Red Wines

wines

The 2022 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru is showing brilliantly, wafting from the glass with notes of red berries and cherries mingled with incense, rose petals, spices and peonies. Full-bodied, fleshy and layered, it’s seep and multidimensional, with a concentrated core of fruit and a long, resonant finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2022 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet with black cherries, wild strawberries and iris flower, more intense than the 2023. Taut and focused, the palate is medium-bodied with a fresh entry, quite linear for a Bonnes-Mares, with a bright, vivacious finish. Very fine.Vinous Media | 93 VM25% whole bunch vinification. More of a pinky purple. Still in barrel, so the bouquet reflects this. There is a fine and concentrated mineral thread through the middle of this wine and significant class to the fruit. Does it have the silky sensual quality of the very finest? Drink from 2032-2040. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-96 JMLike the Clos de Vougeot, this too is quite firmly reduced and revealing nothing aromatically. More interesting are the beautifully textured and tension-filled bigger-bodied flavors that exhibit fine length on the dusty and balanced finale. This would benefit from having better depth but the potential to develop it appears to present.Burghound | 92-95 BH

The red premier cru Gravières is the flagship of this estate. It is widely seen as the finest vineyard in Santenay, and Jessiaume owns more than five hectares; the bulk of this is included here. This substantial wine is slightly reticent on the initial attack, but it opens with time to show deep mulberry and plum fruit aromas, hints of exotic black tea and spice. The texture is dense and firm, with silky but supportive tannins and impressive persistence on the palate. The grapes are destemmed and gently fermented before ageing for 12 months in cask (25% new).Decanter | 94 DECA fine flowing crimson purple colour. The bouquet has both class and a sense of reserve. Dark raspberry fruit, but the key is that this wine is busting with energy without sacrificing finesse. The tannins are correctly ripe and integrate beautifully, and there is just the right point of acidity alongside. An impeccable finish. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JM

TOP VALUE Jessiaume is using the 2ha of domaine vines it recently recovered from a sharecropping contract to produce this lovely wine with aromatic raspberry fruit and a floral edge. Supple and approachable, with a pleasant sweetness to the fruit, structure and freshness. A noticeable step up from the other village-level bottlings. Organic.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThis red Santenay has a crisp acidity, but there’s excellent concentration and finely nuanced red-fruit aromas that easily balance this. Cool and elegant on the medium-bodied palate, where the fine-grained tannins, fruit and freshness neatly interlock. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2022 Santenay La Cassière has a pleasant bouquet with wild strawberry and raspberry fruit and some judicious and prudent use of new oak (20%). The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit, more harmonious, and unlike the Vieilles Vignes, the finish has more substance. Drink over 4-6 years.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMFrom a plot below La Maladière, recovered by the domaine in 2021. An attractive lighter purple colour. This is an elegant style of Santenay. Quite nuanced, pleasing light red fruits, enough acidity and good length. Very far from rustic! Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 87-90 JM

Aromas of wild raspberries cascade out of the glass with fresh rose, wild herbs and subtle earth notes. The lively palate pops with sour red cherries that are balanced by hints of anise and underbrush. Elegant tannins frame the wine perfectly. Wine Enthusiast | 93 WELanghe Nebbiolo is a terrific category of wine that is taking on enormous steam. You get the lovely character of the elegant grape but delivered here with more immediacy and ease of drinking. The Elvio Cogno 2022 Langhe Nebbiolo Montegrilli is the type of bottle you hope to find at your neighborhood trattoria or pizzeria. The wine shows a brilliant ruby hue with fragrant rose, violet and sweet cherry. Production is 15,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPSourced from Nebbiolo grown just outside the Barolo zone on sandy soils, this Langhe Nebbiolo is primed and ready to be enjoyed now. Vinified in stainless steel with a portion of whole-bunch fruit and 30% undergoing carbonic maceration, it flaunts a beautiful perfume of wild strawberry and floral notes. In the mouth it has good intensity of juicy red fruits with a touch of herbs. Textural, sapid and vertical.Decanter | 92 DECNo written review provided. | 92 W&SThe 2022 Langhe Nebbiolo Montegrilli is an homage to Valter’s grandfather and was fermented and aged only in stainless steel. The 2022 Langhe Nebbiolo Montegrilli is a pale ruby, with notes of ripe wild strawberry, cinnamon, and white pepper. It is lifted, fresh, and medium-bodied, with fresh acidity and a good clean finish. Another fresh example to serve with salumi and as an aperitif, with a light chill, it is easy to drink and approachable. Drink over the next 5-6 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 91 JDDried herbs, dark chocolate and bark with red and dark berries on offer here. Medium-bodied, juicy and crunchy with a flavorful, citrusy finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 91 JSJust a touch earthy in aroma, giving way to succulent cherry, raspberry, floral and woodsy flavors. Balanced and firm, with a lingering, spicy finish. Decant. Drink now. 1,500 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

The 2022 Languedoc Les Darons brings more density and richness, with ripe black cherries, wild strawberry, ground pepper, and floral notes in a medium to full-bodied, pure, beautifully balanced package. The purity and balance here are top-notch. The blend is 70% Grenache, 25% Syrah, and the rest Carignan, from old vines, with the aging in concrete. This is going to be a smoking value.Jeb Dunnuck | 92-94 JDA well-made red from old grenache with notes of cherries, blueberries, stones and black pepper. Medium body with fine, firm tannins. Textured and balanced with a compact and juicy peppery finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 92 JS

A total of one hectare is planted in Fournaux. The vines from the top of the slope in stony soils are blended with those from the deeper clay at the base. All the grapes are fermented as whole clusters and are ageing in mainly used casks to create this wine with a bright mulberry and pomegranate fruit aroma underpinned by saline minerality and a hint of savoury game. The texture is firm with grippy tannins and good length.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThe 2022 Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Fournaux 1er Cru is more closed on the nose compared to the Grands Liards, yet it is still well-defined with black plum and bilberry fruit, intermingling with sous-bois and a touch of crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. It’s an elegant Savigny, not powerful, but armed with reassuring persistence on the white pepper-tinged finish. Lovely.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMAn even fresh purple. At first there is not much nose but a little fresh raspberry fruit begins to emerge. The Fournaux 2022 delivers a rounded raspberry and strawberry fruit across the palate with sterner tannins at the finish, and still a good acid balance. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JMMore somber, even brooding, aromas of various dark berries, warm earth and a touch of the sauvage enjoy a floral top note. There is notably better punch, though not better density, to the powerful and serious medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate with firm tannins on the built-to-age finale.Burghound | 89-91 BH

Made with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, the Tenuta San Guido 2022 Guidalberto gives you a good taste of the same DNA that brings us one of Italy’s greatest wines, Sassicaia, but it’s offered in a more immediate style here (thanks to the addition of the Merlot). This warm vintage opens to medium-dark concentration and very plump aromas that take you immediately to blackberry and blackcurrant sitting out in the sun at your local farmers market. The wine shows a soft and gentle side with a pretty level of elegance transmitted through the fruit freshness and the light oak spice that is discernible here but delivered with grace.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThis red is elegant, despite its firm structure and dense tannins. Black cherry, black currant, plum, tobacco, iron and rosemary flavors hold court, while all the components show balance. The finish is long, with a salty taste. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2025 through 2038.Wine Spectator | 94 WSLots of mint with sage and fresh rosemary to the currant and orange character on the nose, as well as some ripe raspberries. The palate is very refined with creamy and crunchy tannins that run the length of the wine. It shows a crunchy and energetic personality. Give it a year or two to come together, but it’s showing brightness for the vintage. Drink after 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSA blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the 2022 Guidalberto has lovely aromas of ripe wild berry, Mediterranean herb and a whiff of brown exotic spice. It’s surprisingly vibrant for the scorching vintage, featuring black currant, juniper berry, star anise and dried mint set against fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Give it another year or two to fully develop. Drink 2025–2032. Abv: 13.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOGuidalberto used to be great value for money, and even though it’s a bit pricier these days, the quality has also improved dramatically in recent vintages as Tenuta San Guido seeks to remove the idea of Guidalberto as a ‘second wine’ by building a dedicated winemaking facility and adjusting the blend. The 2022 is loaded with herbal and sea breeze scents among bright, tangy berries. In the mouth it is saline and precise, with a succulence to the concentrated plum and black berry core, and a gracefulness to the tannic and acid structures which weave through it. Sapid and incredibly moreish, with a beautifully ripe red berry finish, this really does stand up on its own two feet.Decanter | 93 DEC

A tiny vineyard of one hectare delivers this firm, medium-bodied red with racy tannins, dark chocolate, iodine and dried strawberries. Creamy and chewy at the same time. Juicy as well. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JS

This deeply coloured wine from the Pommard side of the village boasts a pronounced plummy fruit with nuance from hints of wood smoke and saddle leather. The texture is firm and draws the wine to a lingering finish. The grapes are from d’Angerville’s 1.06ha parcel. The 2023 vintage has more stuffing than many, although there is no lack of charm. This wine will probably require five to seven years to show its best. A lovely success.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECA medium crimson tint to the colour. An extrovert riper fruit on the nose, sheer beauty on the palate, a slightly darker tint to the raspberry behind. And then it all comes flooding back incrementally across the palate. “A wine which levitates”, suggests Guillaume. Very persistent indeed.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPA bright and wonderfully fresh nose also offers up ripe cherry scents are laced with hints of spice and red currant. The mouthfeel of medium-bodied flavors is fine to the point of being borderline delicate while delivering good punch on the firm, serious and saline-inflected finale. Lovely.Burghound | 91 BHA medium crimson tint to the colour. An extrovert riper fruit on the nose, sheer beauty on the palate, a slightly darker tint to the raspberry behind. And then it all comes flooding back incrementally across the palate. “A wine which levitates”, suggests Guillaume. Very persistent indeed.Vinous Media | 90-92 VMA lighter crimson colour. Crushed strawberries on the nose, but no whole bunches here. More about the sensuality than precision in this wine, a riper style of fruit though not necessarily any higher in degree. A long and agreeable finish. Drink from 2030-2037. Tasted Nov 2024.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JM

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Champerrier is very pure and sensual on the nose, with generous red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit tones that envelop the senses. The palate is well balanced with a gentle grip, but there is more energy and greater frisson toward the finish than the Vieilles Vignes, which beckons you back for another sip. This is excellent.Vinous Media | 93 VMHere too there is just enough wood to merit pointing out suffusing the compositionally similar, if less expressive, nose. The succulent and rounded medium weight flavors still manage to retain good detail on the solidly powerful, youthfully austere and moderately rustic finish that is both compact and robust. This is an excellent Gevrey villages that is worth your interest.Burghound | 90 BH

The Cerbaiona NV Rosso V.D.T. is a real beauty. This mysterious blend of what appears to be about 90% Sangiovese and 10% Pinot Nero (with no vintage declared on the label) opens to a sultry, dark appearance with some deep ruby shine that shows from within. The bouquet has elements that remind me of a classic Tuscan Sangiovese (made in a hands-off and transparent manner) on the one hand, and fragrant, blue flower elements that do in fact recall a distant Pinot Nero on the other. It also has some carbonic-adjacent aromas and a whole lot of freshness, with mint and medicinal herb. Dusty earthenware or baked terracotta also appear. The wine is certainly beautiful, and I’m excited to recommend it.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The first time specific blocks have been used for this wine. Dark forest berry notes on the nose with perfumed elements and notes of milk chocolate. Supple and agile, generous with textured, slightly grainy tannins that are so pleasant – expansive and round in the mouth. It’s well built and very approachable with blackcurrant and black cherry flavours on the palate. Concentrated, deep and layered but still with elegance. Extremely characterful. A blend of the 2018 and 2019 vintages with 18 months ageing in French oak barrels. 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend. DRINK 2023-2031.”Decanter | 93 DEC