving structure to the wine’s fine blackberry fruitiness that leaves a refreshing character at the end. With this structure the wine will take its time and will need to age for many years.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEThe 2020 Calon-Ségur is a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. It is aging in 100% new French oak barrels for an anticipated 18 to 20 months. The alcohol is 13.8%. Displaying a deep purple-black color, it straight away springs up with bright scents of freshly picked black raspberries, kirsch and blackberries, needing considerable swirling to reveal a vast array of nuances—rose oil, cardamom, iron ore, graphite, lavender and aniseed. The medium-bodied palate has a solid structure of firm, ripe, grainy tannins and plenty of freshness supporting the tightly wound red and black fruit layers, accented by lots of mineral and floral sparks, finishing with impressive length and depth. Beautiful, beautiful wine!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97+ RPThe flagship 2020 Château Calon Ségur is also brilliant and certainly brings up the intensity, depth, and richness, although it’s nowhere near the exotic, almost over-the-top style of the 2018. Gorgeous crème de cassis, tobacco, roasted coffee beans, lead pencil, and sappy herbs all define this beauty, which is full-bodied, beautifully balanced, and has incredible purity of fruit. It might have some up-front appeal as well, yet smart money will hide bottles for at least 7-8 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 95-97 JDTobacco and tea aromas with currants and wet earth. Full-bodied and chewy with blackcurrant flavor. Tannins build on the finish with lots of structure and intensity. Quite muscular.James Suckling | 95-96 JSThe 2020 Calon Ségur is a dark, brooding wine that is going to need a number of years to become approachable. Black fruit, gravel, smoke, chocolate, leather and licorice give the 2020 its distinctly virile feel. In two separate tastings, the 2020 has come across as quite potent and forbidding. This sample is more convincing than a sample I tasted this past spring, but I still don’t see Calon-Segur as having reached the level that has become customary over the last few vintages.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The 2020 de Camensac is a beautiful, Cabernet Sauvignon-driven Haut-Médoc loaded with savory intensity and energy. Dried herbs, tobacco, menthol, plum, chocolate and earthy notes all run through this classically build, mid-weight Haut-Médoc. Give the tannins a few years to soften. This is impressive.Vinous Media | 92 VMAttractive aromas of black cherries and blackberries with dark chocolate, black licorice, cedar and wet earth. Some raw mushroom, too. Medium- to full-bodied with very fine and slightly chewy tannins. Lingering finish. 53% cabernet sauvignon and 47% merlot. Drink from 2025.James Suckling | 92 JSA strong effort from this improving estate, the 2020 Camensac reveals aromas of rich cherries, cassis and truffle framed by a deft touch of creamy new oak. Medium to full-bodied, deep and impressively concentrated, it’s attractively pure, with powdery tannins and a vanillin-inflected finish. Give it a little time to digest its élevage, and it will offer excellent drinking.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPDense tannins and dark chocolate flavors already highlight the wine’s texture. That’s at the expense of some of the fruitiness that should be in the background. This suggests it will develop with a dry core that will need to soften.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WE

This has aromas of currants, blackberries, licorice, pine needles and peppercorns. It’s medium-bodied with refined, tightly knit tannins. Elegant and poised, with a fine finish. Second wine of Talbot. Drink from 2025.James Suckling | 92 JSThe 2020 Connétable Talbot is matured in 15% new oak. It has a fresh blackberry and briary scented nose with tobacco scents emerging with time. The palate is fresh and energetic, quite chiseled tannins, a little chalky in texture with a graphite-tinged finish. This punches above my expectations and is well worth seeking out.Vinous Media | 90 VM

You need to take a little time to let the concentrated flavours seep out, this is a long hauler. The tannins build slowly but surely through the palate, sombre and serious right now, particularly for an estate that is known for its exuberance. The opulence is there if you give it time, and as the tannins elongate and relax, richer notes of bilberry fruits, toasted cedar, salted chocolate, turmeric and black pepper spice arrives. Harvest September 10 to 24. A 3.9pH is the highest since 2003, but any threat of low acidity is balanced by high tannins, and relatively low alcohol. A yield of 39hl/ha (43hl/ha in 2019). Drinking Window 2027 - 2044.Decanter | 97 DECThis is a very refined, polished Cos with superb finesse and length. Medium-to full-bodied, very fine and persistent. Really long with beautiful tannins. Rich, but fresh and linear. Yet, the alcohol is around 13.5%. 62% cabernet and 38% merlot.James Suckling | 97-98 JSPowerful, ripe fruits show exceptional quality and a velvety character that’s allied to a ripe structure. With the freshness so typical of the vintage, the wine seems open and fruity but surprises with its density.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEThe 2020 Cos d’Estournel is composed of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon and 38% Merlot. The harvest took place September 10–24 with a yield of 39 hectoliters per hectare. The alcohol weighs in at 13.46% with a pH of 3.9 and an IPT (total phenolic index) of 80. It is being aged in French oak barrels, 55% new.Deep purple-black in color, it pops with explosive scents of ripe red and black currants, black cherry preserves and black raspberries, followed by sparks of violets, wild sage, pencil lead and clove oil, with emerging hints of iron ore and damp soil. The medium-bodied palate has amazing elegance and grace contrasted by jaw-dropping energy, featuring a firm frame of finely grained tannins and just enough freshness, finishing with a whole firework display of mineral nuances. I love the way this Cos d’Estournel shimmies and shines—a unique vintage signature expressed so beautifully at this estate!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98 RPThe Grand Vin 2020 Château Cos D’Estournel is based on 62% Cabernet Sauvignon and 38% Merlot that was brought up in 55% new French oak. An inky-hued, concentrated, yet flawlessly balanced wine, it has gorgeous cassis and dark currant fruits, medium to full-bodied richness, ripe, building tannins, and just a wonderful sense of purity and elegance backed up by ample concentration. It stays tight, focused, and seamless, and is a brilliant example of the vintage. The 2020 hit 13.4% natural alcohol with a pH of 3.9 and an IPT of 80.Jeb Dunnuck | 95-97+ JDThe 2020 is a gorgeous wine from a very unusual year in which the Merlot is a bit more prominent in the blend than usual because of dehydration in the Cabernet. Even so, the 2020 is a wine of mid-weight finesse more than opulence. All the elements are impeccably balanced throughout.Vinous Media | 94-96 VM

A powerful wine that is full of dark black fruits as well as hints of dark chocolate. The tannins and the clear black currant are two fine elements of a wine that will have density and richness as it develops.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEOffering up aromas of sweet mulberries and blackberries mingled with hints of licorice, violets and red fruit compote, the 2020 de Fieuzal is medium to full-bodied, rich and gourmand, its broad attack segueing into a supple, layered mid-palate that’s framed by ripe acids and sweet, powdery tannins. This is a deeper, more powerful Fieuzal than its 2019 counterpart.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPFrom a château that deserves more recognition in the market, the 2020 Château De Fieuzal is a brilliant Pessac- Léognan based on 65% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Petit Verdot raised in 60% new barrels. It has a gorgeously pure nose of cassis, ripe black cherries, violets, spice, and scorched earth. This carries to a medium to full-bodied, seamless, layered wine with ripe tannins, plenty of mid-palate depth, and a great mix of richness and elegance. It deserves 4-5 years in the cellar and will drinking incredibly well over the following two decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDRuby red, plenty of red fruit aromatics also, savoury redcurrant and raspberry, not as concentrated as some, this has sinew and juice, a little austere, but I like the floral aromatics as it opens. A fairly subdued Fieuzal, structured with excellent juicy tension but not generous at this point. Tasted twice. 14 months ageing.Decanter | 94 DECAttractive aromas of ripe dark berries, sweet spices, nut shell, fine herbs and graphite. Full and opulent palate with an array of plush, fine-polished tannins which coat the mouth. Succulent dark fruit character beneath. Fresh, long-lasting and flavorful with a firm finish. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 93 JS

The 2020 Ferrière is tremendous. Dark fruit, lavender, gravel, incense and dark spice are some of the many notes that develop. A wine of vertical, explosive energy, Ferrière is fabulous. The tannins are bruising today, so readers will have to be patient, but all the ingredients are there for the 2020 to be superb. There is a feeling of unrestrained wildness in the Ferrière that is hugely appealing.Vinous Media | 95+ VMComplex aromas of crushed berries, walnuts, wet earth and spice follow through to a full to medium body, chewy yet juicy tannins and a savory finish. This needs time to soften but I like the character and intensity. 68% cabernet, 27% merlot, 3% petit verdot and 2% cabernet franc. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink after 2025.James Suckling | 95 JSThis wine has a dense character, with rich fruits and blackberry flavors heightened by the tannins. Because of the heat of Margaux, the wine is rich while always elegant. Drink from 2027. Organic and biodynamic.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WESeductive fragrance on the nose, perfumed, clean and pure. Rich yet direct too, I like the sleekness with clarity, energy and a vibrancy to the dark fruits edged with clove and liquorice. Tannins are firm and grippy, taking hold of the palate, showing off the muscular side. Feels well made with a full body and persistence from start to finish. Nicely approachable.Decanter | 94 DECA serious, structured vintage, the 2020 Ferrière unwinds in the glass with aromas of sweet cherries, berries and plums mingled with raw cocoa and violets. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, with excellent concentration and plenty of powdery tannin that asserts itself on the youthfully firm finish. This blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot, derived from a very high proportion of old vines, is a real success, but it will require patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93+ RP

Tobacco, dark chocolate and scented flowers on the nose - beautiful aromatic display. Ripe and concentrated fruit but with clarity and precision alongside savoury elements of coffee, cola and creamy blackcurrants. Tannins are rich and grippy edged by liquorice and a salty minerality giving St-Julien typicity. Charming with energy and poise.Decanter | 94 DECThis is poised and elegant with notes of bitter chocolate, crushed walnuts, black peppercorns, blackberries and blackcurrants. It’s medium-bodied with silky tannins and layers of fresh black fruit. Classy. Try from 2026.James Suckling | 94 JSUnder the same ownership as neighboring Château Saint-Pierre, this estate produced a fine, stylish wine that will develop well. The outlines are already there with spice and black currant fruits underling the tannic structure. Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThe 2020 Gloria is the last vintage before the estate moved completely towards organic farming. It has a lovely bouquet with blackberry, raspberry, orange rind and sous-bois aromas, precise and focused. The oak is nicely integrated here (40% new). The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, harmonious and poised, just a little soy in the background, almost understated towards the finish that gently fans out. It might drink a little earlier than I estimated from barrel, but it’s going be a gem.Vinous Media | 93 VMYouthfully taut and well-structured, with singed apple wood and licorice root notes holding a core of red currant, dark plum and blackberry fruit in check for now. Reveals a nice racy graphite underpinning on the finish. One for the cellar. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2026 through 2038.Wine Spectator | 93 WSJust about a perennial must-buy, the 2020 Château Gloria is another terrific vintage for this Saint-Julien château, which always seems to turn out a fabulous wine that sells for a great price. Sporting a deep purple hue as well as impressive aromatics of ripe blackcurrants, plums, camphor, smoked tobacco, and gravelly earth, it’s a wine that blossoms with time in the glass. (I followed this bottle for multiple days.) Medium to full-bodied on the palate, it has beautifully polished tannins, outstanding balance, and the more focused style of the vintage. Tasted twice with consistent notes.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDRich, generous and demonstrative, the 2020 Gloria bursts with aromas of cherries, sweet berries, plum liqueur and cigar wrapper. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and generous, it will offer a broad drinking window.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

Lots of smoky oak, ripe blackcurrants, blueberries, tobacco, and chocolaty notes emerge from the 2020 Château Kirwan, a richly textured, medium to full-bodied Margaux. A wine that blossoms with time in the glass, it’s a plush, sexy, yet brilliantly balanced 2020 offering velvety tannins and a great finish, and while the oak is preset right on opening, it integrated beautifully with air. This beauty is going to put a smile on your face any time over the coming 20-25 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDGorgeous nose, full of dark bramble fruits and dark chocolate and flowers. Round and energetic with a core of intensely concentration blackcurrants, plums and black cherries. Lovely refinement here, sleek, satisfying, clean, precise. Great drive from start to finish, this has both a satisfying wight and texture - plump but not too much, mineral and salty but not too much. Glamour and confidence. A lovely wine, still youthful but expertly delivered. Just so juicy and alive, refreshing, vibrant and concentrated. Really very stylish. Decanter | 94 DECAttractive nose of hazelnuts, chocolate, blueberries, blackcurrants, peach pits and sandalwood. Hints of olives and mushrooms, too. Complex, layered and integrated, with a medium to full body and powdery tannins. Long and savory at the end. Drink from 2025.James Suckling | 94 JSExhibiting aromas of sweet black fruits and licorice mingled with hints of creamy new oak, the 2020 Kirwan is medium to full-bodied, deep and fleshy, with polished tannins, notably tangy acids for the vintage, and a suave, seamless profile despite its creditable concentration. In terms of aromatic purity and managed extraction, this is the finest Kirwan for some time.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RPThe 2020 Kirwan has quite an expressive nose with blackberry, mint, incense and touches of orange zest. It gains intensity with aeration, quite open and expressive. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine delineation, balanced and poised with ample concentration on the finish. Fine precision here, a really quite excellent Kirwan.Vinous Media | 92 VMA velvety, seductive style, with warmed plum and black currant confiture laced with worn cedar, smoldering black tea and violet. Shows a subtle sanguine twinge at the very end that adds lift. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2026 through 2036. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 8,333 cases made, 1,666 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2020 La Dame de Montrose is fabulous. Rich, dense and expansive, the 2020 offers notable vibrancy and a good bit of energy too. Bright acids cut through a core of red/purplish fruit in what is an intense, wonderfully saline Dame. The 2020 finishes with remarkable elegance and sophistication.Vinous Media | 94 VMSoft purple flowers on the nose, quite perfumed and seductive tones with ripe black fruit, peonies, blueberries and plums. Rich and supple, round with mouthwatering acidity - clean and crisp, steely and mineral with a core of crushed stones, pencil lead, slate and liquorice-edged black fruits. Power and concentration - it’s plush and potent, but also quite tight with the flavours expanding vertically. Not as generous and openly friendly at this point but so svelte and well worked with a sense of style to it.Decanter | 93 DECA very fresh and driven style, with a racy core of damson plum, red cherry and dried lilac laced with hints of black tea and iron, which nicely extend the finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2024 through 2034.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThe second wine of Château Montrose, the 2020 La Dame De Montrose is terrific, with a sunny, forward, medium-bodied style as well as lots of ripe red and black fruits, notes of sweet tobacco, sandalwood, and spice, supple tannins, and outstanding length. Open and complex, it’s going to shine for 15 years if well-stored. The blend is 49% Merlot, 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot, and the balance Cabernet Franc, checking in at the same alcohol as the Grand Vin, 13.4%.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JD

A focused and savory red with sleek and tight tannins. Very precise. Medium-bodied with fresh herbs, currants, blackberries and oyster shells. Stones and dried flowers, too. Fine finish. Tannins are round and complete. Already approachable. From biodynamically grown grapes. Better after 2025.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2020 La Lagune has turned out beautifully, offering up aromas of cassis, dark berries, loamy soil and sweet spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, velvety, layered palate that exhibits excellent depth and concentration structured around powdery tannins, concluding with a perfumed, violet-inflected finish. This is a strong effort and a worthy, somewhat more muscular follow-up to the sensual, charming 2019.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPA generous, richly textured wine, this has density as well as layers of black currant fruits. Its power does not detract from its style and swagger—a wine that will develop well. Organic.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThe 2020 La Lagune is terrific. Rich, bold and explosive in the glass, the 2020 offers up a wild array of aromas and flavors. Spice, dried red cherry, cedar, tobacco and white pepper abound. More than anything, I very much admire the vibrancy and overall energy here. A whole range of floral and savory accents punctuate the finish.Vinous Media | 93 VMSmoky black fruits, tobacco, gravelly earth, and spicy oak all emerge from the 2020 Château La Lagune, one of the most concentrated, structured Haut-Médocs out there. Medium-bodied on the palate, it has terrific overall balance, building tannins, and a great finish. It needs to be forgotten for 4-5 years and will evolve for two decades or more if well-stored.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDThis comes in strong with both grip and attitude. Some austerity that shows through in the abundant tannic frame, but there is a juiciness that runs through the palate, a sense that it is light on its feet. Liquorice, black chocolate and a spiced tomato leaf adds layers, but things close down on the finish. This is certified organic and in biodynamic conversion. A yield of 30hl/ha.Decanter | 93 DEC

The 2020 La Sirene de Giscours is a gorgeous second wine. Bright and deep, with tons of drive the 2020 is seriously impressive. Dark cherry, dried herbs, menthol, licorice and dark spice build effortlessly, driven by bright acids and tons of nervous energy. The balance here is simply impeccable.Vinous Media | 93 VMBlack cherry and berry character with plenty of cedar and walnut aromas and flavors. It’s full and rather juicy with a solid backbone of tannins. Flavorful finish. Give it three or four years to soften and open. Muscular second wine. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 93 JSExotic spice on the nose, along with cedar, perfumed pine needles and blackcurrants. Juicy and sapid, gorgeous in both texture and mouthfeel. Tannins are fine and support the ripe black fruit. Lovely salinity, a feeling of crushed stones on the tongue with concentrated fruits. Direct and precise, elegant, balanced and so approachable. Supple, a tiny bit dry on the mid-palate but fresh and charming with liquorice and a minty-fresh finish. Great potential here, but wait three to five years.Decanter | 92 DECThe second wine of this terrific estate is the 2020 La Sirène De Giscours, which checks in as 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Merlot and Petit Verdot. It’s a balanced, medium-bodied, elegant Margaux with pretty cassis and darker berry fruits, some violet and spicy wood notes, soft tannins, and outstanding length. Drink this impeccably made, balanced second wine over the coming 10-12+ years.Jeb Dunnuck | 91 JDThe 2020 La Sirene de Giscours is especially polished and refined, offering up aromas of blackberries, cassis, violets and burning embers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, suave and seamless palate. It will drink well on release.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RPLush and forward, with a caressing feel to the friendly mix of plum puree, warmed cassis and violet notes. This has a light singed sandalwood note, which lets the fruit play out on the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2029.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Another gem of a wine from the talents of Marjolaine de Coninck, who manages all of the Perrodo family vineyards (Châteaux Labégorce and Marquis d’Alesme), the 2020 Château La Tour De Mons checks in as 57% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Cabernet Franc, aged in 30% new oak. This medium-bodied, round, absolutely charming and delicious Margaux gives up lots of cedary, spicy herbs, sweet tobacco, and sandalwood nuances, and it’s nicely textured, with soft tannins and a great finish. Where most 2020s really demand bottle age, this already offers loads of pleasure. It should keep nicely through 2032.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JDReally pretty and linear with a seamless, pretty core of blue fruit and firm, chewy tannins. Medium to full body. Racy and well done.James Suckling | 92-93 JSThe 2020 La Tour de Mons, matured in 25% new oak, has quite a perfumed bouquet with brambly red fruit, pressed rose petal, touches of potpourri, all well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with ample tannins, fine acidity, red plum, cranberry and strawberry laced with black pepper and just a touch of tobacco. There is just a subtle chalky texture on the finish. Lovely.Vinous Media | 91 VMA majority Merlot in the blend, this feels unforced, with sappy brambled fruits and plenty of hawthorn edging giving fresh acidities. Grilled and bitter tannins on the finish but there is sinew and interest here, and it’s a good wine, pretty serious with an attractive edge of smoked cedar. Bought by the team at Marquis d’Alesme in February 2020, this is the first year that they have followed entirely from beginning to end (with the decision taken to keep distinct from Labegorce, as was a question on their purchase, and a full 17ha of vines were pulled up out of 60ha in total, to be replanted over the next 10 years). First time hand harvesting (especially complicated with Covid-19 protocols). 3% Petit Verdot completes the blend. 3.6pH, 25% new oak. A yield of 32hl/ha.Decanter | 91 DEC

The 2020 Labégorce is a dark, sumptuous beauty. The 2020 has softened a bit with élevage, but it remains a distinctly potent, brooding Margaux.Vinous Media | 93 VMA forward, textured, already delicious wine, the 2020 Château Labégorce offers lots of red and black fruit as well as notes of cedar, smoke tobacco, and chocolate. Based on 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, aged in 40% new barrels, it has perfectly integrated oak, ripe, fine-grained tannins, and outstanding overall balance. Give bottles just a year or three and enjoy over the following 10-15 years or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDBeautiful, perfumed blackcurrants on the nose, smells lovely. Juicy and supple, this has a nice roundness and a fleshy texture in the glass while still being quite focused and streamlined. This has a sleekness to the tannins, the fruit goes in one line from start to finish, so it’s not so expansive or particularly deep but does have a nice style to it. Good acidity, concentration and freshness. Focused, driven, clean with precision. Classic, easy to drink and to recommend. Decanter | 93 DECA tight, compact Labégorce with blackcurrant, walnut and some graphite. It’s medium-to full-bodied with a solid core of tannins and fruit. Some lead pencil. Very structured for this estate.James Suckling | 92-93 JSThe 2020 Labégorce has turned out nicely, bursting with aromas of cherries, berries and licorice, followed by a medium to full-bodied, rich and ample palate. Fleshy and layered, this contemporary-styled Margaux will drink well young.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

The 2020 Lanessan is just as compelling from bottle as it was from barrel. Dark, virile and imposing, Lanessan offers up a mix of black cherry, plum, gravel, incense, tobacco, scorched earth and licorice. Firm tannins wrap it all together in style. This is a terrific showing.Vinous Media | 92 VMNicely textured from the start with tannins that are softly grainy giving a weight and frame to the red berry fruit with herbal edges. This has a both a sour and savoury tang which gives the wine character and energy. Nice high acidity with some bitter dark chocolate edges, subtle liquorice, creamy/chalky raspberries and some salty minerality. Lots going on here - still a little tense, this hasn’t softened and expanded fully but there’s excellent potential. Will be delicious. Eric Boissenot consultant.Decanter | 92 DECThis has aromas of blackcurrants, graphite, tomato leaves and iodine. Medium-bodied, with chewy, slightly rustic tannins. Clean, mineral and a little austere. Try in 2025.James Suckling | 91 JSReaders looking for a great buy in the vintage should check out the 2020 Château Lanessan, which offers ample dark (almost blue) fruits, cassis, and spring flower notes to go with a medium-bodied, nicely concentrated, balanced beauty that has enough tannins and structure to warrant 2-4 years of bottle age.Jeb Dunnuck | 90-92 JDSporting a deep purple-black color, the 2020 Lanessan has a lively nose of crushed redcurrants, black raspberries and blackcurrant preserves, plus hints of dried Provence herbs and pencil shavings. The medium-bodied palate has plenty of energetic red and black berry flavors, supported by grainy tannins, finishing deliciously refreshing.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RP

The second wine of Château Calon Ségur, the 2020 Le Marquis De Calon Ségur is unquestionably noteworthy. A blend of 54% Merlot, 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Cabernet Franc, it spent 17 months in 30% new French oak, with the balance in once-used oak. Redcurrants, chocolate, spice, graphite, and a kiss of spicy wood all define the aromatics, and it’s medium to full-bodied, with silky tannins and terrific purity. I’d happily drink a glass any time over the coming 10-15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDAnother strong wine in the Calon-Ségur stable this year, showing depth and clarity of flavour. No getting around the concentration in the tannins, well balanced by brambled berry fruits and the St-Estèphe feeling of confident power. After an extremely dry July, here they saw 45mm of rain in three days in August, followed by another stretch of no rain from 15 August to 21st September. Helps explain the low 33hl/ha yields. 30% new barrels. 3.7pH.Decanter | 93 DECFresh blackberries, blackcurrants, graphite, chocolate and spearmint on the nose. Medium to full body, with sleek and well-integrated tannins. Fruity and approachable for the appellation, with a cool, minty finish. Second wine of Calon Segur. Better after 2024.James Suckling | 93 JSThis second wine has firm tannins and ripe black fruits. It certainly has the density and structure of classic Saint-Estèphe, giving a wine that has weight and needs time to develop. Drink from 2027.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WETime and élevage have been kind to the 2020 Le Marquis de Calon Ségur. Silky, plush and inviting, the Marquis is showing so well today. Super-ripe dark cherry, plum, espresso, mocha and incense all meld together in a Merlot-based Saint-Estèphe of real class. This is a gorgeous second wine.Vinous Media | 92 VMBroad and fresh, with damson plum and black cherry notes that glide along, laced with a bright iron hint and backed by a violet accent. Approachable now. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2030.Wine Spectator | 90 WSThe 2020 Le Marquis de Calon-Ségur blend is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 49% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot, with an alcohol of 14.6%. It is aging for an anticipated 17 months in French oak barrels, 30% new. Deep purple-black in color, it bursts from the glass with bombastic scents of stewed black plums, crème de cassis and blueberry pie with nuances of violets and licorice, plus a waft of menthol. The medium to full-bodied palate is chock-full of juicy black fruits with plush tannins and just enough freshness, finishing spicy. This is a very different style from the grand vin (Calon-Ségur), but also very delicious.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RP

This is laden with cassis and bilberry - Cabernet dominant, with clearly defined muscles. Juicy and elegant, I love this, it is less approachable now than the Petit Haut de Smith, but hugely enjoyable, and has the precision that is the mark of the good wines in this vintage. A touch of austerity on the finish. 30% new oak.Decanter | 93 DECThis is a tight, more tannic Petit with a medium to full body and linear, racy phenolics. Blackberries, blueberries and some pine needles and stones. 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot.James Suckling | 93-94 JSComposed of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, aging in 30% new barriques, the 2020 Le Petit Haut Lafitte has a deep garnet-purple color, rolling out of the glass with alluring scents of blackberry preserves, Black Forest cake and warm cassis, plus wafts of red roses and cinnamon toast with a hint of dried mint. The medium to full-bodied palate delivers plush tannins and soft acidity to support the generous, juicy black fruits, finishing on a lingering minty note.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPThe 2020 Le Petit Haut Lafitte checks in as a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. Blueberries, black cherries, tobacco, and earthy notes all define the bouquet, and it’s medium to full-bodied on the palate and dense, with plenty of richness and building tannins. This is another seriously delicious, satisfying Pessac-Léognan that does everything right.Jeb Dunnuck | 90-92 JD

The Grand Vin 2020 Château Léoville Poyferré, which is released in a stylish black bottle commemorating a century for the Cuvelier family, is reminiscent of the 2016 with its powerful, concentrated, yet vibrant and inward style. Pure crème de cassis, melted chocolate, loamy earth, graphite, and some spicy nuances all define the aromatics, and it’s full-bodied, with a stacked mid-palate, nicely integrated oak, ripe tannins, and one hell of a great finish. This is another utterly brilliant wine from this team, which has been producing First Growth quality wines for many years now. The blend of the 2020 is 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot, aged in 80% new barrels, hitting 13.58% natural alcohol and a pH of 3.81. It will benefit from just 5-7 years of bottle age and will evolve for 50 years or more if well stored. Bravo. Tasted multiple times with consistent results.Jeb Dunnuck | 98+ JDThe 2020 Léoville-Poyferré is every bit as impressive as it was from barrel. If anything, it has gained in freshness and vibrancy with élevage. Dark cherry, plum, mocha, graphite and a kiss of French oak are some of the many notes that infuse the 2020 with tons of character. I especially admire its vertical energy and buttoned up personality. In some recent vintages Léoville-Poyferré has been quite showy, but the 2020 also has a more nuanced side that is hugely appealing.Vinous Media | 97 VMSupple and generous with mouthwatering acidity, though really quite tannic at this point which does cover up some of the nuance. I like the texture, the frame and the weight, it’s clean, polished and well worked, not overdone at all, but this has a sense of potent seduction in the flavours, rich blackcurrant, perfumed and scented. Detailed with lots of stony, slate, and wet stone elements giving a wonderful terroir influence. It’s not as immediately charming as the 2019, the tension still prominent, but this will be brilliant in 5-10 years.Decanter | 96 DECThis is really floral on the nose with violets and roses, and some black berries and dark cherries. It’s medium- to full-bodied with firm and polished tannins, and plenty of hazelnut and milk chocolate. Structured, yet so finely textured. So attractive and enticing now but needs three or four years to show what it has. Try after 2026.James Suckling | 96 JSShowy and very hard to resist, this gushes with velvety plum and boysenberry reduction flavors, along with melted black licorice and violet hints along the way. This has a very cold cast iron note buried deeply on the finish, too, to keep it grounded. A very distinctive house style. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2030 through 2038.Wine Spectator | 95 WSOf course, this impressive classified growth wine is young. But it’s easy to discern its promise. Black fruits and layers of sophisticated tannins are balanced with the wood aging and smoky fruit flavors. This estate in the heart of Saint-Julien has produced a very fine wine, fresh and structured at the same time. Drink from 2026.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEA rich, powerful wine, the 2020 Léoville Poyferré offers up aromas of sweet berries, blueberry liqueur, exotic spices, incense and creamy new oak. Full-bodied, broad and layered, it’s deep and concentrated, its ample core of fruit only partially concealing a hefty payload of sweet, powdery, generously extracted tannin. Poyferré is generally the most flamboyant and demonstrative of the three Léovilles, but in 2020, it’s chunkier, broader shouldered and more brooding than usual.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RP

Dark and heady on the nose, richly fruited and perfumed, smells serious and deep and totally inviting with dark chocolate, coffee and mocha notes with blackcurrant and black cherry and spiced vanilla, tobacco and cedar. Energetic, lively, vivid and bright on the palate but deep too, such a lovely vibrancy laced with liquorice, tobacco and bitter chocolate. Definitely serious but I love the energy, potency and florality. Structured and intense, totally seductive in a heady way yet still lively with a juicy core of strawberry, red cherry and blackcurrant. Feels nicely constructed and considered. A great second wine.Decanter | 95 DECBlackcurrants and dark chocolate with rose stems and flowers. Full-bodied with chewy tannins, racy texture and a spicy finish. Polished. 50% merlot, 42% cabernet sauvignon and 8% petit verdot. Try after 2028.James Suckling | 95 JSMore Cabernet Sauvignon-based in most vintages, the 2020 Les Griffons De Pichon Baron is a slight shift and is based on 50% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 8% Petit Verdot that spent 18 months in 50% new French oak. More pure cassis, redcurrants, acacia flowers, violets, and graphite flow to a full-bodied, beautifully textured, concentrated 2020 with enough tannins to warrant 4-5 years of bottle age.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThis wine is firm, its balance of Cabernet Sauvignon giving rich concentration and structure. The wine is dense, offering ripe tannins over the black currant fruits. Drink from 2027.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThe 2020 Les Griffons de Pichon Baron contains the Petit Verdot that was previously blended with the Les Tourelles. This has an intense nose with graphite and chalk-tinged black fruit, touches of black olive compote emerging with time, all with wonderful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm and saturated tannins, very pure, precise and poised. Gentle grip with a lively, citrus-fresh finish, and hints of blue fruit on the aftertaste.Vinous Media | 93 VMJuicy, ripe and focused, with a delicious core of cassis and damson plum notes that mingle well, flanked by a hint of singed cedar and carried by floral and iron notes through the finish. Lovely. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Best from 2024 through 2036. 6,400 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThe 2020 Les Griffons de Pichon Baron has turned out nicely, offering up aromas of sweet cassis, berries, loamy soil and tobacco leaf. Medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy, it’s pure and more serious than the Tourelles, with a more Cabernet-driven personality (along with all the estate’s Petit Verdot this year).Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

(Château Margaux, Margaux, Bordeaux, France, Red) A brilliant Margaux; one that takes a sigh and then releases the huge floral, eucalyptus and crushed mint whoosh that comes in waves though the palate. You get the concentration of the vintage in an entirely positive light, with a suave softness to the tannins that makes it stand head and shoulders above many others. Plenty in common with the 1996 vintage - the knitted down tannins, the completeness, the juicy blackcurrant purity and acidity on the finish, and the certainty of long ageing. Real clarity of flavour. Alcohol level is lower than both the 2018 and 2019, but tannins and anthocyanins are at the same level as in 2018. 36% of overall harvest, and 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend. A yield of 36hl/ha. 98-100. (Drink between 2028-2044)Decanter | 99 DECSo floral and perfumed with blackcurrants, blackberries and some asphalt. Full-bodied with super, fine tannins. Extremely refined with great length and intensity. The wonderful combination of refinement and power is already evident. Superb finish. Another great Margaux.James Suckling | 99-100 JSThe 2020 Château Margaux is composed of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, accounting for 36% of the harvest. The alcohol weighs in at 13.5%, the IPT is 80 and the pH is 3.67.Displaying an opaque purple-black color, it needs a lot of air, time and patience to coax out the youthfully reticent nose of blueberry preserves, blackcurrant pastilles and Black Forest cake, followed by suggestions of lavender, clove oil, iron ore and menthol with wafts of star anise and candied violets. The medium to full-bodied palate is wonderfully opulent, featuring tightly wound yet beautifully pure layers of black fruits and earthy nuances within a solid structure of firm yet velvety tannins and exhilarating freshness, finishing with very long-lingering earth and mineral notes. Another stunning expression of the vintage by Philippe Bascaules and his team—bravo!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97-99 RPA stunning, riveting wine, the 2020 Margaux is classic as classic gets. Racy, elegant and super-refined, the 2020 possesses magnificent balance. Inky red/purplish fruit, lavender, rose petal, spice and bright mineral notes build as this super-expressive Margaux builds over time in the glass. The 2020 is not an obvious wine, but then again Château Margaux rarely is. I love the energy and vibrancy here. Margaux is very clearly one of the wines of the vintage in 2020. It’s a tremendous effort from the team led by Estate Manager Philippe Bascaules.Vinous Media | 97-99 VMThe 2020 Château Margaux is a more concentrated, dense wine that has the vintage’s massive dry extract paired with more moderate alcohol levels and building tannins. Blackcurrants, sandalwood, tobacco leaf, and graphite give way to a full-bodied, rich, powerful Château Margaux that’s flawlessly balanced, has a stacked mid-palate, and a great finish. It’s one for the ages, though, and don’t expect much up-front appeal. It almost reminds me of the 1996, yet with slightly more density. It’s a quintessential beauty that will be just about immortal.Jeb Dunnuck | 96-98 JDRipe and creamy, this white wine from the Margaux vineyards is full of apple, grapefruit and tangy orange fruit. It also has a good structure with its touch of toast and spice. The wine is clean, clear, very pure and with great balance. Drink from 2020.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

The 2020 Marquis d’Alesme is matured in 50% new oak and was bottled a little later than other châteaux. It has a crisp bouquet with redcurrant, white-tipped strawberry, cedar and crushed violet aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine and quite saturated tannins, mainly black fruit tinged with spice, smooth in texture with a touch of piquancy towards the finish. It is persistent and it blossoms in the glass. Very fine.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe 2020 Château Marquis D’Alesme Becker showed well, and this tiny Margaux estate continues to producer fabulous wines under the helm of Marjolaine de Coninck. Based on 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, and the rest Cabernet Franc, it has a juicy, medium-bodied, round, even sexy style that carries lots of cassis and assorted darker, blue fruits, notes of spicy wood, flowers, and violet, soft tannins, terrific balance, and great finish. Coming from a mix of gravelly, sandy soils and aged in 50% new French oak, this beauty hit 14% natural alcohol (no doubt helped by the large Merlot component) and is going to benefit from just a few years of bottle age. It’s going to see its 20th birthday in fine form.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDChewy and very tannic with a solid depth of dark fruit, showing blackberry and currant character. Full and powerful. Real structure here.James Suckling | 94-95 JSSolidly built, with a singed sandalwood and alder frame holding a core of dark plum and warmed cassis together, while light charcoal, bay leaf and earth details emerge on the finish. A strong showing. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2026 through 2036.Wine Spectator | 93 WSJuicy and upfront, this is deep and rich with a dominant aspect of liquorice, salty stones, dark chocolate and cola, giving this a bit of a savoury and heady aspect with the fruit in the background slightly. Excellent weight on the palate, I like the firm structure and the integrated tannins. Serious and confident, I love the energy and the texture, it’s just a great density in the mouth, not too thick but the concentration matched by the acidity, and the freshness is great. Juicy and balanced. Quite tannic overall, but lovely life and lift at the end. Well worked. Decanter | 93 DEC

(Château Montrose, St-Estèphe, Bordeaux, France, Red) A serious wall of blueberry and blackberry compote, and a ton of savoury Cabernet sinew and freshness. This is a great Montrose, inky, broad-shouldered and structured. It needs time to aerate and open in the glass, then you see the precision, the heft, the chiselling of the fruits with a ton of graphite, cigar box and campfire smoke - huge persistency. This will need a long time and will reward patience. One of the few where a 1986, 2016 and 2010 comparison makes sense. A yield around 30hl/ha. 1% Petit Verdot, 3.86pH, IPT 80. 45% of the overall production. (Drink between 2029-2050)Decanter | 98 DECJust starting to open, it shows beautiful spices and dark fruit on the nose and palate. It’s full-bodied with ultra-fine, integrated tannins and an extremely complex, refined finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSWhile the wine is firm and with powerful tannins it has delicious fruitiness that is more forward than in many vintages of the wine. The fine black currant flavors are underlined by acidity while the Cabernet Sauvignon gives a fine, firm structure to this very direct wine.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WE

The 2020 Mouton Rothschild is a striking wine and one that I regretted not purchasing en primeur as soon as it landed in my glass. Offering up complex aromas of minty cassis, pencil shavings, loamy soil, cigar wrapper, espresso roast and violets, it’s medium to full-bodied, broad and layered, with terrific concentrated, beautifully refined tannins and a long, penetrating finish. Checking in at 12.8% alcohol, its incipient complexity, ineffable sense of completeness and exquisite balance mark it out as the purists’ choice among the trio of 2018, 2019 and 2020. In this vintage, the lots that made it into the blend were largely confined to the core gravel terroirs that represent Mouton’s heart, meaning that there’s a little less to go around. This was the first vintage overseen by Mouton’s new technical director, Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy, and he has begun with a flying start.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPDark fruits on the nose, blackcurrants and cherries with savoury nuances of dark chocolate and tobacco. Fresh and forward on the palate, this hits you square on, still very lean and direct, almost piercing and severe in its intensity and drive, though wonderfully precise: it’s like an arrow. Serious and focussed yet full and layered, the texture is lovely, a slight graininess that lingers but it’s the acidity and the fruit purity that are so excellent - they give such a sense of vibrancy and make this wine so thrilling. You get a feeling of pent-up energy, but after a few minutes the slight density of the ripe fruit comes through, giving some plushness and weight. I love the Cabernet details and the mineral element that leaves the mouth cool and fresh. A well constructed, subtle beauty.Decanter | 100 DECThe purity of blackcurrants, blueberries, creme de cassis, and flowers. Hints of subtle spearmint. Iron. Blood orange. Medium-bodied with a compacted palate, like a cylinder of perfectly ripe fruit and fine tannins. A million layers of tight-grained tannins. It goes on and on. Such freshness and weightlessness to it. Ethereal. New classicism. Modern take on the 1986. 12.79% alcohol. 84% cabernet sauvignon, 13% merlot, 2% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot. Drink after 2030 but hard to not drink now.James Suckling | 100 JSThe 2020 Mouton Rothschild is very clearly one of the great, great wines of the Left Bank in 2020. All the elements are in perfect balance. A wine of total sensuality and nuance, Mouton is all finesse in 2020, all elegance. An explosion of dark cherry fruit, plum, pomegranate, mint and cinnamon are all amplified. From barrel, the 2020 Mouton hinted at greatness. Today, that greatness is evident. The rich, vibrant finish is a thing of beauty.Vinous Media | 99 VMThis is a massive, impressive wine. Dense tannins and succulent black fruits are the outward manifestation of the hidden power of this concentrated wine. The fruit is opulent, full of possibility. Drink this wine from 2028.Wine Enthusiast | 99 WEThe 2020 Château Mouton Rothschild is in the running for the biggest, baddest, and most concentrated wine in the vintage. Based on 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petite Verdot brought up in new barrels, this inky hued beast of wine offers up classic Mouton ripe black fruits, scorched earth, tobacco leaf, and freshly sharpened pencil-like aromatics. These carry to a full-bodied, concentrated, tannic, backward 2020 with terrific purity, building, mouth-coating tannins, terrific balance, and one gorgeous finish. Unfortunately, as with many of the top 2020s, this isn’t for those looking for instant gratification, and a decade (or more) of cellaring is advised. This hit 13.1% natural alcohol with a pH of 3.78. It will be a 50-, 60-, 70+-year wine.Jeb Dunnuck | 97+ JD

A crunchy and fresh 2020 with sliced oranges and redcurrants as well as cedar and nutmeg. Full-bodied with very firm and tight tannins. Bright finish. Crushed stone at the end as well. Needs three to five years to soften. 56% cabernet sauvignon, 34% merlot, 5% cabernet franc and 5% petit verdot. First year with organic farming. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2020 Château Pédesclaux reminds me of the 2016 with its concentrated, pure, classic Pauillac style. A blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, and the balance Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it has a great nose of pure blue fruits (currants, cassis) as well as ample lead pencil, chalky minerality, and violet aromas and flavors. Medium to full-bodied, beautifully balanced, and elegant on the palate, it has the purity and polish to shine even today, yet my money is on it benefiting from 4-6 years of bottle age, and it should evolve gradually over the following 15+ years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDTense and coiled, lovely styling here with bright and vibrant black fruits, a soft hit of creaminess alongside liquorice-laced tannins. Power and brawn, clearly structured and intense, this will age very well just a bit shy and tight right now. Dark chocolate, menthol freshness, plum and rosemary. Excellent tannic grip and I love the sweetness on the palate as well as overall freshness. Something very captivating about this and upscored from a tasting in September.Decanter | 94 DECMatured in 55% new oak, the 2020 Pédesclaux, has a very Cabernet-driven nose as indeed, this Pauillac estate has been gradually moving towards the variety in recent years. Blackberry, freshly-rolled tobacco and light pencil box notes. This is clean and precise. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, fresh and fleshy, yet there is backbone here with a gentle but insistent grip towards the smooth finish. Maybe it just needs a little more complexity overall, but this should still drink well for the next two decades.Vinous Media | 91 VM