Red Wines

wines

I continue to be blown away by the 2000 Château L’Evangile. This is straight-up magical juice that will compete with anything out there. Revealing a still vivid ruby hue with no lightening at the rim, it builds beautifully with time in the glass and has the incredible Pomerol mix of opulence and elegance. Darker cherries, currants, graphite, loamy earth, and chocolate all define the bouquet, and it’s full-bodied, with a layered, multi-dimensional mouthfeel, perfect tannins, and an incredible finish. It will be interesting to see if the 2016 hits the same heights, but this is clearly one of the greatest wines from this estate.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDThis is an absolutely spectacular L’Evangile. It remains to be seen whether 2009 will eclipse this great effort. Largely a Merlot-dominated blend with some Cabernet Franc in it, the greatness of this terroir is exhibited in the complexity of the nose, which offers up hints of subtle chocolate, blueberry, blackberry, truffle, barbecue smoke, and graphite. Dense, rich, and full-bodied, with an opulence and succulence that are prodigious, the tannins are present but extremely sweet, and the wine multi-dimensional and just emerging as a compellingly complex, head-turning beauty. Drink it now and over the next 20-25 years. Kudos to L’Evangile.Robert Parker | 98 RPLots of iodine, oyster, blueberry and blackberry aromas with hints of black olives. Some basil, too. Full body, powerful and dense with velvety tannins and fantastic length and intensity. A rich wine yet shows focus and form. Beautiful now and still showing impressive youth. There is a warmth to it. Drink or hold for years to come.James Suckling | 96 JS91% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc. Needs aerating and remains a touch closed, even after 17 years. Clearly displays the rich black fruit and sexy Pomerol swagger that you expect of such a big vintage, tempered by the delicacy of the winemaking at L’Evangile. This is a great wine, still young, with a long life ahead of it. Drinking Window 2018 - 2035Decanter | 94 DECSaturated ruby. Superripe aromas of black and red fruits and dark chocolate; almost but not quite pruney. Then pliant, sweet and lush, with explosive black raspberry fruit and lots of early personality. This is downright hedonistic and deceptively soft. Finishes very long and ripe, with extremely fine tannins.Vinous Media | 92-95 VMA savory edge leads off, followed by well-mulled raspberry, blackberry and strawberry flavors, with dried anise and black licorice notes taking over on the finish. Touches of raisin and plum skin notes at the very end have this red flirting with a Port-like surmaturité, but this will have fans for sure. You can push it if you want, but I’d drink this sooner rather than later.—Blind 2000 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2015). Drink now through 2023. 2,800 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2005 Pichon-Longueville Baron is another concentrated, full-bodied 2005 that’s starting to drink well. Cassis, black cherries, tobacco leaf, cedar and classic Pauillac lead-pencil characteristics all emerge from this ripe, sexy, surprisingly rounded effort that has a stacked mid-palate and sweet, polished tannin. It’s impressive today but is going to cruise for another two to three decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDA great, classic Pauillac, with its dark, dense, almost black currant flavors stirred together with immense tannins. The layers of dryness, fresh fruits, acidity and ripeness are all coming together into a magnificent structure.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEBaron was trapped in its oak en primeur, seeming flashy, luscious and soft. Now bottled and shipped, it has the unremitting tannic power of the vintage, balanced by unrelenting purity of fruit that somehow manages to anesthetize the monstrous tannin, to soften the extremely dry, mineral-bound finish into a caress. The wine may be bombastic, but it’s also succulent and as sweet as a ripe black raspberry. It’s easy to imagine this wine 50 years from now, in impeccable condition. Diageo Château & Estate Wines, NYWine & Spirits | 96 W&SThe 2005 Pichon Baron is in a gorgeous spot right now. Aromatically expressive and open, the 2005 is so expressive. Cedar, sweet pipe tobacco, mint, dried flowers, mocha and sweet red cherry fruit all meld together in a creamy, wonderfully expressive Pauillac. A long, persistent finish with terrific saline energy rounds things out in style. The 2005 is a super classic Pichon Baron that delivers so much pleasure.Antonio Galloni | 95 AGWeeks of sunshine preceded an entirely healthy harvest, leading to high expectations that have been fulfilled. This is still opaque red in colour, the resplendent black-fruit nose accompanied by toasty oak, though still a bit reserved. Very rich and velvety, it is highly concentrated with lavish tannins. Broad-shouldered and chocolatey, it has moderate acidity and is now beginning to open up, though it remains imposing and a bit monumental. Textured and long. Drinking Window 2020 - 2038Decanter | 95 DECOffers crushed currant and blackberry on the nose, turning to tar and licorice. Full-bodied, with a solid core of ripe fruit and seamless tannins. Goes on and on. Very, very beautiful. A cross between the 2000 and fabulous 2003. Best after 2013. 20,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2005 Pichon Baron has a dense ruby/purple color, sweet crème de cassis fruit, lots of cedar wood and forest floor, medium to full body, ripe tannin, and a long finish of a good 30+ seconds. This is a beauty and one of the most successful Pauillacs of this vintage. Drink it now through 2035.Robert Parker | 93 RP

The 2005 Monte Bello is beginning to drink very well indeed, revealing complex aromas of sweet currant fruit, rich soil, cedar cigar box and sweet spices. With time in the glass, nuances of dark chocolate and loamy soil emerge too. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with fine-grained structuring tannins, the first signs of emerging savory nuance and a bright, beautifully focused finish. As it approaches age 13, the 2005 is still very youthful—indeed, this particular bottle was more reserved and taut than the last four or five that I’ve encountered—so there’s certainly no rush to drink it. Cropped at just under one ton per acre, the 2005 is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc that attained 13.4% natural alcohol.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPRugged in its youth, this vintage has blossomed. There are opulent blackcurrant and blackberry aromas, with a dash of vanilla. It’s suave and full-bodied but not extracted, and the fine-grained tannins and integrated acidity give a polished mid-palate. Spicy and complex, it displays impeccable balance and exemplary finesse. Very long.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECYouthful nose, with a very wide spectrum of red and black fruit, as well as delicate notes of cardamon pods and vanilla beans. For 18 years of age this still has a serious tannin structure and remarkable vitality on the compact palate. Very long, complete finish with plenty of chalky minerality. A cuvee of 72% cabernet sauvignon, 22% merlot and 6% petit verdot. Tasted at the Thomas Kammeier Monte Bello vertical. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSRidge’s 2005 Monte Bello is beginning to show the first signs of aromatic development, although it has more than enough depth and density to drink well for another twenty years. Tobacco, cedar, leather, spice and menthol add considerable nuance. The tannins are nicely resolved, which makes the 2005 an excellent choice for current drinking. The 2005 is not a blockbuster, but it is super-polished and refined, with an almost exotic sense of ripeness from the warm, dry summer and low yields of that year.Vinous Media | 96 VMAt a good drinking stage, this is smooth-textured, with a mix of ripe, supple plum, black cherry, anise, dill and licorice notes, ending with fine-grained tannins that still have grip. This has a reputation for aging. -- 2005 California Cabernet blind retrospective (September 2015). Drink now through 2025. 2,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Dense, intense chocolate and damson colour. On the nose things are still very closed despite its age. Although the palate is heading to the splitting point where the tertiary aromatics and flavours are making their appearance, though they’re held back by the primary vibrant blackberry fruits and a seam of Sassicaia freshness, with a bite of liquorice root. After a moment in the glass, the nose starts to open. Undergrowth notes are most clear at first, followed by black truffles. This is slowly opening up, taking time and patience. A clearly great vintage, and one that has many years ahead of it.Decanter | 98 DECThe 2008 Bolgheri Sassicaia is a wine without a winemaker. The last vintage made by Giacomo Tachis was 2007 and incoming enologist Graziana Grassini claims 2009 as her first vintage. Within the context of this retrospective, the 2008 vintage opens a new chapter, because it is the first wine to show evident tertiary definition and complexity. In fact, the wine performs beautifully with an exalted performance and ethereal aromas. They include cassis, wild berry, crushed mineral, licorice, petrol and grilled herb. This wine is really coming together now and is entering a very exciting moment in its drinking life. It boasts finesse, elegance and grace. Yet, it also shows unmistakable richness and structure that gives the wine an enormous presence in terms of mouthfeel. This was one of the top highlights of the retrospective.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThis is the best young Sassicaia in years. It’s the new 1988 -- which was great, sometimes better than the legendary 1985. What incredible aromas here with blueberries, spices, licorice, plums. Graphite too. Subtle and complex. Full and silky with a beautiful texture of fine tannins and an ultra-fine finish. So beautiful now but will be much better in 2015. Owner Nicolo Incisa della Rocchetta says that Sassicaia is always great in years that end with 8: 1958, 1968, 1978, 1988, 1998, and 2008.James Suckling | 97 JSRecently implemented winemaker and cellar changes make this one of the best Sassicaias ever. This Cabernet Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc blend delivers thick concentration and sun-kissed aromas of black fruit, prune, dried bay leaf, black olive and tobacco. The thick, fertile soils that characterize the magical strip of coastal Tuscany at Bol-gheri help shape amazing richness and intensity.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEThe 2008 Sassicaia is a rich, deep wine imbued with notable class in its black cherries, plums, grilled herbs, minerals and smoke. The 2008 is a decidedly buttoned-up, firm Sassicaia that is currently holding back much of its potential, unlike the 2006 and 2007, both of which were far more obvious wines. Readers who can afford to wait will be treated to a sublime wine once this settles down in bottle. Muscular, firm tannins frame the exquisite finish in this dark, implosive Sassicaia. The 2008 Sassicaia is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. The wine spent 24 months in French oak barrels.Vinous Media | 96 VMRefined and elegant, this is right in step with the reserve of the vintage. Blackberry, plum, cassis and mineral flavors play out with subtle oak spice notes on the finish, where this flexes some muscle. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2014 through 2025. 9,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe original Bolgheri wine estate, first planted to Bordelais varieties by Marchese Mario Incisa della Rochetta in the 1940s, this vineyard produced a rich 2008 with dark, earthy power. The youthful tannins are edgy and angular, balanced between black peppercorn spice and resonant, mushroom tones. Built to cellar, this should begin to show its best around ten years from the vintage, and age well beyond that time. Kobrand, Purchase, NYWine and Spirits | 93 W&S

The 2010 Barolo (Riserva) Brunate is off the charts. Sublime, powerful and incredibly nuanced, the 2010 captures all the elements that make this vintage so special. I am not sure what I can add. Everything is there. Time in the glass brings out a super-classic profile of rose petal, tar, incense, spice and citrus peel, but it is the wine’s regal bearing that is truly impressive.Vinous Media | 100 VMThe 2010 Brunate is one of the best wines I have ever tasted from Giuseppe Rinaldi, and one of the greatest expressions of this fabulous vintage. Polished and structured, it seamlessly combines layers of rose, violet, perfumed red berries, juicy black cherry, leather, spice and eucalyptus sensations that convey a Nebbiolo purity of compelling depth and finesse. It’s already drop-dead gorgeous but will become one of the legendary bottlings of the vintage. Drink 2020-2045. Kerin O’Keefe | 100 KOThe 2010 Brunate is one of the greatest expressions of this fabulous vintage. Polished and structured, it seamlessly combines layers of rose, violet, perfumed red berries, juicy black cherry, leather, spice and eucalyptus sensations that convey a Nebbiolo purity of compelling depth and finesse. It’s already gorgeous, but will become one of the legendary bottlings of the vintage. Drink 2020–2045.Wine Enthusiast | 100 WERose, peony, cherry and raspberry aromas and flavors are the main themes in this detailed red. Accents of tobacco and leather add depth, keeping this impeccably balanced and harmonious. The finish is long and echoes with notes of fruit, flowers and mineral. Best from 2017 through 2035. 700 cases made, 375 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSLovely sweetness, great depth and huge tannins. Not unlike a great Châteauneuf.Decanter | 95 DECExpressive and defined, the 2010 Barolo Brunate delivers excellent definition and focus. The wine ushers forth a pretty ensemble of dark berry, spice and balsam herb aromas that are well balanced to form a harmonious wine. This pretty wine lends wattage to the classic 2010 vintage. Freshness and a firm tannic backbone give Barolo Brunate impressive length and elegant persistence.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

Savory berries, plums, iron, minerals, tobacco, ink and blood oranges. Very bright, juicy and structured, with sensational balance, aged savoriness and brightness that are typical of Tondonia reds. Beautiful now.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2012 Viña Tondonia Reserva comes from a very dry year, with 25% less rain than the average (at the time), resulting in lower yields of very healthy grapes that delivered wines with nice balance between alcohol and polyphenols, making it very apt for the aging in barrel. It had a slightly longer élevage in barrel, six years. The wine is aromatic with a developed profile, spicy and tertiary (forest floor, a touch of brick dust and iodine), complex and nuanced. The palate is full and round, with polished tannins and a long, dry finish. It has a textbook Tondonia nose and profile. 250,000 bottles produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPAll you can expect from a classical Viña Tondonia with its focused intensity and muscular yet very elegant tannins. At once assertive and silky, with juicy red and blue fruit gliding through the palate while being pleasantly pulled back by an energetic, iodine verve. Subtle, hovering, brooding notes of tobacco, mocha and wet forest floor. 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha and 10% Graciano and Mazuelo, bottled in January 2022 having matured in 225-litre American oak barrels for six years.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThe 2012 “Viña Tondonia” Reserva from López de Heredia has just been released. The wine is crafted this year from the same cépages as was the case with the lovely 2011 version, which I reported on in the last issue: seventy percent tempranillo, twenty percent garnacha and ten percent from a mix of mazuelo and graciano. The wine spent six years in older American oak barrels of two hundred-twenty-five liter capacity prior to bottling. The wine is nicely classic in its octane in this vintage, coming in at an even thirteen percent and offering up a complex bouquet of red and black raspberries, spiced meats, cigar wrapper, salty soil tones, clove-like Rioja spices, woodsmoke and a bit of spicy oak. On the palate the wine is vibrant, full-bodied, focused and still quite youthful at twelve years of age, with a lovely core of fruit, excellent soil signature and grip, ripe, well-integrated tannins and a long, well balanced and complex finish. This is certainly approachable, but my inclination would be to bury it away in the cellar for another five to ten years, let its tannins properly fall away and really enjoy the fireworks! (Drink between 2024 - 2075)John Gilman | 93+ JG

There’s extraordinary energy in this wine. It displays a dark nose of black cherries, bramble fruit, violets, forest, licorice, bark, carob and leather. Density and tension dominate the full-bodied palate, with firm, velvety tannins. It’s slightly austere in the finish at the moment, yet it’s crunchy and full of potential. Try from 2026.James Suckling | 96 JSTignanello is one of Tuscany’s most iconic wines and the 2022 doesn’t disappoint, starting with its captivating aromas of fragrant purple flower, cake spice, camphor and ripe plum. A blend of mainly Sangiovese with small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, the smooth, utterly delicious and elegantly structured palate delivers succulent black cherry, cassis, vanilla, mocha and graphite alongside well-integrated, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity lifts the rich flavors. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KODelightfully approachable on the nose right away, with warm mocha notes and cool graphite aromas against bing and black cherries, and a palate that’s equally outrageously delicious and easy to love even in its unbridled youth, with more cherries, blackberries, raspberries and chocolate inside a framework of tannins made to measure and acid built like an invisible force field.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEThe 2022 Tignanello is all class and refinement. Crushed flowers, mint, white pepper, blood orange and cinnamon all grace a Tignanello defined by a decidedly sophisticated personality. The 2022 has started to flesh out nicely, especially in the mid-palate, but it remains very much on the understated side of things relative to most vintages.Vinous Media | 95 VMThe rich texture wraps around plum, cherry, graphite, tobacco and earth flavors, with a line of dusty tannins underneath. Fresh, elegant and long, ending with a pleasant astringency. Give this a year or two to integrate. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2027 through 2040. 12,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS