Red Wines

wines

Very elegant, the 2009 represents the soul of Tignanello, revealing red fruit and savory notes. Remains focused, harmonious and long.—Non-blind Tignanello vertical (October 2019). Drink now through 2030. 10,000 cases imported. — BSWine Spectator | 93 WSDried fruits and flowers on the nose. More roses than anything else. Full body, with light toffee, coffee and ginseng character. Light prunes too. Really enjoyable. A blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Give it a year or two to soften.James Suckling | 93 JS(80% sangiovese, 15% cabernet sauvignon and 5% cabernet franc): Bright red-ruby. Ripe aromas of sweet red cherries macerated in alcohol, cedar, cinnamon and pepper. Suave and seamless, with soft, almost-overripe flavors of redcurrant jam, red plum syrup, stewed red plum and tobacco leaf. A very distinctive and much creamier than usual Tignanello, finishing with supple tannins and excellent length. Obviously the product of a warmer year, and though this outstanding Tignanello is a touch less refined than some recent standout vintages, it’s hard to argue with its sweet, soft style and early drinking appeal. No need to cellar this too long.Vinous Media | 92 VM(Antinori, Tignanello, Toscana, Tuscany, Italy, Red) Still very deep in colour, this has a super-ripe cherry nose with no jamminess and some cedar tones. The fruit is seductive, with plum and cedar notes, ample acidity and tension, and a long, chocolatey finish. It may not have the flair of the 2010, but it’s approachable while not lacking in structure. (Drink between 2019-2030)Decanter | 92 DE

The 2010 Volnay Champans 1er Cru is an exquisite wine that in my opinion surpasses the Taillepieds served alongside. It is just beginning to show a little bricking on the rim. The bouquet is fresh and vibrant with raspberry, potpourri and loamy scents - just so vivid and bright. The palate is medium-bodied with plenty of red berry fruit, slightly tart in style with superb tension and fine acidity. Cranberry and raspberry spring through towards the finish that displays impressive tension. This is maturing beautifully. Tasted an the annual Marquis d’Angerville tasting in London.Vinous Media | 95 VMThe 2010 Volnay Champans wafts from the glass with an ethereal, nearly weightless personality that is hard to describe. There is plenty of length and sensuality, but in a suspended state that seems to hover above the palate. The Champans is delicate, feminine and flat-out beautiful. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96 RPLovely, scented ripe strawberry and raspberry nose. Spicy richness on the palate, delicious intensity, ripe and chewy with new oak blended in. Complex and seductive, with fine, structured tannins, excellent length and a mineral finish. For the long term.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECInitially there is a touch of reduction though aggressive swirling liberates the admirably pure, fresh and elegant nose of a plenitude of floral notes along with a ripe mix of red berries and iron, stone and earth hints. There is good power and excellent complexity to the wonderfully well-delineated medium weight flavors that possess fine phenolic ripeness and superb energy on the focused, linear and stunningly long and saline-infused finish. This is a seriously impressive effort that is built to age.Burghound | 94 BHThe malo for the Champans had finished up six weeks before my visit and the wine was showing very well indeed. The bouquet is deep, complex and very sappy, as it jumps from the glass in a beautiful mélange of pomegranate, cherries, blood orange, coffee, peonies, lovely soil tones, fresh herbs and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very elegant (particularly for a young Champans), with very good focus and balance, refined tannins and excellent length and grip on the tangy and nuanced finish. Good juice. (Drink between 2020-2060)John Gilman | 93 JGA combination of cherry and berry fruit with sweet spice notes highlights this elegant, linear red. Balanced and sleek, offering a lingering aftertaste of fruit, spice and savory mineral accents. Best from 2016 through 2032. 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Brovia is one of the brightest stars of Castiglione Falletto, the comune at the heart of the appellation that benefits from a complicated mix of soil types from different geological periods that intersect in and around this village. The 2015 Barolo is wine of character and brawn with dark fruit aromas followed by savory tobacco, spice and a very distinctive note of rusty nail or ferrous earth. The bouquet is large in scale, reflecting the intensity and expansive personality of this warm vintage. The tannins are elegantly integrated, and the wine leaves a lasting and beautiful impact on the palate.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RP

The 2021 Barolo La Serra is contemplative and layered on the nose with aromas of redcurrants, porcini, fresh leather, anise, and floral incense. The palate is focused and pure, with its bright red fruits shining with refreshing acidity, fine, coiled tannins, and a long, graceful finish. It’s a lovely wine with a wide window for enjoyment over the coming 15-20 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThe 2015 Barolo La Serra is wonderfully silky, aromatic and refined, with all of the lift that is such a signature of this high-altitude La Morra site. Flowers, sweet red cherry, spice, tobacco and cedar are wonderfully delineated. Even more importantly, the aggressive tannins that once often penalized this wine are pretty much absent, a change Marcarini ascribes to gentler handling of the fruit during the initial part of fermentation. This is very nicely done.Vinous Media | 93 VMSpicy, earthy and very ripe with gorgeous aromas and intensity. Full-bodied, tight and very focused with a great finish and length. Shows compact and polished tannins. Goes on for minutes. Drink from 2023.James Suckling | 93 JSRed berry, pressed rose, camphor and wild herb aromas shape the nose. Elegantly structured, the taut, lithe palate offers cranberry, sour cherry and star anise alongside a note of mint. Polished tannins and bright acidity keep it fresh and balanced. Drink 2021–2030.Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KORed berry, pressed rose, camphor and wild herb aromas shape the nose. Elegantly structured, the taut, lithe palate offers cranberry, sour cherry and star anise alongside a note of mint. Polished tannins and bright acidity keep it fresh and balanced. Drink 2021–2030.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

The 2017 la Dominode is the most structured young Savigny premier cru in the cellars, but its potential is enormous. The youthful nose was still in the process of absorbing its serving of new oak, but will do so seamlessly with a bit more age, and offers up a fine blend of black plums, red and black cherries, pigeon, dark soil tones, raw cocoa, a bit of bonfire, cedar and an exotic topnote of licorice. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nicely reserved out of the blocks, with an excellent core of fruit, fine-grained tannins and a long, soil-driven and complex finish. This is serious juice. (Drink between 2026-2065)John Gilman | 94+ JGHere too a generous dollop of wood frames the very spicy aromas of plum liqueur, dark raspberry and subtle humus and underbrush scents. The sleek and impressively intense medium weight flavors brim with minerality while offering the best complexity and persistence in the range on the balanced, firm and serious finish. This too should amply reward mid to even longer-term cellaring potential.Burghound | 92 BHThe 2017 Savigny-lès-Beaune La Dominode 1er Cru has another promising bouquet of pure blackberry, bilberry, crushed stone and light loamy scents that gain intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannin, offering plenty of crunchy black fruit. Slightly tarry toward the finish but perhaps offers the most persistency amongst Pavelot’s impressive range. Cellar this for three years if you can.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The 2019 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru has an exquisite bouquet of beautifully defined citrus fruit, apple blossom and light flinty notes; a bit of peach skin emerges with aeration. The harmonious palate is very well balanced, delivering admirable depth, well-judged acidity, and flavors of white peach and a touch of quince toward the linear finish. Classy.Vinous Media | 93 VMA more elegant and slightly riper nose also offers plenty of classic Chablis character on the markedly floral-suffused white orchard fruit scents. The more voluminous though a bit less mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors culminate in an energetic, delicious and lingering if slightly awkward finale. This may well come together, and it does have a very good track record, but I prefer not to guess.Burghound | 90-92 BH

The Piero Benevelli 2019 Barolo Ravera di Monforte has just a little more ripeness compared to the Le Coste di Monforte, and this wine is more open-knit and ready to drink as a result. You get the same combination of dried fruit tones and redcurrants that come with a healthy dose of rusty mineral and iron-like sensations. This is a 4,000-bottle release.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2019 Barolo Ravera di Monforte is a powerful, searing wine. Red cherry fruit, leather, cedar, mint, iron, white pepper and dried flowers build in a mid-weight, tannic Barolo that is going to need time to be at its best. There is good tension and energy, but my impression is that the 2019 is recovering from its bottling, as it is very tight and sinewy in feel today.Vinous Media | 92+ VM

A wine from a selection of sites over 3.9ha in Butteaux, Forêts and Montmains. Butteaux is very cold and mineral, while Forêts is elegant and floral. Great precision and focus here, allied with crystalline citrus fruits on the palate. Shows density, but is also very fresh, with lovely mineral characters on the finish. A highly successful Montmains.Decanter | 93 DECConsisting of roughly equal parts Montmains, Butteaux and Forêts (the three sous-climats of Montmains), the 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains offers up aromas of crisp green apple, white flowers, bee pollen and oyster shell. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and concentrated, it’s taut and precise, concluding with a saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP(Chablis “Montmains”- Domaine William Fèvre) The 2020 Montmains here is also lovely, with perhaps just a bit more definition and complexity than in the Beauroy. The nose is pure and bright, offering up scents of apple, tart orange, wet stone minerality, citrus peel, dried flowers and a nice shading of oyster shell. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and racy in personality, with fine focus and grip, a lovely core and a long, minerally and beautifully balanced finish. A lovely example. (Drink between 2026 - 2055)John Gilman | 92+ JG(Chablis Montmains 1er Cru, Domaine William Fèvre, White) From all three sections of the vineyard as usual. Racy lemon colour. Pure crystalline nose, very little reduction, very classical left bank Chablis, very intense but neither heavy nor exotic. The kimmeridgian is speaking underneath a graceful layer of flesh. Fruit and stones both keep coming back at the finish.Jasper Morris | 92-95Here too the nose is elegant, pure and layered but with more floral and spice nuances adding breadth to the cooler and more restrained aromas. There is both excellent intensity and density to the mineral-driven flavors that terminate in a bone-dry, sneaky long and balanced finale. This too is really very good.Burghound | 91-93 BHThe 2020 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru comes from 3.8 hectares of vines over 12 parcels and offers pressed white flower scents and a touch of crushed rock. The well-defined palate features red apple mixed with subtle spicy notes that dovetail into a generous, leesy finish. Fine.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

The 2020 Chablis Blanchot Grand Cru is far more successful than the Les Clos. It has much more energy and vitality on the nose for a start with fresh green apples, crushed stone, flecks of blood orange and struck flint. Over the course of an hour, you can see it just gain more intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with sharpened acidity, quite vibrant and tensile with oyster shell and light spicy notes percolating through on the finish. This is definitely worth seeking out.Vinous Media | 93 VMMore moderate though hardly invisible oak is present on the cooler and more elegant aromas of white flower, spice and mineral reduction. There is a much more refined, if less powerful, mouthfeel to the punchy and almost delicate flavors that culminate in a citrus, sneaky long and bone-dry finale that is youthfully austere. This also appears to have a much better chance at absorbing its wood.Burghound | 91-94 BH

Aromas of dried lemons, grapefruit, beeswax, seaweed and pears. Excellent focus, with a compact, driven and mineral palate. Biscuity touches, evolving to hints of pie crust, too, on a long finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSLike the Preuses, the wood treatment is agreeably subtle and easily allows the restrained aromas of citrus rind, oyster shell and quinine to be appreciated. The refined, pure and borderline painfully intense larger-scaled flavors exude ample minerality on the saliva-inducing, chiseled and impressively lengthy finish. Promising.Burghound | 92-94 BH

Racy and focused. I like the aromas of lavender, violet and white roses alongside strawberry, cranberry and stone. Medium body, with firm and fine tannins that are long and succulent. It’s fine and polished. Vegan. Needs three to four years to come together.James Suckling | 94 JSAlways a popular choice, the Vietti 2020 Barolo Castiglione (made with a blend of fruit from multiple MGA sites) has a voluptuous approach with dark fruit, cola, wild berry coulis and smoky tar. The wine wears a hot vintage well, with accessible and powdery tannins for near or medium-term drinking. In terms of texture, the Castiglione has a little more brawn and body compared to your standard Barolo. This is an ample release of 70,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPFragrant, polished and vibrant right out of the gate, the 2020 Barolo Castiglione displays beautifully-lifted notes of crushed red berry fruit, rose petal, mint, white pepper and orange peel. This classically built, mid-weight Barolo is classy to the core. Like all the 2020s here, it will benefit from time in bottle or a good decantVinous Media | 93 VMFloral, fruity, and appealing, the 2020 Barolo Castiglione is the calling card of the estate for the entry to the Barolo range. Emblematic of the vintage, it’s appealing upfront, with aromas of cherry candies, crushed flowers, apricots, and dusty earth. On the palate, it offers sweet tannins, fresh acidity, and a clean finish, with nothing heavy. It is a lovely and easy-drinking wine already, but it doesn’t lack Nebbiolo character. This will be a wine to snap up on restaurant lists for its value and approachability. Drink 2024-2034. 50,000 bottles.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDA lean, tightly wound red, with cranberry, sour cherry, licorice, eucalyptus and earth flavors. Fresh and stitched with burly tannins, this leaves a juicy, savory finish. Best from 2027 through 2040. 10,330 cases made, 1,800 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

The 2021 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a brooding blend of crushed black cherries, ash, mentholated herbs and autumnal spice. Soft textures are quickly offset by a saturation of tart red and black fruits while firming tannins add further tension toward the close. It’s long and structured with a liquid-stone minerality and a bitter tinge of clove.Vinous Media | 94 VMAged for six months in Slavonian casks, the lovely 2021 Rosso from Tricerchi opens with aromas of dog rose, strawberry jam and oak-driven spice. On the polished, savory palate, lithe tannins and fresh acidity accompany ripe Morello cherry, raspberry compote and licorice. Drink through 2026. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 92 KO

Hailing from the Sant’Angelo in Colle area, this impeccable and solid-quality label is characterized by its great balance. Olfaction with red raspberry and bay leaf, puffs of cinchona and zest of dogwood orange. On the palate, savouriness and tension, with spicy memory.Luca Gardini | 97+ LGA touch of hazelnut chocolate to the ripe plums and cherries, with hints of minerals and dried grapefruit. Structured and bright, with almost full body and a succulent, vertical finish. A lot going on at the end. From organically grown grapes. Drink from 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSThe Col d’Orcia 2021 Brunello is a fragrant, full-bodied red that opens with heady scents of violet, new leather, forest floor and ripe wild berry. As the estate lost 40% of its grapes due to frost, they made no single vineyard offerings in 2021 so the best grapes, including those from its lauded Poggio al Vento site went into the classic Brunello and it shows, thanks to its structure, finesse and energy that accompany flavors of wild raspberry, red cherry, blood orange and star anise. Taut, polished tannins offer seamless support while fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2029–2041. Abv: 14.5%Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is youthfully delicate, with nuances of dusty dried cherry, rose petals and licorice. The palate displays round textures and cooling acidity, with ripe red and black fruits beneath an air of inner florals. The long, energetic finish leaves fine-grained tannins and a pleasant chewy concentration.Vinous Media | 93 VM

With 2.15ha, a blend from three plots in Chapelot, Montée de Tonnerre and Pied d’Aloup, with vines in the latter now 87 years old. As expected of Montée de Tonnerre, this will need a lot of time to come round. Powerful, primary and concentrated, with restrained mineral, stony notes. Great purity here, salty finish.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECLike the Vaillons, this is also quite firmly reduced though there is some wood influence present as well. The focused and beautifully refined flavors ooze minerality on the almost painfully intense, bone-dry and strikingly long but not especially austere finale. This is very stylish as well as classy. Well worth checking out.Burghound | 93 BHChapelot, Pied d’Aloue, Cote de Bréchain. Mostly tank. Very pretty lemon and lime colour. A clean, incisive bouquet, very pure and with class. Tension at the back, extremely youthful but definitely promising. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Jun 2022.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM

Savory herbs mix with brined olives, flowery underbrush and dried blueberries as the sultry 2021 Brunello di Montalcino comes to life in the glass. Silken textures and mineral-inflected red berry fruits envelop the palate as edgy tannins pinch at the cheeks. The wine tapers off long and structured, leaving a lingering tension and saturation of tart blackberry to fade slowly.Vinous Media | 93 VMCinnamon, red berries, orange rind and smoke. Medium-bodied, with chalky, chewy tannins that reveal a sense of delicate fruit toward the finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 92 JS

Extremely perfumed, with aromas of black cherries, white roses, cedar and sandalwood that follow through to a medium body with gorgeous subtle fruit, fine tannins and a fresh and succulent finish. From organically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but better in a couple of years.James Suckling | 96 JSDisplaying a medium red/garnet hue, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino has a fantastic nose, with ripe cherries, worn leather, wildflowers, balsamic, and a subtle rustic edge. The palate is medium-bodied and both inviting and structured, with outstanding clarity and length, ripe tannins, refreshing acidity, and a great finish. It’s exceptionally balanced and harmonious and should have no trouble drinking beautifully over the next 15-20 years. Drink 2026-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe 2021 Brunello from San Polino opens with aromas of lavender, Mediterranean scrub, eucalyptus and forest berry. Made with organically farmed grapes, the full-bodied, savory palate features ripe Morello cherry, wild raspberry, blood orange and star anise set against firm, refined tannins. Fresh acidity provides balance. Drink 2031–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOWith vineyards in two different zones, San Polino keeps them separate, highlighting the diversity of Montalcino. From plots on the region’s cooler northern slope, this takes some coaxing to tease out exotic spice, walnut and orange zest. A juicy mix of sour red and dark black cherry fills out the palate. Clayey tannins are well formed and persistent. A deftly balanced expression of the ample fruit and ripe sturdy structure in 2021.Decanter Magazine | 93 DEC

Prestigious cru, accompanied by a protocol aimed at preserving the tension of the raw material, with incisive juiciness. Black pepper in grains and red plum, then wild fennel, with minty and gardenia puffs. Rightly tannic, officinal and persistent sip.Luca Gardini | 100 LGThe 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino Pelagrilli pours a brighter shade than the 2020 and shows a more vertical, tension-driven profile. The nose reveals red cherries, salted orange, leather, cedar, dried flowers, and that classic touch of incense that feels so Pacenti. Medium to full-bodied, it has ripe tannins, brisk acidity, and a long, mouthwatering finish, and it’s hard not to keep coming back to it. Drink 2026-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDGorgeous aromas of blackberries, black cherries, cedar, bark and spices follow through to a medium body with fine, integrated tannins and a succulent finish. Shows drive and intensity at the end. Give this three to four years in the bottle, but it’s already beautiful. Drink after 2028.James Suckling | 97 JSBalsamic black cherries blend with nuances of mocha, brown spice and minty herbs as the 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Pelagrilli dominates the glass. It has the weight of velvet yet remains lifted and serene, with crisp red and black fruits that slowly penetrate, complemented by a twang of citrus. A bitter dark chocolate tinge adds tension through the close, further enhanced by edgy tannins, yet the 2021 leaves the mouth watering for more. Beautifully done.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe Siro Pacenti 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Pelagrilli shows concentration with dark fruit flavors framed by powdery tannins that extend through a medium- to full-bodied finish. Following fermentation in stainless steel, the wine matures in French barrique, a choice that adds structure and polish to this bold expression. Sourced from 10 hectares of moisture-retaining clay soils in the northern part of the appellation at 330 meters above sea level, the wine delivers notable power and warmth, closing with an evident 15.5% alcohol. This is a release of 24,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The 2022 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru has a very impressive bouquet with wonderful marine-inflected malic scents, quite strict and focused, leaning more to traditional old school Chablis. The palate is very well balanced with a sapid entry, linear and strict with a twist of sour lemon on the finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 93 VMCool and restrained, not showing a lot at the moment, but has a fine balance between fruit ripeness and a fine thread of acidity. Precise, this will need time. Samuel Billaud has one plot in Chapelot and one in Montée de Tonnerre.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECFresh mid lemon. Very classy on the nose, with the extra fruit-driven intensity. A brilliant core with the extra fruit from this sunny site making it more accessible. A tropical take on grapefruit promotes a lovely aftertaste Drink from 2027-2036. Tasted Jun 2024.Jasper Morris | 93 JMAn elegant, pure and beautifully airy nose presents ripe but wonderfully fresh aromas of mineral reduction, acacia blossom and oyster shell trimmed in enough wood to merit mentioning. The racy and borderline painfully intense middleweight flavors exude a bracing minerality that adds a sense of lift to the detailed, focused and lingering finale that is neither especially dry nor austere. Other than a trace of backend warmth, this is a classic MdT though one that could use better depth, so a few years of patience will be necessary.Burghound | 92 BH

Fresh bright purple. What a radiant nose, all the heady joy of Vosne, such stylish bright ripe cherry fruit with some mixed red berries behind. Seamless texture and very long. Sheer class. Tasted Dec 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMContaining 20% whole bunches, the 2022 Vosne-Romanée Village has a tightly wound and "correct" bouquet. It lets the Morey-Saint-Denis Village take the limelight at the moment, red and black fruit combined, a little more sous-bois than expected. The palate is medium-bodied with a core of lively, peppery red berry fruit, blood orange and a pinch of white pepper on the finish. A step up from the 2021, this will give a decade’s drinking pleasure.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMAn overtly spicy nose is comprised by darker fruit that includes plum and black cherry along with violet and sandalwood hints. There is a really lovely texture to the caressing but punchy middleweight flavors that deliver equally good length on the youthfully austere and even more refined finale. This too is exceptionally good for its level.Burghound | 89-92 BH

The 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers 1er Cru has more intensity and tension than the Chenevottes, greater mineralité coming through with aeration. The palate is taut and sapid, with satisfying mid-palate weight and a grippy finish boding well for bottle maturation. One to watch.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The 2022 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers is unusually supple and suave for this site, offering up aromas of dark berries, orange zest, peonies, vine smoke and grilled squab, followed by a medium to full-bodied, supple and velvety palate with lively acids, sweet tannins and a saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-93 RPThis is aromatically similar to the Perrières with perhaps just a touch more sauvage character in evidence. The powerful if slightly less concentrated flavors pack first-rate punch on the moderately austere, vibrant and compact finale that is also built to repay longer-term cellaring, indeed 20 years would not be a surprise.Burghound | 92-94 BHDense youthful purple, with an exceptionally youthful bouquet in concentrated fresh raspberry mode, vivid but plentiful tannins and good acidity excellent tension - this one always needs time says Bertrand. Drink from 2031-2039. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JMThe 2022 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Pruliers 1er Cru offers a mixture of red and black fruit on the nose, with background touches of wild mint and menthol, quite ripe and opulent. The palate is medium-bodied with a succulent opening. Again, overtly fruit-driven with a sorbet-fresh finish. Maybe it needs a little more finesse and Pinoté to develop in barrel? Give it three or four years.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

Bottled in late July. Pale lemon colour. A pure and fresh bouquet, mostly white fruit. Particularly stony this year behind a raft of white apple fruit, plenty of energy, starting to soften at the back. Middleweight plus, quite attractive. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 92 JM

This exotic wine boasts aromas of passion fruit, pomelo and ripe yellow plums, touched with oyster shell and a hint of smoky reduction. There is rewarding richness here, but there is also plenty of fresh acidity and energy on the palate. The grapes are from the white marl soils of the well-protected, south-facing slopes in the village of Fleys, not far from the Mont de Milieu; it is one of the warmest premier cru sites on the right bank of the Serein. Open this wine in five years and drink it over the next 20.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECExotic floral notes, passion fruit, nashi pear and gooseberry introduce the bottled 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Les Fourneaux, a medium- to full-bodied wine that is elegantly fleshy yet taut and vibrant, concluding with a persistent, grapefruit-inflected finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2023 Chablis Les Fourneaux 1er Cru has an airy, crushed stone- and flint-tinged bouquet that seems to have veered toward a more classical and sapid style since bottling. The palate is bright, well balanced and taut, with lime on the entry and a dash of white pepper toward the finish. Give this 18 to 24 months in bottle to show what it is capable of.Vinous Media | 92 VMA little lemon touch to the nose. Retains a cool clarity, then riper lemon scented fruit on the palate and a nicely balanced finish. Attractive stony rather than saline notes to finish. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Jun 2025.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

The recently bottled 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is another success for Samuel Billaud, unfurling aromas of nashi pear, iodine, gooseberry and grapefruit. Full-bodied, ample and satiny, it offers a layered mid-palate framed by tangy acids and concludes with a long, saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93+ RPThe 2023 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru has a vivacious bouquet that’s more complex than the Montmains. It’s delineated and focused with wonderful mineralité, scents of lime flower, citrus peel and orange blossom. The palate is very well balanced with a quicksilver line of acidity, fine depth and a harmonious, saline finish. The 2023 is beautiful.Vinous Media | 93 VMThis lively, fresh expression of Montée de Tonnerre features aromas of gooseberry and cream with a suggestion of oyster shell; a salty, mineral tang arrives at the end on the palate. The texture is silky and very fine. The grapes are from several parcels totaling 2.15ha in the lieux-dits of Pied d’Aloup and Côte de Bréchain. In 2023, they were gently pressed and fermented exclusively in tank to preserve the freshness of the fruit.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECJust bottled. A clear lightly lemony nose. A sense of considerable weight behind. This has a grander structure than the Mont de Milieu while retaining an even more mineral central backbone. Strikingly long finish. But keep this for years! Drink from 2027-2034. Tasted Jun 2025.Jasper Morris | 93 JMAn elegant, pure and airy and more floral-suffused nose possesses more obvious Chablis character with its wet stone, shellfish, brine and iodine-suffused aromas. There is more refinement, if less volume and power, to the beautifully textured middle weight flavors that conclude in a sneaky long, balanced and altogether classy finale. Lovely stuff.Burghound | 92 BH